it (obviously) depends on how much you need to "stretch" it at the top for how much it tapers at the bottom. i've just taken to make supports on the sides too, so i can adjust it as much as i need to, e.g.:
I did know that right and wrong ways where references to the ways the rings hang and intended to do it the "wrong" way.
I have now done the first 3 rows the right way, and it would be a lot easier to count the rings that way, but am still wondering about how much it will taper in towards the bottom if I keep doing it that way.
Once I complete the inlay,I hope to hang it from a dowel and make lengths of Byzantine chain for each family member (wife and 2 kids), showing how many Spartan races and their distances we do each year to hang from the bottom. The races have 5km+ (red) 10km+ (blue) and 21km+ (green) and orange for kid races. Complete the 3 distances in one year you earn a trifecta. They also have a few other style of races, but I am not ready for those yet.
I hope it will be a neat piece to hang from the wall and track our race history over the years. Especially as our kids get old enough to race the adult courses with us.
You're going to be able to see somewhat through any aspect ratio that allows for flexibility, but you can minimize that. I like working with 16 gauge, 1/4" rings because I feel it's a good balance between the two.
I am about to start remaking a chain mail shirt for myself, the problem with my last one was that there was large spaces in between the rings that a shirt can EASILY be seen through it. I was wondering if there is a better ring size for a chain mail shirt that i am using the European 4-in-1 weave with that won't show the shirt I am wearing underneath.
The last ring size I had was a 12G 1/2" and I have heard about different sizes ranging from 14G to 16G.