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  1. Yesterday
  2. Yeah, 3/8 12g will be a tighter weave than 7/16 12g. The term is "Aspect Ratio" or AR. It's the ratio between the ring diameter and the wire diameter, and it tells you how tight or loose a particular weave will appear, regardless of ring size. On the TRL shopping site, you'll see the AR value listed with the other ring specs. The rings in your source image look to have an AR somewhere between 4 and 5. If the lowermost belt is 1.25" to 1.5" wide, then the rings are about 3/8" to 7/16", and an AR of 4-5 puts you in the 14g - 12g range. This is just guessing based on personal experience. I'd recommend ordering a couple different sizes first and make a few test patches before putting in a large bulk order. If you want to skip that step, I'd vote for 12g 7/16". How much coverage are you looking for? Are you going to overlap the maille in the front like the picture implies, or skip rings that would be covered? Are you continuing the rings up underneath the leather harness up top? Skipping the hidden rings will shave a few thousand off the count. Getting the maille to hang like that is going to be a challenge. You'll need a trapezoidal panel to get the 12"-14" overlap up top and the 6"-8" gap at the bottom, and you're going to need to hide in a bunch of expansion to match the artists lines (the artist cheated :-) ). Also, if you use steel, the weight is going to make the skirt portion hug your legs. Aluminum or plastic rings have a better chance of flaring out with the jupon. How are you making the jupon?
  3. Last week
  4. Yes, annealing is what is meant by normalizing. You hold the steel maybe 50C above critical temp for long enough for the grain structure to refine. How long and at what temp depends upon the type and thickness of the metal. For something like 16 guage rings I wouldn't imagine that would be very long.
  5. I'm still thinking about whether I want to use stainless or carbon steel. I found a local company that does heat-treating, and I am going to ask them for a quote. If it's not too terribly expensive, I'd like to go that route, at least for my first piece, so I can learn how to do it properly. I am also sure I can find a kiln I could use in the area, so that would be plan B. To be on the safe side, I may want to normalize the steel, as Rob mentioned. What would be the process for that? Would it be the same as hardening, but without quenching? Annealing, essentially? Also, I am assuming that the piece will need to be supported on some kind of ceramic plate while it is removed and quenched so it doesn't deform under its own weight while the steel is hot and soft. losthelm, thanks for the app recommendation. It looks like it is missing 1062, although it has a lot of information about 1060, which I assume is almost identical. It has a tiny blurb about 1064 as well. Thank you once again for all the advice.
  6. You can find a little research on heat treating that paticular alloy by downloading the heat treaters companion appl. There is a decent chance someone in your area has a glass kiln for lampwork beads, fuseing, or slumping that maybe willing to help. The kilns have a digital readout/controler and most are fairly easy to open the top, pull out the piece and dunk it in a bucket of vegtable oil. Rhough you may have issues with some rings deforming under its own weight.
  7. Yes, 3/8" (call it 9mm) would mean a tighter weave. 7/16" is a hair over 11mm.
  8. Good evening leather and metal workers. I'm hoping to get some much needed and lost information. I lost my vender information for my leather glue. It goes like this....non-toxic, waterbased, latex contact cement. Comes in a 5 gal bucket and goes for around $125 or so. Would anyone have any information to its call name and or manufacturer? Any help would be greatly appreciated
  9. Would you like me to count the columns and rows by 4-1 units like illustrated below? Edit: If so, it is 27 rows by 119 columns. When completed I will measure it's length and width by imperial and metric units.
  10. Sorry for the long wait on the reply. @Konstantin the Red Your Knowledge is greatly appreciated, and your input on making this actual functional armor was very intresting. Alas the actual goal of making this is to create a replication of the in game armor. I am not planning to run in to combat at a fair, Haha. Also just as further bit of info on this character, I think if you are a historical/fantasy person you may enjoy the book series this is based off called The Witcher by Andrzej Sapkowski. it follows Geralt of Rivia, a Witcher, a mutated supernautral monster hunter in a world of magic, beasts and politics. Its stupidly popular though Poland and Eastern Europe. @Eric So you think the 12g would be the way to go, On the topic of sizing, 3/8 or 7/16. I cant really judge that well but 3/8 would be a much "tighter weave" with less gap between rings and 7/16th would have a wider gap? the amount of rings roughly 10,000 like @kittensoft_chainmail suggested (sorry it wont link your name).
  11. Company wise, there are places that will do heat treating for mostly large projects (pretty much every tool anyone uses has been heat treated), but you can often ask them to do a tiny batch (one item). I would also look into finding someone with a kiln, as those will reach the proper temperatures easily (and is actually the recommended method for heat treating). I always love to hear someones interested in learning the craft! If you ever decide one day that you want to pick up the hammer, I would do a quick local search for blacksmiths in your area as there are a lot of classes people are willing to offer to give you a taste of blacksmithing without committing time and money for a forge.
  12. Thank you very much, Jeremy and Rob. That helps a lot. I'm not looking to get a forge capable of reaching those temperatures for this project (I'd like to someday). But I am interested in your suggestion to find a company that could do this. Forgive my ignorance: what kind of company should I look for? I mean, does it have to be a blacksmith? Do welders have this kind of equipment? I may stick with the spring temper stainless steel for this project after all. But I am really interested in learning blacksmithing someday, so this is great information. Thank you again.
  13. My best guess was that it shouldn't matter with the thickness of the rings, and that the warp will be negligible. It is however a good point, thank you!
  14. Curious: Should not the welded armour be normalized first so that you're dealing with as uniform a structure as possible, prior to tempering? Or is that superfluous, given that you're water quenching everything up to that same weld level of brittleness?
  15. Skip this if you only want to hear about the heat treat So, the ring lord says that their carbon steel rings are 1062 carbon steel (mostly iron with .62% +- 0.05% carbon). Most 10xx series steels below 1095 have a fairly simple heat treat, but first take a moment to experiment a bit. When you heat up steel you get colors depending on how hot the steel was due to oxidation types. these are a reasonable way to judge how hot your steel got. If only the area directly around the weld is blue/washed out light gray I would consider it fine as it should retain much of its integrity. The higher temperature the steel gets, the more flexible, and soft the steel gets. However with temperatures in welding you run into a problem called "grain growth" which is farther into the science of steel than i'm gonna get, but makes the steel brittle. For knives/swords many other people (and I) use a 400 degree (F) temper, but this is fairly brittle for armor. TLR website does not state what temperature they temper to and only give us a KSI rating. You may not get the majority of the steel hotter than TLR tempers, but thats a lot of "if". However, as a steel geek I digress, back to the heat treat. Actual heat treatment info For heat treating 1062 you are going to need two important things. A home heat treating setup, or the phone number of a company or person who does. I would recommend doing some research into local companies that might be able to heat treat for you, but if you are like me and unwilling to pay someone else to do it you can make a heat treat setup yourself. For heat treating 1062 you will need to get the whole piece up to around 1475 degrees (F) and hold it at that temperature for ~5 minutes at minimum. You can hold it at that temperature for up to ~15 minutes, but thats more up to what you feel like doing that day. Once it has gotten to that point you will remove it from the heat and quench in it in lukewarm water until it has stopped boiling the water. After this it will be glass hard and can shatter if you drop it on the ground. I would then put it in the oven at 600 degrees (F) for an hour, then let it cool. That should give you armor hardness, but flexible enough not to shatter if dropped Obligatory warnings! With anything involving lots of fire, this is dangerous. This is very dangerous. I have been heat treating things for multiple years, but still burn myself every once in a while. you also do not want to be known as that one dude who burned down their block trying to make a cool chainmaille project. Almost any heat treat will be risky. Even with a fairly simple steel, and a fairly thick piece (rings), and a disregard for how perfectly straight your piece has to be coming out of quench, there is still a chance it will go wrong. There is a chance some of the rings might crack, or shatter, or warp so badly that you have to remove them and put a new ring in. There is also the chance that nothing will happen. Any number of things can make it so that your piece will not harden at all. A way to check would be take a metal file and scrape it along the rings after quench. If the file skates as if it were on glass, then the steel is hard and super brittle until you temper it in the oven. There is a chance that you will decarburize the outer layer of the rings and then end up with a thousandth of an inch around every ring that is soft. This means you will have a scratch prone exterior that will eventually wear away leaving hard steel below it (you can remove this yourself though various methods like putting it in a barrel of sand a shaking it a ton) There is also a reasonable chance I might be wrong about parts of this. I have never heat treated chainmaille before. I heat treat the things that chainmaille is supposed to stop. I might be off about the temper temperature which is thankfully a fixable mistake, but do not take what I have said in totality I am just one of the simple voices of the internet (albeit one specialized in this). Do your own research too!
  16. Unable to post a new thread in the stock topic. Is there a reason for that? Looking to see when small red spikes will be available. Making green scale mail shoulder piece for Solaire of Astora cosplay. Saw the spiked star kits and wanted to make a red a gold star with all red spikes for the sun icon for a low hanging necklace or belt buckle oriented piece. Praise the Sun! ^-^
  17. Looks also like this fine mail would block keyless entry into your latemodel car, which gadgets work in the microwave spectrum (100cm to 1mm, spanning VHF through UHF). Definitely have your fob outside such mesh. Otherwise, a weak UHF signal is trapped in there with you and won't talk to your new car.
  18. Color me surprised. Now, come again? -- I'm not getting why you're trying to exclude upper-EHF millimeter-wave frequencies from... your personal space. These have been radiated by antennas since WW2... I don't suppose you've been around that long. Are you being swept by (short-range) air-search radar all day? Living on an antenna mount? Has there been a strong enough flux to melt your candy bar in your pocket? The inverse-square law says you need but move farther away from any radiating source to cut exposure wayyyy down -- that there's no way a radiating antenna can buck the inverse-square law and come out on top. TSA would talk about you nasty if you wore such micromaille longjohns through their metal detectors, which work in the millimeter-frequency frequency band -- and the signal attenuates greatly in air and even more at some frequencies in water vapor. And rain, and drizzle. I'd say commercial passenger flight would be a definite no-go without a change of clothes. Dragging a grounding strap behind you from one foot (to get past your shoes) as you go would cause comment too, of the "sir, you have a wire sticking out of you" genre.
  19. Earlier
  20. Hello, I recently bought The Ring Lord's resistance welder, and I've got it up and running pretty well. I'm planning to use it to make a fully welded hauberk, which will be my second (my first was made from TRL's galvanized steel kit, which of course can't be welded). I'm going to make it out of 16 gauge, 1/4" ID wire, which I think should make a nice, relatively dense weave. Originally I was planning to use stainless steel, but now I think that I would like to use high carbon steel (specifically TRL's "high carbon steel alloy 1062"). I realize that the hauberk will need to be cared for, but I really like the authenticity of carbon steel and would like to learn to work with it. The thing is, switching to carbon steel creates a problem which is briefly mentioned in the free booklet for the welder: On the subject of heat treating high carbon steel, the description of the rings in The Ring Lord's shop says: So, clearly heat treating is both doable and somewhat necessary for this project. My question is, how can I heat treat the hauberk after welding to make the strongest armor possible? I know enough to experiment a bit, but where should I start? I have tried to do some research on tempering carbon steel, but I couldn't find anything very specific. I especially couldn't find anything specifically for maille, which I imagine will heat and cool differently than a solid piece of steel, and could potentially deform while heated. Any tips or instructions to get me started would be appreciated, but here are some specific questions: What temperature/color do the rings need to be heated to? How long should that heat be maintained? How should they be cooled? (Quenched or air-cooled?) At the risk of sounding terribly amateurish, can I do this in a kitchen oven which goes up to 550° F? Some additional information: I've already experimented with welding both stainless and carbon steel a bit, and confirmed that the carbon steel's heat-affected zone becomes brittle. Honestly, just making the rings less brittle would be sufficient, because this armor will just be for a costume, but I want to make the armor as tough as possible, just for the satisfaction of it. Thanks! PS Attached is a picture of the welder and the rings I am considering.
  21. Hi! is there an ETA on the blade for jumpringer KXJRBLADE8. thanks! KX
  22. Yes indeed a full on faraday cage is correct and talkative definitely not on that serious mind control crap RemoteNeuralManipulation.Weebly.Com but not really here to talk about that right thank you for the responses and information (RF is a type of EMF radiation) I do believe steel rings will be the best thinking based on aluminums poor nature and pricing .8 mm diameter a full trench coat styling suit with a connectable helm would likely be the cost efficent It is in fact for RFs and ultrasounds (velour is the best answer to that) Dont know too much about CRTs but rf is in fact capable of interacting with any electronic device to affect it from remote control to remote access (such as drone hacking and desktop/laptop hacking with no sort of wifi) granting viewing capabilities on whats going on and even with the copper coating ultrasounds can still view this i believe (long range according to the long range acoustic device LRAD 2 mile beaming range with public tech though LRAD is a sound cannon ultrasounds used like a bats vision would grant this) The only building i know of that grounds out RF such as that building is a full faraday cage court house which considering the tech would be astounding to the attacked though its in a quasi-legal loop and unlikely to even be utilized unfortunately Edit: interested in diameter size as 300ghz RF will go down to 1mm in wavelength im looking at around .8 (.02") diameter is this actually available or will i need to order it custom sized and how much would you think a helm and skinsuit that connected them with a sort of easy to disconnect metal clip would cost in a pricerange (i imagine 500+ dollas)
  23. Greeting, I was wondering when you all will have more SB1212 Thanks
  24. I am modding Jodey Hathaway's dragon design to add limbs so that it can perch like Kilroy or on a shoulder. Any suggestions on a micromaille weave that is stiff and linear? (I'd prefer to avoid wire inside for purity's sake.) By linear, I mean that building a cylinder (e.g. Serpents Spine) would be proportionally too large.
  25. When will Sxss18316 be back in stock please?
  26. A kit is a good idea, because you know that you're getting a tried and true size and number of the rings for the project. In addition to this TRL has a couple of calculators designed to help you figure out how many rings you would need, based on project and ring size. You could start with a kit and then, once you have gained basic proficiency with chainmailing, use the calculator to help in future projects. http://theringlord.com/cart/shopcontent.asp?type=howmany
  27. Any ETA on Black 18 ga 5/32 Saw Cut Niobium?
  28. I would suggest getting a kit from TRL, they have a PDF that comes along with it. http://theringlord.com/cart/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=90&cat=Chainmail+Armor+Kits you will also need some nice pliers I suggest KX-ArmorPlier http://theringlord.com/cart/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=69&cat=Pliers enjoy
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