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  1. Today
  2. Ulfhednar91

    Armor grade leather??

    I am not part of the SCA, but not for lack of trying. My occupation and frequent relocation make it difficult to join and practice. I do however get to work with local renaissance festivals. I have been a Yeoman guard and a "nuisance" barbarian for a couple of them. Both were acting roles. The Yeo man taught me most of my sword skill.
  3. Jodey - TRL Tier 2 Support

    Anodized Aluminum

    It just restocked. Saw the restock notification in my inbox just now.
  4. RingMaiden

    Anodized Aluminum

    When will SXAA18532black be restocked? I asked about it earlier this month which had the reply of about a week but it is still not restocked. I'm just checking back in for a new ETA. Thanks
  5. Yesterday
  6. Jeff

    Brass rings or suitable alternative

    I have both of them but the problem is I am already using both in inlay as gold and yellow.
  7. Bladeturner

    Scale Shirt with short sleeves

    Using medium red scales with trim of copper and brushed gold. 1/4" SS butted rings.

    © David Heirtzler

  8. Jodey - TRL Tier 2 Support

    Anodized Aluminum

    There is no ETA at this time.
  9. liriel

    Brass rings or suitable alternative

    If you don't like the colour of the gold saw cut anodized aluminum you taken a look at the yellow saw cut anodized aluminum? It seems more similar to brass colour.
  10. dreadkb

    Anodized Aluminum

    ETA on a restock of W-JSAA18Ice ?
  11. Eric

    Brass rings or suitable alternative

    Bright, shiny brass exposed to air will tarnish over time. Usually goes greenish, but it can pick up different colors depending on what else is around (see https://www.sciencecompany.com/Patina-Formulas-for-Brass-Bronze-and-Copper.aspx) Bright brass is preserved with protective coating, like lacquer or Renaissance Wax. I use Brasso on a brass & stainless piece to quickly restore the shine, but the ammonia in Brasso will discolor aluminum.
  12. Last week
  13. Hey all, on my list of inlay projects in my queue is a inlay of the Hogwarts school crest. I am trying to figure out what to use for the main outline of the crest. I originally purchased machine cut anodized aluminum in "gold" which is fine, but considering that most of the other rings are saw cut and therefore shiny, I don't know how well it will go with the rest of it. I was contemplating getting brass rings, but I don't know if they will tarnish or if they will work out how I want. There isn't an anodized aluminum that is brass colored, so does anyone have any suggestions or input on the current selections? the rings are also 16g 1/4"
  14. HoratiOTFH

    Scales - all materials and sizes

    Joining the list for SCALEAALG-BLK
  15. HoratiOTFH

    Stainless Steel - Black and Plain

    Just joining the list for SS16516
  16. Bladeturner

    Stitching two pieces of scalemail together

    Mostly finished. The sleeves have some issues, and I may end up redoing them in a more traditional style. I'm particularly happy with the stabilization on the bottom row. I've got to do the same around the neckhole. This is my test piece for a gift I'm making for a family member. That one will be blue and white, with I hope an inlay that works well, but I'll have to play with templates until I get something I like.
  17. liriel

    Adding/Uniting Scale Mail and Chain Mail

    I'll guess your chainmail bag is a classic 4 in 1 pattern? If you make a strip of scale mail in the usual pattern with the rings you bought, and add a row or two of those small rings to do a transition from scale mail to 4 in 1 chain mail, it should not be too difficult to attach that chainmail to the top of your chainmail bag. The exact connection will depend on the size of the rings of course. For example, maybe you'll need to do a row of "5 in 1", with one row of rings each going through 3 small rings and 2 large rings.
  18. Konstantin the Red

    Newb Help with Persian 4 in 1

    So: expansions. An expansion is like a piece, a Unit (see above) of E5-1 in a field of E4-1. With the four links in the corners and one in the center, a fifth link is inserted between the two lower corner-links. This extra link hangs slightly lower than the original two. Because the center link is circular, naturally. The following row of links now has one more link to weave to, which makes it longer, expanding things. Every expansion link inserted adds one ID's worth of further length to the linkrow below it. That makes calculating how many expansions you need for the job easy. The great thing about triangular expansion arrays -- the expansions push them into triangular shapes -- is their great flexibility: you can have one link's worth of expansion, or you can add in lots. Making the triangle pretty wide. In .063" wire and 1/4" ID, you'll have all the room you need to insert that fifth (expansion) link. Appreciably tighter mail weave wouldn't have room to insert a full-thickness link. *But* if you really gotta do it, instead of an expansion link, you can insert an expansion hole -- a deliberate flaw in the weave. The simplest way to do (and explain) this trick is to use a twist tie to make like a temporary expansion link inside that cramped center link, then weave the next row on, treating the looped twist tie like it was the expansion link, and weave along normally, and putting in another row or two of links below where the twist tie is to make things stable. Then take the twist tie out; the hole in the weave is nearly invisible. Even if you don't need the trick, it's nice to know if you're making dense mail. Contractions and contraction arrays: they're just expansions turned upside down. Simple, eh? You can weave a contraction into mail weave just by hooking your open link through not two, but three, links in the row above it in the weave. This snugs up everything by one link ID. Or you can make contraction arrays out of expansion arrays by turning either one point up or point down -- that's if you pre-made your arrays. All you need to keep track of is that the links at the wider bases of both the triangles are angling in the same direction -- so you can simply zip them together with one single row of links which will angle in the opposite direction, or link-lie.
  19. Konstantin the Red

    Newb Help with Persian 4 in 1

    Roger that, xbitgeek. Not really necessary to use a mannequin if you're building for your own self -- then you can be your own mannequin -- but it doesn't hurt anything. You can always build mailpatches, both rectangular and expansion-triangle, and zip 'em on. Since mail is so much like knitting a sweater, it doesn't matter at all which direction you do your weaving in. I think I've woven E4-1 in every direction possible except the diagonal. And maybe you can do that! -- though I couldn't say why. Generating the mail weave in a row-wise direction -- horizontal worn on you, and the resilient direction -- or a columnwise direction -- vertical, and also the non-resilient direction -- both work just fine, so no worries. It varies a little with which way is best for generating a certain shape of mailpiece -- like if you made a belt or part of a belt of the stuff, you'd make it go row-wise, weaving. Part of a shirt -- that, I always start columnwise for just a bit, to establish the vertical height of the patch I'm making. It could be any height at all from three links' worth, to (pick a number out of the air) a couple hundred. Big enough for most things, and also kinda heavy to push around on your workbench, or the living room rug, by the time you're nearly done. I have an article in the M.A.I.L. library describing how I make a rectangular mail patch large enough to wrap entirely around my body, and with slack. That's how I used to do that kind of thing; now I think I'd work a little smaller, for convenience in inserting a triangular expansion array over each shoulder blade and then getting around to filling in between those, and taking care of the over-the- shoulder parts of the shirt, which when all is said and done is a) a rectangle, with b) a neckhole included, offset to forward -- bcs anatomy! -- and c) with expansion arrays reaching up onto the left and right shoulders about the middle of your trapezius muscles, which bend the sides of the rectangle outwards on the rear half of the shoulder rectangle, for that slack in the back I mentioned. But the large rectangle starts out sooooper simple: all I do is make a chain of alternating double and single links, 2 links 1 link 2 links 1 link as long as I like until it's long enough, and I finish it up with 1 link 2 links, stop. I smooth this chain out on the worksurface so all the links lie flat and in good order; nothing twisted: the doubled links angle up one way, the single links angle up the opposite way. That is the columnar-generated part, and is the first three columns of links on one side of a mail patch. Then I build onto the side of that chain. You've spread its length right and left in front of you, so you're probably adding on links to the edge nearest you. You could call it the bottom edge, though it really doesn't matter to the mail fabric. I like to cast links onto this edge of the long chain two links at a time. We call that "speedweaving" and okay, it at least feels like we're going faster, sticking two columns of links on at every go, generating and widening the mailpatch row-wise, along its resilient direction. That resilience won't be any too obvious until you've gotten it about ten links wide, but you'll get there. Probably just about the time your palms start getting sore! The very first of the two-fer links you cast onto that chain is really a three-fer: put two closed links in an opened link, then weave the open link into the edge of that chain, and close it. Now you have a 2-1-2-1 chain with a little L shaped tab on one end -- which is now 3-2-3-1-2-1-2 on down. The inside corner of the tab now presents you with three links to weave an open link through, and you can hang a closed link in it to make up the fourth link, in the fourth corner. Close that central link, and your L tab on the end is now fatter. Continue so on down your chain until you complete a whole chain of 3 links 2 links 3-2-3...2-3 stop. Now it looks less like a chain and more like a strap, doesn't it? Now you get to go back and start all over again! Isn't that just tons of fun? Eventually you've filled in a whole rectangle; part of a shirt. Big or small matters not at all. One way I size how tall the body rectangle is going to be is making that chain of singles and doubles -- another way to think of it is as a chain of "E4-1 Basic Units" as the Bladeturner mailshirt tutor calls them: tiny squares of mail links, four at the corners and one central one woven through the other four, hence 4-in-1 -- which you can see is exactly what's making up that chain -- is to make that chain long enough to stretch from high in my armpit down to the hem of the shirt, say mid thigh. Or, for some tailoring purposes, only going down from armpit to belt line, skirt and hem part to be added on below later. That trick works nicely for hauberks, which are pretty lengthy, descending to the kneecap, and wanting a bit of knowledgeable attention paid (more expansion arrays) to both the skirts and the riders' slits dividing them, so the slits stay slits and don't leave an inverted-V gap aimed right at your crotch. Hauberks are also the biggest and heaviest mail shirts. You are probably planning the more generic sort of shirt, the haburgeon: mid-thigh length or a bit higher, short or half sleeved. More advanced than the vest-like, vest-sized byrnie, which Beowulf wore. Story is, he could swim in it. (!) Strong dude. When building a shirt, avoid thinking of folding over your shoulders like a serape; instead, think in terms of going around you, front, back, and sides -- ending up with a tubelike shape that flares up somewhat wider at the top end right about where you take a chest measurement, the tailor tape under your arms. Then top it off with the shoulder section. No rule against making the shoulder section first thing and draping it on your shoulders to check for fit -- and *then* making the body barrel and zipping its top onto the shoulderpiece's edges, for all of the shirt except its sleeves, short or long. The 14th-century haburgeon had short to half sleeves; the 15th-century infantry or light horse shirt differed in having long sleeves, like a late-model hauberk's. My enthusiasm has made this novella long enough, so enjoy.
  20. Marie's Maille

    Anodized Aluminum

    Thank you
  21. xbitgeek

    Newb Help with Persian 4 in 1

    Hey guys. For the time being I scrubbed the inlay project. Currently working on a 4 in1 16g chainmail shirt. Trying to wrap my head around doing expansions. In Butted Mail: A Mail Makers Guide, the weave starts with the links going vertically. Once the weave is started do you rotate it and continue the weave horizontally? I apologize if this is stupid question but my brain is stuck here Kon: mold = mannequin Thanks all!
  22. Chiquilin

    Making electrical wire non-tarnishing

    Thanx for all the choices. What I've figured is I'll just use the rings I'm making to do practice pieces. Get my familiarized with what I'm doing.
  23. Jodey - TRL Tier 2 Support

    Anodized Aluminum

    Yes, there are enough sizes. As stated we estimate they will restock at the end of the month.
  24. Marie's Maille

    Anodized Aluminum

    Are there enough sizes of orange out of stock to warrant making rings?
  25. Jeff

    Newb Help with Persian 4 in 1

    First I was mistaken in aluminum being cheaper as I didn't notice it is about 600 rings per bag as opposed to 300 for aluminum. that being said I agreed that steel was better for combat, but the OP mentioned he wanted to do an inlay in his first post so that is why I asked what he was making this for as aluminum would give more options for colors and be less work to bend.
  26. lorenzo

    Making electrical wire non-tarnishing

    That's a bit tricky, electroplating is the best solution if you're up to it. Silver or gold being the most popular choices. You can kind of get a clear coat plastic to stick to finished chains if you do it just right but it's not ideal. Renaissance wax is a good solution but needs to be re-applied periodically.
  27. Hey there, Long-time enthusiast, short-time "actually-doing-it-myself-ist." I've been working on a chainmail pouch, and recently, following a visit to the Sterling Renaissance Festival, was inspired to start messing around with scale mail. In my head I see myself finishing this chain pouch with several rows of scales around the top. But the rings that I purchased along with the scales (recommended by the site as most compatible) differ in size from the ones the pouch is made of (ones I've wound and cut myself). So I guess I'm looking for advice on what routes I can take here, and what might work best; whether it's just adding a layer of the smaller scale mail rings and working off of those, or putting together the layers of scales and somehow attaching that over top of the existing bag and giving it a little girth around the mouth of the bag. I'm not super artistically minded, I just like making the stuff, so I appreciate any feedback you might have! -Alex
  28. Jodey - TRL Tier 2 Support

    Stainless Steel - Black and Plain

    We will restock ss16516 in about a month. It will be longer for bulk. Wire should be here very soon so we can make bulk after bagged is complete. So likely 2 months from now.
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