All Activity

This stream auto-updates   

  1. Today
  2. Forgive me if it's wrong to double post, I thought I'd keep adding more updates. As I get more done, I'm noticing that I'm starting to have more questions as well. I finished all of my scale armor panels for my suit of armor! After this, I finished weaving the maille for the back and sides of the chest armor, and I've attached the side panels to it as well. So now my armor is fully wearable! I'm still not entirely sure how to handle the shoulder holes, or the contractions for the front and back of my armor. All I know is I have to bring it in from about a 36 inch chest (72 units of maille) to a 32 inch waist, or about 64 units. I can probably also cut out a unit or two to account for the flexibility of the weave, I don't want too much slack. The gap on the back of the armor is 18 units wide, and the front is 8 that need to be filled. After that, I need to finish the sleeves on the scale shoulder panels, and attach those. Then it's a matter of finishing up the front and back portions below the waist, so that it's more akin to a hauberk than it is a haubergeon. I purchased some blue anodized aluminum rings and have been working on making diamond inlay designs that I can integrate into those pieces, for a bit more visual interest than is currently present in the chain maille portions. I might try and see about making some larger designs and shapes that I can incorporate into the contractions for the chest and back. The portions below the waist in the front and back are going to almost be like the tails of a coat, extending down from between the scale maille portions, edged in half Persian 3-1. Then after that, I still have a pair of greaves and vambraces to worry about, as well as a cloak, underclothing, and boots for my full suit of armor.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Can I assume that this new tariff does NOT effect Bronze, Brass or Titanium? (or any of the precious metals, for that matter) what about AA wire?
  5. So I'm working on a sleeve that's anodized aluminum and EPDM. It's going to be fairly tight over the arm and I was wondering if there was an aesthetically pleasing way to do the elbow (in and out) that would also be comfortable. Would a patch work? Or expansions and contractions? Maybe a smaller ring size for inside the elbow and larger for the outside? Curious to know if someone has done this and have it turn out well.
  6. Last week
  7. Do you have an ETA on Soft Temper stainless 18swg 5/32 and 3/16?
  8. Nice top. Is it "street legal"?
  9. Very nice.
  10. Nicely done TxKnight
  11. Earlier
  12. © TxKnight Creations

  13. © TxKnight Creations

  14. Thank you so much again. You've just given me everything I need to complete my first scalemail shirt. Really excited to finish this thing up :D. Your scalemail looks awesome. I like how you strung pure rings around the armpit. I'll probably have to tailor mine a bit after I complete it i'm sure, but it wont be much longer now! Edit: Picture I used of muscular anatomy chart facing right. For anyone who may be following this post in the future.
  15. Peace offering dreamcatcher. 5 inch craft ring with Purple AA rings in Byzantine and my own weave capturing the craft ring.

    © Alison Carpenter

  16. This is for July 4th/Independence Day dreamcatcher. Made with many weaves, my Celtic snowflake middle piece, Japanese 6 in 1, Byzantine. Using AA and Bright Aluminium rings. 8 inch craft ring.

    © Alison Carpenter

  17. Spring dreamcatcher. 8 inch craft ring using Japanese 4 in 1 and 6 in 1 with AA and Bright Aluminium rings.

    © Alison Carpenter

  18. If you look at a muscular anatomy chart with the figure facing right, you will see the latisimus dorsi (farthest left/back) serratus anterior ( more in the middle) and external obliques (further right) then the ol' abs along with the pecs above them. Around where those first three groups are meeting up is often a good place for a contraction: the relative bulk of the pecs and the lats are 'narrowing' down to the serratus muscles, before things begin 'flaring out' again at the obliques. This area is more towards the backside of the torso than the front. Yes, I meant in a single column for the contractions in your lower back. You can place one nearer the top, skip a row or two, then place the second underneath. As far as warning signs go, if it does not sit comfortably or binds when you move, you'll want to think about adjusting things. So, think two contractions the same height on either side of your torso, more towards the back than the front, at your natural waistline, and two contractions, one above the other, centered in the small of your back. As an aside, the link below is to a shared album. The pictures of the dark gray scale shirt was my first one when it was nearly complete. (I still had some mail to add to one sleeve.) That shirt had no contractions anywhere when those pictures were taken. The back panel was a few rows wider and taller than the front, and I sized everything so it all hung right at full extension at rest, that is all. I modified it later on, gaining a bit more freedom of movement with less 'stretching' of the back panel.
  19. welcome ahilynn, for the shirt, you can use theringlord's calculator here: i don't have experience making pants, but if you use the above calculator to get a number for a long-sleeve-t-shirt-sized shirt, i'd probably order the same amount more for the pants (so essentially two times what it calculates for the shirt to do both). maybe someone else here can give you a better number on that, though.
  20. Hi guys, I'm new to this website, and to weaving in general (except small pieces, but no full clothes !). As I'm from France there's not a lot of options to me, and I couldn't find any better place than here to ask for help ! I plan on making a suit of chainmail for my boyfriend, as a birthday gift. It would be a full top with sleeves, and a pair of legs, separated, from the waist to the ankles. I will be using the acrylic black rings, as it's only to complete a larp costume on a full week duration, there's no need for any metal. Could anyone guide me to how much rings I would need ? I don't mind if I have a bit too much, I just want to avoid as much as possible multiples orders, the shipping costs to France are quite high ! (If it's only possible to ship there ?) Oh, by the way he's like 1,75 meter tall, and has a small round belly haha
  21. Thanks Paladin, I spent hours yesterday playing around with contractions around my pecs. Which was basically me just adding and removing contractions over and over again, I didn't see much of a difference I think because there isn't much of a decline from my pec to my abs. I just want to confirm with the contraction at my natural waistline, you say on "either side", i'd be putting one on each side in a roughly equilateral location, approximately around the location where my ribs kinda flare out and decline down toward my lower abs is that correct? Also you said "nearer to the backside than your frontside", these contractions are still going on the front side correct? Just nearer to the side of my body/kidneys rather than the centre/stomach, or do you literally mean on my back on my natural waist line? I'm a little bit confused on the dividing the sides by three part. How does one know if a contraction in the correct or wrong spot? Are there any warning signs or positive signs? When you say "a contraction or two at the small of your back" do you mean a contraction side by side to another contraction in the lower back? or a contraction in the middle of the lower back and then another contraction either above or below that one in the same column? From my understanding, there will be 2 contractions on each side of the front of my body at the natural waistline, nearer to the sides of my body. And 1-2 contractions on the small of my back. Is that correct? I wont need one under each armpit (i'll be scaling underneath my armpits soon to create the wrap around shirt)? Or is that what essentially the two front contractions will be doing. I'll look into adding the 90-degree link, thanks for the heads up! Thanks again for all your information. I'm going to remove my two contractions on each pec again and scale my way down to the waistline and to the lower back. Really appreciate the help. I might be able to finish this thing by the end of next week!
  22. Take this with a grain of salt, because comfort is a personal thing. Given your shape, the size of your scales, and that you are making a pull-over shirt, I would recommend a contraction at your 'natural waistline' (The one well above your belly button) on either side, more towards your backside than your front side. Divide your sides by three and place in the third closest to your back, if the description makes sense. And another contraction or two at the small of your back. Unless you add an expansion at the top of your shoulders, I would not worry about a contraction underneath your shoulder blades. Each contraction effectively eliminates a row of scales, so things can get tight quickly if you are not careful. If you size everything so that the scales hang right at full extension you will find they conform to you better than you may expect; especially as the weight of the piece increases. This also leaves you a bit of room for expansion as you move. (Scales expand horizontally across the weave as they contract vertically, and contract horizontally as they expand vertically.) I would think about your shoulder seam as well. The current arrangement looks like it will eventually become rather uncomfortable and have trouble holding together as the weight of your shirt increases. Since you mention raising your arms above your head; the scales do not flex as well horizontally along the sheet as they do vertically. Meaning you can find the sides of the panels being driven into your neck as you reach for the sky; especially if you have full sleeves, large 'spaulders', or even broad 'straps'. As it looks now, I do not think you will have that issue, but I would not narrow your head hole any. A 'quick' fix that would reinforce your shoulder seam without resizing anything could be a single row 90 degree link. There is a picture in the guide that shows one from the top and bottom. The arrangement seen with the aluminum scales would likely work best with what you presently have, if you want to try it. Keep up the good work!
  23. funny i have a question about dragonscale ring size too i have been using bright aluminum 18g 1/4 outer, and 20g 5/32 inner black, or blue. and it's worked fine.. a bit stiff but still a nice weave for a cuff bracelet. Now i'm trying copper inner same size.. and its too tight after about the 8th row. I vaguely remember a few years ago doing the same thing with copper and finding the same issue.. TRL rings btw. I'm wondering what a good size would be to switch to. I"m not savvy enough to know if i need larger inner rings or larger outer rings to make a slightly looser weave.. and it cant be too loose.. i've seen that and dont like it Any help would be great thanks. i really really want to do the copper inner.
  24. Nicely done
  25. Just and all aluminum circular expansion.
  26. We have some matte greens scheduled and they should be made within a week or 2. Matte purple is not yet scheduled.
  27. Any estimate on when you guys might run matte greens and purples for the first time? I'd love to order 16g 1/4" matte (and eventually other sizes) in all the colors, but green and purple are what I'm waiting on most of all! Thanks! @twilightrose917: I also hope they bring in violet in saw cut as a normal color. Some other suppliers have it, and TRL has done some custom runs of it, but as far as I know they've mentioned only running that color as custom orders (which is a shame because it is by far my favorite of the purple colors offered! "Purple" is too blue...I consider it more Ultraviolet myself!)
  1. Load more activity