All Activity

This stream auto-updates   

  1. Today
  2. What GForce said. When you have too much g-force. G for "Ghurrghn -- get in there!" Needle nose pliers are very wicked for that -- keep away from them. Use the broadnosed types like you said. Twist and shove inward; brute power. For projects like mailshirts that don't really need the most artful ring cuts -- most shirts get their links cut with boltcutters or snips and end up with link ends that look mostly like ><, I horse the ends in together and overlap the points, to where they end up like /\\/ (this view is rotated ninety degrees from the other, accepting a link that ends up slightly out of round -- not so very different from how historical riveted links ended up, tending as they do to bulge where the overlap and rivet closure is. Jewelry-type mail projects of course play by more demanding rules and can afford them. Armor-type projects are nearly as functional -- not fancy -- as a Parkerized .45 pistol. Parkerizing steel produces a rust resistant, though not altogether proof, just better than some, matte-gray finish to it. Twentieth century military. It isn't as much used any more on guns, as coating processes have advanced. It retains popularity in auto parts, how about that.
  3. Pale Yellow is not popular enough to restock - it will not be replaced. AA1438green will be replaced by a new product line. The exact product will not be replaced.
  4. Last week
  5. I'm holding an order waiting for SXBJR16316 to be back in stock - is it coming soon? If not I'll place the order without it.
  6. You need to exert inward pressure as you twist the ring ends back and forth so that the gap (the kerf) gradually closes. You should hear the wire ends click as they brush against each other (you can hear this is the video). Just be careful when pressing inwards that your grip on the ring is secure - if you slip you can bang your knuckles or stab yourself...
  7. The Listing Machine Green 14g 3/8 rings is just gone. What does this mean? Item would Be AA1438 Green
  8. Are there any plans to add saw cut AA in 16 swg 3/16? I use the machine cut AA in that size for low-cost JPL bracelets, but I'd much prefer to use the nicer SX quality if it was available in that size. Apologies if this is a duplicate message, I thought I posted this yesterday but it disappeared.
  9. Sorry, I didn't notice that the link didn't take.
  10. Thanks for the response. I think i'll need the video to understand. I'm unsure about the meaning of horsing the ends together. I've been working on the scalemail for a few hours now and my current tactic is twisting open the rings to the bottom left and trying to twist left when closing them. Having more success, but still not the best , but i'll keep chugging along :D.
  11. Sounds like the vid, whenever it arrives, will show a method of twisting the links closed like revving a motorbike, combined with horsing the ends together as you twist, maybe taking a couple of repetitions to get the cut ends to grind together. It doesn't quite sound like that is what you're presently doing to close your rings.
  12. Which video? Sorry.
  13. Watch the technique in this video. As you twist the rings closed, you can ease the cuts closer together.
  14. Hey there! I'm just starting my first scale mail shirt and I'm having a little bit of difficulty with the Stainless Steel 18g - 18ga 1/4 ID Machine Cut Jump Rings leaving a little gap when I close them (the gap is large enough that my scales are falling out). The technique I'm using is gripping the ring approximately two thirds up with two Wide Nose Pliers (Ringlord Brand) and holding the left side in place and pulling down with the right side. I do the same when closing except pulling upwards. I have a set of Chain Nose Pliers as well if you think those would be better to use. Any tips/tricks would be greatly appreciated The first pic has the gap, the second one is ideal (But I had to squeeze the ring together with the pliers to obtain that.)
  15. HI! I've been using the machine cut AA16316 for a long time to make low-cost colorful JPL bracelets. Its the only machine cut AA that I use, and I only use it because you don't make that size in saw cut. Is there any plan to ever make the nicer quality SXAA in this size as anything other than a special?
  16. Interesting. I still didn't get pictures taken. Hopefully this weekend, if I get the time.
  17. Yes, it's 1000 small scales per square foot.
  18. Thank you for your reply, However on the calculator, there is that big scales, how do I do for small? or 1000 = small scales and 300 = large scales?
  19. Earlier
  20. ETA on all small titanium scale restock?
  21. Hola! Any idea when the STRIP-Copper (2"x10" 20g strips) will be back in stock? Also, if I wanted circle blanks of bronze (same as the 1 inch copper circle blanks - "ZBLNK-A") is that a special order with a minimum? No holes, just a punched circle.
  22. ETA for small/light frost scales SCSM-TBA-FST? Since these are "special", will these be restocked, or should I order something else instead? Are SCALE-SM-AAFrost, the heavier version, similar enough that I could mix them without noticing much?
  23. Saw cut rings have a nicely finished edge that is suitable for jewellery. Machine cut are fine for use with scales, as they are largely concealed behind the scales. This link explains saw cut vs. machine cut rings: http://theringlord.com/cart/shopcontent.asp?type=RingCutDetails This link helps to calculate the number of scales needed to make a shirt. Unfortunately it is in inches rather than centimetres, so you would need to convert: http://theringlord.com/cart/shopcontent.asp?type=ScaleCalculator
  24. Hello, (Sorry for writing, I'm French) I would like to make a titanium armor, small size scales, However, I have a hard time knowing for the amount of scales ... I am 1M80 and it is for armor small scales without handle. Below:
  25. There is another piece of mail that is built like a camail, but is of larger diameter: the fifteenth-century bishop's-mantle. It's a sort of short cape of mail, full circle, hanging to about your elbows. Triangular dags were sometimes used here also, but a quite small number of quite large dags. This is a piece of gear for if you want to do Landsknecht at the Faire, in outrageous particolored and slashed and puffed doublet, hose, and slashed codpiece too. (Very spectacular, very arrogant) This is for if you want to go playing with great big German swords, the armor-cracking, pikestaff-lopping Zweihänder. It gets away with its large size and substantial weight because it's not attached to a helmet, but simply closes close about the neck. It doesn't impair head movement as it would if attached to a helmet. Many Landsknechts wore no other armor, not even a helmet; they'd put a hat on, also decoratively slashed, as was the style of the times.
  26. In that particular area and application, soaking up the impact of a weapon strike is what it bloomin' well does. Works best with the camail large enough to drape over the points of the shoulders. Not too much bigger than that, though, or it becomes appallingly heavy and hardly lets you move your head with freedom -- so, big enough to come to the bottom of your delts at most, and stopping a little short of there is fine. The mail also hangs some inches away from the column of your neck, all round, giving space to absorb incoming energy; plus, it is actively held out there by virtue of hanging off your bascinet. It's like trying to bat your way in, through a steel curtain. Add to this that the sword's trying to drag an increasing mass of the mail in after it, plus the frictive drag over your bony shoulder -- well! It's also a great piece to decorate with contrasting metal, or fringe with dags. You can make triangular dags come out nice and regular this way: a) count how many rings around the edge of the camail you've woven; b) factor this number, unless you find it is a prime number; c) the smaller factor number will be how many links make the base of each triangle, but don't make the base of the triangle that number, but instead, that number minus one (and of open links which you will use to zip the triangles onto the links of the edge; d) the larger number is how many triangles you will have round the edge of the camail. Picking an easy example: a camail whose periphery is 156 links around, factored into 12 x 13. Thirteen triangles, each of which shall fit onto every twelve links of camail periphery. Easiest way is, having figured these thirteen segments of twelve each, that you then weave 11 links onto each twelve-link segment. You've added another link row, with gaps in it. Then just keep filling in the triangles, each linkrow in a triangle being one link fewer than the row nearer the hem of the camail, until finally you have a point at the end, consisting of 1 link. Avoid making up triangles ready made because it's easy to err in your link-lie, and you have to go back and revise things; just make the triangles grow out from the hem. I like odd numbers of triangular dags, so that you can center one dag upon either the front centerline or the rear centerline. (Right and left can just fall where they may.) Whoa, I got a prime number of links round my periphery! No prob -- it's okay to just fudge, and put the extra amount in the center back. Or put in another linkrow including an expansion link or two to get off of that prime number amount, and be able to factor the new number of links as above. Either way, easy peasy.
  27. Joan of Arc in my armory
  1. Load more activity