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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/04/20 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Please see above re: small ti scales. Looking into whether we have strip for SCALE-SM-AAClear/sc-sm-aaclrbulk. I should know something by the end of the week regarding the clear.
  2. 1 point
    We are waiting for the new dies, which are expected in the next 3 weeks. It's entirely possible that we can have them made sooner after we get the dies, but at this time I cannot give a better estimate than up to 2 months. This is a product we want to make as soon as we can, but we are not willing to make scales without the new dies because we want to make the best possible scales we can. We will also be making more of the scales than usual as we want to keep up with demand. We've already ordered 2x the strip we normally do and will continue ordering larger amounts of strip until we hit the point where we are keeping these in stock so there aren't long gaps like what's happened this time. We have made changes to the way we purchase raw materials so we can keep more items in stock. It's hard to see that right now because raw materials that were ordered 2 and 3 months ago with this idea in mind are just arriving to us now, so there is a delay. But going forward there will be fewer items out of stock because we don't have raw materials.
  3. 1 point
    Brighton

    Chainmail Ties

    I just finished making my boys some Euro 4-1 ties! AA 16AWG 5/16" ~500 rings
  4. 1 point
    technophebe

    Question for Welding Mail

    So I rewound the transformer and added a timer relay for consistency, and to my *great* surprise, it works! I'm not sure exactly what sort of current I'm getting but I was aiming for the 1000A with the number of coils I used. The timer needs to be set to about 0.9-1.0s to get good welds consistently. I'm using custom pliers with a groove ground into them to allow me to apply good pressure to the weld, I don't think I had enough pressure squeezing the weld together otherwise: I'm just working on getting into a rhythm and speeding things up now. Does anyone have any input as to how long hold time needs to be after the weld? I'm holding for 10s at the moment to be safe but I suspect I probably don't need anywhere near that much.
  5. 1 point
    Please place and pay for what you can get on the website. Then send an email to orders (at) theringlord.com with your order number asking to make the total 7 ounces. Customer service will add the item and let you know the total owing.
  6. 1 point
    lorenzo

    Question for Welding Mail

    Hey guys, here's a link to the manual for the TRL resistance welders that I built. It has a handy circuit diagram and some pics you might find helpful. As you can probably tell it is essentially just a modified version of one of those harbor freight spot welders that Rob posted. They are more or less as you described them, just a step down transformer. The real trick is to find a beefy enough timed relay at an affordable price to get repeatable results. For resistance welding you generally want to keep the output current below 5v. I have seen resistance welders using 12v or even 24v but they spit a lot of sparks and arcs and are hard to control. I've built similar setups with TIG welders and they work well, anything that functions at 5A or less is pretty controllable for rings. I highly recommend a solid state HF arc starter though. Scratch start is a pain and you'll burn out an non-solid state HF start in no time. Same idea as the resistance welder, I just splice a timed relay into the pedal controls. Once again the timer relay is the key here. The welds at this scale happen so fast that you can't really get consistent results without one. With a good relay you could probably use most welders to get okay results. I've also used torch brazing to join rings in the past, it worked really well and looked great but it takes longer than welding.
  7. 1 point
    Rob MacLennan

    Question for Welding Mail

    Couldn't tell you the output current, because it doesn't have a rating for it that I can find. I can tell you that it's rated at 2000W and two quick pulses will blow a 16 gauge mild steel ring like a fuse. It can be tuned with a digital setting over 30 steps from barely a tingle, to melt into slag. This is my video of it in use.
  8. 1 point
    Rob MacLennan

    Question for Welding Mail

    The most common method for ring welding is resistance welding; essentially with a purpose made spot welder. The RingLord used to sell resistance welders (I got one of the last three before they were discontinued), bu some people have built their own using coils from microwave ovens. It can be plenty strong if it's a weld right through the material, but this video shows little more than a tack weld.
  9. 1 point
    I made this outfit about 9 years ago, and I syill wear it to events today. Both the coat & skirt are made from 18 gauge wire wrapped to 3/8" I.D. except were otherwise noted. The tailcoat is made from 36,864 stainless steel rings and about 100 3/16" I.D. brass rings for attaching the leather collar and cuffs. The buttons are gold tone and go through working button holes, and the sleeve is semi-fitted. The skirt is made from 14782 aluminum rings, and 3890 stainless rings. The stainless rings are woven European 6in1 for a sturdy waistband. The aluminum is woven in 8 panels of hexagonal expansion (like you'd do for the top of a coif), to give the skirt a slight over-gore for a very nice swing and twirl when moving. The tailcoat weighs 18 lbs. and the skirt is another 3 lbs. This makes for a total weight of 21 lbs., before adding corset (the extra back support is nice when wearing this), underwear, petticoat, shoes and whatever other accessories one chooses to add. Any activity becomes an instant workout, but it looks darn good!

    © Katrina Wolffe, Kittensoft Chainmail

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