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Showing most liked content since 01/20/18 in all areas

  1. 7 likes
    Pinecone earrings I made to go along with a friend's bracelet. These I made almost by accident when I noticed how nice it looked to make a tight cylinder of dragonscale.
  2. 7 likes
    Dragonscale shirt tailored using Chinese mountain armor pattern, stainless steel split rings, .192" ID/.028" wire and .264" ID/.032 wire, around 58,000 rings total.

    © Dr. T

  3. 5 likes
    Dr. T

    Isotropic shirt

    Isotropic fabric shirt made from E 4-1 diamonds arranged in 3 different orientations. Stainless steel split rings, 0.192" ID/0.028" wire and 0.264" ID/0.032" wire, around 45 000 rings total.
  4. 4 likes
    Star of David patterned shirt. Stats: Half-Persian 3-1 sheet 6 and European 4-1, stainless steel split rings, .192" ID/.028" wire and .264" ID/.032" wire, around 44,000 rings total.

    © Dr. T

  5. 2 likes
    Slagr

    Pouch of Polyhedra (Open)

    20 awg, 3/32" hoodoo hex in stainless steel with JPL seams in brass. 5mm Swarovski chaton captures at vertexes. 20 awg, 3/16" stainless steel pencil weave string pulls with 16 swg, 5/16" orbitals. The geometric structure is an icosahedron-- the same shape as the 20-sided dice the bag was built to hold.
  6. 2 likes
  7. 1 like
    XL black scales will be back in stock within a week
  8. 1 like
    Within 1 week. Our Toronto facility ran out of 18g stainless wire. As Jon said - you can always get customer service to add it to an order. Just put a note in the comments area.
  9. 1 like
    Yes, annealing is what is meant by normalizing. You hold the steel maybe 50C above critical temp for long enough for the grain structure to refine. How long and at what temp depends upon the type and thickness of the metal. For something like 16 guage rings I wouldn't imagine that would be very long.
  10. 1 like
    You can find a little research on heat treating that paticular alloy by downloading the heat treaters companion appl. There is a decent chance someone in your area has a glass kiln for lampwork beads, fuseing, or slumping that maybe willing to help. The kilns have a digital readout/controler and most are fairly easy to open the top, pull out the piece and dunk it in a bucket of vegtable oil. Rhough you may have issues with some rings deforming under its own weight.
  11. 1 like
    Company wise, there are places that will do heat treating for mostly large projects (pretty much every tool anyone uses has been heat treated), but you can often ask them to do a tiny batch (one item). I would also look into finding someone with a kiln, as those will reach the proper temperatures easily (and is actually the recommended method for heat treating). I always love to hear someones interested in learning the craft! If you ever decide one day that you want to pick up the hammer, I would do a quick local search for blacksmiths in your area as there are a lot of classes people are willing to offer to give you a taste of blacksmithing without committing time and money for a forge.
  12. 1 like
    Curious: Should not the welded armour be normalized first so that you're dealing with as uniform a structure as possible, prior to tempering? Or is that superfluous, given that you're water quenching everything up to that same weld level of brittleness?
  13. 1 like
    Skip this if you only want to hear about the heat treat So, the ring lord says that their carbon steel rings are 1062 carbon steel (mostly iron with .62% +- 0.05% carbon). Most 10xx series steels below 1095 have a fairly simple heat treat, but first take a moment to experiment a bit. When you heat up steel you get colors depending on how hot the steel was due to oxidation types. these are a reasonable way to judge how hot your steel got. If only the area directly around the weld is blue/washed out light gray I would consider it fine as it should retain much of its integrity. The higher temperature the steel gets, the more flexible, and soft the steel gets. However with temperatures in welding you run into a problem called "grain growth" which is farther into the science of steel than i'm gonna get, but makes the steel brittle. For knives/swords many other people (and I) use a 400 degree (F) temper, but this is fairly brittle for armor. TLR website does not state what temperature they temper to and only give us a KSI rating. You may not get the majority of the steel hotter than TLR tempers, but thats a lot of "if". However, as a steel geek I digress, back to the heat treat. Actual heat treatment info For heat treating 1062 you are going to need two important things. A home heat treating setup, or the phone number of a company or person who does. I would recommend doing some research into local companies that might be able to heat treat for you, but if you are like me and unwilling to pay someone else to do it you can make a heat treat setup yourself. For heat treating 1062 you will need to get the whole piece up to around 1475 degrees (F) and hold it at that temperature for ~5 minutes at minimum. You can hold it at that temperature for up to ~15 minutes, but thats more up to what you feel like doing that day. Once it has gotten to that point you will remove it from the heat and quench in it in lukewarm water until it has stopped boiling the water. After this it will be glass hard and can shatter if you drop it on the ground. I would then put it in the oven at 600 degrees (F) for an hour, then let it cool. That should give you armor hardness, but flexible enough not to shatter if dropped Obligatory warnings! With anything involving lots of fire, this is dangerous. This is very dangerous. I have been heat treating things for multiple years, but still burn myself every once in a while. you also do not want to be known as that one dude who burned down their block trying to make a cool chainmaille project. Almost any heat treat will be risky. Even with a fairly simple steel, and a fairly thick piece (rings), and a disregard for how perfectly straight your piece has to be coming out of quench, there is still a chance it will go wrong. There is a chance some of the rings might crack, or shatter, or warp so badly that you have to remove them and put a new ring in. There is also the chance that nothing will happen. Any number of things can make it so that your piece will not harden at all. A way to check would be take a metal file and scrape it along the rings after quench. If the file skates as if it were on glass, then the steel is hard and super brittle until you temper it in the oven. There is a chance that you will decarburize the outer layer of the rings and then end up with a thousandth of an inch around every ring that is soft. This means you will have a scratch prone exterior that will eventually wear away leaving hard steel below it (you can remove this yourself though various methods like putting it in a barrel of sand a shaking it a ton) There is also a reasonable chance I might be wrong about parts of this. I have never heat treated chainmaille before. I heat treat the things that chainmaille is supposed to stop. I might be off about the temper temperature which is thankfully a fixable mistake, but do not take what I have said in totality I am just one of the simple voices of the internet (albeit one specialized in this). Do your own research too!
  14. 1 like
    Is there an ETA on when the Titanium and Niobium anodizer (KXANODIZER120V1A) will be back in stock?
  15. 1 like
    how is this even possible? is it out and out lying? is it chinese lead? https://www.amazon.com/Medieval-Chain-Mail-Shirt-Armor/dp/B00AMQPY5I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487220146&sr=8-1&keywords=chainmail+suit+and+hat
  16. 1 like
    nice sherlocking, did you use tineye? lol I know it's going to be garbage quality but isn't 20 pounds of steel worth more than $70!?!
  17. 1 like
    Look at the "customer images" and I think it will explain everything.
  18. 1 like
    bikepartjewelry

    Ti dragonback

    Dragonback necklace made from 20g 1/8" ID titanium, blue anodized titanium and purple anodized titanium. Features a titanium lobster claw clasp. $75