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About lorenzo

  • Rank
    Ten feet tall and bulletproof!
  • Birthday 07/21/1978

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Swift Current, SK
  • Location
    Swift Current, Saskatchewan
  • Interests
    maille and scale, armour and jewelry
  • Occupation
    President/CEO at MailleTec Industries Inc.
  • The year you started making chainmail

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  1. lorenzo

    Supported straight scale

    It needs to be attached to something else to do that, it won't stand up on it's own.
  2. lorenzo

    Wrapped tags questions

    The difference between the AA colors should be almost nil, it sounds to me like you may have received the wrong rings. You should probably get in touch with TRL customer service and see if they can help you get this sorted out. Do you have anything that you can use to measure them and confirm? Is it possible that you confused the silver AA with a similar ring? For example machine cut 19g 3/16" BA looks very close but is a different alloy manufactured by a different process and the sizes are slightly different. If all else fails I would just try substituting middle column of rings in the weave with 20g 3/16" AA. That should loosen it up enough to work but won't look too different.
  3. lorenzo

    Question for Welding Mail

    There is definitely a need for squeeze pressure but it should either come from the redirected force of pressing the ring into the electrodes or spring tension in the ring itself.
  4. lorenzo

    Question for Welding Mail

    Yes, as a rule you want the current as high as possible for as short as possible, this reduces oxidation in the weld. Based on the pictures most of your welds are brittle as a result of oxide inclusions in the weld area. Those welds aren't even close to as strong as they should be. The weld pressure needs to be applied by the electrodes, using the pliers is wrong. The whole point is that heating occurs where there is the most resistance and you need that to be between the ends of the rings, not between the ring and the electrodes. That means that the contact pressure between the ring and the electrodes needs to be higher than between the ring ends.
  5. lorenzo

    Question for Welding Mail

    You can use the color of the weld to judge the hold time, once it stops glowing it's definitely okay. 1000A @ 1 sec isn't great but it'll work. You should probably clean and degrease the joint on those rings before welding or use a bit of gas to reduce oxidation. Shortening those weld cables might also help. The main problem I see with your setup is that those electrodes should be angled to better redirect the force applied by pushing the ring into the electrodes into a force pushing the ends of the joint together.
  6. lorenzo

    Sacle mail waterproof?

    It would work better than nothing but it wouldn't keep you dry.
  7. lorenzo

    Question for Welding Mail

    For some reason that link didn't show the last time I posted it so here it is again, a copy of the manual for the old TRL resistance welders. https://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.php?key=594
  8. lorenzo

    Question for Welding Mail

    There's no real benefit to having them closer than about 3 wire diameters apart. From the sound of it you're burning up the rings, the weld should happen in a fraction of a second. I use 200A to weld 24g rings, you'll need a lot more than that for thicker wire.
  9. lorenzo

    Question for Welding Mail

    Hey guys, here's a link to the manual for the TRL resistance welders that I built. It has a handy circuit diagram and some pics you might find helpful. As you can probably tell it is essentially just a modified version of one of those harbor freight spot welders that Rob posted. They are more or less as you described them, just a step down transformer. The real trick is to find a beefy enough timed relay at an affordable price to get repeatable results. For resistance welding you generally want to keep the output current below 5v. I have seen resistance welders using 12v or even 24v but they spit a lot of sparks and arcs and are hard to control. I've built similar setups with TIG welders and they work well, anything that functions at 5A or less is pretty controllable for rings. I highly recommend a solid state HF arc starter though. Scratch start is a pain and you'll burn out an non-solid state HF start in no time. Same idea as the resistance welder, I just splice a timed relay into the pedal controls. Once again the timer relay is the key here. The welds at this scale happen so fast that you can't really get consistent results without one. With a good relay you could probably use most welders to get okay results. I've also used torch brazing to join rings in the past, it worked really well and looked great but it takes longer than welding.
  10. lorenzo

    minimizing the weight of the scale vest

    Lol, it's industry standard for lifting chains, more a rule of thumb than the actual engineering specs and it's based on UTS rather than YS so it's not an apples to apples comparison. As for the chainmail industry most operate under ISO 9001 to the best of my knowledge. However, the safety products they make will generally be certified to various standards for international markets. In America it's generally NIJ-0115.00 for body armor, for gloves ANSI/ISEA 105.
  11. lorenzo

    minimizing the weight of the scale vest

    8x is a good margin, industry standard for chain is only 3x so you should be good.
  12. lorenzo

    Newby question about chainmail suit

    Generally speaking that's correct, some galvanized is quite strong but it also has issues with discoloration and smell of the zinc coating.
  13. lorenzo

    Newby question about chainmail suit

    That should be a good ring size for your purposes. What kind of steel are you using? It sounds like you want this thing to last and not require a lot of maintenance, if that's the case I'd stay away from galvanized or annealed steel.
  14. lorenzo

    minimizing the weight of the scale vest

    Well, it doesn't hurt to ask TRL and see what they're willing to do. Another option would be to use a welder if you have one, regular stainless is plenty strong even with a tack weld.
  15. lorenzo

    minimizing the weight of the scale vest

    You have to make a custom order for the spring stainless ones, not sure how it works right now with the change in ownership. When I worked at TRL I would just coil and cut them myself. They will be more expensive though, that's the real trade off for lightweight armor. Making your own rings would be the least expensive option there.