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lorenzo

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About lorenzo

  • Rank
    Ten feet tall and bulletproof!
  • Birthday 07/21/1978

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.mailletec.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Swift Current, SK
  • Location
    Swift Current, Saskatchewan
  • Interests
    maille and scale, armour and jewelry
  • Occupation
    President/CEO at MailleTec Industries Inc.
  • The year you started making chainmail
    1995

Recent Profile Visitors

10962 profile views
  1. lorenzo

    Seeing what works for others

    In my experience it's much easier to make a living with the jewelry side but I find the armour more rewarding. You'd have to get very good at armouring to compete with the options that are already out there.
  2. lorenzo

    Other types of armor

    The socks are for lumberjacks, keeps them from splitting their feet in half with an errant axe stroke.
  3. lorenzo

    Other types of armor

    Dusters with mail mantles work well, though I've never done one. Mail epaulets are a military tradition in many countries. Belts can be done for style but leather is almost always better, the best one I made was a very tight weave in welded titanium. Mostly sashes for fashion only, I've made a few hundred of those. I've made quite a few halter or bikini tops, those are pretty popular. Half a dozen full dresses, including one for a statue that weighed 500 lbs. Thousands of socks and gloves. Hundreds of full suits.
  4. lorenzo

    Coif collar

    The great thing about mail armor is that it's infinitely adjustable, I rebuilt my first shirt three times. As you wear it you can just change it to suit if you find it lacking in any one area. With that said, I don't see any major flaws in it's construction.
  5. lorenzo

    Coif collar

    I'm fairly certain that the phenomenon you're describing is only a result of the transitional period of armor having ended about 600 years ago. Mail armor has never been accorded a high cultural value and was generally just considered obsolete and discarded or re-purposed at that time. From my discussions with staff at the Royal Armouries it's my understanding that this was common practice even by museum curators up until the mid 20th century.
  6. lorenzo

    Leather edged, fabric lined chainmail shirt

    It may surprise you to learn that the method of construction you propose is traditional in Japan. It's referred to as nanban kusari(or gusari) and came about from Japanese armorers importing european mail and modifying it to Japanese tastes. It was fairly common from about the mid 16th century to the mid 19th century.
  7. lorenzo

    Coif collar

    I'm not aware of a specific term for the flaps on coifs but perhaps Konstantin will know. Coifs as a rule were only in wide use before plate armor was. During the transitional period they fell out of use in favour of the aventail or camail and were pretty much gone by the time the age of plate armour came about.
  8. lorenzo

    Coif collar

    Just a quick correction, it's actually six expansions for a flat circle. Less than that forms a cone, more than that forms a ruffle. With a loose AR the difference between 4-8 expansions per link row isn't very noticeable.
  9. lorenzo

    Coif collar

    Just FYI the part of a coif that covers the shoulders is typically referred to as a "mantle" or when made as a standalone piece without the coif sometimes a "bishop's mantle" or "mail standard".
  10. lorenzo

    Painting/ Dying Galvanized Mail

    Please understand that any finish you put on mail will eventually wear off with use, the only thing that will really last is, as Konstantin mentioned, to just polish it and wax or oil it. Your first step to getting any type of nice looking finish on your armor should be to strip the zinc off of it. The second step is to tumble or acid etch the metal to a uniform matte finish so that any further coatings will adhere well. Based on your preferences I think you should go with a black oxide conversion coating as it will be one of the longest lasting finishes and also historically accurate. You'd create a russet finish by flash rusting the piece, historically this is done by storing it in damp sawdust with urine, but you can substitute bleach or vinegar. Shake it around to make sure the rusting is even and once you have a uniform coating apply tannic acid, if you're going the historical route, or a commercial rust converter to chemically change the coating into black iron oxide. After that you just seal the coating with wax and you're done, you can use the more historical beeswax but I highly recommend using Renaissance wax instead.
  11. lorenzo

    Supported straight scale

    It needs to be attached to something else to do that, it won't stand up on it's own.
  12. lorenzo

    Wrapped tags questions

    The difference between the AA colors should be almost nil, it sounds to me like you may have received the wrong rings. You should probably get in touch with TRL customer service and see if they can help you get this sorted out. Do you have anything that you can use to measure them and confirm? Is it possible that you confused the silver AA with a similar ring? For example machine cut 19g 3/16" BA looks very close but is a different alloy manufactured by a different process and the sizes are slightly different. If all else fails I would just try substituting middle column of rings in the weave with 20g 3/16" AA. That should loosen it up enough to work but won't look too different.
  13. lorenzo

    Question for Welding Mail

    There is definitely a need for squeeze pressure but it should either come from the redirected force of pressing the ring into the electrodes or spring tension in the ring itself.
  14. lorenzo

    Question for Welding Mail

    Yes, as a rule you want the current as high as possible for as short as possible, this reduces oxidation in the weld. Based on the pictures most of your welds are brittle as a result of oxide inclusions in the weld area. Those welds aren't even close to as strong as they should be. The weld pressure needs to be applied by the electrodes, using the pliers is wrong. The whole point is that heating occurs where there is the most resistance and you need that to be between the ends of the rings, not between the ring and the electrodes. That means that the contact pressure between the ring and the electrodes needs to be higher than between the ring ends.
  15. lorenzo

    Question for Welding Mail

    You can use the color of the weld to judge the hold time, once it stops glowing it's definitely okay. 1000A @ 1 sec isn't great but it'll work. You should probably clean and degrease the joint on those rings before welding or use a bit of gas to reduce oxidation. Shortening those weld cables might also help. The main problem I see with your setup is that those electrodes should be angled to better redirect the force applied by pushing the ring into the electrodes into a force pushing the ends of the joint together.
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