Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


About lorenzo

  • Rank
    Ten feet tall and bulletproof!
  • Birthday 07/21/1978

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Swift Current, SK
  • Location
    Swift Current, Saskatchewan
  • Interests
    maille and scale, armour and jewelry
  • Occupation
    President/CEO at MailleTec Industries Inc.
  • The year you started making chainmail

Recent Profile Visitors

11818 profile views
  1. You've accidentally made a contraction in the weave there. It's a good learning experience, you'll need to master those.
  2. lorenzo

    you'll never believe what mila kunis wore!

    Fair point, I should probably re-examine my unrealistic beauty standards. Does photoshop have a brush for that now?
  3. lorenzo

    you'll never believe what mila kunis wore!

    Based on the amount of distortion, cropping and other manipulation in that photo she has a lot of imperfections. lol.
  4. Yeah, that definitely looks like a voltage differential, I've never had that particular issue before. I do know that when using batteries as a power source you can get voltage droop as the batteries discharge, and considering the capacity of those batteries I would guess that you're using too large a container for your electrolyte solution.
  5. Hey sorry about the late reply, I've been offline for a while. So anodized titanium doesn't use dyes and isn't a super hard coating like most other anodized metals, it's really just a thin layer of clear oxide that diffracts light into the colors of the rainbow. This means that the perceived color is very sensitive to contaminants and damage to the oxide layer. Often it's just a bit of skin oil and needs to be degreased with some acetone but wear and tear does cause dulling of the color layer from microscopic scratches. It won't hold up unchanged to armor use. As far as forming armor to the human body goes, it can be difficult. There are a lot of things to know. I would start with learning about tailoring for shirts and dresses, that's how I started getting the hang of it. There are a lot more tutorials and patterns for that out there and it pretty much translates directly across to armor.
  6. The amount of material added on under the arm will depend on the measurements of the wearer. To remove the duct tape dummy from the shirt just unstuff the dummy. I would go with bright anodized aluminum since it has the closest reflective spectrum to silver and mithril is supposed to look like silver.
  7. I'd definitely try matching them scale for scale, it looks like it would give you a better result. With that said I've never followed the pattern you're working from, so I don't know what the end purpose of any particular bit may be.
  8. I've used an old plastic oil jug half filled with wet sand inside the base of the dummy. It's a little difficult to tell with the low res pics but I don't see any mistakes in the weave offhand. Keep a comfortable size for the armhole, maybe the height of the base or the shoulder blade. It's pretty easy to add a row later if you need. Don't make the front panel too wide or it'll bunch up uncomfortably during normal arm motions, back panel should always be wider than the front so the armholes face forward slightly.
  9. You're definitely overthinking how to go about the process, it's a learning process and involves making mistakes. It's far more important to just dig into it. Most of the weaves I've made started out as mistakes. As always the potential in being self taught is having a fresh perspective to make new discoveries from and the pitfall is becoming stuck in your ways and not learning from the discoveries of others. The 45 degree seam does just join two identical weaves that are rotated at 90 degrees to each other.
  10. When I've worked with split rings in the past I make the neckline first and hang it on a dummy inside out then I build down from there, the dummy goes on a turntable so I can rotate it easily and the turntable is propped up to a comfortable working height on a stack of books. If you're using a duct tape dummy of the person you want to build the costume for this is going to be by far the fastest and easiest way. For working on the go I just make a piece without using any devices to stabilize the shape, once you get used to the weave you don't really need them. Diamond shapes are also easier to manipulate than rectangles so I tend to build with those whenever possible. When the piece gets too large to be easily portable, just pin it onto the dummy and seam them together. That way I can work anywhere, all I need is a ziploc bag of rings and one of scales that I can keep in a coat pocket, if you have a daily commute this would be perfect for making it more productive. I used to work on it during lunch and coffee breaks back when I had a real job.
  11. 10x is an average vs. butted rings in the same size and material, split rings are usually 2-3x. There is no way to un-weld but it's pretty quick to cut and replace, usually I cut out split rings when I'm doing alterations too, my time is worth more than the rings. If you can solder there is another option to reduce scratching, just get some thin brass wire from the hardware store and hard solder a dab of brass onto the end of the split ring that faces the wearer. It's almost as strong as welding too but it takes some time. Borax and water works for flux and a butane or propane torch will put out enough heat but a soldering iron won't. It's a pretty good job, I'm not complaining but anything can become a grind and you do lose some enjoyment when you have to do actual production line stuff instead of working on interesting projects. A lot of people who get into mailling are also on the spectrum, I won't get into names since that can be personal and private info but you might be surprised how common it is. Anyways if you want any more advice I'll be around, just holler. I generally check in once a week or so.
  12. Okay, costuming for stunt work is actually very tricky. You're right to stick with aluminum or titanium scales to keep the weight down and it is best to use strong rings to prevent constant repairs. On the other hand if wearing the armour scratches up the actors it's a very bad thing, most production companies I've worked with are very careful about anything that could affect the look or health of the actors. I'm going to reiterate my recommendation to use welded rings, if you're going to try to do this professionally then you should really make quality products and welding is faster than using split rings. I've lived in apartments myself and done a lot of ring welding in there, the equipment is not too bulky, about the size of a briefcase. Just covering the immediate floor and worktable with 1/4" plywood will prevent any burn marks on flooring or furniture and in the sizes we work in there's no real noise, flash or fumes, your landlord never even needs to know because it's none of his business. Buy one of these things, they're cheap, reliable and plug into a standard outlet. https://www.harborfreight.com/120v-spot-welder-61205.html Replace the tongs with some battery cables and set the electrodes up the way you see in this old video I made for TRL. Since you work with audio equipment this should be pretty basic for you, it's super low voltage and everything you need can be bought at any hardware store. In the video I've also replaced the switch with a timed relay and foot pedal but you don't need to. With a little practice and you can judge the timing right by eye 95% of the time. It's really that simple and you'll be able to use any butted stainless rings and weld them for 10x the strength.
  13. I'm not sure what type of fighting you mean but if there's any impact involved like with the SCA then aluminum scales are just going to get mangled up anyways. Steel or titanium are the only real choices for durability in that sort of situation. Aluminum is good for LARP or light contact fencing mostly. Worthco split rings are made for fishing lure manufacturers, they don't have much interest or experience with what we do but they do make the best split rings. From experience I can tell you that the #3F size work best with small scales and the zinc plated steel is the strongest material they carry. For medium size scales use a #5F and for large ones a #7F. The best way I've found to get a good fit on another person is to use a duct tape dummy, there are lots of tutorials to learn how to make one and it's a pretty quick and easy process. Contractions are used to make a piece look form fitting around musculature or other parts of anatomy. Here's a picture highlighting the contractions in my first vest. It's probably not something that you need to worry too much about since for fighting gear you'll want to avoid form fitting and leave extra room for movement. You should be able to do any technique with split rings, it just might be a little harder to get the rings in there. My best advice would be to search the forum for my old posts about scales, I've been helping people with similar projects for 20 years on this forum and there's a lot of good info buried in there.
  14. You're killing me here, titanium scales and split rings is like buying a bottle of 30 year old scotch and mixing it with mountain dew. Mountain dew should only be mixed with the finest moonshine, as is traditional. I highly recommend welded stainless rings for Ti scale armour or grade 5 Ti butted rings for costume use. At the very least you should buy better quality split rings from Worthco.com , the #3 fine are the size I originally designed the small scales to work with. They're lighter, stronger, and easier to work with. Progress wise you're doing fine, it always takes a while in the beginning. My first scale shirt with split rings took almost 10 months, of course I had to punch out the scales too but most of that time was figuring out the weaves.
  15. Almost forgot, if you do stay with the split rings there's no proper orientation, it just doesn't matter. There's really no need to use pliers either, I always use the edge of the scale to wedge open the split ring and then slide them on. It can be a little difficult until your fingertips toughen up but it's way faster and helps prevent deforming the split rings open. You could also grind down the beak on the split ring pliers so it's a thinner wedge which makes them work a lot better in my experience.