Jump to content

lorenzo

Members
  • Content Count

    970
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    40

Everything posted by lorenzo

  1. lorenzo

    Scale concerns

    I just noticed this issue on some of the stock that we have, it's definitely not just a burr and much worse than I'd thought. A de-burring tool won't work but I've had some success using a countersink with a rotary tool to fix the issue. Glad to hear that the tooling is fixed though.
  2. lorenzo

    the elusive maille wall clock

    Great idea, and good to see that you're still finishing up projects. I've still got a boatload of them from 10+ years ago that have never got done.
  3. lorenzo

    Links to pictures of mail armor.

    Fantastic galleries, thank you very much.
  4. lorenzo

    Scale concerns

    This seems like a relatively minor issue to me but then again I don't use TRL's split rings so that may be the difference there. My unofficial guesstimate is that there may be clearance issues with the die. My company will soon be buying a machine to fix those type of problems and we'll definitely share it with TRL if that's that case. To deburr the scales you currently have I'd suggest using one of these, for about $3.50 it will definitely save your hands some wear and tear. http://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-Deburring-Tool-T090/100166541#
  5. lorenzo

    breaking titanium rings

    Sounds like you're exceeding the minimum bend radius in that part of the ring. The only way to consistently keep the rings from fracturing is to anneal or normalize them to reduce the internal stresses. Barring that you'll just have to reduce the amount that you're opening them.
  6. It would have to be very low stress to work on engine parts, shot peening wouldn't work out for that sort of thing since it can deform corners and edges. Is it purely a mechanical finish or is there an electrochemical aspect to it as well? Will stainless steel be passivated by the process or does it need an additional step later?
  7. My understanding was that superfinishing was a lapping process and not really suited for bulk processing, obviously that can't be correct. Can you give me an idea of what type of process this actually is?
  8. lorenzo

    Scales and powder residue

    I hate to break it to you but galvanized is more or less un-cleanable. It's designed to oxidize to keep the steel from rusting so it will always continue to shed a grayish oxide, in fact the entire piece will eventually turn sort of a powdery grey color.
  9. lorenzo

    One heck of a purse

    Thanks, looks great. I think my wife wants one.
  10. lorenzo

    Clear + Black Polycarbonate Scales

    Yeah, I could try a bigger hammer but I think they'll do just fine for boffers unless the people you play with are total jerks.
  11. lorenzo

    Clear + Black Polycarbonate Scales

    I just took a small test patch into the shop, put it on the anvil and hit it with a 12oz. hammer. There are slight marks where the wire dug into the back of the scales but no major deformation of the scales.
  12. lorenzo

    38h!!!!!!!!!!

    My experience has been that for larger busts the best course of action is do do multiple fittings. Start with a basic pattern then use twist ties to simulate darts or contractions on the model and to mark the spots where you want to make changes. Be sure to make a drawing and take plenty of notes. Picture are also very helpful if the customer doesn't mind.
  13. lorenzo

    Clear + Black Polycarbonate Scales

    The literature indicates that there would be some sort of reaction between the two but I have no idea what the exact results would be so you'll have to test it.
  14. lorenzo

    Clear + Black Polycarbonate Scales

    Painting the back of the scales is definitely the way to go. The clear scales are quite clear but they're also slightly textured which shouldn't really be a problem. Unfortunately isopropyl alcohol won't work at all, you'll need something like acetone or preferably dichloromethane to dye PC.
  15. lorenzo

    Clear + Black Polycarbonate Scales

    I have the design for large and medium sized scales ready to go. All you guys need to do is create enough demand and TRL will probably decide to start offering them. Micro scales are going to be a little bit trickier, the small scales are already pushing the limits of how small we can make these. I'd give it about 50/50 as to whether micro scales are feasible even if there is enough demand.
  16. lorenzo

    Clear + Black Polycarbonate Scales

    Injection moulded. They are 1mm thick in the center of the scale and 0.6mm at the edges. Like any polycarbonate the toughness is very high. They should be stronger than any non-welded ring.The hole area is also reinforced to 1mm thick. Thank you, that was my intention and it worked out very well. We haven't discussed applying this change to the metal scales but now that you mention it I don't see any reason that we couldn't. We would likely be waiting for the tooling to wear out first which could take quite a few years. I'll discuss this further with Jon and see what the exact situation is, but don't hold your breath.
  17. Sorry, that was pretty vague in retrospect. It's simpler to buy PC paint unless the exact color or effect you're looking for is only available for PMMA. If your acrylic paint of choice is a dichloromethane/dichloroethane base then you're already good to go with polycarbonate. Acrylic only paint can work if you just switch out the solvent. If your paint has a different solvent base then you'll need to buy some dichloromethane to mix it with. When mixing the paint with dichloromethane you should first mark the level on the outside of the paint container and then leave it open to the air and stir it occasionally so that a good portion of the solvent evaporates. You want it to get thick and syrupy but it's best not to let it gel. Once it's evaporated most of the acetone/solvent just top it up to the line you marked earlier with dichloromethane and mix it in real good, you should be ready to go. There's likely still going to be some residual acetone in the paint but it won't harm your PC as long as you don't put any strain on it before the acetone evaporates. Here's a good video showing how it works. If your PC parts have residual strains in them from the moulding process then you need to anneal them first before you paint. To check if they have residual stresses in them just look at them in bright light through a polarized lens, if you see a strong rainbow effect then it's likely that they have residual stresses. Annealing is a simple matter of putting them in your oven for 30 minutes at 250F then letting them air cool. Just let me know if you have any other questions.
  18. That's pretty cool looking. This type of product isn't really my thing but I've done some experimenting with acrylic already. A surprising amount of armour in the Hobbit movies was made this way. You should be able to buy acrylic sheets down to 1/16" thick from stock, maybe 1/32". I wouldn't go any thinner than 1/32" anyways, you can do the cutting yourself with stencils and a hot knife pretty easily at that thickness. Forming with a heat gun should be relatively simple too. PMMA(acrylic) and PC have similarly low fluorescent properties so I'd guess that the uv reactivity comes largely from the pigment used to colour them. As a general rule you can use the same coloring methods for the two types of plastic, but you might need to add a different solvent for the PC. There shouldn't be any issues with using most acrylic paints and dyes on the new PC scales.
  19. 1. 18g 1/4" should be sufficient as long as the stainless is about 1/4 hard, if you're buying annealed stainless from the hardware store you might have problems. 2. 22g 5/32" is only practical in welded rings. I can easily tear a shirt made of unwelded rings apart with my fingers in that size, no matter how strong the metal is. You should probably check out our machine made chainmail, it's welded stainless and the medium mesh size is approx 22g 5/32". It's generally the only cost effective way of making costumes with small, delicate looking rings. Link is in my sig.
  20. lorenzo

    Beginner and pliers dilemma

    There are definitely some "wrong" ways, no doubt that some people use them with okay results but holding a ring at the center with two pairs of needle nose pliers will always be a poorer technique than almost everything else. The best technique I've found is to use pliers angled away from you and towards each other, grip the ring at about 10 and 2(9 and 3 is also fine). Pliers should have short jaws that are wide enough to give a sure grip and comfortable grips. There are a lot of other tweaks you can do to improve your pliers, check out some of the ones that Zili and myself have modded over on the Mail Artisans website.
  21. lorenzo

    Plastic Rings: Which is best and strongest

    The clear rings would be strongest as long as you follow the heat treating instructions in your oven after you assemble the shirt.
  22. lorenzo

    Scale Mail issues

    See the following thread for a guide that will explain advanced techniques with scales. http://www.theringlord.org/forum/index.php?/topic/12033-the-old-scale-guide-has-been-updatedfinally/
  23. lorenzo

    The old scale guide has been updated...finally.

    Looks good, the content is what's important. You'll need to update it again though, I know I keep saying this but I do intend to reveal my new shoulder design when I get the chance.
  24. The beetle wings do look awesome, you can buy them pretty cheaply on e-bay if you'd like to try it yourself.
  25. lorenzo

    chainmail metal

    It depends on the alloy and temper, without that information no one can give you an accurate answer. If you're referring only to the material that TRL sells then there's an entire page of information about each type of metal at the following link. http://theringlord.com/cart/shopcontent.asp?type=materialsdata
×