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lorenzo

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Posts posted by lorenzo


  1. That definitely looks cleaner. I'm not a big fan of having a seam running the full breadth of the shoulder though, I much prefer to have only one or two reinforced connection points. Anyways I'm glad you found a style that works for you.

    Good luck with your mission, I did some work for NASA on the Mars InSight mission and I've never had to deal with such brutal deadlines before or since. Don't get me wrong, I'm glad for the experience but I might have to charge more if there's a next time.


  2. On 11/4/2019 at 6:44 PM, Bladeturner said:

    I guess I'm a little unclear on how to attach the front and back pieces.  they are going in opposite directions.  I thought the whole purpose of the shoulder piece is top make that connection.  

    That's not really their purpose, a scale shirt should essentially be a sleeveless vest with sleeves added on. I haven't made a scale shirt with 45 degree seams for many years but here's how the last one looked.

     


  3. The problem you're having is that the front and back panels aren't connected together directly. Since they connect through the shoulder panels the weight of them pulls everything out of shape. Connect the top scales of the chest and back end to end and then build the shoulders off to the side of that.


  4. IIRC they were 1020 steel but it's been a long time since I made those. I'm guessing the tongs we designed to work with them sold out long ago. We made the drifting tool out of HSS drill blanks. Keep the piercing tip hard and draw the shank back to a blue color to prevent breakage. The piercing tongs needed about a 6:1 mechanical advantage to work easily.


  5. Take a good pair of heavy duty pliers and shorten the jaws to the minimum you need for your largest rings to get better leverage. A decent hacksaw should do the trick. Grind the surface of the jaws smooth, parallel and smooth any sharp edges.  Any rotary tool should work fine to accomplish that.

    I like to modify the Knipex 20-160 pliers this way for larger rings. Here's a picture of my first set that are still going strong a decade later.

    http://www.mailleartisans.org/gallery/gallerydisplay.php?key=5515

    For smaller rings you can do essentially the same mods to a smaller pair of pliers like the Knipex 35-12-115.


  6. 7 hours ago, Jaxadus said:

    I'm having trouble picturing how these pieces make a vest. If I do something like whats in this picture, there will be a seam at the top of the shoulders, here scales will be pointing in opposite directions. Thats not something I really want to be visable, so is there a weave that does away with that? 

    Those are just the shoulder pieces and they do exactly what you're asking for. I don't have time to make a tutorial but there are a bunch of pictures of a piece in process and the finished results at the following link.

    https://www.facebook.com/pg/MailleTec-Industries-Inc-133364950086038/photos/?tab=album&album_id=760886937333833

     


  7. You can get elastic cord from most fabric suppliers that will work okay but not great. The only other practical solution I've found is to arrange the scales exactly how you want them and then paint the backside of the mesh with urethane rubber or something similar.

    As Rob mentioned the best solution is to avoid straight horizontal edges entirely.


  8. I just double checked the status of your e-mail, it went to our order desk instead of myself personally which caused a bit of delay. I just wanted to let you know that it didn't fall through the cracks and we'll get a reply sent out to you very shortly.


  9. If you buy wire instead of rings then shining it up is pretty easy, just pull the wire through some fine grit sand papers. Loose rings also tumble up sort of okay with steel shot in a rotary tumbler, they'll stay dull on the interior half. Run it with citric acid and detergent afterwards to remove iron contaminating the titanium surface. Alternatively you could also make titanium pin shot from wire. It works pretty well.

    Once the rings are woven they just won't move freely against each other due to the rough surfaces and tight weaves so tumbling is a no go at that point.

     


  10. Hey Jamison, since nickel silver was originally developed to counterfeit Sterling silver it has a very similar appearance even when tarnished. If Sterling is out of your price range you might also consider silver filled or plated wire which is widely available.


  11. Unfortunately titanium is normally acid etched at the mill after being drawn, this leaves it with a dull grey surface. The etching is very deep and can't be easily removed once the wire is made into rings.

    My best advice is to consider doing a subtle inlay or just randomize the new and old rings.


  12. My preference would be for the 1.25mm unless the wire is very soft, in which case the 1.6mm would hold up better at the cost of extra weight. I scanned the Merriway listings but didn't see the temper of the wire anywhere. It would be prudent to call them looking for more info or just get a small coil of each for testing first.

    I wouldn't recommend the 8-2 weave with butted galvy rings in any case, 4-1 will get you better results for less work IMO.


  13. On 4/29/2019 at 10:56 AM, Todd Feinman said:

    Mountain Pattern solved.:

     

    Seriously? I mean it's a decent looking bit of lamellar, but are you really so egotistical as to believe that you've solved this mystery?

    Your results barely even resemble the historical records and you have no archaeological evidence. This is nothing more than another guess and not a very good one at that.

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