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lorenzo

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Posts posted by lorenzo


  1. I would suggest brazing the copper wire on with a bit of brass or silver solder and use borax as flux, that should make it stick. You'd need to use a torch as your heat source instead of a soldering iron.

    You could also try to use your jewelry welder to weld a small bolt onto the pliers. It would probably take multiple welds to get a decent electrical connection though. Brazing is likely a better method.


  2. As long as it's soldered it won't deform under it's own weight. However it may deform as a result of strain from movement.

    Please post the ring sizes, the design, the temper of the wire and the relevant measurements for your wife if you want a more specific answer.


  3. Hi Lunitari, sorry about the late reply I don't check this forum often. The connector you're looking for should be a GX12-2.

    https://www.amazon.com/Aviation-GX12-2-Female-panel-Connector/dp/B06ZZ5NJ65

    As far as the welds go you do need argon for this type of welding with titanium and you're on the right track with a solenoid valve.

    It will also be helpful to have a laminar flow device and a cup to hold the argon around the weld area. Those will allow you to get good welds with a low flow rate and keep your gas usage to a minimum. I find it convenient to adapt TIG welding accessories for this type of setup.

    Be sure to set your gas nozzle pointing upwards, this will keep the argon from draining out under gravity between welds and you won't need to use as much gas to purge the lines each time.


  4. That definitely looks cleaner. I'm not a big fan of having a seam running the full breadth of the shoulder though, I much prefer to have only one or two reinforced connection points. Anyways I'm glad you found a style that works for you.

    Good luck with your mission, I did some work for NASA on the Mars InSight mission and I've never had to deal with such brutal deadlines before or since. Don't get me wrong, I'm glad for the experience but I might have to charge more if there's a next time.


  5. On 11/4/2019 at 6:44 PM, Bladeturner said:

    I guess I'm a little unclear on how to attach the front and back pieces.  they are going in opposite directions.  I thought the whole purpose of the shoulder piece is top make that connection.  

    That's not really their purpose, a scale shirt should essentially be a sleeveless vest with sleeves added on. I haven't made a scale shirt with 45 degree seams for many years but here's how the last one looked.

     


  6. The problem you're having is that the front and back panels aren't connected together directly. Since they connect through the shoulder panels the weight of them pulls everything out of shape. Connect the top scales of the chest and back end to end and then build the shoulders off to the side of that.


  7. IIRC they were 1020 steel but it's been a long time since I made those. I'm guessing the tongs we designed to work with them sold out long ago. We made the drifting tool out of HSS drill blanks. Keep the piercing tip hard and draw the shank back to a blue color to prevent breakage. The piercing tongs needed about a 6:1 mechanical advantage to work easily.


  8. Take a good pair of heavy duty pliers and shorten the jaws to the minimum you need for your largest rings to get better leverage. A decent hacksaw should do the trick. Grind the surface of the jaws smooth, parallel and smooth any sharp edges.  Any rotary tool should work fine to accomplish that.

    I like to modify the Knipex 20-160 pliers this way for larger rings. Here's a picture of my first set that are still going strong a decade later.

    http://www.mailleartisans.org/gallery/gallerydisplay.php?key=5515

    For smaller rings you can do essentially the same mods to a smaller pair of pliers like the Knipex 35-12-115.


  9. 7 hours ago, Jaxadus said:

    I'm having trouble picturing how these pieces make a vest. If I do something like whats in this picture, there will be a seam at the top of the shoulders, here scales will be pointing in opposite directions. Thats not something I really want to be visable, so is there a weave that does away with that? 

    Those are just the shoulder pieces and they do exactly what you're asking for. I don't have time to make a tutorial but there are a bunch of pictures of a piece in process and the finished results at the following link.

    https://www.facebook.com/pg/MailleTec-Industries-Inc-133364950086038/photos/?tab=album&album_id=760886937333833

     


  10. You can get elastic cord from most fabric suppliers that will work okay but not great. The only other practical solution I've found is to arrange the scales exactly how you want them and then paint the backside of the mesh with urethane rubber or something similar.

    As Rob mentioned the best solution is to avoid straight horizontal edges entirely.


  11. I just double checked the status of your e-mail, it went to our order desk instead of myself personally which caused a bit of delay. I just wanted to let you know that it didn't fall through the cracks and we'll get a reply sent out to you very shortly.


  12. If you buy wire instead of rings then shining it up is pretty easy, just pull the wire through some fine grit sand papers. Loose rings also tumble up sort of okay with steel shot in a rotary tumbler, they'll stay dull on the interior half. Run it with citric acid and detergent afterwards to remove iron contaminating the titanium surface. Alternatively you could also make titanium pin shot from wire. It works pretty well.

    Once the rings are woven they just won't move freely against each other due to the rough surfaces and tight weaves so tumbling is a no go at that point.

     

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