lorenzo
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Posts posted by lorenzo
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Just a note regarding your ring size, you didn't specify SWG or AWG but it could be pretty tight for functional sleeves. Most historical pieces would have thicker rings covering the chest and thinner ones for the sleeves and skirts.
Rob MacLennan reacted to this -
That ring size is going to be pretty strong, as long as it's loose fitting and non-supportive I don't foresee any issues. On the other hand, it's going to be much heavier than the 8-9 oz you originally posted.
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As long as it's soldered it won't deform under it's own weight. However it may deform as a result of strain from movement.
Please post the ring sizes, the design, the temper of the wire and the relevant measurements for your wife if you want a more specific answer.
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Hi Lunitari, sorry about the late reply I don't check this forum often. The connector you're looking for should be a GX12-2.
https://www.amazon.com/Aviation-GX12-2-Female-panel-Connector/dp/B06ZZ5NJ65
As far as the welds go you do need argon for this type of welding with titanium and you're on the right track with a solenoid valve.
It will also be helpful to have a laminar flow device and a cup to hold the argon around the weld area. Those will allow you to get good welds with a low flow rate and keep your gas usage to a minimum. I find it convenient to adapt TIG welding accessories for this type of setup.
Be sure to set your gas nozzle pointing upwards, this will keep the argon from draining out under gravity between welds and you won't need to use as much gas to purge the lines each time.
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Hi Fenris, putting together the resistance welder kits was a lot of work for me and once we started MailleTec I just didn't have the time anymore. As far as I know there isn't anything comparable being sold anywhere but if you get in touch with me at MailleTec I can help you to build something similar.
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That definitely looks cleaner. I'm not a big fan of having a seam running the full breadth of the shoulder though, I much prefer to have only one or two reinforced connection points. Anyways I'm glad you found a style that works for you.
Good luck with your mission, I did some work for NASA on the Mars InSight mission and I've never had to deal with such brutal deadlines before or since. Don't get me wrong, I'm glad for the experience but I might have to charge more if there's a next time.
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On 11/4/2019 at 6:44 PM, Bladeturner said:I guess I'm a little unclear on how to attach the front and back pieces. they are going in opposite directions. I thought the whole purpose of the shoulder piece is top make that connection.
That's not really their purpose, a scale shirt should essentially be a sleeveless vest with sleeves added on. I haven't made a scale shirt with 45 degree seams for many years but here's how the last one looked.
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The problem you're having is that the front and back panels aren't connected together directly. Since they connect through the shoulder panels the weight of them pulls everything out of shape. Connect the top scales of the chest and back end to end and then build the shoulders off to the side of that.
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Thank you, all the nonsense posts were irritating me. I guess I'm just a crotchety old man now.
Rob MacLennan reacted to this -
I mean, this guy is obviously a bot. Right? Are there no active moderators left here?
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IIRC they were 1020 steel but it's been a long time since I made those. I'm guessing the tongs we designed to work with them sold out long ago. We made the drifting tool out of HSS drill blanks. Keep the piercing tip hard and draw the shank back to a blue color to prevent breakage. The piercing tongs needed about a 6:1 mechanical advantage to work easily.
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Also, you might want to have some sort of contact info if you expect potential buyers to be able to get in touch with you.
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Take a good pair of heavy duty pliers and shorten the jaws to the minimum you need for your largest rings to get better leverage. A decent hacksaw should do the trick. Grind the surface of the jaws smooth, parallel and smooth any sharp edges. Any rotary tool should work fine to accomplish that.
I like to modify the Knipex 20-160 pliers this way for larger rings. Here's a picture of my first set that are still going strong a decade later.
http://www.mailleartisans.org/gallery/gallerydisplay.php?key=5515
For smaller rings you can do essentially the same mods to a smaller pair of pliers like the Knipex 35-12-115.
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That's a bit tricky, electroplating is the best solution if you're up to it. Silver or gold being the most popular choices.
You can kind of get a clear coat plastic to stick to finished chains if you do it just right but it's not ideal.
Renaissance wax is a good solution but needs to be re-applied periodically.
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I would suggest using leather for the straps, you can rivet the scales onto that. Straps made of scale material aren't, as a general rule, practical or comfortable.
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7 hours ago, Jaxadus said:I'm having trouble picturing how these pieces make a vest. If I do something like whats in this picture, there will be a seam at the top of the shoulders, here scales will be pointing in opposite directions. Thats not something I really want to be visable, so is there a weave that does away with that?
Those are just the shoulder pieces and they do exactly what you're asking for. I don't have time to make a tutorial but there are a bunch of pictures of a piece in process and the finished results at the following link.
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This is how I do the seams on my scale pieces. As Konstantin mentioned seams aren't really required for maille vests, they serve more of a decorative function.
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You can get elastic cord from most fabric suppliers that will work okay but not great. The only other practical solution I've found is to arrange the scales exactly how you want them and then paint the backside of the mesh with urethane rubber or something similar.
As Rob mentioned the best solution is to avoid straight horizontal edges entirely.
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I just double checked the status of your e-mail, it went to our order desk instead of myself personally which caused a bit of delay. I just wanted to let you know that it didn't fall through the cracks and we'll get a reply sent out to you very shortly.
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I'm not sure what to do about the attachments issue but you could try using an offsite image hosting service.
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http://www.mailletec.com/content/medium-mesh-shirt
This is the standard shirt that we sell, it's stab resistant but not stab proof, there's really no such thing as stab proof. These shirts are about twice as strong and somewhat heavier than the stuff used for sharksuits etc. We also sell the lighter stuff but it would need to be a custom order and I don't recommend it for your purposes.
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Same, I don't see a picture. Tumbling is likely good advice for the mail shirt although with a small AR it might not have much effect. For the scale shirt and tie I would want to have a good look at them before making a recommendation.
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If you buy wire instead of rings then shining it up is pretty easy, just pull the wire through some fine grit sand papers. Loose rings also tumble up sort of okay with steel shot in a rotary tumbler, they'll stay dull on the interior half. Run it with citric acid and detergent afterwards to remove iron contaminating the titanium surface. Alternatively you could also make titanium pin shot from wire. It works pretty well.
Once the rings are woven they just won't move freely against each other due to the rough surfaces and tight weaves so tumbling is a no go at that point.
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I've found heat shrink tubing to be a better solution than any other coating option. For myself I just smooth out the plier faces with some sandpaper and don't grip too tightly.
Rob MacLennan reacted to this
best way to connect armorerers pliars with the welder?
in General Questions
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I would suggest brazing the copper wire on with a bit of brass or silver solder and use borax as flux, that should make it stick. You'd need to use a torch as your heat source instead of a soldering iron.
You could also try to use your jewelry welder to weld a small bolt onto the pliers. It would probably take multiple welds to get a decent electrical connection though. Brazing is likely a better method.