Jump to content

lorenzo

Members
  • Content Count

    998
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    50

Posts posted by lorenzo


  1. Any wire made for jewelry that is supposed to be pure platinum is actually 95/5 platinum iridium alloy. Use an 80/20 platinum iridium alloy instead it's about 100Ksi annealed, harder than stainless. 90/10 is a common alloy for jewelry grade wire at about 55Ksi it's still decently strong. And platinum does work harden fast. Also you can fuse the ends of the ring together for greater strength.


  2. You obviously have unresolved feelings for this girl, get your own head straight about it or you're no good as a friend to her anyways. Once you manage to sort your own problem out you'll be in better shape to help her with hers, if she needs it. She has to live her own life and make her own mistakes, just take care of yourself and your own interests. You could even try talking to her about it.


  3. If you buy a grade 1 or grade 2 C.P. Titanium it should be soft enough for you to work with easily. As far as finding the wire goes, it would be much more expensive to buy in small quantities, your customer has to be willing to pay extra for it. I'm sure TRL could help you find a deal on some. You will probably need to saw cut the rings to get decent closures, that won't be fun.

    It's definitely doable in titanium, but it'll be harder to do, more expensive, require better tools and take more time.


  4. Uh oh. Sounds like you've got the dreaded "vista hangs on crcdisk.sys" issue. Do a google search for possible solutions. It happens a lot, basically vista can't read your hard drive for some reason, could be another operating system interfering or a driver conflict. Maybe you just installed a new program with bad drivers or added some ram, lots of things can cause it. Depending on the cause sometimes its easy to fix, sometimes you need a complete reinstall. I needed a complete reinstall and a new harddrive when it happened to me, luckily I could boot into windows XP and save all my data.


  5. It is possible, I could probably do a hauberk if I wanted to devote the entire weekend to it.

    You say you're comfortable woking at around 600 rings per hour, ok then. You probably also weigh less than the 180 lbs the kits are made for.

    Based on that;

    If you bought the costume kit then I say yes.

    If you bought the armor kit, maybe.

    Clothing kit, not a hope.

    Good luck and let us know how it goes.


  6. Experience is mostly needed for real armor, precisely formed and made out of heavy guage ferrous metals.

    Get a ball peen hammer, a block of wood, A variety of punches and swages and a sheet of soft metal. Aluminum and copper flashing are probably available at your local hardware store. With a little talent and luck you should be able to hammer out a set in less than a day.


  7. At TRL Jon tries to buy scrap when he can, because it is less expensive it helps us keep our prices competitive. However it's pretty difficult to ensure that you are getting a consistent high quality product. Actually it's pretty difficult to ensure that even with our new materials.

    Personally I have bought a lot of scrap in the past, I've used some, traded some and given lots away. I tend to avoid it now since I generally only want small amounts of high quality material.


  8. When plants close down usually all the stainless steel equipment is just thrown in a pile for the scrapyard. Most plants also have a maintenance/fabrication shop where stainless steel sheet metal is welded up into tables, chutes, vats or whatever. I once picked up 100 pounds of 14g 316L wire(painted blue for some unknown reason) and several hundred 3 foot lengths of 24g spring stainless from an old dairy.


  9. It seems to me that there are rows of coils kinda laced together (like you can lace your fingers) and held in place with wire running through the center of them.

    If you check the pictures that I linked to you will see that there are both types of weave shown there. In fact there are several more styles as well. It all amounts to essentially the same thing since the wires link in exactly the same way as an extra coil would, it only looks slightly different because it's straight.


  10. It's very nice handiwork, but she by no means invented it. This has been done for hundreds of years and is currently done on a production scale for jewelry and industrial applications. I can almost guarantee that everyone here has seen it before without even realizing what it is.

    http://www.sieving-mesh.com/en_wiremesh/conveyer-belt.htm

    http://www.globalwirenetting.com/ChainLinkFence.htm

    http://www.wilsonindustries.com/safety-mesh_shields.htm

    http://www.watchband.biz/pi1089327654.htm


  11. i'm trying to find some sort of setup that can coil springs (16 G stainless or alum) to essentially endless lengths. rather than be limited by the length of the rod.

    We use those sort of setups at work, they weigh about a ton and have a price tag with 4 zeros at the end. Unless you plan on selling millions of rings a drill is much more cost effective and just as fast.


  12. Here's a quick picture of a belt I made for a professional wrestling group recently. I did everything except the laser etching on the plate, I am much too lazy to engrave spring stainless by hand. The laurels on each side are made with TRL Gen 1 scales riveted to the leather. The dragons are tooled into the leather and then painted with gold and silver leaf.

    This was basically just a starter project for me to learn leather working and I made quite a few mistakes. I'm torn between trying boots or armour next.

    n672615536_4133460_5920.jpg


  13. I appreciate your advice, but I've already put too much work into this to be restarting. I don't have the time to work on armor very often and this is only my second piece. But I'm wondering if maybe you think I'm using something different than what I am, because I'm not seeing what your saying.

    Try to see my point of view here for just a second. I designed this type of armor, I've been experimenting and working with it for 5 years, I also personally made both the scales and the split rings that you're using. My position is that since you're using the best and most expensive scales we make, you might as well use them to their full potential. The scales were designed for high end armor and jewelry, the rings are for munitions grade stuff.

    I know this armor you're making already, and it's good stuff, but it has the potential to be even better. The details make a huge difference.

    All the split rings will be visible along the edge, replacing the edge rings with anodized 18g 3/16" Ti will make them blend in.

    Using coined fine splitrings with an ID of ~.2" instead of ~.19" and a wire diameter of .025" instead of .030" would knock ~5% off of the weight and use less scales per area. It would also give ~5% more stretch for a better fit but not so much that the rings would show.

    The rings you're using should be comfortable enough to wear around all day with a medium weight shirt underneath, with welded rings you could wear it against bare skin comfortably.

    I agree that the added strength is probably not an issue unless you take a spear or arrow in the chest.

    I'm probably something of a perfectionist so this might not be a big issue for you, the armor will look great regardless and still perform well.


  14. The part I don't follow is what you mean by saying that a disc is 6 expansions. Wouldn't the number of expansion rings in a row to produce a desired shape depend on the number of normal rings in that row?

    Yep, I know it sounds counter intuitive but 6 rings is the most you need per row. Anything more is just extra weight and mess.

    That brings me back to my original question, whether there's a historically documented way of distributing the expansion links across the width of the piece to create the smoothest possible curve and overall texture.

    Every piece is different. They were made to shape, to fit whoever was to wear the piece. There isn't any standard pattern. Evenly dispersing the expansions throughout makes them least visible but then the piece is a simple cone, not fitted to the wearer. It is the process of shaping the piece to the wearer that should determine where expansions go. That should give the best fit and consequently have the smoothest look. Using larger aspect ratio rings is the best trick for making it look smooth, they give you more stretch and make the piece more form fitting. Hope this helps.

×