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Posts posted by lorenzo

  1. Don't try to close the maille onto the pen, that'll bring nothing but tears. Make the maille first and then slip it onto the pen barrel, doing it on the bias is probably the best idea. Give it a coat of epoxy after it's perfectly fitted and positioned to hold it in place and keep the rings from opening up.

  2. Actually I'm just looking for the technique that people use to manipulate the rings with the pliers. I don't need any help with weaving them but thank you for the effort.

    For clarification, I would like to know details of how various people pick up the ring, open the ring with the pliers and grip the ring as it is rotated. I am interested in understanding this from the point of view of ergonomics and efficiency. Also any input from lefties would be most valuable, I'm wondering if my difficulty is mainly a parity thing.

  3. I just recently started doing a project with some split rings in it, after several years of not really using them.

    It's always bothered me that everyone else but me seems to find using the pliers more convenient, so I had another go at using them but I really can't get the hang of it. Could someone who uses these please describe or graphically demonstrate to me how these are supposed to be utilized?

  4. My only qualm with that is that in certain cases, I've found batches of TRL rings of the same type and size to have (noticably) different measurements. Of course, the only rings I purchase from TRL are ones I can't (easily) manufacture myself, which includes mostly just anodized aluminum and EC. I fell victim to getting a small amount of the ~.223" ID 3/16", .062" rings in blue, which should have had an ID of .203" (it was later changed on TRL website for the blue and red, and now states that they are .22" ID). That's over 1/64" difference. I'm sure these instances are very rare, as this is the only time I've noticed a major difference from what I was expecting. I can't get consistent wire width readouts on the anodized rings either, due likely to the anodization layer. I've gotten anything from .062" - .065" with said rings. Not that that's a huge deal, as it could always be averaged out. Also because the base metals would always be consistent, and the EC. But I can certainly see your suggestion being useful to some.

    I see your point, most machine made rings at TRL are -+5 thou, but we do occasionally get a batch that are out of spec. The sizes also tend to change when we get material from manufacturers with different tensile strengths and hardnesses. Aluminum is extra problematic due to it being so soft that the wire can be deformed in the process And galling against the tooling.

  5. This is what I started thinking about last night, in fact you shouldn't even need to drop the voltage. The extra 20 volts won't hurt anything it's even possibly beneficial for getting grey anodizing on grade 5.

    What I meant by this is that I don't even think a variac is necessary. To make the most basic anodizer I can imagine would just be mains power(gfci plug), rectified(bridge) and smoothed(capacitor) with a current limiter(resistor). The output should be <~120v DC at a set amperage. Does that make sense? Am I missing anything?

    Well I'm kinda burning out on this project, I already have a good anodizer that I never even use, because I have access to an awesome one at TRL anytime I want. So yeah, call me spoiled but I'm only willing to go so far for other peoples projects and buying lots of parts and prototyping for them is where I draw the line. :)

  6. How much does a beefy bridge rectifier cost? With a variable transformer and a bridge rectifier, it shouldn't be too hard to drop 120 to 100ish, then rectify it to DC...

    This is what I started thinking about last night, in fact you shouldn't even need to drop the voltage. The extra 20 volts won't hurt anything it's even possibly beneficial for getting grey anodizing on grade 5.

    I think the basic functionality is just rectify the current, limit the amperage, smooth the output. You maybe don't even need a variable voltage if it's possible to just use dip anodizing. that would depend on how quickly this setup anodizes.

  7. There are two problems with the Mr. Titanium setup in my opinion. The first and most glaring is that it is a DIY type project, it's not for everyone. The second is that bit that was mentioned about not getting the higher colors with it. My guess is that it's a smoothing problem, you can obtain the colors in most alloys but they are variable and hard to reproduce, my old reactive metals anodizer had the same problem.

  8. I'm sorry if I was a bit confrontational in my last post, chalk it up to a bad day I guess, I didn't mean to be when I wrote it.

    Yes, I have made and destroyed a fair amount of scale armor in many styles, including the historical roman plumata as described by H. Russell Robinson, but using modern materials and construction techniques. In my experience plumata is the pinnacle of historical scale armor construction. My design is one of a dozen or so that I developed directly from the historical one.

    A sheet of european 4-1 with alternating rings removed in every other row becomes Japanese 4-1, the extra ring can be added into the scale design with only a small decrease in flexibility but it is not necessary. Perhaps flexibilty is the wrong word, stretch might be more accurate, but my meaning is the property of armor to conform comfortably to body shape as one moves.

    The large hole does appear to be a weak point but it is really no larger than the inner diameter of the rings itself. A blade that strikes upwards underneath the scale usually just sticks in the hole with minimal penetration, in my testing the rings always fail first. A very thin point could slip through but that and the thickness of the scales is more a function of the size of the weave, which was chosen for all around utility and ease of manufacture. When the armour is made with rings and scales the same size as historical plumata, which is not commercially available yet, this is not a problem.

    I must say though that I object strongly to the term "fantasy". Fantasy armor is not my focus, I deal mostly with modern protective gear. My scale armor is functional and has seen hard use, however the major market for armor these days is fantasy applications. I would wager that the majority of your customers are also intending to dress up and "pretend" that they are warriors, but not to engage in actual battle.

  9. these can be had for about $40 a piece,

    "12VDC/9AMP output. Symbol Technologies p/n 50-14001-004 Rev C. Model SYM04-1. (Smart Industries #91-58104) AC input; 100-120VAC/200-240VAC. 50 to 60Hz. 3.0A/1.5A. UL/CSA (Level 3) (N16601) . Also approved for Switzerland and 4 other countries. High quality industrial grade construction. Unit has internal voltage control pot which allows output voltage level control, but we do not know its +- range. Nominal output is 12VDC, highly regulated. Built in cooling fan. Case is 7"L x 3-3/4"W x 2"H. Accepts standard IEC power cord. (Not supplied) Output is to Molex connector (not supplied) - matching molex parts numbers to make connector (not supplied) are:

    1x15-04-9342 Strain Relief, 6x 44476-3112 Minifit Jr Female Terminal, 1x 39-01-2065 Mini Fit Jr Recepticle Duel Row 6 Circuit"

    But could I boost the voltage on it?

  10. Oh yeah, I'm good for a power source myself. I'm just thinking of a setup for people who want to get a cheap little startup unit to play around with. I've had a couple people e-mail me who wanted something like that in the last couple days.

    I'm thinking full range of colors in at least Nb but not necessarily fast or able to do more than a small jewelry sized piece. So maybe even amperage isn't that big a concern, I'm thinking a common 500ma would do for very small batches.

  11. As for working in 32g, it makes nice inlays but be really careful with them. If you actually want something useful be prepared to solder, weld or epoxy the darn thing together. Even grade 5 Ti in a tight aspect ratio is pathetically flimsy at that size.

  12. Use nail clippers, you will have to modify them to fit the coil for 49g. Cut a nick out of the underside of the lower blade, you may also need to polish the edges to get them sharp enough. I guarantee this will work, I've used this technique to cut 50g tungsten rings with a .005" I.D. After that you're on your own, so far I haven't managed to make anything out of them.

  13. Wall warts are like a buck each up to 12v and adjustable output, but you'd need to connect 8 in series and I wouldn't even trust two. Laptop power supplies go up to around 30v with some adjustability, etc. There are all sorts of power supplies for obsolete electronics that can be bought dirt cheap as surplus, but the voltages are just too low.