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Posts posted by lorenzo

  1. Anybody even thought about using that on my pots would be eating one of 'em. SS is rust resistant, but will scratch iron and SS badly.


    You're dead wrong about that, as long as your cuts and closures are good there won't be an issue, they work great. Any "scratches" are a minor cosmetic thing but if you're worried, copper alloy ones take care of that too. I've personally tested them on seasoned cast iron, steel, stainless steel, aluminum and teflon pans.


    Keep in mind that this type of scrubber was common back when seasoned iron and steel pans were the only option. Most of the ones you find for sale now are garbage though, Badly made ones could scratch the hell out of a pan.


    For any one who wants to make them, smaller rings in thinner wire work best.  I recommend welding the rings for strength.

  2. Yeah, we could discuss doing a plastic run, feel free to send me an e-mail.


    Jon works with the same Injection molding place that I do so he might already have a better idea of the numbers involved. I think we'd have to do a redesign from what the movie wanted though, I remember that concept art as not being very historically correct.

  3. There have been a few experimental designs tried by me since the last update on this thread. I'm pretty sure that I have a practical CAD design at this point but I haven't had time to do any prototypes of it.


    A manufacturing run in plastic could be arranged in short order with a small investment, metal is still a ways off even with a relatively serious financial backer.

  4. Yeah, the scales are a much larger portion of the weight than the material the rings are made from. There are significant weight savings from using smaller gauge rings mostly from needing less scales to cover the same area in addition the weight of the rings themselves. If you make your own rings you could also experiment with slightly larger diameters to get a similar effect.

  5. Medium scales were designed for use with 1/4" rings.


    While 17g aluminum is durable enough to use butted rings it isn't readily available and makes the weave quite stiff.


    18g stainless will be about the same strength/weight but the weave is more flexible. I wouldn't personally trust 18g Aluminum and the weight reduction is quite small, less than 10%.


    Split rings are much stronger with the same weight and flexibility as 18g steel. The downside is that they chafe, cost more and take longer to weave. I'd recommend the #5 fine split rings from Worthco for medium scales. http://rings.worthco.com/products/fine-gauge-split-rings


    For welded rings you can use 19g 1/4" stainless, it's about 2/3 of the weight of the butted rings version and so strong that it will never need repairs, by far the best choice if you can afford it.

  6. For stainless rings the cheapest solution is brass brazing, any thin brass wire will do and you can use borax/water for the flux. Propane torch will work fine as a heat source for that ring size.


    Lead/tin doesn't flow in my experience but it might with the right flux, silver/tin plumbing solder is probably a better bet though.

  7. Here's a link to a good tutorial on medieval tunic patterns, It should clear up how the armpits are best done. Since you're using 16g 5/16" rings you shouldn't even need any of the gussets and gores so feel free to omit them. They serve the same purpose as the darting in the Trevor Barker pattern, historical accuracy and extra mobility for fighting men.




    A hauberk pattern tutorial is another project that I keep meaning to work on, especially since there's only that one decent one out there right now.

  8. The trick to doing a scale shoulder on a mail shirt is not to let the weight of the torso stretch out the scale weave. The two ways that I've done this are to either stiffen up the scale weave or just add it as an overlay to the vest rather than a weight bearing component. At a guess the shirt you referenced uses the second method. If you choose to stiffen up the scales instead I prefer to use plasti-dip sprayed on the backside of the weave and then cured onto a form.


    I'd steer clear of the bladeturner pattern, it's really just a flawed design, there are better ways to make a 45 degree seam shoulder if you really must have one. I've made a couple shirts based on that pattern in the past and having made 1000+ shirts now those are still among the worst.


    The Trevor Barker one is much better but unless you're concerned with historical accuracy I'd skip all the darting because it's not really necessary for a costume piece. There are still two minor drawbacks to this pattern, the neckhole and the armpits are very crudely done, they're serviceable but just don't look very good.


    I generally just use a simple tunic pattern unless I'm doing a custom piece. In my experience that's the most common way that historical mail shirts were made anyways.

  9. Okay, the first thing that you need to know is that with the ring size you're using you'll have limited success with tailoring. Historical armour was most often crafted with an AR of 6+ for a very good reason, it allows your suit to stretch as you move. I use welded rings with an AR of 6.7 to ensure a full range of motion, it looks like you're using 18g 3/16" rings which you'll have to accept will never turn out quite as good. Now onto your questions;


    Yes, we always weave the maille in the armpits so it hangs open just like the scales do. We never include gussets because they're totally unnecessary with ring AR's above 6, I think they're probably unnecessary in your case as well. I also have to comment that what you've made there isn't a proper gusset, which should be located on the torso of the shirt to accommodate the Latissimus Dorsi muscle. Yours is up on the arm where it probably does more harm than good.


    There is also a matching V on the underarm, the patch of maille that connects the two is more or less a simple hexagon shape. That won't necessarily work for your design though, this old post shows how I did the armpits in a shirt that was similar to the style you've made here, hopefully it'll be helpful to you in visualizing how to make the transition.



  10. Paladin; We minimized the problems with the shoulder seams by tweaking the ring sizes slightly. Having large AR welded rings really made a difference in having them lay a little more nicely. I think with a scale redesign they could be made almost perfect but that's a project for the future.


    rollcake; We covered the armpits with maille, basically just use the same sized rings as for your scales and regular european 4-1 should work. Feel free to ask whatever questions you like here.