lorenzo
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Posts posted by lorenzo
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Knipex 79 12 125
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To my knowledge the vikings used European 4-1 for armour but not jewelry. For authentic jewelry I've only seen examples of plain single and double linked chains.
It's certain that the vikings had contact with cultures that used spiral and byzantine weaves but I've never seen evidence that they used them. Most viking pieces that seem to be a certain type of chain turn out to be twisted or woven wire on close examination.
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I wouldn't bother with saw cut, the difference is barely noticeable over an entire shirt. If you really want a top of the line shirt use the extra money you'd save on saw cut rings to buy a welder instead.
calyx reacted to this -
You'll need to buy o-rings. Here's a link to get you started.
http://www.rubberstore.com/catalog/neoprene-orings-c-33_50.html
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Adding expansions under the pecs and shoulder blades has two purposes. First it enhances the muscular look of those areas and second it spreads the contractions around so that they don't look bunched up at the hemline. It isn't a big deal to just do them all down the sides like you're planning but it might not fit quite as well.
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That could work, it's worth a try.
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I think that wet would be preferable for that particular application. The water and detergent should help to keep the ceramic from getting loaded up with copper debris which could prevent it from effectively grinding down the steel burrs.
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Nice work, it's difficult to stick with a project like that and see it through both due to the cost and the amount of work involved.
I would really suggest redoing the seams though, the bladeturner ones are just plain bad and nowhere near historically accurate. Here's a link to a tutorial that shows how to do a proper 45 degree seam.
http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.php?key=31
The Trevor Barker ones are fine for high AR rings but with the low AR rings you're using they tend to bunch up a bit so I'd go with 3-1 expansions rather than the 5-1 ones.
Other than that, the fit on your shirt looks excellent and the overall aesthetic is good. How are the arms for freedom of movement?
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Argon shielding is critical for getting consistently good welds in titanium and so is having clean rings. You should wash and degrease any Ti rings that you'll be welding with but it's not necessary to sand or file the surfaces. Tumbling or etching is the worst case scenario for very contaminated rings but I doubt you'll ever need that.
It sounds to me like you aren't putting enough consistent pressure on the rings to forge them properly. That can be really tricky with lower aspect ratios in springy hard metals like grade 5 titanium. I'd recommend something more like 18g 5/16" or 16g 3/8" but 16g 5/16" is also workable. Make sure that you slightly overlap the ends of the rings so that they have spring pressure against each other as a closed ring and use the same amount of force each time you press a ring into the electrodes as well. With that size of ring it should be a few pounds of force at minimum.
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That depends on the type of grease that you got onto it, if it's just oil from your skin then warm water and detergent should be fine. If it doesn't come off that way then you'll need to use a solvent. Since polycarbonate paints are solvent based they should be tolerant of small amounts of grease and oil.
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Renwax would need to be reapplied after every use of the armour. It will prevent rust indefinitely during storage or display but isn't meant for everyday wear.
For that you should look into a different protectant like the ones losthelm posted about and re-apply them after every use as well.
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Try this channel, some good stuff in there but maybe not exactly what you're looking for.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLMUtS78ZxryOMRve8RkM0vcrIKPH3hGvW
Rob MacLennan and Brimley's Mom reacted to this -
Renwax is the best stuff for preventing rust on mild steel.
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No primer is used for painting polycarbonate, just clean and degrease.
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Stainless, or any other metal the scales come in, will keep you safe in this scenario but it won't be as dent resistant as you might like. My testing has shown that 20g 3/16" welded stainless rings underneath the small scales will stop an upward thrust from most weapons. Weapons that it likely wouldn't stop are icepicks and stilettos since a very thin blade can pass through the rings.
For large scales it would be 18g 5/16" rings so larger blades like a rapier could possibly get through, it may or may not be a problem for your application but that's not for me to test, that's the marshal's job. Split rings are less reliable than welded but once again that's the marshal's job to test.
If you don't want the weight of brigandine then don't even bother with large scales, they weigh about the same. Small scales save you about 40% of the weight as long as you stick with the 0.015" thick ones. Aluminum or titanium scales would save you another 20% on top of that.
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To make this work properly you'll need to punch a larger hole in the small scales, or you could just rivet your scales to a cloth or leather backing rather than using rings to connect them.
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That isn't the case, all non-standard armor for rapier combat must be tested before use, your marshal is not allowed to say if it passes or doesn't pass without testing.
Don't listen to what people of forums or facebook are telling you about this, go read through the rulebook yourself.
http://www.sca.org/officers/marshal/docs/rapier/rapier_handbook.pdf
I'm pretty confident that stainless scales will be strong enough to pass, but I doubt that butted rings will, you'll likely need to use welded or split rings to pass. It would also be better to use small scales rather than large ones since they're much lighter and the smaller rings are more resistant to penetration by small objects.
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In general saw cut are worth it for jewelry, however if you're doing aluminum/rubber combos it's far more important to get the right look color wise if you want to sell a lot. Focus on getting anodized rings that match the EPDM as closely as possible and don't worry too much if they aren't available in saw cut.
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As far as the sleeves go it isn't necessary to change the direction of the weave at all. Many eastern style hauberks are made with flared sleeves but I've never seen one with those type of seams.
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It's been done before, I don't know firsthand but the process and results should be the same as with copper.
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Personally, I think that you haven't found the right people yet, and you're not likely to if you're just looking in Moose Jaw. That city is a complete backwater, even for rural Saskatchewan.
I have some experience in the matter since I spent 10 years making maille in Moose Jaw. it wasn't until I moved to Saskatoon that I found other people who took it at all seriously. If you're even half serious about your work I think you'll need to look farther afield.
Airinhead reacted to this -
The larger the AR on the connecting rings the more flexible and form fitting the material will be, just like any other type of chain armor really. Welded rings are the best option but fine gauge split rings work pretty well too, butted rings not so much. Just be sure not to increase the diameter of the ring too much or you'll get unsightly gaps between your scales.
Scale gown for "Seventh Son" movie.
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Hey all, I've been promising to show everyone some scale techniques for a long time now. Here's a link to a page about a scale gown that we made for the upcoming "Seventh Son" movie.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.760886937333833.1073741827.133364950086038&type=1
The pictures there show details of some of the more advanced scale techniques and what can be accomplished with them. If you have any questions about the scale construction post them here and I'll try to answer them.