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lorenzo

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Posts posted by lorenzo


  1. I can advise you on welders but first I'd need to know what your budget and application are.

    If you just need a cheap jewelry welder then it's probably best to wait for TRL to restock them. I can't recommend the ABI pulse arc welders at all.

    If you're wanting to make high end jewelry then learning to do hard soldering with a torch might be your best option.

    If it's armor you want to weld then there are a few options depending on the size and alloys that you need it to be able to handle.

    You can also find some useful info about resistance welders for armor in the most recent reply I made in the following thread. 

     


  2. Okay, in that price range you only have one realistic option that doesn't require any electronics knowledge.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/120-volt-spot-welder-61205.html

    One of these things will do alright for 14-18g steel. You'd need to replace the copper arms with some heavy copper cable and bolt the electrodes to a chunk of plywood or something. You want to leave about a 3/16" gap and make sure that they're insulated from each other. You can check out how I did my electrode setup in Fig. 1-1 of this article.

    http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.php?key=594

    There's some other useful info in there too but some that doesn't apply to you, it was the manual for the old TRL welders.

    There are videos on TRL's youtube showing how the electrodes are set up and how the weld is done.

    There are some newer videos as well but all you'll learn from those is how not to weld.

    Later on you can upgrade this welder with gas plumbing and a timing circuit for titanium. It'll weld most metals pretty well with a bit of practice.


  3. Sounds like the filler isn't wetting to the base material, is that correct? I'd suspect an issue with oxide first.

     

    I'm not familiar with speedwire, what's the fineness of the silver? What alloy is the base metal? Are you using a flux or shield gas? How did you clean the piece?


  4. I'm a bit late replying but I can confirm that the type of machine you posted a link to on ebay will weld .5mm sterling in 3mm rings. One problem though is that many of these Chinese pulse arc welders are poorly made and don't function properly, caveat emptor.

     

    If you're using the argon correctly then you won't need to do any clean up because it shouldn't oxidize. A tumbler might not be necessary in that case.


  5. Anybody even thought about using that on my pots would be eating one of 'em. SS is rust resistant, but will scratch iron and SS badly.

     

    You're dead wrong about that, as long as your cuts and closures are good there won't be an issue, they work great. Any "scratches" are a minor cosmetic thing but if you're worried, copper alloy ones take care of that too. I've personally tested them on seasoned cast iron, steel, stainless steel, aluminum and teflon pans.

     

    Keep in mind that this type of scrubber was common back when seasoned iron and steel pans were the only option. Most of the ones you find for sale now are garbage though, Badly made ones could scratch the hell out of a pan.

     

    For any one who wants to make them, smaller rings in thinner wire work best.  I recommend welding the rings for strength.


  6. Yeah, we could discuss doing a plastic run, feel free to send me an e-mail.

     

    Jon works with the same Injection molding place that I do so he might already have a better idea of the numbers involved. I think we'd have to do a redesign from what the movie wanted though, I remember that concept art as not being very historically correct.


  7. There have been a few experimental designs tried by me since the last update on this thread. I'm pretty sure that I have a practical CAD design at this point but I haven't had time to do any prototypes of it.

     

    A manufacturing run in plastic could be arranged in short order with a small investment, metal is still a ways off even with a relatively serious financial backer.


  8. Yeah, the scales are a much larger portion of the weight than the material the rings are made from. There are significant weight savings from using smaller gauge rings mostly from needing less scales to cover the same area in addition the weight of the rings themselves. If you make your own rings you could also experiment with slightly larger diameters to get a similar effect.


  9. Medium scales were designed for use with 1/4" rings.

     

    While 17g aluminum is durable enough to use butted rings it isn't readily available and makes the weave quite stiff.

     

    18g stainless will be about the same strength/weight but the weave is more flexible. I wouldn't personally trust 18g Aluminum and the weight reduction is quite small, less than 10%.

     

    Split rings are much stronger with the same weight and flexibility as 18g steel. The downside is that they chafe, cost more and take longer to weave. I'd recommend the #5 fine split rings from Worthco for medium scales. http://rings.worthco.com/products/fine-gauge-split-rings

     

    For welded rings you can use 19g 1/4" stainless, it's about 2/3 of the weight of the butted rings version and so strong that it will never need repairs, by far the best choice if you can afford it.


  10. For stainless rings the cheapest solution is brass brazing, any thin brass wire will do and you can use borax/water for the flux. Propane torch will work fine as a heat source for that ring size.

     

    Lead/tin doesn't flow in my experience but it might with the right flux, silver/tin plumbing solder is probably a better bet though.

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