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lorenzo

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Posts posted by lorenzo


  1. 1. Krylon fusion is the cheapest option, about $7 at Walmart. Tamiya polycarbonate paint is supposed to be better. You can also make your own paint with the appropriate pigments and solvents.

    2. Yes, see above.

    3. After, use light coats and shake between applications to prevent the rings sticking.

    4. Yes, but not for bronze.

    5. Probably, but you should have no trouble painting them.


  2. That's pretty strange, are you sure that you didn't make some mistake with the third one? The difference in diameter is consistent with a couple extra rows of rings.

     

    If that isn't the case and you'd like them all to be the same then I'd recommend taking them all apart into 3 equal pieces and mixing/matching the pieces so that all three balls are the same size.


  3. A balaclava ought to do just fine for padding, they might be a little warm in summer but that's nothing some cold water can't fix.

     

    I'd recommend our medium size welded stainless mesh for the coif, it's very light and way stronger than anything you could make by hand on a budget. Probably overkill for something like this but it's pretty cost competitive once you consider the amount of time it takes to weave stuff by hand.


  4. Assuming that your gauge is in SWG that should be about 11lbs. That's enough to make a vest for a smaller guy. I would go with a 9/32" mandrel which should get you 6-7 sqft of reasonably sturdy, lightweight and flexible chainmail for re-enactment armor purposes.

     

    Keep in mind that butted galvanized steel rings will never be "battle grade", they just don't have a good enough strength to weight ratio. You need riveted or welded rings for real armor, it would also be good if they were a stronger alloy and temper than the stuff you buy in hardware stores.


  5. Since titanium wire almost always comes with an acid etched surface finish it's pretty easy to lose a couple thousandths to burnishing effects just from being played with. The rub off in that case is going to be primarily titanium metal dust and in my experience it becomes much less as the rings age. I've never felt the need to re-make something due to this happening.


  6. I assume this is a vest, if so charge by the hour and add 20%, a large part of the time involved with this will be tailoring to fit properly in addition to weaving.

     

    If it's a shirt with sleeves then add 50%.

     

    A custom commission like this should be a couple thousand dollars MINIMUM. If it isn't that, or more, then you aren't charging enough.

     

    If at all possible have custom sized flat washers punched for the large rings, this has three benefits. First, it saves you a LOT of weaving time. Second, it makes the finished piece feel smoother since there are no ring ends. Third, it looks amazing.


  7. If weight is top priority then the best rings for your application are welded stainless steel. Aluminum rings need to be much thicker to hold up well and as a result they weigh more while being much weaker. You'd shave about 20% off of the total weight of the piece using welded 21g 7/32" rings. This is what professional costumers use because it's lighter, stronger and fits much better.

     

    If you don't have a welder and don't want to have someone else make it for you then #3 fine gauge split rings from www.worthco.com are the next best option. They weigh more per thousand than the aluminum rings but they reduce the amount of scales used to about 850/sqft for a %10 total weight savings with better fit and flexibility. Be warned though, split rings can chafe.

     

    Aluminum 18g 3/16" rings are a distant third place because they're really cheap and lighter than the munitions grade split rings that TRL sells. They're pretty weak, expect to have to do repairs around the armpits and shoulders every once in a while.


  8. I've actually used a 500 watt version of the jewelry welder, it doesn't have nearly enough power to do the job either. You're looking at 1000W+ and/or a higher duty cycle. I find it's best to use a welder that can draw 1800W from a standard 120 Volt 15 Amp outlet, it gives a lot of flexibility when fine tuning weld parameters.

     

    It's my understanding that a suitable welder will be available from TRL again soon so keep an eye out for that.


  9. Looks good overall.  Very nice looking work on the spine, fitting on the torso is excellent.

     

    The sleeves could use a bit of work, looks like you had to make them overly large to get enough mobility. I'd get rid of those scales bunched up in the underarm, they aren't doing you any favours, better to just use straight rings for that area.


  10. Hi Jamie, pretty ambitious for a first project.

     

    As a general rule; the smaller the rings are the more seamless looking you can make your costume but the more work it takes overall. The shoulders and sleeves are the trickiest part, you generally need a lot of experience/talent to pull them off seamlessly and form fitting.

     

    -Small scales are always better unless you really want the look of large scales.

    -Stick to simple geometric shapes to keep the seams tidy looking, let the natural stretch of the material handle the form fitting part.

    -For the areas that you want to cover it would be simpler to do the entire thing as a one piece dress sort of arrangement, separate legs & crotch makes it much harder.

    -Metal costumes are relatively heavy, you'll likely want a cloth bodysuit to wear under it anyways to keep it from chafing.

    -The amount of hours involved in this for an amateur is likely to be huge, count on the better part of a year working in your spare time. it might be better to hire a professional for something like this.


  11. First of all it's only a design patent, it's meant to cover ornamental features and is not the same as a normal utility patent. As long as your design is substantially different, which shouldn't be difficult, you won't have a problem.

     

    With that said it's very doubtful that the design patent is valid, it seems strictly utilitarian to my way of thinking.

     

    Here's US court opinion for a similar design patent challenge, just FYI.

     

    http://www.cafc.uscourts.gov/images/stories/opinions-orders/06-1562.pdf

     

    And here are some links to utility patents for various types of chainmail pot scrubbers. All of them indicate that the basic design was already quite well known at the time.

     

    https://www.google.com/patents/US422214

     

    https://www.google.com/patents/US442436

     

    https://www.google.com/patents/US717004

     

    https://www.google.com/patents/US2139175

     

    https://www.google.com/patents/US3241171

     

    If you'd like more assistance with this please feel free to contact me with the details and I'll see what I can do.

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