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Posts posted by lorenzo

  1. Stainless, or any other metal the scales come in, will keep you safe in this scenario but it won't be as dent resistant as you might like. My testing has shown that 20g 3/16" welded stainless rings underneath the small scales will stop an upward thrust from most weapons. Weapons that it likely wouldn't stop are icepicks and stilettos since a very thin blade can pass through the rings.


    For large scales it would be 18g 5/16" rings so larger blades like a rapier could possibly get through, it may or may not be a problem for your application but that's not for me to test, that's the marshal's job. Split rings are less reliable than welded but once again that's the marshal's job to test.


    If you don't want the weight of brigandine then don't even bother with large scales, they weigh about the same. Small scales save you about 40% of the weight as long as you stick with the 0.015" thick ones. Aluminum or titanium scales would save you another 20% on top of that.

  2. That isn't the case, all non-standard armor for rapier combat must be tested before use, your marshal is not allowed to say if it passes or doesn't pass without testing.


    Don't listen to what people of forums or facebook are telling you about this, go read through the rulebook yourself.




    I'm pretty confident that stainless scales will be strong enough to pass, but I doubt that butted rings will, you'll likely need to use welded or split rings to pass. It would also be better to use small scales rather than large ones since they're much lighter and the smaller rings are more resistant to penetration by small objects.

  3. In general saw cut are worth it for jewelry, however if you're doing aluminum/rubber combos it's far more important to get the right look color wise if you want to sell a lot. Focus on getting anodized rings that match the EPDM as closely as possible and don't worry too much if they aren't available in saw cut.

  4. Personally, I think that you haven't found the right people yet, and you're not likely to if you're just looking in Moose Jaw. That city is a complete backwater, even for rural Saskatchewan.


    I have some experience in the matter since I spent 10 years making maille in Moose Jaw. it wasn't until I moved to Saskatoon that I found other people who took it at all seriously. If you're even half serious about your work I think you'll need to look farther afield.

  5. The larger the AR on the connecting rings the more flexible and form fitting the material will be, just like any other type of chain armor really. Welded rings are the best option but fine gauge split rings work pretty well too, butted rings not so much. Just be sure not to increase the diameter of the ring too much or you'll get unsightly gaps between your scales.

  6. 1. Krylon fusion is the cheapest option, about $7 at Walmart. Tamiya polycarbonate paint is supposed to be better. You can also make your own paint with the appropriate pigments and solvents.

    2. Yes, see above.

    3. After, use light coats and shake between applications to prevent the rings sticking.

    4. Yes, but not for bronze.

    5. Probably, but you should have no trouble painting them.

  7. That's pretty strange, are you sure that you didn't make some mistake with the third one? The difference in diameter is consistent with a couple extra rows of rings.


    If that isn't the case and you'd like them all to be the same then I'd recommend taking them all apart into 3 equal pieces and mixing/matching the pieces so that all three balls are the same size.

  8. A balaclava ought to do just fine for padding, they might be a little warm in summer but that's nothing some cold water can't fix.


    I'd recommend our medium size welded stainless mesh for the coif, it's very light and way stronger than anything you could make by hand on a budget. Probably overkill for something like this but it's pretty cost competitive once you consider the amount of time it takes to weave stuff by hand.

  9. Assuming that your gauge is in SWG that should be about 11lbs. That's enough to make a vest for a smaller guy. I would go with a 9/32" mandrel which should get you 6-7 sqft of reasonably sturdy, lightweight and flexible chainmail for re-enactment armor purposes.


    Keep in mind that butted galvanized steel rings will never be "battle grade", they just don't have a good enough strength to weight ratio. You need riveted or welded rings for real armor, it would also be good if they were a stronger alloy and temper than the stuff you buy in hardware stores.

  10. Since titanium wire almost always comes with an acid etched surface finish it's pretty easy to lose a couple thousandths to burnishing effects just from being played with. The rub off in that case is going to be primarily titanium metal dust and in my experience it becomes much less as the rings age. I've never felt the need to re-make something due to this happening.

  11. I assume this is a vest, if so charge by the hour and add 20%, a large part of the time involved with this will be tailoring to fit properly in addition to weaving.


    If it's a shirt with sleeves then add 50%.


    A custom commission like this should be a couple thousand dollars MINIMUM. If it isn't that, or more, then you aren't charging enough.


    If at all possible have custom sized flat washers punched for the large rings, this has three benefits. First, it saves you a LOT of weaving time. Second, it makes the finished piece feel smoother since there are no ring ends. Third, it looks amazing.

  12. If weight is top priority then the best rings for your application are welded stainless steel. Aluminum rings need to be much thicker to hold up well and as a result they weigh more while being much weaker. You'd shave about 20% off of the total weight of the piece using welded 21g 7/32" rings. This is what professional costumers use because it's lighter, stronger and fits much better.


    If you don't have a welder and don't want to have someone else make it for you then #3 fine gauge split rings from www.worthco.com are the next best option. They weigh more per thousand than the aluminum rings but they reduce the amount of scales used to about 850/sqft for a %10 total weight savings with better fit and flexibility. Be warned though, split rings can chafe.


    Aluminum 18g 3/16" rings are a distant third place because they're really cheap and lighter than the munitions grade split rings that TRL sells. They're pretty weak, expect to have to do repairs around the armpits and shoulders every once in a while.