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lorenzo

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Posts posted by lorenzo


  1. We make a lot of shoes/socks, the weave is open enough that they feel like sandals, but they have no sole to speak of. You could probably do cutouts that look more like sandals but anything too strappy starts to chafe. Rubber rings might help with the chafing and soles can be cut out of leather or rubber pretty easily.


  2. I'm not sure why Jon is holding the pliers like that in the video, probably just showing off for the camera. You can easily get away with that using the modified knipex though,16g spring steel is nothing for them.

     

    Almost all professionals hold their pliers in more of a V shape when weaving really strong rings, it's the only way to get good leverage, and the modified knipex work just fine that way too.

     

    I tend to modify mine with a 45 degree tip so that they're more ergonomic but the actual leverage is no different.


  3. There should be no need for reinforcement other than along the edges of the shoulder. Top edge reinforcement is just adding a couple rows of e4-1, side edge reinforcement technique is shown in the following picture.

     

    http://www.theringlord.org/forum/uploads/1262750106/gallery_15_79900.jpg

     

    I am seeing a problem with your closures in the pics. If you don't have good closures then no amount of reinforcement will help. Make sure that the butted ends of each ring are actually touching and pressing against each other with some force. If you're having trouble with getting the closures correct then consider switching to split rings size #7F for large scales.


  4. Fusing, soldering and welding can all be done for every ring, but with tight weaves and small wire it's absolutely necessary to do it as you add each ring one at a time, so no speedweaving. In my experience a decent butane torch is reliable down to about 24 gauge, for smaller stuff you should probably have a jeweler's torch or welder.

     

    Loren's video shows good basic technique but I prefer to use a smaller or cooler flame to better regulate the heat input into the ring. I also keep the ring I'm working on gripped with as large a plier as I can fit into the weave to act as a heat sink. These techniques help to avoid the flat spots, etc.

     

    If you need any more help just let me know, I go into Moose Jaw every month or so, it wouldn't be a problem to help you get set up with fusing/soldering.


  5. Nice looking pieces, you've definitely got some skills. Can't say I'm fond of the coif, though it might look better in small scales.

     

    I've done a few of them for various productions but the only one that was half decent was on the Regina character in Once Upon a Time.

     

    http://37.media.tumblr.com/906d4f8de148c93be6bf3e26f076dae7/tumblr_mpol42819C1qmvur2o5_1280.jpg


  6. While we do use machines to weave a considerable amount of maille there's still a need for hand work on a significant amount of our maille projects.

     

    From a professional standpoint the best way to make maille is also the fastest and the fastest way is the way that involves handling each ring as little as possible. For most pieces that's adding two raw rings at a time to the edge of a sheet but for various products and weaves all the methods can be useful. It's best to be able to work competently in any style and a good benchmark for armour grade sheets of 4-1 is about 600 rings per hour.


  7. Unfortunately the anodized finish is neither plastic nor metal and paint just will not stick to it.

     

    Here are a couple tricks that the movie costumers I've worked with use to age anodized aluminum that are more permanent.

     

    1. Caustic soda, it'll eat through the anodized layer where ever a drop touches. Careful cause it'll eat you too.

     

    2. Stone washing, the larger and sharper the stones the more beat up and irregular it'll look afterwards.


  8. Yep, you really need those ends pressing against each other with no gap to be sure that they flow together nicely.

     

    Make sure as well that your rings are as clean as possible, the best way that I've found to do that is tumble them in citric acid solution with a little dish detergent and then rinse in cold water.


  9. Although I agree that chainmail, as a rule, isn't bulletproof I can't see how it's a bad thing to demonstrate that by experiment in a safe and responsible manner.

     

    I agree that with a careful choice of alloy, along with ring size and geometry it would be possible to make bullet resistant chainmail, but it's unlikely to be very practical.


  10. And fragmentation of the links themselves, annealed or not, an even worse problem, from the surgeon's point of view.  It's what Hal said (hi Hal) -- having to pick the bits of up to five links out of the wound channel is bad.  The Battle of Omdurman in 1898 in the Sudan pitted the Mahdi's army, some units of which were kitted out in shirts of mail, against black-powder breechloading rifles, smokeless-powder magazine rifles, Maxims (smokeless .303 again), and some artillery.  Well, it was worse getting shot in a mail shirt than it was in your skin.  Not even the Third World tried wearing mail to war again.

     

    That's not quite correct, in the battle that you're referring to both sides were wearing maille. The Khedive's men were supplied with split ring mail made in Britain, which was what fragmented so badly since it was tempered too hard for ballistic threats. The Mahdists were also wearing mail shirts but of a more traditional riveted iron which didn't cause the same problems.

     

    Interestingly enough the split ring shirts were an early attempt at manufacturing and testing bullet resistant armour. The Wilkinson Sword Company, which supplied the split ring armour also went on to make bullet resistant maille lined jackets which were used by British officers in WWI and the success of those led directly to the development of flak jackets used in WWII.


  11. You could theoretically make something bullet resistant out of welded rings, but I haven't played much with the needed sizes.

     

    To keep the rings from fragmenting in this application you actually want them to be annealed for maximum toughness to avoid fragmentation. This of course means less ultimate strength of the rings so it's best to go with a titanium alloy for the best strength to weight ratio. I would suggest grade 9 as the best tradeoff. It would still be pretty dense and heavy to be sure and fragmentation of the round could also be a problem.

     

    Good luck with your testing and please remember to post any results, with an appropriate safety disclaimer of course.


  12. I agree that a machete isn't ideal, but there are drawbacks to blunt weapons as well. Accounts of historical battles are rife with reports of warriors thrusting with a sword or spear then being killed in turn when their weapon gets stuck in the body. On the other hand the biggest historical gripe about slashing weapons was that they would just skip off of the bones unless they were very sharp, so getting a cutting blade stuck wasn't as big of an issue. With bludgeoning weapons the problem was that they were tiresome to swing and hard to use defensively. All three type of weapons have drawbacks but you could still use a machete to make a club or a spear pretty easily if needed. A good battle axe would make a pretty versatile combination if they were in any way available, but I don't think wood axes would work very well.

     

    I'm sure you could kill zombies by scrambling their brains through the eye socket like some kind of undead lobotomy but stabbing into the skull is one of the best ways to get a blade stuck. Splitting or crushing the skull are much safer options and blunt weapons would be ideal if they weren't such a PITA to swing. Ribs and shoulder blades are very tough and spongy, so they can also easily trap a blade if you attack the torso. The long bones in the arms and legs and the skull on the other hand are springy and hard but rather brittle. A cutting stroke against them will generally either deflect off or just break the bone clean through. The spine is the definite weak spot, vertebrae are relatively soft and spongy. I used to sever the spines of hogs 1000+ times a day with just a 6 inch boning knife, no effort required.


  13. Well, stabbing is a quick and easy way to dispatch human opponents but wouldn't be too useful for zombies. Consider too that half-sword techniques would be largely ineffective. Long swords are almost useless in close quarters anyways, I can't imagine defending hallway door with one against zombies. Once you take stabbing out of the equation a single edged blade is undeniably better having twice the cutting power per weight. There's also the weight and length of the weapon, wrecking bars will really tire you out if you're swinging them all day and so will big heavy swords.

     

    All things considered I think that a nice light single edged chopping blade like a machete would be ideal, I guess the sword equivalent of that would be a kopis or falchion.


  14. Metal armour seems like overkill for zombies, plastic, leather or even thick cloth would do. I once had a pitbull clamp onto my arm through the sleeve of my wool coat but once we got him off of me I didn't have a scratch. Zombies just wouldn't really be much of a threat.

     

    I figure it would take +/- 15 lbs of welded stainless maille to make someone pretty much zombie proof head to toe, no gambeson required, that's manageable for most people. Swap in hardened leather parts for forearms, elbows, knees and lower legs, you're looking at probably 8-10 lbs and much more functional. You'd also want something like a bike helmet overtop or padding under the coif, and sturdy gloves and boots.

     

    We have an employee who's a zombie fanatic so this kind of thing get's re-hashed ad nauseum in MailleTec's shop.


  15. Even better; just make the design you want in any modeling program then convert it to .dwg and take it to a laser cutter. It's a pretty competitive business so shop around.

     

    Have you considered the weight though? A lammelar vest in 16g would be in the range of 60lbs after you consider how much the plates overlap. 20g with a consistent 2 layer overlap would be equivalent thickness and likely serve you better.

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