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Posts posted by donny.1

  1. So I have recently come into possesion of a good bit of 20ga 5/32 annodized aluminum, 18ga 5/32 annodized aluminum, and 20ga 3/32 annodized titanium. I was looking for some recommendations on jewelry weaves that I could use them for. As far as the titanium, I have sterling in sizes 20ga 7/64, 20ga 1/8, 18ga 1/8, 19ga 1/8, 18ga 7/32, and 20ga 3/32 and annodized niobium in 20ga 3/32 and 20ga 1/8 that I can combine it with. I'm kind of looking for some different weaves to experiment with, so figured I'd ask here. Was thinking of trying the honeybee weave, but wasn't sure of the exact aspect ratio. I'm not really stuck on any one thing that I'm trying to make, so bracelet, earrings, necklace, whatever. Thanks for any help!

  2. Make sure to wear a mask. Or do what I do to cut down on metal dust and get an IV bag of saline from a vets office, cut open the top and fill with machine oil. Hang the line so that the oil constantly drips down on the blade and front section of the coil. This will also extend the life of your blades when cutting harder metals, since is handles lubrication and cooling. A mask is still a good idea though, ecspecially when cutting galvy.

  3. Always wanted to try these, and finally found the time. On the right, a 5 lead 6 bite in a size 11, and on the left a 5 lead 9 bite in a size 9, both 24 gauge galvanized steel. Will have some done in precious metals soon since the practice is about over with base metals.


  4. So a jewelry store near me shut down, and I went down there to see what kind of stuff I might be able to get from the guys that were deciding what to throw away and what to keep and try and sell (think they were from the bank, and the stuff was being reposesed). Anyway, they decided that it wasn't worth there trouble to keep a 25 amp electroplating machine (pretty sure it was used for rhodium plating, if that helps), and the guy in charge gave it to me in exchange for a sterling bracelet for his wife (20 g 3/32 in ID JPL). I got some other goodies from him to, but I was wondering if anyone knew if the plating machine could be used to annodize titanium and niobium pieces after they were constructed for the purposes of achieving a rainbow effect. I've done my own annodizing in the past, but with rigs made for that purpose, and I wasn't wanting to just try it and risk ruining the machine. Does any modification have to be done to it to annodize with it, or does it need to be done any certain way? I haven't had the time or the guts to take the casing off yet and see if the insides look like an annodizing rig or not, with all the same parts and everything, but I'll probably be doing that in the next few days, so thanks for any help!

  5. Thanks.

    I can vouch for this type, they are really good.

    Would you mind dropping the link to the ebay page where you got them? I've had a lot of people asking about magnetic clasps latley, but the only kind I've ever used have fallen apart as well.

  6. I power wind and hand cut everything but precious metals and annodized stuff. That having been said, I used to be a machinist, so I have or can get mandrels in all the same size TRL can, and all of my cutters are heavily modified to give the best possible cut, some even better than TRL's machine cut. I used to have my own saw cut rig, and used to do all my own annodizing as well, but I stopped that when I found TRL. So I used to make 100% of all my rings, and it's good to know I can go back to that if I need to, but as far as time is concerned it's better for me to buy the annodized and saw cut stuff that I need.

  7. Awsome work! Definately love the color on one side of the necklace, and the fade is done very well. On the rare occasion that a customer has wanted a permy out of a strong material like stainless, I always put a failure ring or two in, just in case. I've never done it with anything else, but it sounds like a good idea, so I might start with some of my larger precious metal pieces.

  8. When welding with them, there is a pretty large difference in the properties of these two alloys, but for making chainmaille I'm not sure it makes much of a difference. I use 5356, because that's what I started with, so I already know it's strength, springback, and how to clean it and etch it best due to expirementing with it. Why did I start with that alloy? Because it's what I already had on hand because I was doing some welding with it. So, your mileage may vary.

  9. So I'm going to make a byzantine bracelet for my mother in law's birthday. I have made a lot of them and sold them to my wife's friends at work, but out of 19g stainless steel craft wire in a 1/8 inch ring. I would life to make this one out of TRL's saw cut gold fill, but I would like to stick with the 1/8 inch ID. I was wondering what gauge I should shoot for so that the edge rings are as stable as possible, but also to leave enough flexiblity for a bracelet. Thanks for any help!

  10. I made a braclet out of the same stuff for woman my wife works with. There were no real shtrength issues with the 1/8 inch rings, other than the fact that the springback took them a little larger than i had anticipated. I don't know what ID they ended up exactly, as i had no caliper at the time. I have a few rings left that have been sitting in a ziplock bag since that time (about 3 years ago now), that have darkened some, but not as much as I thought they would. The woman the braclet was made for got promoted and transfered soon after that, so i don't know how the stuff looks after being worn. The thing I really liked about it is that it was hard temper enough that my mini blot cutters snapped the rings off, giving me almost as good flush cuts as what i get with my modified aviation shears.