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Metal and Mineral

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About Metal and Mineral

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    Newbie

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    http://www.etsy.com/shop/MetalandMineral

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    Male
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    Salt Lake City, UT
  1. Metal and Mineral

    Small scale flowers

    I recommend if you have the materials and time to sit down and make 5 to 10 of them in a row, and record how long it takes you for each one. From there you can make a relatively good guess as to how long it will take you to make 200. As a note, how long it will take you will potentially decrease, up to a point. I've personally made around 100 small scale flowers and can attest to how much faster you can make them the more you make. You can use that guess as to how long it will take, multiply it by however much you want to be paid per hour of your time, and then add in materials cost, and shipping costs (including your time to ship). Go high as mentioned above for the same reasons, and be sure to get paid prior to ordering supplies. You can always work it out so that you pay them back some or they pay you more if it works out taking more or less time (up to you). Regardless, be sure you don't get left unpaid with supplies or finished flowers or both.
  2. Metal and Mineral

    Finger ring weave.

    Maybe Half Persian 3 in 1 Sheet 6 with some fine rings, or GSG.
  3. Metal and Mineral

    Help identify this weave, please?

    I concur with Tactical, haven't seen anything like it. You may have a second new weave if you attempt to make it symmetrical. Would give it a byzantine feel.
  4. Metal and Mineral

    Cutting fliuds for the Ringinator EZ

    My friend who owns a machine shop gave me some Rustlick Ultracut water soluble oil for free when I asked him what he suggested I use. That may or may not be easy to get a hold of on your own, though.
  5. Metal and Mineral

    Poll: How long have you been mailling, and do you make money?

    Started in my freshmen year of high school, still doing it now that I'm in college. Over the years I've steadily increased what I make, but mainly because its primarily reinvested in tools and supplies. Started out only selling a few things I've made and gradually worked up to selling supplies as well (some made myself). The side of my business where I make things has sadly faltered with the growing focus on the supplies side. Someday I'll get them both up to my "vision" of quality...
  6. Metal and Mineral

    Guide on Tumbling

    Haven't read through the entire thread, but as it is to compile information I'll just add what I've found to work very well. I use a half-half media mixture of the Stainless Steel Pin Shot and Ball Shot that I purchased from here. (http://theringlord.com/cart/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=166&cat=Tumblers). I 'seasoned' the for about 18-36 hours prior to use with any rings or finished pieces with the burnishing compound that I use for tumbling as well, which is Rio Grande Sunsheen Burnishing Compound (http://www.riogrande.com/Product/Super-Sunsheen-Burnishing-Compound/339323). Its relatively inexpensive and I've found that it is better than Dawn, as well as produces less suds. To further improve the shot and remove edges, you could probably tumble it with some polishing compound such as cerium oxide. All of this shot and burnishing compound are used in a UV-10 Thumler's vibratory tumbler, using a UV-3 barrel (I've only ever found it here: http://www.therockshed.com/tumbler3.html), rather than the UV-10 barrel, in order to have a barrel where the proper action can take place. This action cannot take place in a UV-10 barrel, as the amount of shot alone needed to fill it to the necessary level would exceed the weight limit by several pounds. Additionally, this is more cost effective when you consider the money it would take to purchase that much shot, particularly if you bought the more standard pre-finished shots sold by Rio Grande and others, as well as most batches of rings and items only needing a smaller volume anyways. When using this smaller barrel, though, if you seal the lid the wing nut used to hold the barrel down will cut up into the foam on the underside of the barrel lid. I usually run it with the top off anyways, as it makes it easy to check to see if the action has slowed and needs more liquid added to bring it back up to speed and I haven't had the lid ruined from the wing nut cutting into it when sealed. Speaking on the action inside the barrel, it is extremely important to note that you must have good action in the barrel to get good results, as well as fast results. With a vibratory tumbler you are looking for a sort of swirling vortex action. To get this action you must have a proper ratio of parts, media, and water mixed with burnishing compounds. While you can go with some scientific ratios, the best method I've found is to make sure that the barrel is at least 60% full with your media and items to tumble (more is usually better, and don't be too afraid to go up to about 90%) and then add some of your burnishing liquid to the barrel (I use a squirt bottle for better control). I then turn on the tumbler, wait a second for the shot to begin to mix with the parts and gain momentum, and then just continue adding burnishing liquid with my squirt bottle until the mixture has reached the proper, smooth action. You can Youtube videos of vibratory tumblers running to get an idea of what this action looks like (walnut media is a good one to watch, as it is easy to get this action with), as well as the tumbler tends to be unstable if it does not reach this proper action and should be feel as well as sound off. Another important part of all of this is to drain and replace the old burnishing compound with new burnishing compound after a certain amount of time, which will vary depending on load size, material, and level of oxidation. If you do not pay attention to this, your efforts can be diminished, eliminated, or worst of all, reversed (sometimes to the point where trying again with clean solution can't fully fix it). The reason for this is that the burnishing compound changes the surface tension of the water in addition to other things to hold the oxidation that is removed during the process in suspension, but the amount that can be held in suspension isn't infinite. I've done at least 10 pounds of 5356 bright aluminum so far, much of the wire purchased from here and then coiled on my *safe* power-winding setup and cut with Ringinator. For these I've found that the ideal shine (near mirror to mirror) can be achieved in about 25-35 minutes, with only one run. Multiple runs don't seem to visibly improve the finish, and only increase the risk of being run too long and reversing the shine (very common I've found with BA). For finished pieces, the time seems to take less, and the finish can be even better than loose rings. Current theory on that is that being held in place the shot can strike them more effectively. Additionally, I've ran anodized aluminum pieces with bright aluminum in them in the shot for 10 minutes or so with very good results on the BA, and no damage on the AA (some even look slightly shinier, though that may be due to oils being cleaned off). I use two different sieves made using 0.25" and 0.125" fencing material ("chicken wire", square holes) to separate the shot from the media, all the way down to many of the 20g ring sizes (though these take more time to shake/separate), separating over a bucket or tub to catch the shot. The shot is then poured into a kitchen strainer and sprayed clean. The rings (finished pieces can just be plucked out usually) are similarly sprayed off, and then ideally left to dry in direct sunlight (without proper drying, water spots can collect on the rings, and oxidation can occur that may reverse burnishing). To pick up the shot that tends to roll away regardless of care taken, as well as to aid in separation, a magnet can be used, ideally one on an extending pole and neodymium. A bonus to using a vibratory tumber with shot rather than a rotary tumbler is that it is extremely gentle on any beads or cabachons, etc. that you may place in there (check before doing so regardless). I've tumbled a calcite cabachon I made and wrapped in silver in there with great results (The calcite being significantly less hard than the shot). You can view the finish on my handmade BA rings yourself at my etsy store: www.etsy.com/shop/MMSupplies I apologize for the length of my post and any redundant material I may have added to the thread in advance.
  7. Metal and Mineral

    Seasoning TRL Stainless Steel Shot

    Thumler's Vibratory tumbler are meant to be run wet or dry. I have read that other brands will break down if you switch the barrels, but the only place that I have found that sells the Thumler UV-3 tumbler (http://therockshed.com/tumbler3.html) specifically say that the smaller barrel can be used, and in my own use haven't noticed any detrimental effects. While it might not run as optimally as a tumbler using its designed barrel, it was significantly cheaper purchasing a barrel than buying a new tumbler, although I have plans on purchasing a better one at a future date. On that note, how many pounds does it take to fill that tumbler you referenced to the necessary amount? 50 pounds? It would be the preferable upgrade for me, but shot is a significant cost. So, affinity, are you saying that by adding some cerium oxide or aluminum oxide polishing powder to the shot, I could wear down the the edges on the shot? I plan on ordering a burnishing compound, likely from Rio Grande, I just haven't gotten around to it yet. I've tumbled a few bright aluminum pieces in the shot at its present state with very nice results, but expect that an even better finish, and faster finish, could be achieved with the sharp edges worn down. Thanks for the help.
  8. Metal and Mineral

    Seasoning TRL Stainless Steel Shot

    I purchased 6 pounds of TRL's Stainless Steel Shot, 3 in the ball and 3 in the pin for a good mixture. I've had it running in my Thumler UV-10 Industrial Vibratory Tumbler in a UV-3 Barrel (so I can actually use stainless shot in the machine without using a huge quantity that overloads the tumbler's weight capacity) for about 5 days now, cleaning out the water every day, and regularly checking for correct action, and have only seen a small improvement on the sharp edges that prevent it from being used as shot and requires the seasoning. I'm running them with water and blue dawn dish soap, and am getting the proper cyclonic action. My question is,how long will it take to season the shot so the sharp edges are gone and I can use it for tumbling rings and finished pieces, and could this seasoning be rapidly sped up by using a polishing powder (cerium oxide or aluminum oxide) to abrade away the edges faster, and then switch back to normal burnishing (water and dawn) to restore the work hardened layer that was abraded away?
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