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KB

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About KB

  • Rank
    e^πi+1=0
  • Birthday 08/29/1974

Profile Information

  • Location
    Tropical Island
  • Interests
    Almost Everything
  • Occupation
    Bum
  • The year you started making chainmail
    1993
  1. KB

    Chainmail and Tasers

    Don't taze me bro! But seriously I think the desire for maille to be useful somehow as modern armor has great lure for some. Really any real use at all delights most of us. This electricity business seems a bit more plausible to the layman than a bullet, doesn't it? I don't blame non-technical people for placing bets without having all the information. Put the test tazing up on youtube, please!
  2. KB

    Eight is enough.

    Outstanding concept, excellent execution.
  3. KB

    Scrap Strip "Rings" Ideas

    Scale Scrap Strip Lamellar More ideas free for the taking. Vertical is more authentic. Though, authenticity isn't going to be high on the list if you are building this LOL. So whichever works for you. For the price it would be real armor when you were done. Mild steel hit with a couple coats of krylon would make for some realish protection. Not to mention the Ti sort of deserves some sort of useful end. Might make an interesting sort of Dō-maru... I love repurposing things, and can't get these scrap items out of my head the last few days. Hope someone gets something from them.
  4. KB

    Scrap Strip "Rings" Ideas

    Overlapping the scrings in 6-1 snakeskin. Several different styles of overlapping are possible.
  5. KB

    Scrap Strip "Rings" Ideas

    I was also thinking, and this is sorta weird but, if you got a good ring size going you could build a jap cube weave out of this stuff. Maybe double or triple up the rings and the Scrings.
  6. KB

    Scrap Strip "Rings" Ideas

    Post some pics for us if you have a chance, esp if you put together a piece of the dscale - I have a good feeling about it. I understand you are probably busy building your doomsday machine in the secret lair... If the edges are too sharp for armor, it wouldn't be a big deal to swipe them across a file. I think a curved snip off the corners might let them flow a bit better too? For people with nothing but time on their hands. And four dollars.
  7. KB

    How to wash stainless steel chainmail

    If it is completely stainless steel you can run it through your automatic dishwasher for a total strip down. This technique will corrode most other metals though.
  8. I made a couple drawings and posted them here http://www.theringlord.org/forum/showthread.php?p=461387
  9. Hello maille peoples. Long time no post. I had a couple ideas about the scrap strip rings that you guys can help yourself to, if you like. I can't afford shipping out here but wanted to contribute. I moused up these thingies. Made some shapes and thought about it: offset another layer for double jap : Overlap for dragonscalesque: Snakeskin might be possible. Didn't draw a pic of that.
  10. KB

    What?! Square Maille?! Big Pics

    Might consider placing the closures on a side rather than a corner. Since the rings will tend to orient themselves to rest on the corners where rings can slip past each other especially when two closures align.
  11. KB

    Copper Patination Experiment

    The traditional process you refer to requires only heating the copper to red hot to produce layers of oxides on the surface. The outermost layer of "cupric oxide" is the black stuff you are removing in the quench. Under that is the lovely red "cuprous oxide" that you are revealing. Traditionally the craftsman would use a kind of burnishing tool to remove the cupric oxide layer. Strength isn't super important in a relatively thick, hand hammered art vessel. Red heat isn't a precise term but well into the annealing range. So your useage requires both worlds, thus the resultant conversation. Are you determined not to use a chemical process? I'm not encouraging manual application style patination for maille, since it's very time intesive, and the coatings are mostly iron based. It could be arty but not at all what you seek. BUT there might be a fast way of obtaining the real copper oxide red color without the redheat annealing. The method is using an acetalene torch with an inline vaporized flux device, such as is used in high quality brazing getups. There's basically a pressurized pot of liquified flux that is controlled into the fuel, yielding a green flame that will generate your cuprous oxide directly on the surface without creating the cupric scale. I don't know how hot the item has to get though, if it needs 700+ then another moot point. It would also require some skill in application, but just mentioning it as middle ground I guess. Another log on the fire. gasflux.com is one vendor. There may not be an easy answer other than focusing on work hardening before assembly.
  12. KB

    Copper Patination Experiment

    Gryph, totally hear you on the scale issues, just wondering. If one could get good color in some sort of bronze alloy somewhere under the annealing temp, it's a step to greater end hardness. With minimal work hardening during assembly, one might be able to attain some real strength along with the fancy color. It's the difficult way to do it for sure, I'm just a curious person. Precipitation hardening should work in the numerous bronze alloys to some degree or another, I would think. As to length of soak, I'm not sure about that. Over 24 hours is sounds like overkill. 6+? All this is sorta moot if one reworks the metal after patination. For ease of treatment you could make a little "recoil rig". Wind your coils backwards initially, heat treat, then use the rig to both unspool them and rewind in the normal direction. Should get a decent ammount of work into it and could be fast too. You could also heat-treat loose wire (sans plastic spool) and then make a feeder for your winding rig that forces the wire over a few short, rounded barriers in various directions before making it to the mandrel. Prolly wanna test for brittleness before you run too much material like that through any work rig... copper can get overworked pretty quickly.
  13. KB

    Copper

    Copper is inexpensive (via salvage), readily available in many gauges, colorful, and extremely easy to work. These are reasons that people often choose it over bronze for personal projects, and for toying with AR's and weaves. Many feel brass is a bit gaudy in color, and the resultant patina is less attractive as well, but this is extremely subjective for sure. Most copper lovers also enjoy bronze, but bronze is tougher (for good or bad), more expensive and typically more difficult to source locally. You get what you pay for, you pay for what you need. For a project that requires little structural strength or just for mocking-up a certain ring combo it's about the fastest thing out there next to aluminum. As pointed out there is also market demand for copper jewelry based on pseudo-science. This is not (usually) a reason to make it for yourself, only a possible selling point. Ethics: I generally try not to get in between folks and their placebos, but there's a difference between idly selling copper jewelry to whomever, whatever they think, and actually perpetuating those myths in order to sway a new sucker for a sale. Something to think about, but there's no denying that these beliefs about copper are a major factor in it's retail jewelry popularity.
  14. KB

    Copper Patination Experiment

    Ray, Annealing/hardening of copper/copper alloys works differently than ferrous alloys. With steel, the speed at which you cool the metal after heating to the annealing temp can alter the hardness substantially. Steel cooled slowly in an insulating medium will become annealed as the crystaline structure cascades down to it's simplest form. But cooled quickly in a liquid at a specific temperature can control the crystaline structures created, creating 'hardness'. Then that hardness is usually tempered like you point out to back off the hardness a bit so the item isnt too brittle. Steel has a fantastic set of complex crystaline modes that we can exploit using cooling time to lock crystals in the form we desire. With copper the speed that the metal cools down doesn't effect the resulting hardness. After you have reached annealing temperature, the crystals are allowed to return to an orderly layered structure. Some copper alloys can be quenched or precipitation hardened variously and depending on the alloy and the method, the hardening can be from quenching from higher temp or slow cool from lower temp. Both ways can be used to anneal or to harden it just depends on the alloy. But for pure copper, fine silver, fine gold,(electrum?), the cooling speed will not effect hardness. Same with pure iron and probably a lot of other pure metals. Alloy ratios are the key to creating stable solutions of metal crystals with high strength. Thoughts: Annealing temp of copper is like 700-900F (at 900 it just starts to come unglued). If you don't fully anneal the copper in the first place, by skating the low end of the annealing range, you may be able to retain some bit of hardness. Give you a head start before you coil/work harden. How much color can be produced at ~650F for a long soak? Although the quench shouldnt matter I also wonder how well the scale comes off in the tumbler as opposed to using a quench at all? Thinking of bronze/brass etc.
  15. KB

    New pictures of some old classics

    Your work still inspires! Timeless awesomeness
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