Zlosk

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About Zlosk

  • Rank
    Aspect ratio zealot
  • Birthday 09/14/70

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  • Website URL
    http://www.zlosk.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Evergreen Park (Chicago 'burb)
  • Location
    Evergreen Park (Chicago 'burb)
  • Interests
    Homebrewing, programming, CG
  • Occupation
    Engineer
  • The year you started making chainmail
    2001
  1. Based on an estimate of Geralt's height being 5'-11", or 180 cm (source: https://steamcommunity.com/app/292030/discussions/0/483368433106517315/), each pixel translates into about .09". I measured 30 rows (15 one way, 15 the other) at 138 pixels, or about 12.4". Vertical spacing of rings between rows works out to about .41", so the ring ID needs to be at least that big. Appearance-wise, it looks to me like an aspect ratio in the 4-5 range.
  2. Please realize that the Mailmaker's guide can give you a shirt tailored exceptionally well to your body, by which I mean it will move with you through your entire range of motion, but it also will be near the minimum amount of material (and therefore weight) to do so. The 3 points I brought up in my first post are enough to make a decent shirt, built like a T-shirt. If your chest & belly are about the same size, T-shirts fit great. If they are different, you either deal with it fitting in one area and being tight in another, or going up in size and fitting in one area and being loose in another. Since maille is like a Chinese finger trap, it never really gets loose; it just squeezes to the body and gets longer. My first shirt (16 ga. x 1/4 galvy, short sleeves, mid-thigh) was made in this manner, and works fine, at a weight of 28 lb. It's just heavier than it needs to be, and I could probably shave off a couple pounds.
  3. Trevor Barker's Mailmaker's Guide (thankfully preserved by the Internet Archive at https://web.archive.org/web/20160508055350/http://homepage.ntlworld.com/trevor.barker/farisles/guilds/armour/mail.htm) shows a very good way to incorporate the expansion/contraction, depending on which way you are going. The Hauberk section shows all of the various expansions/contraction areas used in this shirt in the Wallace collection . If you need, I can take pictures of my shirt that I've done this way, but I think that the Guide is easier to understand. Also, I've been where you are with having to tear apart a shirt to deal with tailoring, a few times. It sucks every time, but it's worth it to have a decent-fitting shirt.
  4. There are a few things that I was taught to do to help with the fit of a shirt, which also affects the neck. 1. Because your arms rotate forward more than they do backward, the back of your shirt should be wider than the front of your shirt. I think the normal difference between front and back is about 10". If your back and back of the neck are fairly tight, this adjustment will help. 2. Your head hole should not be exactly centered on the shirt, but should instead be a a little forward. If you are being choked in front and it is loose in the back of your neck, moving the hole forward should help. 3. Even though one's back (and therefore, the shirt) is fairly wide around the shoulderblades, it needs to taper down by the time it gets to the neck. You can choose to do this with contractions, switching to smaller rings for a few rows, or edging the neck with a tighter weave that will pull the neck in. If everything else fits fine, but the back of the neck is still loose, tightening up the back of the neck should help, Whatever your method of contraction, keep the contractions above your shoulderblades.
  5. I like my cheap little linesmans pliers, with worn teeth, broken springs and all. 16 ga 3/16 stainless used to be a massive pain, with occasional slips and hand damage. After switching things up, and essentially going on an unintentional hand strengthening regimen (working on 14 ga x 3/8 stainless, then 5/16, then 1/4), going back to 16 ga x 3/16 felt easy, and slips just stopped. However, during the 14 ga x 1/4 work, there were much slippage and cursing.
  6. That is great. i like the layout, and it has some functionality that I've wanted to add to IGP for years. (Specifically, the ability to create shapes out of the scales (or rings, as would be in my case.)
  7. One of the patterns in IGP is scales. However, IGP requires the initial image to be resized (1 pixel = 1 scale) and posterized (lowering the number of colors in the image to the number of your materials).Various paint applications (such as GIMP or Paint.NET, both available for free) are capable of doing this. You're welcome.
  8. If I'm reading the pattern correctly, it is a half persian 3-1 pattern, but with the rings doubled, effectively make the weave HP 6-2. The ring doubling, however, is not by putting them side-by-side (referred to as kinged), but instead using rings of different sizes, where the OD of one ring matches the ID of the other, and the rings are concentric (referred to as scaled). I have never made Telbaneer, so I am not positive on this, but since normal HP 3-1 generally uses an aspect ratio (AR) around 4, I would estimate that a good starting point for Telbaneer would be to use rings with AR's of 5 and 7 (using the same wire diameter). At least, that's where I would start.
  9. When I've made know row expansions/contractions, I prefer to use rings of various aspect ratios to help ease the transition. Stats for the image are as follows: Gray - 14 ga x 3/8 Orange - 14 ga x 5/16 Yellow - 14 ga x 1/4 Red - (2) 16 ga x 3/16; I did not have any 14 ga x 3/16
  10. If you're planning on hanging the byzantine off of a frame (like the one shown above), "right" and "wrong" ways won't matter for hanging the byzantine chains. If your're hanging the inlay between two dowels, "right" way is likely to require more rings than "wrong" way, as the inlay is going to want to squish together under its own weight, making for more rectangular "pixels" in the image. If you're planning on just having a top dowel and hanging the byzantine off of the inlay itself (which sounds like your intent), you would probably be better off using the "wrong" way hang. I have some patches of Euro 4-1 and various chains around the house. I see what I can mock up and take some pictures of the curl in either direction. I ran my first Super Spartan (8+ miles) in 2012. I still fear the Beast (13+ miles). Congrats on doing Trifectas!
  11. The "wrong" way and "right" way naming convention was not meant to imply that there were right and wrong ways to make inlays, but to try to help people understand which direction the rings would be hanging. When making armor, there really is a "right" and "wrong" way, if your goal is to protect yourself from weapons, and the naming came from that.
  12. I don't think this is quite how the Chinese made their mountain armor. But seriously, that's great!
  13. It really does. If you've got a piece of Euro 4-1 maille handy, hold it "right way" and "wrong way" under gravity. You'll see a massive difference.
  14. For more info on IGP, see the links in my signature. Also, be aware that a hang of a shirt will distort the image - how much distortion exists depends on the body shape of the person wearing the shirt and how well-tailored the shirt is to that person. A good example of this would be Dr. T's panther shirt - the ellipse in the background was originally intended to be a circle.
  15. That is very nice. I found it very easy to understand and use. I especially like the glow around the scale that indicates that the scale is active, and that the appearance is much closer to reality than what IGP offers. The estimated sizes are great, too. Suggestions for improvement: 1. List the sizes and weights in both metric & English units 2. Add labels to the width & height text boxes. 3. In the Tips area, add that Ctrl+0 will restore the default size. 4. Modify the selectable region of the scale to better match the visible region of the scale. If I ever get back to working on IGP again, I will be looking at your interface for inspiration. Excellent job!