Jump to content

dweezle

Members
  • Content Count

    121
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

Posts posted by dweezle


  1. Something I've done before: take a coil of un-cut rings (I used something like .045"x3/16"ID) and stretch it out a bit. Cut the wire at one end so it is pointy enough to pierce the zipper's tape. Attach the stretched coil to the tape - start at one end of the tape and thread the coil onto the edge of the tape until one side of the coil is attached along the length of zipper tape... now un-thread it. Lay your mail out next the tape, align it and spread it out how you want it to be attached to the tape. Also lay down the coil where it will go and make not of how how many revolutions of the coil will pass through each ring in the next step. Now thread the coil back into your premade holes in the tape while also threading it through the edge of your mail. I've found this works best on things where a bit of extra structure around the zipper is helpful.

    http://mailmaker.tripod.com/purse01-3.jpg


  2. I have an antique one made from non-stainless split rings. I use it when I have pots/pans that have stuff really burnt onto them - so not every time I do dishes, but at least a couple times a month... sometimes it ends up in the bottom of my sink and I don't notice it for a few days. Yeah, it gets rusty... but mail has the benefit of being relatively self-cleaning when used as a pot scrubber, and in the process it gets a good coating of oil that probably goes a long ways towards keeping it from turning into a rusted up lump.


  3.  

    I wanted to say that I would never recommend a wood dowel for wrapping wire...

     

    Saw cutting rings involves proper coil support...

    You are right about not using a wooden dowel (or anything soft) to wrap wire around... I've actually noticed the shrinking coil thing happen with a mild steel mandrel after several years of coiling stainless wire on it - it just happens faster and too a more extreme degree with wood... But I don't think that is how BlueNinjaKat is using the wooden dowel. I think BlueNinjaKat is using the wooden dowel for coil support, as they state -  "It is far far far easier and faster to cut rings and cut partially through the wooden dowel in the process, instead of trying to hold a tiny spring".


  4. I've always found that euro 4 in 1 with those specs will start loose rings near the Queen ring after a bit of kicking around... only exception was the welded one. For standard type of rings I always had best results with Japanese 6 in 2 - stainless for the 6 vertical rings and aluminum for the doubled up rings.

     

    My first ones were stuffed with a bit of cloth, but after a while the cloth compacts (probably part of the reason I've never seen a regular hacky sack stuffed with fabric). A looser filling will perform better as long is its not small enough to fit through the weave. A couple that I liked: loose aluminum rings, sometimes I'd link them together into short chains so less would jump out if the hack got a hole in it; airsoft pellets. I also tried dried beans and un-popped pop corn, but the filling got moldy if the hack got wet. also, the beans would get pulverized after a while.  Some people also said that they preferred the japanese weave hacks that I made to not be filled with anything.


  5. sorry, ever since korean war era body armor stopped a 9mm I don't realy trust expert opionion on what is and isn't capable of stopping a bullet.

    Out of curiosity, where did you find the following information:

    List of materials that will stop a .38 caliber bullet...

    64 layers of silk

    150 layers of polyethylene tarp

    40 layers of tent canvas

    10 layers of nylon from a military duffle bag

    20 gauge stainless steel

    16 gauge mild steel

    1/8 aluminum


  6. ...kevlar vest. it's infinitely more effective and lighter, plus it has the added benefit of not depositing shrapnel in the wound.

    I want to start out by saying that I don't know much about ballistics or various calibers of bullets, but my cousin (who does know a bit about those things) and I shot a bunch of maille and I had pictures of the results on my website in the late '90s... unfortunately those seem to have been lost now, but I agree with others that the results of a .45 and a .22 were rather horrifying on a torso-sized rolled up piece of carpet that was wearing a maille shirt.

    The mail in question was 1/4"I'd rings made from 1/16" 316L stainless welding wire, flush-cut butted rings. I don't remember what happened with the 22 rounds other than that they went through the first layer of mail. The 45 tore about a 1" hole in the shirt. When we pulled out the carpet and unrolled it we found a trail of very fragmented, torn, and twisted bits of rings; then eventually found the bullet, very mushroomed out and wearing a sort of little hat made out of torn and twisted rings.

    A while back I found one of the .45 bullets that I had saved.. if anyone is interested I can post a pic, though its no longer wearing its cute little hat of malformed rings.

    I also want to add that we were not shooting it too see if it would stop a bullet, just wanted to see what would happen after we had also tested a few swords and bows.


  7. Simple fact. There are no manufactred washers that I know of that more cost efficient for making maille. Wether you are manufacturing your own rings or buying them washers are more costly than many options.

    Using the little packages of 100 or so washers that you find at a standard sort of hardware or home improvement store does indeed get expensive... but there may be other options that are cheaper. In my state there is a chain of stores called "Mardens surplus and salvage" which is where I buy washers for something like .60 cents per pound. I've heard about similar stores in other states before... mardens is like a department store that sells stuff salvaged from stores that are in disaster areas, as well as overstock junk from other stores, and cheap and poorly made tools. But anyways... yeah, washers can be more cost effective than other materials if you know where to look.


  8. I also work night shift, in a group home for folks with developmental disabilities... I surf the web a lot and sometimes play minecraft, paint, maille, sew... It is indeed a good life, though in about 20 minutes I gotta start getting one of the guys up and ready for his day, then dish out their cocktails of meds and help them get breakfast.

     

    So what were you originally posting about? I've been curious.


  9. Oh that looks awesome!  I love the color of bronze.  What's the advantage of the bronze aluminum alloy?  Cost?  Weight?  Corrosion resistance?

    Thanks, there is no real advantage other than having a different color to work with. There does not seem to be enough aluminum in the alloy to affect the weight, as it seems as heavy as if I had just used bronze. In the ship building industry bronze-aluminum is used because it is more corrosion resistant, but that level of corrosive resistance of one alloy vs another is rarely worth worrying about when it comes to maille garments. 


  10. yes, as twilightbanana says, connecting the ends to make it a continuous loop will work... as will the method he mentions about multible parallel strands. Both keep the twist in the chain by not allowing the ends to un-twist. Another thing that sometimes works is to double up the rings, or sometimes to use smaller rings... example of what I mean by doubling the rings: "kings maille" is euro 4 in 1 with the doubled rings. I actually don't really like the way a spiral chain looks unless the rings are doubled or tripled, and doing so tends to keep it in a better spiral shape.


  11. I used a program called MC Edit to crop a few areas out of the map I've been playing on for a couple years, and made them available for download should anyone wish to check them out. I'd happily share the whole map but its almost 2 gigs and I don't have an internet connection that could upload that much, or space to put it... the files I've uploaded are less than 5mb, but are only small areas with things I've made that I thought people might find interesting - buildings, redstone contraptions, etc... dig in and see how I did some of the redstone stuff, fun stuff to do with monster spawners, or just have fun burning everything down.

     

    This is the first time I've chopped up a map like this or uploaded parts of a map so I hope everything that's needed is there, I think all that is needed to play them is to open the zip folder and put the save file into your minecraft saves folder.

     

    http://mailmaker.tripod.com/mc/mainvillage.zip

    this is a village I started building back when I first started playing, then only recently carted in some villagers. Its a walled village of "houses" which mostly are more like small house-like things made to keep specific sorts of materials. My idea with this was that if I spread my inventory out into sort of a village, with torches lighting up all the buildings, then I would have a larger "safe" area to wander around in at night than if I just kept everything in one building. It eventually grew into a walled village with a fire moat around one side and a cactus/water moat around the other side...

     

    things to see: daylight activated piston doors, pointless sewer system, sliding bookcase in the small keep (there's a fenced in hole in one side of a room in the main keep, toss an item into the hole and the bookcase in the opposite corner slides back... ignore the "super secret vault chest" at the bottom of the ladder, open the door on the side of the shaft - the nether gate at the bottom of the big stairs is a red herring; behind it, as in run strait through not stopping to get sucked into the nether and you'll be in the obsidian lined vault). There's also quite a labyrinth of old mines and tunnels under the village, but probably not much down there that is very interesting.

     

    I just play tested the map after uploading... as I mentioned, I've never done this kind of thing with a map before so it is a little buggy. when it first loaded I was stuck in a weird grey area and could not move... if that happens it should clear up in a minute but you'll have spanned outside of my cropped map section, the edge of which is visible nearby. I noticed that I also tried to include my brewing keep, but for some reason the map editor cut it off at roof level. Following the gravel path should take you to town.

     

    next up is the "Melon Mill"

    http://mailmaker.tripod.com/mc/melonmill.zip

    Again, my apologies for my noobishness in using MC Edit.... you'll spawn pretty deep underwater on this map. After you swim up to the surface start swimming towards the sun. It should not be long before you see some ledgey sort of island to the right, thats where you want to go. The Melon Mill was on an island in an ocean biome. I originally got there after building a straight 1000 block railway through the nether and built a nether portal near the end of it. Going through the portal was the first thing I did in game after the "adventure update" came out, which added hunger and a crapload of other stuff. Passing through the portal I found myself deep underground but eventually made my way to the surface, but it took so long that I was nearly dead from starvation. I killed a zombie and ate it's flesh to survive. The island I was on was barren of any livestock at all, so I decided to do something gardening related... I think this was also the first time I really played around with pistons, and melons were added with the adventure update as well - so I decided to make an automated melon farm (powered by redstone, activated by cactus), later I added machines for harvesting sugar canes, and an auto harvesting mushroom farm (though mushroom growth has since been nerfed, but I think the design and integration into the mill is still kind of fun).

     

    The melon part of the melon mill is the largest blocky structure of the complex. The main switch to turn things on is in the smallest attached building - there's a lever in there that says something like "melon mill breaker switch". Pulling that will get things going, but it takes time to see results... There are 8 cacti in the area above the melon room, every time they try to grow a block higher a cactus block will pop off. Turning on the main switch releases flood gates in the upper part of the melon mill and floats the loose cacti blocks down where they (usually) go onto pressure plates... each pressure plate is part of an individual melon crusher - when a pressure plate is activated a piston extends to close off the passage that goes to that plate so cacti blocks don't just pile up on it (which would keep it forever activated), and a piston with an iron fence "blade" goes down and splits a melon. It can take a few minutes for things to start working, as it counts on cactus growing, and the cactus blocks that pop off to land where the need to go.

     

    The mushroom mill is in the basement, I think it is off the open-air sort of garden cloister. Its sort of a roundish room with a "seed" mushroom on either side of the entry when you go in... those are supposed to spread out onto the floor over time, but mushrooms no longer spread like they used to. Dont go down the hole in the center of the room... pull the lever by the entry and the pistons around the edge of the room (which is built into the side of an undersea cliff) will retract and wash things down the hole in the center of the room. The mushrooms can then be gathered in the Shroomateria which can be found by going down some stairs somewhere.

     

    The sugar can mill is not very impressive... pull the lever in that wing of the complex to turn on the powered rails. I think the cart has to be nudged a bit to get it going, then it runs along a track and activates pistons that trim the sugar canes, and some of them wash down to a central collection. Other cool stuff... I started a library of sorts that was going to have storage for every kind of block. I think at least one of my deep-sea exploration platforms is just off shore - I started making those as a safe and neat looking way to get to the ocean floor. There's a small room in the mill complex that has a bed and some book shelves - I made this as a more complicated version of the sliding bookshelf in my original village... it takes two items tossed into the garbage disposal to open the secret door, which goes down to a hallway under the mill. 

     

    Also of interest, though might be a bit harder to find, is the skeleton spawner trap that is not too deep under the mill... skeletons pop out of the spawner (in a glassed in room) and are washed down to a "lava blade" which kills them, then their goodies flow out of a little hole and can safely be picked up. Easiest way to find that is probably to go into the small squarish building (that might look kind of like an American Rev. War era blockhouse style fort) that is surrounded by fences and kind of up on a corner of the island... go in there and go down to the basement, then go down the ladder to the underground access tunnels that go to most of the other buildings... kind of right across from where the ladder comes out is the library of minerals, to the right is the main passage that goes over to the mill, to the right is a less nicely made tunnel that turns and goes down some stairs - go down there, down the hall a short ways, and its just around the corner down the stairs on the right (not through the fence, stand around in that area for a bit and you should here the smeletons making their noises).

     

    I think my walled town/village and the melon mill are probably the best places I've made, I'll try to get better with MC Edit and get the spawn points placed in better areas and make sure I'm not chopping off the tops of tall buildings like I did with the alchemy keep outside of town. Maybe sometime later I'll upload some of my other places, but they are mostly just small castle-like manor houses without much interesting redstone stuff going on.... though I should upload Riftville, which has a zombie slaughter house built above two zombie spawning dungeons that I found really close to each other.


  12. By my count there are 1712 of the flat links from bike/roller chains, two sizes of those links can be found in most bike chains and both of these were used in tailoring the coset - note that most of the bust area is of the large size link, and large links have also been worked in below the waist to create expansion areas over the hips. I'm not sure yet on ring counts for the standard round maille links connecting them, or the number of bushings (used in the trim around the bottom) and roller bearings (two sizes used as lacing points) that were used.


  13. hmm.. I don't think rain will make it go away. If you can get within reach of the block where you first placed the lava then you should be able to scoop up the "lava source block" and the rest of the lava that is flowing from it will slowly trickle down and dry up... I'd probably use something that will not burn,like cobblestone, to build a walkway/bridge to reach the lava's source block.

     

    shears and flint & steel are both effective ways of clearing trees. With shears you'll get a lot of leaf blocks that make nice hedges, with flint & steel you might set other things on fire too.


  14. yeah, can do a lot of fun stuff with redstone. I use it a lot for making sliding doors... the little castle in my main village has a bookshelf that slides back when an item is dropped down a garbage shoot, then a passage going down to the vault with all my record vault; the wall around the village has gates that automatically close at night and open in the morning. Automated farming stuff is fun to design as well.


  15. I rarely use the powered carts, a lump of coal doesn't power them long enough to be of much use on my rail systems. I prefer the powered rails instead, though they do not work well for moving chest-carts... but they are great for moving carts with a mob or player riding in them... not sure how many blocks it was, but I moved several villagers in carts a distance that took just over a day to travel by rail using the powered booster tracks.


  16. There probably is or was, but I a quick and easy answer for how to do this is to simply use Dremel or similar tool with a small grinding stone to reshape one of the jaws... there is one jaw of the cutter that gets stuffed into the center of the coil. Use the grinder to remove material from that jaw until it fits into the coil. Work slowly, taking time as needed to let the metal cool down if it gets hot... Do not let the metal get hot enough to start changing color or you will ruin the temper and have a nice pair of soft metal cutters.


  17. Sphere of Influence is rather cool. Not so sure about the other piece. Just the variation of colors yes and kudos to the person that spent time working on it. The Sphere of Influence reminds me of a cube that someone made here with glass marbles or something. Not sure who made it.

    Its mostly nostalgic sort of reasons that those are my favorites...

    The vase because it hails from early in the days of maille basketry, and while I've seen people make some amazingly complicated maille baskets with fancy bottoms and all manor of weaves hanging off the sides or around the top - but this is the only one I've seen built up into more of a vase-like shape.

    The Sphere of Influence is the only thing I've seen made with my Byzantine Web Square Cube weave (other than my conceptual sample), and was once said to be dedicated to the creator of that weave, thus making it one of my favorites :)


  18. That is absolutely gorgeous. I'm reminded of Turkish mail-and-plates hauberks, but this is also just...elegant.

    thanks, it's been a while in the making as I had never made a corset before, pioneered new ways to use materials, and tore it to pieces several times as I had to economize usage of the roller chain parts. yes, I was also reminded of the Turkish mail-and-plates peices while I worked on this. There are a couple things I would do differently if I make something like this again - slightly curve/dish the roller chain links as needed; and if possible use small split rings rather than standard maille rings, or weld them; also the weave along the bottom does not hang quite as I intended for visual affect, though structurally it does what I wanted it to.


  19. ahhh.. non-maille favorites opens up far too many choices for me, especially when choosing between some of my own work and someone else's. Thats going to be a nice looking ring, reminds me of some twisted copper/bronze and sterling/rose gold ring designs I toyed around with a few years ago... if you don't mind answering, is it a silver/copper twist filled with solder? 

     

    If I had to choose a non-maille favorite for myself I would probably settle on one of my current projects which is my new helmet for fencing in the Society for Creative Anachronism, can be seen in my avatar/profile pic.

×