Rob MacLennan

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About Rob MacLennan

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    Brampton, Ontario, Canada

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  1. If only all my wire was spooled......
  2. I organize by material, then size and gauge, since I'll be working in a single material more often.
  3. To Zlosk's point #3, I find that edging the neck in Half Persian does a pretty nice job of helping to pull things in.
  4. I haven't worked with painted scales, myself. All my scale work has been done with shiny aluminum scales, shiny anodized aluminum scales, coloured anodized aluminum scales, and brass scales. My personal preference is for 'normal' rings but I think that split rings would tend to be easier to work with, especially if you got a set of split ring pliers to use them with. It's like threading keys onto a key ring.
  5. The bright anodized aluminum scales are VERY shiny and they only come 10 to a package, whereas the regular anodized small scales come in bags of 100. The Black Ice scales do look very nice and are more of a shiny dark grey than black, but that would be a rather expensive piece you would be making. If you want something that is silver but not highly reflective, then the Frost scales might be more what you are looking for. They have a matte finish on them, rather than a polished and shiny finish. They're a little further down the page from the Bright Anodized scales and are available in bulk bags of 1500, so are somewhat more economical.
  6. The picture is rather small, but it looks like those are small scales. For small scales you connect them with small split rings or 3/16", 18 gauge rings. The split rings can be ordered on the Small Scales page of The Ring Lord's website and the rings can be found on the page for the appropriate material rings. If using regular rings with a project that large I would recommend using a stronger material like stainless steel, so the weight doesn't start pulling the rings open. One thousand small scales are required to create a piece which is a little over 30cm x 30cm in size. You will need roughly twice as many rings as scales for the project. You'll want to get somewhat more than twice as many rings, as additional rings can be used to "stabilize" the bottom row of scales in the project.
  7. Could you post a picture of the technique that couldn't work out? **Moving to a more appropriate sub-forum**
  8. Anodized Ti wouldn't be all that subtle, but would definitely be costly. *EDIT* Instead of accenting with colour, you could use square wire rings. That would certainly stand out.
  9. Copper is softer than both brass and bronze, so I would use either of those before considering copper. Too bad the stock of Nickle Silver isn't being kept up, because that would make a good option.
  10. That link is 9 years old. Unfortunately that doesn't seem to be carried anymore. The finished chain supplies can be found here:
  11. Steel, or aluminum? Either will open over time under load, but carbon steel, spring steel, or stainless steel will stand up much better, requiring minimal maintenance.
  12. Unfortunately I have neither. I have managed to locate several American suppliers who stock replacement parts for this tumbler, none of whom actually list the particulars. I've placed an order with one of them as the belt ultimately failed last night, and the cost involved is minimal.
  13. Do you have recommendations on where to acquire replacement belts for the tumblers, in particular the Model T Rotary Tumbler? I've been running mine almost non stop since receiving it and can see that the belt is loosening up significantly, so I'd like to have replacements on-hand before I actually need them.
  14. For large scales you want to use 5/16", 16 gauge rings. The pliers you mentioned should be a good choice, unless you have rather large hands.
  15. The smaller scale would need to be attached to the larger one, not the grid as a whole, or it would be the limiting factor on the whole build. That means more rings, which would have an effect on the lay of the scale on top of that one.