Rob MacLennan

Depends upon the permissible sizes and gauges for a given weave, how stiff or loose you want the weave to be, overall finished size, and the look you're going for.

And yes, you could alternatively use something like 5 triangular sections, with 45 degree joins, to make the bottom of the bag. I frequently use this method to make the top of coifs.

And if you're at all interested in "Elvish" from other than a Tolkien source a friend is soon going to be publishing an Elvish dictionary including a grammatical primer, based on the web series "JourneyQuest" (the writing of which he is largely responsible). He's already released the second edition of his English/Orcish dictionary. This is the English/Orcish Dictionary: https://www.amazon.com/Orcish-English-Dictionary-Reference-Travelers-Merchants/dp/1982991283/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1548267755&sr=8-23&keywords=matt+vancil ... and this is an example of how it has been used (extended conversation at the 4:15 mark). I expect his Elvish to be as comprehensive:

Keep in mind that the holes in the large scales are approx. 5/16" in diameter, which is why you normally use 5/16" - 16 gauge rings, and adjust your work accordingly.

Just a thought: Have you looked to see if there are any German chainmailing Facebook groups? I would think that might get you the numbers that you need to make an order viable.

You may find this chart to be of assistance. http://www.theringlord.com/AspectRatio.pdf

When I was making bracelets for a charity event, I took my colour inspiration from the colours used by various motorcycle manufacturers. Given that it was a charity motorcycle ride, they were pretty popular. Honda: red & white Kawasaki: green & black Yamaha: yellow & black Suzuki: blue & white

The contractions/expansions with 6-in-1 aren't much different but you have to remember that each one doesn't buy you as much change as they do in 4-in-1. I've both tailored an already complete shirt and tailored as I go, and I prefer to tailor as I go. There might still be some fiddling needed after completion, but you're much closer to your final product. If you prefer you could do a 4-in-1 overall with regions of 6-in-1 in patches, to increase the overall weight. It wouldn't be as heavy as a full 6-in-1 or dense 4-in-1, but would be easier to work with.

Getting ready for GenCon? The larger the scales, the faster things would go. Given your available time and the fact that this will be your first project, small scales would be really ambitious. I would say that you're better off to go with medium, or even better large scales. Plastic scales would be lighter and, therefore, less fatiguing in the heat. Anodized aluminum scales would be somewhat heavier but more durable, so likely less repairs needed.

I like the chisel nose pliers, on the top of the pliers page, for smaller rings. Any of the needlenose pliers like KX475 would also be good, though I tend to grind the tips a bit wider out of personal preference on needlenose. http://theringlord.com/cart/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=69&cat=Pliers

Scales would be one way to add weight, but you would be sacrificing flexibility. You could do something like 5/16", 16 gauge stainless steel in a European 6-in-1 pattern to add weight. It would sacrifice some flexibility but not as much as scales, and would require approximately 50% more rings.

I've seen similar on Etsy. Try searching there for "jewelry bar spacer."

With 3/16", 16 gauge scales if you are making a sheet of scales, you would end up with a virtually vertical stack instead of a sheet. I'm with TitaniumMithril; use stronger material, rather than thicker material.

"Stabilizing" the edge with full 4-in-1 will help somewhat, as in this picture.