Rob MacLennan

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About Rob MacLennan

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    http://www.morallyambiguous.net

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    Brampton, Ontario, Canada

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  1. Sorry, I didn't notice that the link didn't take.
  2. Watch the technique in this video. As you twist the rings closed, you can ease the cuts closer together.
  3. Yes, it's 1000 small scales per square foot.
  4. Saw cut rings have a nicely finished edge that is suitable for jewellery. Machine cut are fine for use with scales, as they are largely concealed behind the scales. This link explains saw cut vs. machine cut rings: http://theringlord.com/cart/shopcontent.asp?type=RingCutDetails This link helps to calculate the number of scales needed to make a shirt. Unfortunately it is in inches rather than centimetres, so you would need to convert: http://theringlord.com/cart/shopcontent.asp?type=ScaleCalculator
  5. You can get a little sneaky with it. Up one side leave out a column of scales, leaving a slit part way up from the bottom, then "stabilize" it with rings. Use the rings to run a lace on that side so that you can tie it closed once it's been put on. This also allows you to use expansions and contractions to be a more accurate fit, but still get the thing on
  6. Pages may fall, but Pinterest is forever. This is it, isn't it? https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/12807180161548608/?autologin=true
  7. AR = Aspect Ratio; the ratio of wire diameter to the inside diameter of the ring. http://theringlord.com/cart/shopcontent.asp?type=aspectratio
  8. I tumble with dry corn cob or walnut shell media for cleaning.
  9. I ultimately caved and went for a semi-custom gambeson from Armstreet, after hearing good things about them, rather than making my own. I'll concentrate on what I know how to do.
  10. I've already found info on the targe. Tandy Leather also has instructions available. http://www.instructables.com/id/Tooled-Targe-Shield/
  11. I would really like to use a router instead of a drill as the power source, because I could more easily bolt a router to a plate at a perfect 90 degree angle, but the speed of the router would tear up the blade in no time even with constant lubrication/cooling. My speed control can't drop the 10K rpm router's speed sufficiently, but it does a great job with the drill. I used HDPE (high density polyethylene) to make the cutting base because I have a local source and it can be cut with regular woodworking tools. For the next rig I'll likely work up a 3D diagram and see if a local company can machine it for me out of aluminum. I'd like to make a leather targe for myself but, given that I'm currently working on a welded stainless chain shirt for myself, I don't really have the time.
  12. TRL does sell an arbor for use with a Dremel. It's on the same page I previously linked. Saw blades are also there. Different arbors take different blade sizes, so be careful to get the right size. The blades are 0.008" or 0.010" thick, so significantly thinner than a cutting wheel. I use a drill rather than a Dremel, because a drill has more torque. This means that it can be used at lower speeds, which avoids prematurely burning out the blade. You need to secure the coil in some way, to avoid creating shrapnel. The blade is in the middle of my cutting block, so that the cut rings are held in place.
  13. That's how the contractions work. You're periodically eliminating one row of rings, to reduce the width of the piece. Three going in, two going out. Yup, that's my jig. I bought the Jeweler's Sawblade and the chuck it goes into from The Ringlord (listed in the tools/saw cutting tools section). There's no tutorial for it, but the concept is pretty simple. The block has a groove in it for the coil to slide along. The top plate and springs hold pressure on the coil so it doesn't move while cutting. there's a slot in the bottom that the saw blade protrudes through so that it can cut the bottom of the coil, thereby creating rings out of it. It's powered by a drill. There are a few pics of the completed unit at the bottom of this page: http://www.morallyambiguous.net/multimedia/gallery/index.php/chainmail?page=2 Ultimately I want to make a similar rig using aluminum extrusion, like 80/20, and add a cutting lubrication system. That should let me cut harder metals. If you don't want to go through the bother of making something like this yourself, do a Google search for "Ringinator." He's got a pretty well sorted solution.
  14. Don't know why I didn't think of Skall.
  15. You're not likely to find pictures of actual original chain that has been damaged by weapons. It was generally either repaired quite quickly, or chopped up and used in other pieces. I would say just do what feels right to you, since you aren't going for historical accuracy anyway. Maybe just throw a Wolverine slash on it and have done?