Rob MacLennan

Do you know anyone who has a vibratory tumbler, like those used to clean shell casing for reloading? The best way that I have found to clean oxide (rust, etc.) off rings is to put them in a vibratory tumbler with either crushed walnut shell of corn cob dry tumbling media for a couple of days.

Hi Daffodil, Could you please repost this request in the appropriate thread, in TheTheRinThegLord Stock Updates sub-forum?

The other gambeson that I have, that I mentioned was my first, is the Arthur Gambeson. When I received mine there were no ties for the sleeves and tassets. I found that some black paracord was a cheap solution.

In this case you don't need to worry about the AR. The important thing with the large scales is that the rings be 5/16", so that they match the holes and spacing of the scales. You want to use 5/16", 16 gauge rings if saw cut or machine cut rings are employed, but the split rings are also specifically for this purpose.

Especially when you're paying $0.75 or less on that sale dollar

I checked Calimacil before posting it and they're currently having server issues, but were fine a little earlier in the day. They'll likely be good to go again tomorrow and I wanted to make sure to include them, as they have frequent sales. If I was doing combat, I wouldn't want the buckles on the Armstreet gambeson. they're just something to transmit impact energy to the body. Since I will occasionally be wearing it by itself, I like the fancy look of them

In the spirit of full transparency, I have the Armstreet "Asian Gambeson." If money weren't an object I'd recommend them, because they're semi-made to measure. I wouldn't do a pull-over type gambeson. To get it on easily it would have to be a bit large on you, which could equate to uncomfortable folds under the shirt. What would be more economical for you depends on where you are. I'm in Canada and my first gambeson purchase was from the UK; a place called LARP Inn. They were a joy to deal with, but the shipping costs to Canada were painful at the time. I then discovered that much of that sort of thing seems to be made in Quebec, Canada. If you're in the US you could likely save a bunch due to the depressed Canadian Dollar, by buying from someone there. Some of the stuff at Medieval Collectibles seems to be sourced there. http://www.en.calimacil.ca/ https://www.epicarmouryunlimited.com/ Hopefully some of the more experienced SCA combat types will be along, presently, with more fulsome advice

... like embedding it in open-hang 4-in-1, with tension on it.

Which is why the location of the electrodes on the TRL welder is particularly good. A roughly 45 degree angle redirects half the force into pinching the ring's gap during welding.

I typically don't hold for more than a second or two, but Lorenzo would be the expert.

My only experience has been hosing off a finished piece with a soap dispensing car cleaning nozzle and the inside was soaking wet. Then again rain doesn't hit at 90 degrees, under pressure.

If they're already reasonably close, then you're minimizing the heavily heated area. I was afraid that you might have them quite far apart.

Are your electrodes placed fairly close together, as in the TRL welder?

There's likely some form of adjustment hidden in its carcass. Perhaps both duration and strength of pulse. If so, then the 'conversion' would be easy. *EDIT* In my searches I've turned up more than a few Chinese dental welders that have very similar cases to the old TRL welder.

I've wondered if something like this might be adaptable to ring welding. https://www.harborfreight.com/120-volt-spot-welder-61205.html