Rob MacLennan

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About Rob MacLennan

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    Brampton, Ontario, Canada

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  1. Have you heard of Plasti Dip? It's a rubberized coating you can apply in either spray or dip form. It looks like you could plug the ends and seams of those pliers' handles, then dip them to get a somewhat softer grip on the handles.
  2. You may find this link of assistance. My own preference at the elbow would be to use plain chainmail in the inside, as there would be less material to be compressed when you bend your arm, but it wouldn't be a necessity. As Konstantin says a little expansion baggy-ness at the outside of the elbow would give room for movement.
  3. You'll need 1000 small scales per square foot, when using the recommended ring size, so you just need to determine how many square foot the project will require.
  4. EVA foam. Cut pattern. Heat with heat gun to open up the lines. Still heavy, but less so than scales. Or use plastic scales and paint to suit. Lighter than metal but, with the support and rings needed, still likely damned heavy.
  5. What about something like this? They're a sew-on type but a goodly number of loops of strong thread, like upholstery thread, would hold them in place. Or perhaps sew through to a small leather backing? Here's a quick shot of one with a dime for scale.
  6. The last large scale piece that I made got hung in a tree, first sprayed with dish soap and hot water from one of those car washing nozzles, was then thoroughly rinsed with more warm water, and left to air dry for a couple of hours.
  7. Pretty much anything is possible but you would have to consider things like weight and support structure. The picture looks sort of like a "hoop skirt", covered with scales. The weight, even using anodized aluminum scales, would be considerable and would require some sort of harness to hold up. You would want to try and figure out how many square feet it would be so that you could calculate the number of scales (of whatever size) and rings, yielding an ultimate approximate weight. That would tell you if it's feasible to make. Maybe this will help some?
  8. Using something like The Ringinator to saw cut rings will give you a nice, clean cut. I built something similar, myself, for the cutting of aluminum, copper, brass, and bronze. Heavy bolt cutters give a sort of half cut, half mashed break that works well. If you check the tools/cutters section of the TRL website, they show what sort of cut their various tools give. What you use also depends on what material you intend to cut.
  9. The ones sold in bags of 10 are "premium bright anodized" scales. They're quite a bit more shiny than the regular anodized ones, but that comes at a cost. Because of that I would tend to use them more for jewellery or accents on a larger piece, rather than making a large piece out of them. But that's just me
  10. The straps can be made in the same direction as the main body, at a 90 degree angle as you have done, or at a 45 degree angle. It's all up to how you want the final product to look. It would be worth it to sit down for a few minutes and make a rough sketch of how you want it to look when finished, so that you have a clear image in your head of how to proceed.
  11. and CLOSED.
  12. I happen to have a project with me that a co-worker wanted to see so.... OPEN
  13. Nicely done
  14. Nice How did you finish the bottom?
  15. No, not mine. I don't have that particular skill, nor anywhere to reasonably exercise it. I picked the image up here and should have cited the source: And if you would like to see examples on how that sort of thing is created, David Guyton is a good source: I wouldn't exactly say they're a little more loose. The common way of weaving scale isn't full 4-in-1 though you can do that, or use 4-in-1 for edging the work. I might refer to it as 'more open' than 'more loose.'