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Rob MacLennan

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Posts posted by Rob MacLennan

  1. 1 hour ago, kindyr said:

    Thank You!  And seeing the model you received I can definitely see where it appears to be based on a Dental welder.  The one in the manual I linked must be an older variant of their resistance welder.


    There were some early pictures/videos made using a prototype. I would say that the final model was based on exactly this model of welder given that the controls are identical, and the hole placement in the case appears to be the same (minus the mounting points for the electrodes on the TRL unit, which would likely just be holes drilled in the casing).


  2. 4 hours ago, kindyr said:

    Would you be able to post up pictures of the unit you received?  I would love to see a unit in the field as it were. what material do you primarily use it for and are you satisfied with it's performance? anything you would change?


    I bought it specifically to make a chainmail shirt in 16 Gauge, 5/16" stainless. I didn't set up a gas hood so the welds are more brittle than they otherwise would be but as I'm not using it for actual combat, it's not an issue. I also have some low carbon steel rings, that it works beautifully on and have been meaning to get some high carbon steel rings just to test out. I can do better than pictures, but please don't criticize my crappy process or videographic skills ;)

    What would I change? The fore-mentioned gas hood would help. I bought a cheap Chinese made pulse arc welder and have been thinking about adding a gas feed to it somehow, though that would likely be cost prohibitive.

  3. 1 hour ago, kindyr said:

    To my eye, the resistance welder really looks like an import spot welder such as the HF, https://www.harborfreight.com/120v-spot-welder-61205.html

    with specialized tips add, and the switch on the unit swapped for a foot activated timer circuit.   the pictures on page 11 of the guide that is still up


    makes sense to me, but it doesn't have a picture inside the little black box of the timer.    it appears to be a potentiometer driven circuit, likely using a 555 timer chip to set the on time in milliseconds.  But even knowing that, I am unclear if a 555 timer circuit is still the best option out there. 

    if TRL was still offering this unit, or even the timer portion, I'd probably just purchase to have a known tech.  But clearly there wasn't enough demand for the unit to support continued production(completely fair), but the details of inside the timer circuit also don't seem to be readily available at this time.  I found a timer circuit on ebay that I think will work, that uses a digital display for showing the time set, so I'm hoping that will allow me to have better, repeatable control of the timer than just the potentiometer would give. that timer is currently in customs in China, so still looking at other options and just trying to gain better understanding of options to make the best DIY-ish spot welder I can.

    I'll update when I have it in hand regarding its usefulness in an MOT driven resistance welder.




    I got one of the last three welders that they had in stock, a few years back. The controls and casing remind me of this type of dental welder that I found online, when trying to help others find something they could use. I found several similar units at the time.


  4. I had a similar issue a while back. The first thing that I had to do was stop thinking like I was making armour for a human shape. I ended up thinking more along the lines of making a sock to go along the body, rather than having the armour hang like it would on a human. No pattern; just straight out of my head. Getting the dimensions right would be important and the leg holes could hold the armour in place, so that it doesn't slide up the body. You would likely need to lace it closed along the belly if you went this way.


  5. 9 hours ago, Nyx said:

    I agree with toothless pliers. That's mainly what I use. A heard a suggestion a long time ago using Plasti Dip or something like it on pliers, but I'm not sure how that affects grip as I've never tried it myself.

    I tried it and wasn't really happy with the results. Under pressure the teeth start cutting the PlastiDip from the inside and it eventually splits. Removing and redoing it is a pain. If you want to go that way then getting pliers with replaceable plastic jaw covers is likely the better way to go, though it does work well to replace the handles on cheaper pliers. Dip 2 or 3 times to get the desired thickness of handle.

  6. Nope, looks like it's been toast for more than a year now. I didn't really go there for anything other than the odd weave instructions and haven't done that for a couple of years now, at least. The last post seems to explain their demise and there has been nothing posted since. The forum gives a "forbidden" error. I'd say that their database is well and truly pooched.

    MAIL is Back Online... Mostly
    (Posted: 2020-05-19) by Daemon_Lotos (PM)

    Hi Folks,

    After a ~12hr code and database dive, the site is back online. I've confined it to a read-only state as I slowly bring everything else back online.

    Articles, Weaves, Gallery Items, Downloads, the Glossary, and the FAQ are all up and running.

    Logins, the Forum, and Submissions are all currently being held offline.

    Please note that this is out of an abundance of caution, the remaining functions and features of the site will be returning in the coming days.

    There may be a few tiny broken things around, please don't fret if you notice a bug. They'll all get dealt with as I go through the entire codebase, line by line.
    Once the forums are back up, I'll be taking Bug Reports for any outstanding bugs I haven't caught.

  7. On 6/1/2021 at 8:21 AM, MobileRez said:

    Figured everything out and finished my  first piece. It has way to much room in the back so i need to probably add a few contractions somewhere.


    I'm working on a female form and working around the Brest area.  it seems like I am just supposed to add contractions to make it fit the cupped form but it removes a lot of colums to do so. if that is the case why doesn't doing expansions do the reverse? i feel like I'm missing something

    It all depends on what sort of pattern you're using. If you're working with a pattern of 45 degree angle joins, then there may be some inherent flaring anyway. This would mean that you don't necessarily have to add any expansions along the breast line. Even using a straight hang pattern the rings will tend to open along the swell, so you would just need to contract to follow the curvature of the breast. I use both expansions and contractions, to try and make the piece better follow the body of the wearer in a closed hang.


  8. On 3/16/2021 at 8:33 PM, lorenzo said:

    Based on the amount of distortion, cropping and other manipulation in that photo she has a lot of imperfections. lol.

    Typical magazine shot editing, unfortunately. Take a truly beautiful woman and then treat her as if she's less so, by manipulating the image to accentuate some things, minimize others. Undoctored shots of Kunis show that she has come pretty far from the child actress who lied about her age to get on a wildly popular sitcom.

    There's an actress that I vaguely know, who is built literally like a comic book superhero (34DD, with a 23 inch waist, and far from a Kardashian style bottom), purely by genetics. No surgery. A couple of years ago I stumbled across some professional shots that were taken of her and could easily make out that the photographer had performed similar edits on her. It was shot in a bedroom and there was a bed behind her, with vertical lines on the quilt. The lines SHOULD have been straight, but made obvious curves around her obvious curves. it disgusted me that someone would do that. To her credit this actress now, on her Instagram, makes sure to post any and all edits that have been made to a picture.

  9. It can happen due to illness, as it did in Kunis's case, but some are born with it. Bilateral ("full") heterochromia, like she has, is pretty rare (like 1/2000). No idea about the more common version that we have. Odd thing is that my father has blue eyes, my mother has green eyes, and I'm their only child (of three) with heterochromia.

  10. Could be, but I was putting that down to them using a not so sharp blade to cut them (like a press or the like).

    *EDIT*  I didn't realize that Kunis has bilateral heterochromia (her left eye is brown and the right is green). I only noticed when I looked at the picture at 100% zoom. When I saw that, I did a quick search and confirmed it. I find it interesting because I have centre heterochromia (centres of both eyes are blue, while the surrounding iris is green).

  11. Very interesting. I couldn't find an online link to the March issue of Allure Magazine, which this picture is apparently from, so no idea if they say what the dress is made of. Looking at it though, I would say that it's a thin flexible plastic, to match the clear "scales" that they used around the waist. Punching 5 hols in everything probably just made sense from a production point of view. Or they just screwed up and had to change the hole placement, because I can't seem to find a single instance in which the "top" hole was used. Or they're repurposed from something else entirely...

    *SIDE NOTE* - Some unscrupulous individual is already selling this picture on eBay.

  12. 3 hours ago, bjorn said:

    What weight leather do most people use for different projects.

    One example is workable leather armor for the SCA or another fighting group.

    The other one is leather cuffs or collars.

    Just trying to suss out where to branch off next

    For different projects you need to consider not only the weight of the leather you use, but also the type. Does it need to stand up on its own, or do you want it to give like cloth? And are you going to dye it yourself, "age" it with wax and friction or conditioners, or do you want to work with pre-dyed and finished leather? The hat that I pictured, above, was un-dyed 5 oz leather for the "crown", because it needs to be thick enough to hold its shape, with un-dyed 3 oz leather for the brim (stiffened around the outside edge with 16 gauge stainless steel wire).

    I have a "double shoulder" of 7 oz (3.5mm thick) veg tan leather that would likely be considered armour grade by the SCA because, well, it is. I struggle for an idea of what to do with it. So far I've made precisely one coaster out of it, a second in the works, that I burned a pattern into with a laser engraver. I want to make some pauldrons and greaves with it but, as you can imagine, even my sharpest utility knife and a great deal of sweat is required to make a dent in the stuff. Cutting, wetting, and heat forming it is going to be a major project for... someday. Maybe I need a band saw...?

    But then I made three "Indiana Jones" style hats using strictly 3 oz, oil tanned finished leather because I wanted something that had more give/was more cloth-like. I used the same leather to make several belt bags since I have two "sides" of it (basically a whole cow's worth).

    So in short I'd say consider first what you want to make, before you ask the question, "With what?"


  13. 23 hours ago, MobileRez said:

    Different set of questions to throw out.


    Any tips for doing the tweaking for fittings and working with forming scale shirts to a more feminine form / chest area? I have a mold of the upper body I'll be working with but I'm not sure how to give it form.

    Lorenzo will be a much better source of information for this but, as he hasn't responded yet, I'll pitch in from what little experience I have. I've only made two scale pieces for women (maybe a dozen chain pieces) and in my limited experience it's just being on your expansion/contraction game. The two pieces that I made were for use by..... let's just say petite, but almost comically endowed women, using large scales. From the neck down to the top of the chest was pretty much a straight scale piece. Don't think that I added more that a couple of expansions. Just past the transition point of the chest I started with contractions. Starting at the transition point didn't work for me, as it started a "gather" too early. Long the curvature of the back I added a couple of contractions, to follow. Obviously small scales will require more contractions, however, you can space them better, both horizontally and vertically, to make the curve appear more smooth.

  14. 13 hours ago, MobileRez said:


    Ah, that's the one used as an example on the projects page of the ring lord store page. I actually was thinking more about this while posting and did a few tests and marked 2 areas I might be starting the increase.  Looks like that one starts the arm increase around 8 rows in which ends up being one of the rows I taped off to start. 


    The worry then is being able to get it off the duct tape mold... And then I'll have to actually settle on a color for me as I can't wear the one I'm working on during transport or for my own tests.... I wonder what color of scale is the closest to mithril appearance wise? ( not counting the precious metal ones .... Way to expensive for my giant torso)

    Amy ideas on that?

    Since Mithril, aka "True Silver", is supposed to pretty much look like silver but be lighter and stronger than steel, you could pretty much go for any silverish metal that you prefer. You could go with shiny anodized aluminum or, if you don't mind the weight, stainless steel. If you really wanted to break the bank, without going as far as selling your liver, you could use plain titanium when it's back in stock.

  15. 20 minutes ago, MobileRez said:

    Yes I made a scale flower in my car while waiting for someone to get done with working and an order to arrive. My first attempt with that environment was horrible I weaved multiple rows together. 


    The responses are interesting. Mostly it's "that's cool" but there is also "I wouldn't have the patience for that" or my favorite "why would you want to do that(mailing), seems pointless"

    Can't say that I've gotten the last comment ever, but definitely the first two. Rather interestingly the "patience" comment has frequently come from people who do other labour intensive thing like knitting, or needlepoint. Two of them I convinced to go to a local gaming tavern for a beginners' class. One now occasionally takes out her gear and plays around with it, while the other has become an avid mailer and makes jewellery.

  16. 3 minutes ago, MobileRez said:

    I agree. I ask some of these questions as you learned some of these things. But at the same time there is stuff I can't learn by asking a question, but by doing.


    For example. Trying to make scalemail in a moving car, or by just the light of a tv, and coming back to see what I really ended up doing and having to fix it

    You'll be amazed at what/where you can do with chainmailing, when the motions have been locked into kinesthetic memory.

  17. 1 hour ago, lorenzo said:

    You're definitely overthinking how to go about the process, it's a learning process and involves making mistakes. It's far more important to just dig into it. Most of the weaves I've made started out as mistakes. As always the potential in being self taught is having a fresh perspective to make new discoveries from and the pitfall is becoming stuck in your ways and not learning from the discoveries of others.

    The 45 degree seam does just join two identical weaves that are rotated at 90 degrees to each other.

    Hell, the second and third chain shirts that I made were cut up to make something actually decent, shortly after the third was completed. I had learnt so much and gotten so much faster at weaving that I couldn't stand to look at them anymore. I even asked an actress friend to send a piece back to me, across the border, because I know that I could do far better on it.

    Mistakes happen and we learn from them. Even if all that we learn is, "Don't do that again."