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About ksoe

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  1. ksoe

    Matte coloured rings

    Hi Martin, have you any idea where I can buy enamelled copper wire?
  2. ksoe

    Matte coloured rings

    Hi all, I've just been informed that the enamelled copper rings will be discontinued at TRL shop, which is a shame because I've had really great results with the flesh coloured enamelled copper rings. I will continue to buy from the store for as long as I can but I will have to look for other ways to achieve a similar result. I like to work in silver or copper because of the softness, and also colour, so enamelled copper has been a good choice. I don't like the anodised or silvered copper look, I'm primarily after a flat, even powder coated look (but a really tough coat - TRL ones scratch easily). And aluminium in generally is a bit too springy for me to work with. I do have a ringinator which I have to get working, so my next thought was if I could source a larger variety of enamelled copper wire, and produce my own. Does anyone have any ideas on where I could source some matte coloured enamelled copper wire (19-20g) and then how I would go about cutting the rings with the ringinator (so that I don't scratch the rings) Cheers!!
  3. Cheers, thanks for the explanation!
  4. So are you suggesting the rings could have been silicone?
  5. Yep, I buy from AE they're local but the SS wire isn't discounted until you hit the big $$$ Well I can tell you I did see sterling silver soldered rings woven with rubber rings, maybe both had an outside diameter of 8mm. This was at Gaffa.
  6. How many rings was that??? Was that a paid job or is it for yourself if you don't mind me asking? Which tumbler - vibratory or rotary?
  7. madd-vyking - So in your opinion, it's best to tumble the open rings pre-weave? I'm still trying to figure out what is best practice for working with silver chainmail. Do I use the silver filled stuff, solid? Do I aim to solder every single jump ring? From the beginning, what would be your work process if you aimed to produce flat woven chainmail for sale? bdinus - Re: rubber, some of my pieces will more or less be in art territory (ie non wearable), aesthetically I believe in the transformation of the unattractive. So regarding rubber, I would like to know what sort of soldering technology I use to solder something so fine without heating the entire ring, or enough to cause damage to the neighbouring rubber ring. Still for wearables, I would investigate stainless steel - what would you consider the pros of stainless other than cost - is it hypoallergenic? And how does it easy to work with, personally I've enjoyed working with copper. So far, the people I've shown the silver piece to have responded to the presciousness of silver. Sorry for all the questions!
  8. Would it be better to open the jump rings, tumble them then weave? Or would that work harden them? Oh and what do you do when you're using rubber rings in the weave and you need to solder the silver? That's the sort of precision I'm after. Ha, one more edit, I recall someone suggested a puk welder - any idea if that would work? Sorry for all the questions. I'm a bit new! EDIT: and I just looked at the price, that's a no to puk
  9. Thanks for the responses. I how to solder and have the gear, but soldering small jumpring joins and keeping the solder on the rings was more my question... Is there special tip I have to get for my torch? Is there a video I could watch re: soldering a flat weave or small jump rings? I was working with .9mm a bit less than 35mm rings. If you guys were in my shoes, would you solder the whole lot or just the outside rings? i think it was itchy because of the burrs and dust, I've since worn it a bit and it's less itchy. Still I would like to try tumbling it. I assume you can tumble heavier things like rings made with SS yeah?
  10. Hi all, I'm just about to buy the ringinator and in preparation, I will need to find a cheap supplier of SS (also interested in other metals). The potential issue is that I'm located in Australia, but yeah, I'm pretty sure I can do better than the prices here even with shipping cost. Also regarding a coil making rig, does anyone have some suggestions on where I can get one? This one was suggested, but I'd like to know what else is out there. This rig seems to need it spooled - is there a way to do this myself without ruining the shape of the wire too much? http://www.mailleart...php?oldkey=7309 Finally, I've just finished the below piece. The problem is that it's unsoldered... and untumbled... and itchy.. so I need advice on the best tumbler, shot to fix the itchy factor + make it shine. AND the next big question is how to I friggin solder it!! I went to a jewellery gallery the other day and saw a chainmail necklace (the rings were probably bigger) and it was soldered. How do I do this to 1200 jump rings??? I definitely don't want to sell a piece only to have it fall apart.
  11. ksoe

    Tumbling a flat weave

    @Milquetoast LOL, 1600 - madness. Yeah copper. Can you suggest a tumbler size? Can I put the whole thing in? Why do you say dedicated? Oh I'm not concerned about shipping re: rings, but a tumbler will have to be sourced more locally I reckon. Do you have to have both a dedicated barrel and shot for each different metal?
  12. Hi all, this is my first attempt at chainmail. I handmade each jump ring... I won't do it again... Anyway, I just heard a bit about using a tumbler for chainmail and I was wondering how I would go about tumbling something like this (just the chainmail, not the other parts) - in sections or the whole thing? Also tumbling chainmail like this will remove burrs as well as polish, correct? In future weaves, I will be using premade rings, is it still necessary to tumble unsoldered weaves? Also where is the best place to buy jumprings? I've heard it's best to buy unpolished, correct? I'm in Australia... Thanks so much. EDIT: Do I need diffferent tumbler gear for each different metal? And can I do resin jewellery with the same machine?