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Everything posted by Fenris

  1. I finally saved enough to buy the resistance welder that used to be sold at TRL. It’s gone! I assumed it might’ve moved to Mailletec but couldn’t find it there. If anyone can point me towards where to buy one I would really appreciate it. Thanks!
  2. Been a while since I've posted anything, but just got finished making a set of steel brands of the Elder Futhark (Old Norse runes from roughly 200-800 CE), and set about burning everything in sight. Here's a shot of my new coffee table. The writing is from an Old Norse translation of the Havamal, re-translated into Futhark. I think there are a few spelling errors, but largely it's correct. Would love to hear any ideas on what else I should/could do with them.
  3. Fenris

    dragonscale weave for shirts?

    Want a murderously heavy shirt that will prove your power level is over 9000? Make a full length, full sleeve, 16g 1/4" ID spring temper stainless haubergon and weld every ring shut. Should weigh between 40-50 lbs and your forearms will bulge like you lead a 5.10 climbing route with no rope. I think copper would pull itself apart at your given sizes and weights. I've tried wearing my maille shirts around and it does get you accustomed to wearing them, and moving better in them, but man do my shoulders, neck, lower back, and knees hate it.
  4. Fenris

    What works with TRL square wire?

    Byzantine is always a good fallback. Vipera Berus and Byzee Bees family could work. Check out Maille Artisans website and look around their weaves gallery. It lets you search by AR, and if you searched for tighter AR weaves you might be able to find a whole bunch that work.
  5. Fenris

    Any tips on coloring Galvanized Steel Wire?

    I know the price point of galvanized is very attractive, but he metal really isn't. It's heavy, smelly, dirty, and in certain situations, dangerous. I think you'd be better served buying some gold/brass anodized aluminum rings for your project. They're far more comfortable to wear in terms of weight, and won't rub grey color into your clothes. That being said, the simplest thing I can think of is painting your rings with a direct-to-metal bronze paint (perhaps numerous coats) and then sealing it with a satin or gloss clear coat. I wouldn't try heating it or electrically anodizing it. Also, it kinda bothers me that his maille is oriented the wrong way in the last picture.
  6. Fenris

    Good ring size for shirt?

    Unless you're getting beaten with things, 16g 5/16 steel rings are just fine.
  7. Fenris

    Help with armor

    http://theringlord.com/cart/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=85&cat=Punched%2C+Solid+%26amp%3B+Split+Jump+Rings First option in the stainless category?
  8. Fenris

    Help with armor

    You could also use the solid aluminum rings from TRL for increased strength and reduced weight. I would think a solid aluminum ring would be marginally stronger than a butted steel one. Or you could use the 3/8" punched stainless rings for super strength. Either punched ring paired with the small split rings in a japanese weave would be strong and light. I like the idea of japanese weaves as they are far lighter than european. I would NOT recommend 6 in 1, it's simply too heavy and dense for any practical use. There is a reason it was not used in history.
  9. Fenris

    Good old Colorado.

    Because of the springs having a large liberal college, I think chainmail wares could sell nicely at little art shops and nerdy places like comic book stores. There might also be an arts fair or somesuch that you could rent cheap space at. I know there's a farmers market here in CB and in Gunnison once a week and the booths are very cheap and they bring in a nice client group, ie, the kind of people who can afford to buy local organic food and are of that inclination as well.
  10. I made a suit out of 1/4" spring temper, and it's beautiful and strong, but heavy and killed my hands to make. 5/16" spring temper will make a very very nice shirt, but unless you're planning to get hit by things, it's not worth the effort. And if you want to get hit by things, it's not strong enough. Go with normal stainless, it's still very strong and won't kill your hands.
  11. Fenris

    Best Cutters for Stainless Steel?

    I'll second the Knipex Cobalt mini bolt cutters. They leave a relatively flush // looking cut, not a >< type cut of normal pinch style cutters. I've cut about 50 lbs of spring temper, 16 g stainless with them and there's barely a mark on the blades.
  12. Just moved to Montrose, always up for a chat but CO is a big state.
  13. Fenris

    Armored Hoodie Project

    Neither is most of the chainmail here. For $150, you can't make a knife resistant hoodie out of chainmail, unless you want to hand rivet the rings. You might be able to do it with kevlar. But of course, if you're planning on entrusting your life to it, you have to research it. Edit: I knew I saw this somewhere. A company called Bladerunner sells stab proof clothing that looks like normal streetwear, including a hoodie, and it retails 78 pounds, or about $125 american. Best advice I have. Check their videos, they're prettying impressive.
  14. Fenris

    Armored Hoodie Project

    I had a similar idea, but instead of protection I was going to make it into a weight shirt. Sweatshirt on the outside, long sleeved T on the inside, 35 lbs of chainmail in between. Less conspicuous, but still great leg and core exercise just walking around, much less walking the 3 mile uphill path to my house. Never got it off the ground. In terms of blade proof clothing, I think you may be better off buying some Kevlar fabric from the ebay or somewhere else, finding a hoodie from a thrift store that fits comfortably, taking it apart, and using it as a pattern to make a kevlar hoodie. Not quite as burly as chainmail, but far less conspicuous, heavy, and probably far cheaper.
  15. Fenris

    Male necklace - Ideas??

    I've ALWAYS loved byzee bees to butterflies. Done in square wire I can only assume it would be super heavy and extra manly. Here's a link to Maille's page about it. http://mailleartisans.org/weaves/weavedisplay.php?key=333
  16. Fenris

    how do you do it?

    For most Euro based weaves I like to have the piece on a table in front of me, or in my lap if there is no table. I pick it up and flip it around because I'm comfortable with the weave. With others, like half persian weaves and JPL, I like to have the piece sitting static on a table so I can see the weave more clearly, as some do not hold shape well until sufficiently long enough or at correct aspect ratios (ratio of wire width to rind diameter). I taught myself how to make chainmail with a hanging rig, but as I did it more it quickly became second nature to keep the weave in check. If it helps you I say go for it, but I think you'll not like having your piece free to manipulate.
  17. Fenris

    What would be a good ring to use for armor?

    Galvy is not shiny, smells funny, and is dangerous to heat, which limits its applications in jewelry when, often times, rings are welded together. It's also heavy, as it's steel, and can leave gray rub off on the skin. And I think some people may have zinc allergies which is no good either. You could make jewelry out of it, I know I've made the odd galvy bracelet, but it's not ideal.
  18. Fenris

    Hauberk Armpit and Neck Advice Needed

    16g, 1/4" ID steel wire is going to make an exceedingly heavy shirt. Trust me, I've made one. It's comparable to a short sleeved T shirt in terms of size, and weighs upward of 30 lbs. If I were going to make a shirt from steel again it'd be either 16g 5/16", or 18g 1/4".
  19. Fenris

    Hauberk Armpit and Neck Advice Needed

    Along with adding some more material for "give", you could trim it with similarly sized steel rings around the neck. Would give it a dual toned look, which some people like, and would alleviate a lot of stress on the weaker aluminum rings. For the armpits, it sounds like you made a triangle at the base of the arm hole. Did you change the direction of the weave at the sleeves? If so, did you use a 90 or 45 degree seam? If you have a picture or two that could help as well. When I made my first shirt I had a triangle at the base of the arm hole, and attached the sleeves at a 90 degree bias to the shirt, then had the sleeve woven to the triangle until the two halves of the sleeve met. The armpit sags a bit when my arms are down but doesn't get very stressed when my arms come up.
  20. Fenris

    What would be a good ring to use for armor?

    I wouldn't want to get hit by any type of weapon, real, boffer, rebated, etc., wearing ANY kind of armor. The best defense is not getting hit, as far as I'm concerned. However, if I had to wade into battle, I'd want something around 18g, 1/4" ID stuff, riveted or welded. Light enough that it won't kill you to wear, still thick enough gauge to stop a lot of damage. I don't think chainmail was ever intended to completely negate a full power, unblocked attack by itself. Regardless of how you make it, you must understand the limitations of the material. Chainmail is essentially a metal cloth, and therefore, a great deal of any impact is transferred through it. If I wanted to "stop a sword", ie, wear armor that would completely protect me from a sword strike, I'd wear plate. Or shoot the man with the sword with my bow from a goodly distance. And every time I see butted chainmail that is claimed to be "historic" I gnash my teeth.
  21. Fenris

    Post your best complete suit

    Yes ma'am, that's Crested Butte alright. I've had the honor of playing Sir Hapless for the Vinotok celebration for the past 3 years. It's really fun to be the bad guy, if just for a week.
  22. Fenris

    Post your best complete suit

    That sounds like the correct apparatus for the job Mac
  23. Fenris

    Post your best complete suit

    Reformed, what do you use to keep the wings up? Tent poles have great strength, rigidity, and weight, but it would seem that with any significant amount of weight, the connection between your back and the wings would be the weak point. Regardless of how well made the wings are, if they aren't anchored well/securely to your back they'll just flop around. Maybe sewing or somehow attaching it into a sports bra or something like that would help. Also, if the wings were attached to some sort of brace apparatus you could have stabilizing rods coming down the small of your back to add significant additional strength and stability.
  24. Fenris

    Post your best complete suit

    Best I have right now. It was a total rush job so it's not quite right, and it's my first attempt at a large, fitted scale piece, but all in all I'm very happy with it. And yes, that's a lightsaber. I do have a few swords but the police DO NOT appreciate me wearing them outside.
  25. Fenris

    What would be a good ring to use for armor?

    Wow, riveting 20+ gauge wire seems difficult to me. And when you anneal stainless in order to soften it for punching you lose a lot of the stainless quality. For speed and efficiency's sake, I'd recommend 1/4" ID 18g wire, perhaps of mild steel, or stainless. Big enough rings that it won't take a lifetime to make, but still small enough to stop a sword before it cuts you too deeply on a thrust.