Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


About Cynake

  • Rank
    Admiral Awesome
  • Birthday 10/15/1982

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Calgary, AB, Canada
  • Location
    Calgary, AB
  • Interests
    Butterfly Knives, Computers, Electronics, MMA.
  • Occupation
  • The year you started making chainmail
  1. Cynake

    Which size?

    I don't understand your question. You used the calculator once, but you don't want to bother looking up 2 numbers to click the calculate button again? And, even though you're getting close, you don't want a calculation, just a guess? My guess is "Maybe, but calculate it, to be sure, since you know you're close" 5280 feet in a mile. You have half that, 2640. You found out you'll need 2200 feet to make something out of 3/8". Okay. 5/16" for the same square footage will take 2782 feet or so. Pretty easy to figure out. So, my answer is, close, but not quite enough, unless you can trim 5% somewhere.. and not counting losses. And, that's based on 2200 being accurate.
  2. Cynake

    Anodised copper

    Hrm. It might not be enameled, but, it's certainly not anodized. There seem to be one of two coatings available: 1 - "Modified polyurethane resin with a polyimide (nylon) overcoat" 2 - "Base coat: modified polyester, Overcoat: modified amide imide" Phong, who's a materials engineer (specializing in enamel, though the glass kind, not the plastic kind), tells me neither of these are technically most accurately described as an enamel, but it gets the point across, (though he doesn't really consider 'enameled copper' to be an enamel either). (Edited to add, I forgot to click post, and I see he's now joined the convo). My own interpretation in laymen's terms: "polyurethane resin" is something similar to "goopy plastic used as paint/coating". Nylon is a fiber. Polyester is a fiber. I'd say it's enameled as much as any other wire is, but with some fiber thrown into the mix, (which may or may not be typical, I'm guessing is not). Transformer wire is typically just enameled copper too, though I've not heard of nylon or polyester being part of it. It might help the coating be prevented from flaking off, melting, burning (the polyester type can't be soldered without stripping). I do know a fair bit about anodizing though. It's certainly not anodized, or anything even remotely close to it, in any way what-so-ever. ... As to what you can do with it.. well, 28G is weak. Even in stainless. Copper, especially transformer/motor winding copper, is dead soft. It'll be kinda mush. At 28G, just by holding a ring in your fingers and rolling them, will turn the ring back into a strip of wire. Daemon Lotos makes jewelry out of 26G enameled wire, so I guess it holds up well enough for him. He cuts these with a jeweler's saw and 6/0 blades down to a certain size, else uses Xuron 9100 microsheers (TRL sells 'em). I do not like the microsheers, they distort the rings too much. Toenail clippers work better, if they're not the cheap chromed ones that flake, made out of tin that are everywhere nowadays. You could try triple twisting the strands. Triple twisting would give you ~22 g wire. It looks a bit ugly if you use them everywhere, but as accent rings they'd be okay. Here's some triple twist EC, though it's 34G wire, the persian (with the mistake in it) is 28G stainless. You will have to be careful to cut clean, the inside of the cuts will not be colored. Good closures will be important. You'll have to use light pressure, or you may mar the coating. It will peel if provoked. Stick to using low ARs. I wouldn't trust EC above AR=5.5 or so. No bracelets or rings. Earrings or necklaces only.
  3. Cynake

    ring lord site.

    Up and running fine for me.
  4. Cynake

    Saw blades question

    1 - It's a 12-pack. 99% sure. 2 - I presume that's a quantity discount if you want to buy a "gross". A gross is a dozen dozen, or 144. If you're buying a 12 dozen, rather than paying $0.80 * 12 = $9.60, you get a deal of $6.72. However... I would strongly recommend *not* purchasing jeweler's saw blades from TRL for several reasons: 1 - They are mislabeled or mis-spec'd. I purchased 3 dozen of the 6/0 blades from TRL. The specs are supposed to be "0.006'' thick, 104 teeth per inch". However, when I got mine, they seemed fishy. So I got out my calipers, and made pictures: I count 55 teeth per inch. A little more than half of what there should be. And when I measured the thickness, they were 0.010" thick, almost twice as thick as what I wanted. 2 - TRL does not stock 55 teeth-per-inch blades, nor does that match up to their 0.010" blades. Also, I double-checked my order, and their order confirmation, I ordered only only type, 6/0, and it shows up as 6/0. This leads me to believe all of TRL's saw blades are the size as the 3 (individually wrapped) dozen I have (which are all the same specs). There may also be an error in their original specs, as 6/0 blades are supposed to be 0.007", not 0.006" (8/0 are 0.006", TRL does not sell 8/0). 3 - The quality of the blades is awful. Missing and chipped teeth. The blades are very soft, and wear very very very quickly compared to same methods with other (cheap, bottom-quality) jewelry saw blades I've purchased elsewhere. Again, I'm not comparing them to high quality blades, I'm comparing them to other crap lowest-price blades from other places, and I go through blades about 8x as quickly even compared to the other garbage blades. I've gone through blades so quickly in terms of dulling, that changing blades actually used up a noticeable amount of my time. And I was cutting very soft materials, using ample lube, light pressure, and not generating a lot of heat. The blades are just crap. 4 - Most concerning with me, I posted a thread here detailing my issues and my troubleshooting (including the above pic) quite thoroughly, and the thread was ignored by TRL's customer service for a week. Someone else who was curious bumped it, and after that the only response I ever received from TRL was to ask me if I ordered multiple sizes and got confused, and telling me they bought the blades cheap from India. I followed through that no I had not ordered multiple sizes (nor would I take the time to measure and document this and yet be so stupid as for it to not cross my mind that perhaps I grabbed the wrong bundle, if that was the case). Zero follow up from TRL. No offer to reimburse me (though cheap), no offer to find the right blades and send me any, no attempt to get me what I paid for, not even a courtesy reply telling me they considered the matter closed and too bad for me. Just left me hanging. I'd point to the thread, but it got deleted (accidentally I presume, though after several months). Perhaps worst, despite me pointing out these issues, they still sell them, and haven't changed the advertised specs on them. Letting unknowing customers (I presume) continue to purchase blades which are nowhere near what they are described to be. Is not the end of the world, but, it is indicative of quality, descriptive, and service issues. In short, don't buy 'em. The kerf on their thinnest blades of what you actually get, is so thick even TRL doesn't recommend using them to cut thinner than 20G, and the teeth per inch are so low TRL doesn't even recommend them for cutting 16G wire. I would concur with that part of their description.
  5. Cynake

    Forum Features and Tweaks

    I may have picked up a clue on all the missing threads, and threads with missing posts. I went looking for some old threads and couldn't find them by browsing or searching, so I went through IRC logs and found them there, but, they're still gone. However, with a little more poking around, through a dozen or so threads I found linked to from that time, I found out a pattern. It's easily demonstrated here: http://www.theringlord.org/forum/index.php?/forum/6-discussion/page__prune_day__100__sort_by__Z-A__sort_key__last_post__topicfilter__all__st__240 Between Sept 4th and November 9th.. every forum I checked (not all, but a handful), has a gaping hole. I could not find a single thread or post from that time. Any posts from that time are gone. Any thread that was not posted to after November 9th, is dead entirely and comes up blank, anything that was started in that date block but added to after Nov 9th, has the posts made after Nov 9th as the thread (often threads start off in the middle of nowhere). Threads there were long-standing and created before Sept 4th but posted to after November 9th, still exist, but have a big hole in them (Fun Picture Thread, for example, clearly shows this). A full backup was surely made before mucking with the database and performing the changeover, right? We could just restore between those dates, that might fix a lot of the problems. I can start posting links to threads that are missing, if that would help.
  6. Cynake

    Tight AR

    AR is not how many rings you can pack into a ring. It's how many wire diameters *across* at its widest point. A ring that fits 2.6 wire diameters across, can fit more than 2.6 rings inside. I figured you might not believe me, so I drew you a picture: 2.6 is plenty room for plenty of weaves.
  7. Cynake

    Chainmail Armour For Dog

    http://jeffdeboer.com/Galleries/CatsandMice/tabid/77/Default.aspx He's done a bunch more. Like, 15 or something. (edited 'cause pics weren't showing up) (edited again 'cause I can't get 'em to show up, he's probably disabled hotlinking, click the link, be amazed).
  8. Cynake

    HOLY CRAP, I'm not dead

    You know, the more I say it, the more I realize how true it is... Farmville Ruins Families. Know it people. It's like meth, only the effects are less obvious.
  9. Cynake

    Aluminum jewelry coming apart

    If silver is "a bit" out of her price range, then go with Niobium. It's half the price. That should be right in her price range. Titanium is also an option, and cheap. AA is kinda garbage metal, in my opinion. Looks cheap, feels cheap, is cheap. Colors are good though. More vibrant than titanium. Not as good as enameled copper, but stronger, especially for earrings where the weight of the earring itself is where most of the stress comes from. And naw, you can't really solder the rings. It'll be hideous. And they'll have lead brushing against their skin. Unless you want to use silver solder. Easy to do though. Will probably mess up the color, at least around the joint. Try using smaller ARs, and overlap so the rings have tension when closed.
  10. Cynake

    Anodizing question

    You cannot anodize reactive metals if anything touching them is a non-reactive metal. In this case, there are many reasons this will not work: 1 - The anodized layer, aluminum-oxide, resists electrical flow the thicker it becomes. This is how an anodizing layer builds up. As electricity takes the "easiest" path out into the solution, it thickens the oxide layer, meaning that location is no longer the "easiest" path. The easiest path then, is basically even across the entire surface, and no oxide layer is any thicker than any other part (or electricity would flow there, and thereby immediately thicken it until it was caught up). But if there is any non-reactive metal touching, even a tiny bit, then it never builds up an oxide layer anywhere, and that location is always the easiest path for electricity to flow. Always. So the circuit just sits there, never changing. 2 - Aluminum-oxide forms tall towers which are fragile. Dye particles fit between the towers, and then the towers collapse around them, keeping them there. If you do a whole shirt at once, you're going to shatter the towers prematurely, and thus the dye will have nowhere to sink into, so there will be bare patches everywhere. 3 - Aluminum doesn't let dye sink in anywhere metal is touching. These spots, and bad contacts, can be seen on some of the crappier scales, often on the back. If you have a whole shirt, there's going to be uncolored spots. ... That said.. aluminum anodizing itself, is electrically easy. One fixed voltage around 12 volts. A car battery is plenty, and it's easy to get a big enough power supply to do a whole shirt at once, if that happened to make sense. But it doesn't. A car battery can put out 1000 amps. The niobium/titanium anodizer TRL sells, maxes out at 1 amp, and is plenty big enough for whole jewelry pieces at once. No problem forming the aluminum-oxide layer, and since the color comes from dye, as long as the tub is big enough, no problem getting the dye in. Except for the problems above. A home setup would easily allow this. Anodizing an entire *titanium* shirt at once, would be simple process-wise, but you'd need an industrial-sized power supply to do it. Niobium, you can probably get a shirt done with only a $50 power supply or so. Daemon Lotos and I built one in a few minutes last summer that should be able to do a whole Nio shirt at once, if for some weird reason that was important.
  11. Cynake


    I like 'em, they're really cute. Like a little vein through the middle. Haven't seen you around much since NMF. I was wondering if it was maybe like "Well, clearly this is a high point of my life, it's all downhill from here", or maybe more like "I can't believe I'm hanging out with these losers, my life is terrible". Photography's nice too.
  12. Cynake

    Notes from the Shop

    He didn't get electrocuted because he never became a necessary part of the path. There was always either no way, or a "shorter" way than running through his body. The stupidest thing he did was try to break the connection with his other hand. Had he indeed broken the wire's connection to the case, but then touched the metal case with that hand.. he would have been part of the circuit that goes out of one receptacle, down the wire, into his arm, through his body (heart), down his other arm, and into the case. Two ways you can be safe. 1 - No complete path. 2 - The complete path being made by metal, and not requiring your body as part of the circuit. The *safe* part is that the metal made the full loop, and compared to metal, your body is a prohibitive path (by, about a million times). He had #2 happening, and when he slapped it to break the connection, was lucky enough that he immediately jumped to #1, rather than when he hit the wire, broke it while still touching the case. "Grounding" is a safety feature. There's a 3rd wire that's supposed to trip the breaker if any electricity flows on it at all, that gets attached to the case. So if a wire comes loose inside and touches the case, it doesn't electrify it, and then you being standing on the ground become the complete path. Two ways to short: 1 - Between both wires. 2 - Between one wire and the ground (the actual ground, as in, the dirt, or the floor, or a copper fixture in your house). Grounding, and "isolation" protects you from #2. But no safety device can protect you from #1. Which is normally okay, because touching 1 wire accidentally is rare enough, happening to get caught *between* two wires is an order of magnitude less likely. Like having two car crashes in the same intersection at the same time for different reasons. In this case, grounding worked against him. Inside the breaker box, the 3rd "grounding" wires from all over your home, are actually just connected right to one of the other two wires. That's how it protects you. But, if you get caught between wires, it will be energized. At that point, it's 50/50. If you touched the same wire the case is connected to, nothing happens, it's the same wire. But if you connect the other wire to the case, the metal case being grounded meant electricity could flow.
  13. Cynake

    Hauberk for a woman

    Left-to-Right... Dr. T's wife (doesn't post), Dr. T, KindaChang (doesn't post much), Rosethorn, Argentum, Muirgheal, Phong, Shake, The Mad Mailler, Me (sitting), Ferrousknight, Sakredchao, Tal, Sky Fury (doesn't post much), Gawthfrawg, Sabrina (Blaises's wife, doesn't post), and Blaise. Shiz, me, Daemon_Lotos, Muirgheal, and Phong on keyboard. I've a few others, but, that's a bunch of faces and names for ya, anyways.
  14. Cynake

    Notes from the Shop

    Aha. Yes, you shorted the wire to the metal case, which is grounded. That'd do it.
  15. Cynake

    Cab/coin wrap tut

    And knowledge is power! http://www.mailleartisans.org/gallery/pics/25793cab-earrings-ws-.jpg http://www.mailleartisans.org/gallery/pics/21017ck_-_blood_agate_cab.jpg http://www.mailleartisans.org/gallery/pics/21018ck_-_unkn_stone_cab.jpg http://www.mailleartisans.org/gallery/pics/21019ck_-_white_onyx_cab.jpg HP3 (due to the gap slot on the underside) and HP4 wraps are very popular. As for a tutorial.. umm, make a strip the size you need, join it, and ta da. Or, add a little dab of glue.