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Cynake

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Everything posted by Cynake

  1. Cynake

    Which size?

    I don't understand your question. You used the calculator once, but you don't want to bother looking up 2 numbers to click the calculate button again? And, even though you're getting close, you don't want a calculation, just a guess? My guess is "Maybe, but calculate it, to be sure, since you know you're close" 5280 feet in a mile. You have half that, 2640. You found out you'll need 2200 feet to make something out of 3/8". Okay. 5/16" for the same square footage will take 2782 feet or so. Pretty easy to figure out. So, my answer is, close, but not quite enough, unless you can trim 5% somewhere.. and not counting losses. And, that's based on 2200 being accurate.
  2. Cynake

    Anodised copper

    Hrm. It might not be enameled, but, it's certainly not anodized. There seem to be one of two coatings available: 1 - "Modified polyurethane resin with a polyimide (nylon) overcoat" 2 - "Base coat: modified polyester, Overcoat: modified amide imide" Phong, who's a materials engineer (specializing in enamel, though the glass kind, not the plastic kind), tells me neither of these are technically most accurately described as an enamel, but it gets the point across, (though he doesn't really consider 'enameled copper' to be an enamel either). (Edited to add, I forgot to click post, and I see he's now joined the convo). My own interpretation in laymen's terms: "polyurethane resin" is something similar to "goopy plastic used as paint/coating". Nylon is a fiber. Polyester is a fiber. I'd say it's enameled as much as any other wire is, but with some fiber thrown into the mix, (which may or may not be typical, I'm guessing is not). Transformer wire is typically just enameled copper too, though I've not heard of nylon or polyester being part of it. It might help the coating be prevented from flaking off, melting, burning (the polyester type can't be soldered without stripping). I do know a fair bit about anodizing though. It's certainly not anodized, or anything even remotely close to it, in any way what-so-ever. ... As to what you can do with it.. well, 28G is weak. Even in stainless. Copper, especially transformer/motor winding copper, is dead soft. It'll be kinda mush. At 28G, just by holding a ring in your fingers and rolling them, will turn the ring back into a strip of wire. Daemon Lotos makes jewelry out of 26G enameled wire, so I guess it holds up well enough for him. He cuts these with a jeweler's saw and 6/0 blades down to a certain size, else uses Xuron 9100 microsheers (TRL sells 'em). I do not like the microsheers, they distort the rings too much. Toenail clippers work better, if they're not the cheap chromed ones that flake, made out of tin that are everywhere nowadays. You could try triple twisting the strands. Triple twisting would give you ~22 g wire. It looks a bit ugly if you use them everywhere, but as accent rings they'd be okay. Here's some triple twist EC, though it's 34G wire, the persian (with the mistake in it) is 28G stainless. You will have to be careful to cut clean, the inside of the cuts will not be colored. Good closures will be important. You'll have to use light pressure, or you may mar the coating. It will peel if provoked. Stick to using low ARs. I wouldn't trust EC above AR=5.5 or so. No bracelets or rings. Earrings or necklaces only.
  3. Cynake

    ring lord site.

    Up and running fine for me.
  4. Cynake

    Saw blades question

    1 - It's a 12-pack. 99% sure. 2 - I presume that's a quantity discount if you want to buy a "gross". A gross is a dozen dozen, or 144. If you're buying a 12 dozen, rather than paying $0.80 * 12 = $9.60, you get a deal of $6.72. However... I would strongly recommend *not* purchasing jeweler's saw blades from TRL for several reasons: 1 - They are mislabeled or mis-spec'd. I purchased 3 dozen of the 6/0 blades from TRL. The specs are supposed to be "0.006'' thick, 104 teeth per inch". However, when I got mine, they seemed fishy. So I got out my calipers, and made pictures: I count 55 teeth per inch. A little more than half of what there should be. And when I measured the thickness, they were 0.010" thick, almost twice as thick as what I wanted. 2 - TRL does not stock 55 teeth-per-inch blades, nor does that match up to their 0.010" blades. Also, I double-checked my order, and their order confirmation, I ordered only only type, 6/0, and it shows up as 6/0. This leads me to believe all of TRL's saw blades are the size as the 3 (individually wrapped) dozen I have (which are all the same specs). There may also be an error in their original specs, as 6/0 blades are supposed to be 0.007", not 0.006" (8/0 are 0.006", TRL does not sell 8/0). 3 - The quality of the blades is awful. Missing and chipped teeth. The blades are very soft, and wear very very very quickly compared to same methods with other (cheap, bottom-quality) jewelry saw blades I've purchased elsewhere. Again, I'm not comparing them to high quality blades, I'm comparing them to other crap lowest-price blades from other places, and I go through blades about 8x as quickly even compared to the other garbage blades. I've gone through blades so quickly in terms of dulling, that changing blades actually used up a noticeable amount of my time. And I was cutting very soft materials, using ample lube, light pressure, and not generating a lot of heat. The blades are just crap. 4 - Most concerning with me, I posted a thread here detailing my issues and my troubleshooting (including the above pic) quite thoroughly, and the thread was ignored by TRL's customer service for a week. Someone else who was curious bumped it, and after that the only response I ever received from TRL was to ask me if I ordered multiple sizes and got confused, and telling me they bought the blades cheap from India. I followed through that no I had not ordered multiple sizes (nor would I take the time to measure and document this and yet be so stupid as for it to not cross my mind that perhaps I grabbed the wrong bundle, if that was the case). Zero follow up from TRL. No offer to reimburse me (though cheap), no offer to find the right blades and send me any, no attempt to get me what I paid for, not even a courtesy reply telling me they considered the matter closed and too bad for me. Just left me hanging. I'd point to the thread, but it got deleted (accidentally I presume, though after several months). Perhaps worst, despite me pointing out these issues, they still sell them, and haven't changed the advertised specs on them. Letting unknowing customers (I presume) continue to purchase blades which are nowhere near what they are described to be. Is not the end of the world, but, it is indicative of quality, descriptive, and service issues. In short, don't buy 'em. The kerf on their thinnest blades of what you actually get, is so thick even TRL doesn't recommend using them to cut thinner than 20G, and the teeth per inch are so low TRL doesn't even recommend them for cutting 16G wire. I would concur with that part of their description.
  5. Cynake

    Forum Features and Tweaks

    I may have picked up a clue on all the missing threads, and threads with missing posts. I went looking for some old threads and couldn't find them by browsing or searching, so I went through IRC logs and found them there, but, they're still gone. However, with a little more poking around, through a dozen or so threads I found linked to from that time, I found out a pattern. It's easily demonstrated here: http://www.theringlord.org/forum/index.php?/forum/6-discussion/page__prune_day__100__sort_by__Z-A__sort_key__last_post__topicfilter__all__st__240 Between Sept 4th and November 9th.. every forum I checked (not all, but a handful), has a gaping hole. I could not find a single thread or post from that time. Any posts from that time are gone. Any thread that was not posted to after November 9th, is dead entirely and comes up blank, anything that was started in that date block but added to after Nov 9th, has the posts made after Nov 9th as the thread (often threads start off in the middle of nowhere). Threads there were long-standing and created before Sept 4th but posted to after November 9th, still exist, but have a big hole in them (Fun Picture Thread, for example, clearly shows this). A full backup was surely made before mucking with the database and performing the changeover, right? We could just restore between those dates, that might fix a lot of the problems. I can start posting links to threads that are missing, if that would help.
  6. Cynake

    Tight AR

    AR is not how many rings you can pack into a ring. It's how many wire diameters *across* at its widest point. A ring that fits 2.6 wire diameters across, can fit more than 2.6 rings inside. I figured you might not believe me, so I drew you a picture: 2.6 is plenty room for plenty of weaves.
  7. Cynake

    Chainmail Armour For Dog

    http://jeffdeboer.com/Galleries/CatsandMice/tabid/77/Default.aspx He's done a bunch more. Like, 15 or something. (edited 'cause pics weren't showing up) (edited again 'cause I can't get 'em to show up, he's probably disabled hotlinking, click the link, be amazed).
  8. Cynake

    HOLY CRAP, I'm not dead

    You know, the more I say it, the more I realize how true it is... Farmville Ruins Families. Know it people. It's like meth, only the effects are less obvious.
  9. Cynake

    Aluminum jewelry coming apart

    If silver is "a bit" out of her price range, then go with Niobium. It's half the price. That should be right in her price range. Titanium is also an option, and cheap. AA is kinda garbage metal, in my opinion. Looks cheap, feels cheap, is cheap. Colors are good though. More vibrant than titanium. Not as good as enameled copper, but stronger, especially for earrings where the weight of the earring itself is where most of the stress comes from. And naw, you can't really solder the rings. It'll be hideous. And they'll have lead brushing against their skin. Unless you want to use silver solder. Easy to do though. Will probably mess up the color, at least around the joint. Try using smaller ARs, and overlap so the rings have tension when closed.
  10. Cynake

    Anodizing question

    You cannot anodize reactive metals if anything touching them is a non-reactive metal. In this case, there are many reasons this will not work: 1 - The anodized layer, aluminum-oxide, resists electrical flow the thicker it becomes. This is how an anodizing layer builds up. As electricity takes the "easiest" path out into the solution, it thickens the oxide layer, meaning that location is no longer the "easiest" path. The easiest path then, is basically even across the entire surface, and no oxide layer is any thicker than any other part (or electricity would flow there, and thereby immediately thicken it until it was caught up). But if there is any non-reactive metal touching, even a tiny bit, then it never builds up an oxide layer anywhere, and that location is always the easiest path for electricity to flow. Always. So the circuit just sits there, never changing. 2 - Aluminum-oxide forms tall towers which are fragile. Dye particles fit between the towers, and then the towers collapse around them, keeping them there. If you do a whole shirt at once, you're going to shatter the towers prematurely, and thus the dye will have nowhere to sink into, so there will be bare patches everywhere. 3 - Aluminum doesn't let dye sink in anywhere metal is touching. These spots, and bad contacts, can be seen on some of the crappier scales, often on the back. If you have a whole shirt, there's going to be uncolored spots. ... That said.. aluminum anodizing itself, is electrically easy. One fixed voltage around 12 volts. A car battery is plenty, and it's easy to get a big enough power supply to do a whole shirt at once, if that happened to make sense. But it doesn't. A car battery can put out 1000 amps. The niobium/titanium anodizer TRL sells, maxes out at 1 amp, and is plenty big enough for whole jewelry pieces at once. No problem forming the aluminum-oxide layer, and since the color comes from dye, as long as the tub is big enough, no problem getting the dye in. Except for the problems above. A home setup would easily allow this. Anodizing an entire *titanium* shirt at once, would be simple process-wise, but you'd need an industrial-sized power supply to do it. Niobium, you can probably get a shirt done with only a $50 power supply or so. Daemon Lotos and I built one in a few minutes last summer that should be able to do a whole Nio shirt at once, if for some weird reason that was important.
  11. Cynake

    FP6in1<3

    I like 'em, they're really cute. Like a little vein through the middle. Haven't seen you around much since NMF. I was wondering if it was maybe like "Well, clearly this is a high point of my life, it's all downhill from here", or maybe more like "I can't believe I'm hanging out with these losers, my life is terrible". Photography's nice too.
  12. Cynake

    Notes from the Shop

    He didn't get electrocuted because he never became a necessary part of the path. There was always either no way, or a "shorter" way than running through his body. The stupidest thing he did was try to break the connection with his other hand. Had he indeed broken the wire's connection to the case, but then touched the metal case with that hand.. he would have been part of the circuit that goes out of one receptacle, down the wire, into his arm, through his body (heart), down his other arm, and into the case. Two ways you can be safe. 1 - No complete path. 2 - The complete path being made by metal, and not requiring your body as part of the circuit. The *safe* part is that the metal made the full loop, and compared to metal, your body is a prohibitive path (by, about a million times). He had #2 happening, and when he slapped it to break the connection, was lucky enough that he immediately jumped to #1, rather than when he hit the wire, broke it while still touching the case. "Grounding" is a safety feature. There's a 3rd wire that's supposed to trip the breaker if any electricity flows on it at all, that gets attached to the case. So if a wire comes loose inside and touches the case, it doesn't electrify it, and then you being standing on the ground become the complete path. Two ways to short: 1 - Between both wires. 2 - Between one wire and the ground (the actual ground, as in, the dirt, or the floor, or a copper fixture in your house). Grounding, and "isolation" protects you from #2. But no safety device can protect you from #1. Which is normally okay, because touching 1 wire accidentally is rare enough, happening to get caught *between* two wires is an order of magnitude less likely. Like having two car crashes in the same intersection at the same time for different reasons. In this case, grounding worked against him. Inside the breaker box, the 3rd "grounding" wires from all over your home, are actually just connected right to one of the other two wires. That's how it protects you. But, if you get caught between wires, it will be energized. At that point, it's 50/50. If you touched the same wire the case is connected to, nothing happens, it's the same wire. But if you connect the other wire to the case, the metal case being grounded meant electricity could flow.
  13. Cynake

    Hauberk for a woman

    Left-to-Right... Dr. T's wife (doesn't post), Dr. T, KindaChang (doesn't post much), Rosethorn, Argentum, Muirgheal, Phong, Shake, The Mad Mailler, Me (sitting), Ferrousknight, Sakredchao, Tal, Sky Fury (doesn't post much), Gawthfrawg, Sabrina (Blaises's wife, doesn't post), and Blaise. Shiz, me, Daemon_Lotos, Muirgheal, and Phong on keyboard. I've a few others, but, that's a bunch of faces and names for ya, anyways.
  14. Cynake

    Notes from the Shop

    Aha. Yes, you shorted the wire to the metal case, which is grounded. That'd do it.
  15. Cynake

    Cab/coin wrap tut

    And knowledge is power! http://www.mailleartisans.org/gallery/pics/25793cab-earrings-ws-.jpg http://www.mailleartisans.org/gallery/pics/21017ck_-_blood_agate_cab.jpg http://www.mailleartisans.org/gallery/pics/21018ck_-_unkn_stone_cab.jpg http://www.mailleartisans.org/gallery/pics/21019ck_-_white_onyx_cab.jpg HP3 (due to the gap slot on the underside) and HP4 wraps are very popular. As for a tutorial.. umm, make a strip the size you need, join it, and ta da. Or, add a little dab of glue.
  16. Cynake

    Niobium wire problem

    What do you etch with? I want to get some Multi-Etch but I'd have to go pick it up from the US myself to haul it across the border. RMS won't ship it.
  17. Cynake

    Niobium wire problem

    Hrm. Well, what makes the metal anodized is a microscopically thin later of "rust" on the surface of the metal, a Niobium-Oxide layer. Very thin. 0.000004" at the most. When you coil wire, if you think about what happens.. the inside gets compressed, and the outside gets stretched. That compressing and stretching thins or thickens the oxide layer on the surface, which is going to push it outside the boundary that niobium-oxide has the effects it does (it needs to be a certain fraction of the wavelengths of light that hit it). This is slightly different than anodized aluminum, which gets its color from dye, and a much thicker color (which will still fade when coiled though). Anodized Niobium's color shouldn't disappear though, just by coiling it a little though. That's no different than twisting rings open or shut to weave them. Yeah, excessive twisting will make it disappear, but not tiny amounts. One thing you might consider is that niobium requires good light for colors to be visible. But, I presume you're sitting in a room with colored wire, you coil it, and it's no longer colored. It might just be a limitation of the medium, but, it does sound a bit fishy, as if the wire had already been heavily stressed after anodizing as was on the verge of disappearing already. I don't think TRL would sell anodized wire they knew couldn't make rings, so, probably good to get your money back I'd say. Maybe take a video showing color, then coiling, and color disappearing. Then everyone could see. I'm interested in watching.
  18. Cynake

    The Sins of Stainless

    Any spot welder should be good for you. Stainless spot welds very well. Neither am I, or I'd probably do a better job Making your own spot welder is easy. It's literally 1 component. Just a transformer. I've walked plenty of people who have no idea what they're doing, through it. And it only takes a few minutes. http://www.mailleartisans.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=14670 <-- Here's a more recent thread, of me walking someone through it. It sounds really involved, but he's going for a special one. Really, it's just rip the component out, 10 seconds with a grinder, 10 seconds with a hammer.. a few minutes with a blowtorch, and you're basically done. The tough part is the mechanical part. The electrical consists of a part, that already exists, have 2 terminals on it, that you put 2 wires of a plug onto (and it doesn't even matter which goes where). Or, if that sounds too difficult, a lead-acid battery (car battery, UPS battery, etc) spot welder is even easier, and contains nothing with dangerous voltages at all. But.. if you insist, you can buy a spot welder, modify it, and then do more modifying to make it low-power enough to use. http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.cgi?key=109054 <-- Here's a primer for that. Well, the welder TRL sells is, in my opinion overpriced (though the best deal anywhere to purchase that unit, if that's what you choose, by far). There's also major quality-control issues with them. TRL tries to test out each as it arrives and ship the crap ones back, but, ehn. I dunno that I'd trust the units anyway. It's also rather underpowered for 14/16G rings. Takes multiple zaps and doesn't get good penetration. It's best for 22-18G, jewelry sizes. You can spend anywhere from $500 to $5000 for various cap-discharge welders.
  19. Cynake

    Hauberk for a woman

    Dave Austin's and Shiz's vest and shirt seem to have fit Muirgheal just fine. Low-cut top: Shirt: And yes Meryl, those are your boobs down there. They didn't leave: See?
  20. Cynake

    Searching for a pic

    His. IIRC.
  21. Cynake

    Notes from the Shop

    Being a female of the female type you wouldn't have reference, but... add in pain, and that's kind of what it feel like for a man to get kneed in the groin. That gut-wrenching sickly slightly numbing feeling. Nerve shock.
  22. Cynake

    Notes from the Shop

    Well, me too. You've never been clamped onto a line before? The nervous system is electrical. Choice doesn't always enter the equation. Like I said, my friend was trying to let go, but couldn't.
  23. Cynake

    What happend to all my posts and threads!

    There's definitely something wrong that happened with the conversion. Many threads are missing pieces (beginnings), and threads appear butchered. I would guess it's something to do with special characters screwing up the parsing in the transition.
  24. Cynake

    Notes from the Shop

    Well, a tangled net isn't a full path through all of it. It's the shortest path through the nest and back out to the other side. I dunno. Figure it was 15A. What's 15A do to, say, 18" of 24G steel? Or better yet, what's 120V do, in terms of amps, to 18" of 24G steel? *grumbles at math* Seems that steel has ~35 the resistance of copper. 24G Copper is 25.67 ohms per 1000'. So steel would be 35 times that, so.. ~900 ohms per 1000', or, a little under 1 ohm per foot. So 18" of 24G would be 16 ohms. V = IR I = V/R I = 120 volts / 16 ohms I = 7.5 amps. Only half of what it'd take to blow a breaker. So, if it was only 9" of wire, it would be at 15A, the max a circuit could handle. Is 15A enough to heat up 24G steel wire white hot? I dunno. 8A is plenty enough to heat up a toaster element red hot. Heh, nope. Because I had the most awesome electronics teacher ever, he let us engage in all kinds of supervised stupidity. A friend of mine wanted to know how much voltage he could tolerate. Basically, just held onto two leads while the teacher inched up the voltage slowly. Pretty quick he got to a point where he said "Uhh.. I'm in a lot of pain and trying to let go, but my fingers won't let go." So the teacher paused a few seconds and then turns it off and told him the number. Many times the body's reaction is to clamp down and stay clamped down despite what your brain it telling them to do. Nope. 1/2" of 24G wire would almost certainly vaporize, not just glow warm, especially slowly enough to reach all the way up to his arm. The part near his arm must've at least somewhat been part of the circuit. ... Again, I say this smells fishy, because it's almost exactly how many people who do not understand electricity would think would happen if a wire fell into one side of a plug. And then the scenario might go through their head of "OMG, if that would've landed in that prong, the whole wire would've become hot like a filament, and then I would've had to hit it to break it when it was hot.", and then maybe they might go post about how that's what actually did happen, 'cause it's more exciting that way. *shrug* Not saying so, just saying, fishy.
  25. Cynake

    Notes from the Shop

    At this point, I thought you were going to say "... drill." And I was prepared for a tremendous story of mangled digits and limbs. Fortunately, your actual stupidity was only a small fraction of the potential stupidity available from the situation Hrm. I'm not quite understanding how that's possible. Electricity requires a complete loop to flow. There are only 2 options: 1 - Both ends of the wire each went into one side of the socket. 2 - One end went into the socket, and the complete loop was through your body or the work surface to ground. If the latter, you'd be dead. In a series circuit (which you must have been part of, if the current flowed), the amount of current is the same everywhere. The amount of current it takes to heat a 24G steel wire red hot, is roughly a hundred or so times what it would take to kill you. If the former... I dunno. *One* wire end flying through the air and landing in a socket is pretty amazing. But *both* opposite ends of wire flying through the air and landing in opposite plug in spots? Astronomical. And, isn't even what you described. The story as you told it seems a bit fishy. Anyway, the reason you didn't get electrocuted, if it's option #1 up there, is because the resistance of your body is much higher than the resistance of a metal wire. It's pretty much safe to touch a shorted circuit. Far more dangerous is *inserting* yourself where you are part of the required path. *Then* you'll get electrocuted. This path can include the path through to ground. Also, wearing gloves while winding, or around machinery in general, is a bad idea. Flesh is at least smooth, and small. A gloved hand is much larger, you don't have as much of a sense of where the edges are, you can't feel when something touches the outsides of them. But the biggest scare, is that they are easy to tangle, puncture, and snare. And then they drag your hand into the machinery. In the blink of an eye. Comparatively, the benefit you get from gloves.. that your hands might not get whipped, or hot.. do not compare to losing entire fingers or limbs. There's a ton of torque in even small power tools.
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