TitaniumMithril

if you don't care about how things expand and contract when it "stretches", you can just use any drawing app (e.g. ms paint), zoom way in, and each pixel will be a link. so, for example, if your dice bag is going to be 12 rows tall and 30 rows around, just make an image that's 12x30 pixels, and fill in pixels to make your lettering fit - or even use the text option and let the program do it. this took about 1 minute: Untitled.bmp

see here for more info on custom orders.

that's entirely up to them, so you'd have to contact them directly about it. i ordered 144 bags of that color, but their decision may include other criteria (like how busy they are, total order amount, order history, customer tenure, etc.). black ice is a light to medium grey - maybe just a shade darker than titanium (but shiny, of course), if you're familiar with that. there is almost no difference between unanodized bright aluminum and silver anodized aluminum; i would not use the former on an inlay due to properties of uncoated aluminum. look at the description at the top of the bright aluminum links for more info (here).

yes, it converts it to use a single letter for each link, 'a' for the most common, 'b' for the second most common, etc. it also converts the pattern to use the "speed-weaving" method of creating a double-length 2-in-1 chain and adding it with a connecting row. i prefer this method of weaving straight E4-1, but ymmv. i created a custom color palate by grabbing the colors off of trl's images. i actually overestimated how dark "black ice" was and ended up sending it back and having them make me a custom batch of "hematite." but that's been the only major hiccup.

in general you want to use as many connecting-rings as makes the pattern hold its shape, but the (my) problem with using more than two is that the middle connecting-rings float around a little because the ends aren't held tight, which also makes it lose it's shape a bit. so in general i use links with as small an ar as possible so two connecting-rings work.

thanks jeff! i found the tapestry i wanted to reproduce, put it in photoshop and used an indexed color palate that matched available colors from trl, took the resulting image, and ran it through IGP. i took those results and ran them through a program i wrote myself to make a pattern to follow in the format i wanted. here's what life looks like:

20%

making any more ss welded fabric? every kind seems to be oos.

it is extremely difficult to paint rings - to get it even and have it not chip. you could paint them before you use them and get it relatively even, but no paint i know is flexible enough to put up with the pliers and the twisting of the rings open an closed, not to mention when you're done and it's being "used". you can try to paint them after you weave them, but then they're all touching each other and it's going to be uneven and they'll stick to each other.

i could try to talk this up, but it is what it is. for better or worse, i decided to attempt a project that would push the boundaries - of reason if nothing else. 20ga 7/64" AA. below's the first 10%. i'll try to update monthly. if you've got any questions on the process, just let me know; otherwise, enjoy the ride.

just since you appear to be new, i want to add that not only will you need to solder/weld the links as liriel indicated, but also any amount of weight - be it small, sustained weight or an only-slightly-less-small jerk - will seriously warp the links. the only thing i'd even consider making with them might be some small earrings or MAYBE a low AR necklace.

generally, titanium is stronger, niobium has brighter colors. i'd say aluminum is perfectly fine for dice bags, but i assume one of the features you're looking for is an "interesting" material. i've got minimal experience with niobium, but for titanium - if you're using 16 gauge or larger, you will need good, large pliers and determination, and even at 18 gauge you'll get a work out after several hundred links, especially at low ARs you'll want if you're doing an inlay/pattern.

your other option to be stronger is to use stronger material. e.g. aluminum < steel < titanium.

unforunately, like with mail inlays, you'll probably need a full frame to stabilize each side.

if you want specific help, you'll need to post pictures - preferably on and off her ankle; and include material, ring gauge and ID (inner diameter), etc. if you're just looking for general advice, to make a piece stronger, use lower gauge (thicker), smaller ID, and/or stronger material (aluminum < steel < titanium) links; or you can rivet, solder, or weld them. if things are uncomfortable, you may need to add expansions or contractions to fit the contours of the wearer, or simply reorient things so the pokey parts aren't in sensitive areas.