TitaniumMithril

i won't argue with that evaluation. 😉 it's not quite "micro-mail" in my mind, but it's getting there. you do get used to it after a while - unless you have some physical limitations (eye site, clumsy fingers, etc.) - and then going back to bigger is weird. looks like i missed a 40% picture - i'll try to throw up 50% in a couple weeks.

while i think there are other issues with this (mostly weight and flexibility), i think eric is incorrect that it won't be stab resistant - at least in the pattern in your first link. with any direct stab, the point would be collected by the hole in the washer and the "separating force" will all be pushed onto the solid washer, not on any of the connecting rings. the only pressure on connecting rings would be from tugging a stopped blade or a glancing cut which would not threaten bodily harm anyway.

thanks all! my plan right now is to sew the top row and each side with a thick thread to long loops of fabric through which i can run a rod, resulting in what hopefully looks like a normal tapestry. then build a frame (should be about 5'x7') that will hold said rods and can hang from a wall and/or ceiling. how well it will all hold the weight will be interesting to see!

my mistake - i did not notice you were looking exclusively for a scale pattern. best of luck!

THE bladeturner? of the titular "bladeturner pattern" shirt? if so, i owe you a few thanks! i guess if you're looking for a shirt pattern, i can at least redirect you back to your own information. we talked about it here.

30%

you just want something with the same aspect ratio, and it will "behave" the same way (i.e. essentially you'll need to stretch it the same percentage to get it to look correct); so from that standpoint: yes, 20g 1/8" ID rings will be comparable to 16g 1/4" (both with ar 4.0). that said, if you look at my tapestry project (here), i opted for 7/64" as suggested by theringlord so that i could be sure it would hold its own weight, and i wouldn't have to deal with the stretch quite as much. so i'd say it depends on what your end-goal is. as for tools, you'll definitely want something with finer control. i use the xuron short nose pliers (kx475 at theringlord) for 19g and lower and they work well. one broke on me once, but i contacted them, and they shipped me a new one for free.

ha - okay. occam's razor.

this is a bit of a tangent (though the op hasn't responded at all anyway), but i've seen a few others make them too and am curious: what do you do with round inlays? is it like... a coaster?

here's a discussion on this several years ago. i don't know if any of those folks are still around (besides myself, obviously).

if you don't care about how things expand and contract when it "stretches", you can just use any drawing app (e.g. ms paint), zoom way in, and each pixel will be a link. so, for example, if your dice bag is going to be 12 rows tall and 30 rows around, just make an image that's 12x30 pixels, and fill in pixels to make your lettering fit - or even use the text option and let the program do it. this took about 1 minute: Untitled.bmp

see here for more info on custom orders.

that's entirely up to them, so you'd have to contact them directly about it. i ordered 144 bags of that color, but their decision may include other criteria (like how busy they are, total order amount, order history, customer tenure, etc.). black ice is a light to medium grey - maybe just a shade darker than titanium (but shiny, of course), if you're familiar with that. there is almost no difference between unanodized bright aluminum and silver anodized aluminum; i would not use the former on an inlay due to properties of uncoated aluminum. look at the description at the top of the bright aluminum links for more info (here).

yes, it converts it to use a single letter for each link, 'a' for the most common, 'b' for the second most common, etc. it also converts the pattern to use the "speed-weaving" method of creating a double-length 2-in-1 chain and adding it with a connecting row. i prefer this method of weaving straight E4-1, but ymmv. i created a custom color palate by grabbing the colors off of trl's images. i actually overestimated how dark "black ice" was and ended up sending it back and having them make me a custom batch of "hematite." but that's been the only major hiccup.

in general you want to use as many connecting-rings as makes the pattern hold its shape, but the (my) problem with using more than two is that the middle connecting-rings float around a little because the ends aren't held tight, which also makes it lose it's shape a bit. so in general i use links with as small an ar as possible so two connecting-rings work.