TitaniumMithril

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About TitaniumMithril

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  • Birthday 01/06/80

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  1. unforunately, like with mail inlays, you'll probably need a full frame to stabilize each side.
  2. if you want specific help, you'll need to post pictures - preferably on and off her ankle; and include material, ring gauge and ID (inner diameter), etc. if you're just looking for general advice, to make a piece stronger, use lower gauge (thicker), smaller ID, and/or stronger material (aluminum < steel < titanium) links; or you can rivet, solder, or weld them. if things are uncomfortable, you may need to add expansions or contractions to fit the contours of the wearer, or simply reorient things so the pokey parts aren't in sensitive areas.
  3. just fyi - you're trying to sell finished pieces to people who can make these ourselves for a fraction of that price, so you're probably not going to get much interest here. but best of luck!
  4. mainly price. or if you just really hate kerf. EDIT - i feel obligated to add to my slightly-snarky comment that i actually like to use machine cut to look a little more "authentic" and (literally) "rough around the edges" when i make things that that is appropriate for (armor, more "masculine" jewelry, etc.), which for me is most things. i only use saw cut on "fine" jewelry and other applications where it's best to not see the break.
  5. all weaves have a minimum link ar (aspect ratio). some have a maximum (and most start to look weird when they get too big). scales work best at a very specific size that varies by the size of the scale. if you don't want to keep an inventory, you'll have to decide on a few weaves/projects to try and get the links you want in gauge you want at the suggested ar (e.g. check here: http://www.mailleartisans.org/weaves/). if you DO want a decent inventory, order links with ARs from 3 to 6 in 1/32" increments for 20 gauge and below and 1/16" increments above 20 gauge. at least. then do that for all the materials you like. and then possibly colors. then give up a room in your house for them. oh - you beat me, losthelm...
  6. it's just euro 4-1. it might be slightly graduated (rings get slightly bigger as you go), but the more i look at it the less i think so. they all look to be tight 18 gauge links (e.g. 5/32" id) except the very inner row which are probably 19.
  7. here's the updated link. http://theringlord.com/cart/shopcontent.asp?type=wiregaugetable
  8. i don't do a lot of scale-work, but for chain, i just fill a dish tub with water and a very little amount of soap and dip the piece in and out of the tub for a few minutes. then fill with clean water and dip again (repeat this step if you keep getting more bubbles). i'll then throw it in an old pillow case and put it in the dryer. with anodized scales, you may just want to put it in an old towel and hand tumble it dry so they don't scratch. others may have more experience.
  9. mailleartisans is a very good resource: http://www.mailleartisans.org/weaves/weavearsearch.php
  10. there are many, many posts here about things like this if you want to dig into it, but the basic answer is the same as you'd charge for anything: material cost + (working hours * hourly pay). all you have to decide is how much you want to pay yourself.
  11. blue dawn (or equivalent) dish soap is the standard.
  12. welcome ahilynn, for the shirt, you can use theringlord's calculator here: http://theringlord.com/cart/shopcontent.asp?type=Euro4in1ShirtCalculator i don't have experience making pants, but if you use the above calculator to get a number for a long-sleeve-t-shirt-sized shirt, i'd probably order the same amount more for the pants (so essentially two times what it calculates for the shirt to do both). maybe someone else here can give you a better number on that, though.
  13. perfect! i assumed they were archived somewhere, but forgot about this site. thanks zlosk!
  14. that does have the bladeturner image without any explanation. probably enough for a veteran or if you paired it up with konstantin's tutorial on m.a.i.l.
  15. neither of the original sites seem to be up anymore. has no one cross-posted it to a new site because the information is potentially copywritten, or is it just no one ever thought to snag the info before it went down? if the latter, i have heavily edited versions of both of the patterns (with what i considered "beginner" information removed) i could upload...