TitaniumMithril

built a wood frame such that i could whip-stitch the outside row/column to the frame with fishing line. if you direct link to the finished image you can zoom into the image, or you can go to my website here and the image has a magnifying glass, and you can see the stitching along the edge.

thanks guys. jon gave me a lot of retail support back in the day (discounts and custom products and whatnot), so a lot of thanks to TLR is in order. if you guys want to post any images to your social media (or elsewhere) be my guest.

well, the cat's kind of out of the bag at this point, if any of you are active on reddit or facebook forums. so i finished this about 3 weeks ago and started it four years ago. i didn't want to start posting progress pics here until i actually made enough progress to know i was going to finish it (fear of failure or something, i guess), so i didn't start until late last year. then i finished faster than expected. so as not to lead you guys on while thousands of random strangers on the internet already have the end product, the full post posted on reddit (among other places) is here:

perhaps you compensate by adding extra links in the bags (i didn't count), but there's about a 10% dud rate in the your SS1918. just thought i'd mention it since it's quite out of the ordinary.

50%

having to debate with yourself on the price of every item is enough of a pain to me to just adopt a general strategy, especially when you've got 100 different items at a big show. you can bump up your "what your time is worth" some when paying for a booth, or if you think you might lose money in the sales process (through haggling or thievery), because that is literally making your time cost more than with direct sales; but in general, i prefer to go the other way, i.e. make my base, per-hour pay higher and give nice people and/or direct sales discounts. hope that makes sense.

i'm a little interested in what other things you've been told, but a universal answer is: (price) = (material cost of item) + ((what your time is worth) * (time to make item)). in my experience, anything less is unsustainable, and anything more will require direct experience with your clientele.

i won't argue with that evaluation. 😉 it's not quite "micro-mail" in my mind, but it's getting there. you do get used to it after a while - unless you have some physical limitations (eye site, clumsy fingers, etc.) - and then going back to bigger is weird. looks like i missed a 40% picture - i'll try to throw up 50% in a couple weeks.

while i think there are other issues with this (mostly weight and flexibility), i think eric is incorrect that it won't be stab resistant - at least in the pattern in your first link. with any direct stab, the point would be collected by the hole in the washer and the "separating force" will all be pushed onto the solid washer, not on any of the connecting rings. the only pressure on connecting rings would be from tugging a stopped blade or a glancing cut which would not threaten bodily harm anyway.

thanks all! my plan right now is to sew the top row and each side with a thick thread to long loops of fabric through which i can run a rod, resulting in what hopefully looks like a normal tapestry. then build a frame (should be about 5'x7') that will hold said rods and can hang from a wall and/or ceiling. how well it will all hold the weight will be interesting to see!

my mistake - i did not notice you were looking exclusively for a scale pattern. best of luck!

THE bladeturner? of the titular "bladeturner pattern" shirt? if so, i owe you a few thanks! i guess if you're looking for a shirt pattern, i can at least redirect you back to your own information. we talked about it here.

30%

you just want something with the same aspect ratio, and it will "behave" the same way (i.e. essentially you'll need to stretch it the same percentage to get it to look correct); so from that standpoint: yes, 20g 1/8" ID rings will be comparable to 16g 1/4" (both with ar 4.0). that said, if you look at my tapestry project (here), i opted for 7/64" as suggested by theringlord so that i could be sure it would hold its own weight, and i wouldn't have to deal with the stretch quite as much. so i'd say it depends on what your end-goal is. as for tools, you'll definitely want something with finer control. i use the xuron short nose pliers (kx475 at theringlord) for 19g and lower and they work well. one broke on me once, but i contacted them, and they shipped me a new one for free.

ha - okay. occam's razor.