TitaniumMithril

perhaps you know already, but 24ga gold or silver would have to be soldered and would still misform relatively quickly. i use 20ga titanium and still assume i'll need to re-make it every couple years.

"move" in what way? when you're wearing armor or jewelry, it feels almost like aluminum. weaving is like spring steel.

it's (obviously) entirely up to you, but personally i've given up on the idea that if i'm not making my own rings, i'm not a true mailler. (the fact that i'm usually doing titanium is probably another factor.) i don't mine or smelt the ore, i don't mix the alloy or draw the wire; so if someone else has the knowledge, tools, and processes to make the rings much more efficiently than me, i'm willing to pay for it. just my 2 cents.

is TI16516NoColor restocking too with the saw-cut? my commission just "officially" fell through that i emailed you guys about late last year (surprise, surprise), but i wouldn't mind getting a little to restock my personal supply (and am working on an order...)

i don't have direct access to it right now, but here's a close-up of the original image where all the weaves come together. i did the hp3-1 first and added the euro4-1 after, but it wouldn't be too terribly complicated to do the reverse, if you're good with persian weaves.

in my experience (with titanium) 18g 1/4" hp3-1 lines up pretty well with 18g 3/16" euro4-1. the blue edging on this halter is HP3-1 and the rest is euro4-1:

i'm got a preliminary commission for a titanium chainmail shirt in 16ga 5/16" id links. i'm going to need about 31,000 links (155 bags) of machine cut links, and i'd like them all from the same batch, so i'm not dealing with shiny/matte issues with the titanium wire. how should i move forward?

i second that, rob. people were posting my stuff on the facebook group (usually half-crediting me, but that's a different discussion) so i thought i should join to respond to questions, etc., but i quickly had to turn it off because it was just a newsfeed headache. i'd rather frequent a well-organized forum like we've got here, where i don't have to sift through a hundred images to maybe find one interesting post.

haha - yep! 403,788 (759x532) to be exact, but who's counting. ;-)

this was discussed just a bit ago. check it out here: Matte vs. Shiny Titanium

i've had some rings "come" this way. not sure what in the manufacturing process causes this, but it does take an obnoxious amount of extra work to get them lined up. regardless: it may not be you.

here's the post from here: http://www.theringlord.org/forum/index.php?/topic/17961-tapestry-project/. even this one is blurring details from the original image that would have been nice to get in. without seeing the picture, there's not a lot i/we can do. simple, clip-art style images and logos with block colors usually work well, but photo-quality [almost] never will - it's just the name of the game. usually the only thing you can do to make it look better is increase the resolution, but any increase in size has a 2x affect on the amount of work.

that's... way too big. a 2.5 mb image will require 2.5 million links. and as someone who just finished a 400k link inlay (the largest on record that i'm aware of), don't go there. igp just translates a pixel into a link, so you need to make the image as small as possible. if this is your first, i'd probably set the max at 10,000 links (or a 10k bitmap).

i'm guessing (hoping) you mean "european" not "persian" - i don't know if you can even do a sheet in persian 4-1 and certainly not at that link size. the smaller AR ("aspect ratio", i.e. the ratio of the inner diameter of the link to the size of the wire) the less empty space between rings there will be and the inlay/image will look a little better, but often you just choose by what size you want the end product to be. 1. I don't know what you mean by "saddled". If you're marring the links in the process of opening and closing them, you may want to grind down any teeth on your pliers as much as possible. Even 16ga aluminum is pretty easy to handle with smooth pliers of average size. 2. "Bright" aluminum on TRL is non-anodized, so you're not going to make any inlays just with that, and really shouldn't use it at all, even for the "white" parts. Anodized links are the colored links you want to use, and you even want to use the clear-anodized links instead of "bright aluminum" for the extra protection and consistency. 3. The defacto tutorial on making a historical chainmail shirt is the Trevor Barker, and is still available here: https://web.archive.org/web/20160508055350/http://homepage.ntlworld.com/trevor.barker/farisles/guilds/armour/mail.htm

i've got no stake in this claim, but i thought i should note for your sake, zgreen, that K'Z'K said he used 20g for both sizes but you said you used 18g for the larger and 20g for the smaller - NOT the "same sizes." that should theoretically make his even looser than yours, but maybe ss is that different. just fyi!