Eric

Members
  • Content count

    101
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

About Eric

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/01/75

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

Recent Profile Visitors

2163 profile views
  1. If you want to add a contraction/expansion in the middle of a finished sheet, you will need to add or remove many scales. If your contraction takes a row from, say, 20 scales wide to 19 scales wide, then every row below that point will also be 19 scales wide. Doing that in the middle of a sheet requires removing one scale from every row below that point. For your first shirt, it's hard to know where to place contractions before you've built the shirt and tried it on to see where it puckers. Chicken and egg problem. Go through the gallery and inspect the scale shirts and look closely for the contractions. I remember using Lorenzo's and Paladin's images for references when I started doing scale work. See the attached photos. They may help show the behavior of expansions and contractions in different places. They will add a little definition, but I think something like this link combined with tailoring will be much more effective: https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=130769 Scales are a little body conformal, but not nearly as much as maille. Tailoring really helps.
  2. What size blanket do you want? What weight? With those two numbers we can give you ring sizes, material options, price, and estimated construction time.
  3. I build up from the bottom. It's significantly faster for me to add scales to the top of a sheet. The drawback is not being able to easily test fit the work. I also make panels of ~300 scales and connect them later. Is this your first shirt or your first scale shirt?
  4. I've seen many people using yarn, e.g.:https://www.etsy.com/shop/Crystalsidyll (I don't know this vendor; that link was the first google result) EDIT: Some more from other vendors https://www.etsy.com/listing/465264257/mermaid-themed-sea-green-blue-and-silver https://www.etsy.com/listing/554746509/dice-bag-mirrored-yellow-scales-scale https://www.etsy.com/listing/549323615/custom-small-knitted-scalemail-gauntlets https://www.etsy.com/listing/495074166/knit-scale-mail-fingerless-gloves https://www.etsy.com/listing/151397543/pdf-instant-download-pattern-crochet (Crochet) https://www.etsy.com/listing/549190569/diamond-patterned-scale-dice-bags
  5. If you are always going to wear the cape and will have someone to help you dress, a zipper could work. This is a piece I've been working on.
  6. An individual contraction/expansion will create a 5-1 ring and a 3-1 ring. A vertical line of consecutive contractions/expansions in every row will create a 5-1 on one end of the line and a 3-1 on the other end. It sounds like you're doing it right. If you want to get fancy, you can use a ~10% larger diameter ring for the 5-1 and a ~10% smaller ring for the 3-1. It makes them slightly less noticeable.
  7. Galvanized steel has a lot of problems. The low price is the only upside.
  8. Yeah, 3/8 12g will be a tighter weave than 7/16 12g. The term is "Aspect Ratio" or AR. It's the ratio between the ring diameter and the wire diameter, and it tells you how tight or loose a particular weave will appear, regardless of ring size. On the TRL shopping site, you'll see the AR value listed with the other ring specs. The rings in your source image look to have an AR somewhere between 4 and 5. If the lowermost belt is 1.25" to 1.5" wide, then the rings are about 3/8" to 7/16", and an AR of 4-5 puts you in the 14g - 12g range. This is just guessing based on personal experience. I'd recommend ordering a couple different sizes first and make a few test patches before putting in a large bulk order. If you want to skip that step, I'd vote for 12g 7/16". How much coverage are you looking for? Are you going to overlap the maille in the front like the picture implies, or skip rings that would be covered? Are you continuing the rings up underneath the leather harness up top? Skipping the hidden rings will shave a few thousand off the count. Getting the maille to hang like that is going to be a challenge. You'll need a trapezoidal panel to get the 12"-14" overlap up top and the 6"-8" gap at the bottom, and you're going to need to hide in a bunch of expansion to match the artists lines (the artist cheated :-) ). Also, if you use steel, the weight is going to make the skirt portion hug your legs. Aluminum or plastic rings have a better chance of flaring out with the jupon. How are you making the jupon?
  9. When you attach the straps, make the distance between the shoulder straps in the back about 4" wider than the distance between them in the front. And before you zip up the body tube, would you be willing to post X/Y measurements and row/column ring counts of your giant rectangle? I'm not sure the TRL number on rings/sqft for 16g 7/32" is accurate. Last time I plotted all the rings/sqft data, that data point looked out of place.
  10. I also spent more time retailoring my first scale piece than I spent initially constructing it. Panels of scales just don't shape to the body like E4-1 does.
  11. Paladin, what size scales and rings are in your images of closed-hand E4-1 to scales tests?
  12. Zedzknight is making this for cosplay. Replicating the artist's vision *is* the goal. I'd try E4-1 12g 3/8 or 12g 7/16, based on Zlosk's measurements and erring on the side of bigger, chunkier rings.
  13. With scales, rolling a sheet into a narrow tube and stitching up the seam is awkward. I'd start at the wrist with a completed circle and work upwards adding more rows and expansions as needed. I'd also either leave the armpit open or switch from scales to maille for that part.
  14. http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.php?oldkey=263