Eric

It's mostly practice. There's a sweet spot between the two extremes, and every ring size/material/weave combination will have an ideal pliers size and type for your hands. If a tool isn't working for you, try a different one. Don't use your pinkies if you are leaving tool marks. Pinkies add a lot of leverage, but they don't have the motor control the other fingers have. Get as much contact with the ring's surface as you can. Use adduction/abduction of the wrist (stroking fur) and try to avoid flexion/extension (revving a motorcycle) Fine control is the key to clean rings. Tool Magic/Plasti-dip helps, but it doesn't last long and needs regular reapplication. I use Vetwrap on my pliers' handles to shape them to my hand.

This is a (1,2) Goldberg sphere (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goldberg_polyhedron#/media/File:Conway_polyhedron_Dk5sI.png) 60 hexagons, 12 pentagons, 210 edges. The large rings are the hexagons. The medium rings are the pentagons. The small rings are the edges. Every ring is doubled, so you'll need: 120 Large rings 24 Medium rings 420 Small rings These rigid spheres are really sensitive to using the correct ring sizes. There's not much room between a partially finished ball that doesn't have enough curvature to close up and one that feels like a mushy water balloon. Ignore the advice to just guess and follow ZiLi's guides on ring sizes if you don't want to reinvent the wheel.

Is SCALELG-Titanium supposed to have Mix & Match pricing like SCMed-TI does?

Bright, shiny brass exposed to air will tarnish over time. Usually goes greenish, but it can pick up different colors depending on what else is around (see https://www.sciencecompany.com/Patina-Formulas-for-Brass-Bronze-and-Copper.aspx) Bright brass is preserved with protective coating, like lacquer or Renaissance Wax. I use Brasso on a brass & stainless piece to quickly restore the shine, but the ammonia in Brasso will discolor aluminum.

SS16516-bulk out of stock 😨

http://www.theringlord.org/forum/index.php?/topic/9598-scale-tutorial/ Have you seen this tutorial for scales?

There's another method to do skinny scale straps so they don't lift up under tension.

A sheet of scales doesn't fully stabilize until you have a 5x5 diamond, and any individual scales with fewer than four connections will flop around a little. There's a separate technique called "edging" or "edge stabilization" that keeps the outside scales from rotating and exposing the holes on the in the next row.

The difference between a square mantle and round mantle is where the expansions are placed. If they're in the same location in every row, that's a square. Spreading them out so they aren't stacked makes a circle. Changing the number of expansions per row changes the 3D shape. 6 or 7 per row makes a flat disc. 4 or 5 per row makes a shallow cone or pyramid. 1-3 per row makes a sharp cone. Zero expansions per row makes a cylinder. Those numbers are per-row average. If you alternate having 12 expansions in one row and zero in the next, that makes a flat, very round circle. You can also make the shape oval by having more expansions near your shoulders and fewer on your chest/back. That's for Euro 4-1. With dragonscale, the same rules apply, but expansions don't blend into the rest of the weave (example: http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.php?key=495), so a visually smooth curve is going to be harder. Dragon scale does form a nice wide V. If you don't hate the geometric look, a V front and back with seams on your shoulders could look pretty sharp. No expansions needed.

What calculation got you to 275lbs?

I'm getting the same number: 75ksi * (18swg ^ 2) * pi/4 * 2 =~ 275lbs , but that's just the absolute upper bound--what it would take to break two strands of load balanced 18swg stainless wire. Pushing a dagger through the ring creates wedge leverage and initiates cracks. I suspect the force required at the handle is much less than 275lbs.

Stick a piece of painters tape to the back of some of your scales. Like every 5th row or so. Helps me to keep track when doing tricky seams. If the pieces are long enough to also stick out the front, they are easy to find and peel off when you're done.

If the connecting rings aren't welded or riveted, it won't be stab-resistant. Any ring you can twist open with pliers can just as easily be opened with a knife. Also, as a general rule, life safety equipment is horrible place to start a first time DIY project. Not trying to dissuade you from an enjoyable hobby--just want you to be 100% realistic.

If you were to tackle a similar project again, what would you do differently?

Lar Large and small scales layered

My first shirt was galvanized steel. My advice for you: start over in stainless. Cutting and tumbling your own rings, you're probably going to sink over a hundred hours into this project. You should be happy with the end result. You care about the appearance, and galvanized steel isn't going to get you to your goal. This site has hundreds of products in stainless steel and only a handful of options in galvanized, presumably because that's what their customers want to buy. Don't look at the work you've done so far as a waste though. You've gotten experience; your cuts are cleaner; your rings are flatter; your closures are tighter. Your technique is better and you're leaving fewer tool marks. And, even better--you got that practice in on cheap steel.

If you're worrying about your own closures, you would not be happy with the quality of the pre-made shirts at those prices. 14g 5/16" stainless is 3.7 lbs/sqft. Stop at your belt, or keep weaving until mid-thigh. Or wear a cup when you walk. Tips for weaving: if it hurts, stop for the day. You started a marathon of a project. It'll be done when it's done. Try Vetwrap on your pliers' handles (https://www.amazon.com/3M-Vetrap-Bandaging-Yards-Black/dp/B000FA201C)

Aluminum rings will be fine, and the saved weight will be more comfortable. Get a small bag of steel rings for maintenance, and if a ring pops open, replace it with a steel one. Are you making a harness or strapping to hold them up, or are you attaching them to a vest?

If you use Twitch, mckrakenworkshop just completed a pair of scale sleeves. If you catch one of her live streams, she can answer your questions while showing you the finished sleeves. Might be more fruitful than text answers. https://www.twitch.tv/mckrakenworkshop

(Bicep circumference in inches) * (Sleeve length in inches) * 2 * 1000 / 144 The numbers represent 2 sleeves, 1000 small scales/sqft, and 144 sqin/sqft. If you do large scales, use 300 instead of 1000 This is the maximum number of scales you'd need. Tapering the sleeves will cut that number down. If you are buying colored anodized aluminum scales, you may want to buy all the materials for the project at once. Future batches may not be manufactured exactly the same shade. What do you plan to do with these sleeves? Are you replicating a particular look or character? How much range of motion do you need (low: standing, posing; medium: eating, drinking, shopping; or high: fighting; stunts)

Looks like about 10500 rings currently. Maybe 1500 more to go?

Which direction does the weave hang on your sleeves? Open or closed when your arm hangs at your side?

If you want to add a contraction/expansion in the middle of a finished sheet, you will need to add or remove many scales. If your contraction takes a row from, say, 20 scales wide to 19 scales wide, then every row below that point will also be 19 scales wide. Doing that in the middle of a sheet requires removing one scale from every row below that point. For your first shirt, it's hard to know where to place contractions before you've built the shirt and tried it on to see where it puckers. Chicken and egg problem. Go through the gallery and inspect the scale shirts and look closely for the contractions. I remember using Lorenzo's and Paladin's images for references when I started doing scale work. See the attached photos. They may help show the behavior of expansions and contractions in different places. They will add a little definition, but I think something like this link combined with tailoring will be much more effective: https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=130769 Scales are a little body conformal, but not nearly as much as maille. Tailoring really helps.

What size blanket do you want? What weight? With those two numbers we can give you ring sizes, material options, price, and estimated construction time.

I build up from the bottom. It's significantly faster for me to add scales to the top of a sheet. The drawback is not being able to easily test fit the work. I also make panels of ~300 scales and connect them later. Is this your first shirt or your first scale shirt?