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Posts posted by Ninjafudo

  1. I like the first draft of the scale coif too but it did some very uncomfortable things while i was waring and fighting in it. Falling down into my eyes and falling off and choking me are two of them. The aluminum scale and rings also leave a bit of a residue on things they touch and rub against. This grayish dust was making me look a little undead after about an hour so... as much as I liked the look of the Magneto/Juggernaut looking helm the changes I made are mainly for function rather than esthetics. That being said I think I might bring in the neck just a little.

    I will try to get some more pics of the scale coif up some time after the holiday. The area where the back and sids meet was one of the trickiest bits of maille I have ever done and I don't know if both sides match. That little areas were the sides and the back meet with the top is improvised at best. That being said scales of this size are very forgiving for things like that as the scales cover any areas where all the rings don't line up quite right.

    If you want the scale to be more sturdy and stick to your head better, try Fooling around with a sort of leather skeleton idea. It is easy enough to secure a couple rings through some leather and the scale mail rings and this adds a new kind of stiffness/sturdiness. it also means you can take an otherwise clothlike material (scale mail) and turn it into a kind of helmet that would probably stand on its own and not fall down, especially if it was custom fitted to your own head.

  2. Where do you get your leather. The fabric stores around here can order it for me but wee hee is it expensive. i have looked at a few places that will send it to me but again shipping drive the price up. If you don't mind me asking where and how much do you normally pay for the leather you use. If anyone has a good place to get leather on the east coast.

    Thanks Darhton

    Yeah I agree with the above. I get mine from Tandy as well, except. I get my tandy leather from hobby lobby. Usually I buy the bags with semi large amounts of scrap and I get a few good pieced here and there. You would probably be a lot better off though doing as Straad said and buying directly from them.

  3. I really like these and i just wish i knew how to work with leather a little more than i would be following your lead here in no time. Greaves bracers and gloves are the only things i don't have as far as self made scale armor goes. If you can give me any pointers i would sure like that.

    Thanks Darthon

    I have some pictures of the bottoms of the greave, maybe that will help?

    They are at the last half of this link.. this is an album of mostly all of the armor related stuff I have made.

    I don't really form the leather too much. Mostly my "skill" with it comes to poking holes in it with a simple hammer driven hole punch and cutting it with a good pair of scissors. After that I just use rings like most people use rivets.

    If you need more help just ask.


  4. Sorry Kridiot :'(.... But really You should post the bottom of your dice bag on here for everyone to see. After all someone asked you right? I wouldn't mind you taking back your own thread :).... infact I would feel less guilty.

  5. I have made a bunch of dicebags too! Not all of them have been maille related (most of mine are leather), but here are the few that I have made.

    stats from left to right

    *14 gauge 3/8" galv. and 15 gauge 3/8" copper, Mostly euro 4 in 1

    **15 gauge copper with not so consistent ID... (somewhere close to 5/16" ID) (i used a hand shaved wooden dowel thats why its not uniform ^_^) The webbing is just some jewelry wire of a gauge I don't even know. I just made it into a kind of dream-catcher pattern. There are also random bits of 16 gauge "tye wire" in there somewhere... and various large rings. Mostly Euro 4 in 1 and some ring finagling.

    ***and questionmark blue material probably anodized aluminum (?)with an ID around 3/8" and a gauge around 14 or 15, (got it from a friend's broken dicebag that he bought online. I fixed it for him + made it cooler as a b-day gift.) The copper is 15 gauge and a close to 5/16" ID, the silver is stainless steel 3/8" ID from TRL. Mostly half persian 3 in 1 (blue/blue and copper), done in two different ways and connected together kinda like Euro 4 in 1 with the stainless steel.






  6. ********************************************************


    Originally Posted by Allerion viewpost.gif

    Hi Everyone,

    I'd just like to make a request for future posters (this pertains mainly to makers and wearers of maille armor).

    First, let me just say that I admire the fantastic craftsmanship and creativity of the people here, and love to see jewelry and armor in photos. Your work is just amazing, especially when worn with matching attire or in a nice setting.

    But one small thing can really drag down an otherwise artful photograph:


    Please, people - if you are going to go through the trouble of making maille attire, wearing it with fantasy or historic costume, and even going to a matching location to have a photo taken, *leave your glasses with the photographer*

    You don't need them to pose for a photo, and you'll get them right back. I guarantee you will be happier with the picture, and so will all your viewers."


    if glasses are such a big deal and you are so worried about historical accuracy, then why my friend wouldn't you complain about the fact that most chainmail was not made from butted round wire, BUT actually made with riveted flat washer-like rings or punch outs? Answer that one.

    For someone like me who can't see well without glasses (most people with glasses I am assuming), walking around in persay a ren. faire setting without them wouldn't go over very well. Ive tried wearing contacts but they hurt my eyes too much. Posting pictures without glasses on is harmless enough and easy to do, Ill give you that... and you might look better too, but really.... it's not too big of a deal to most people here that want to appreciate art and craft alike.

  7. Below is a link to a facebook picture album of all the jewelry I have made so far (mostly chainmail and leather).


    If you could tell me what you like or don't like I would appreciate the feedback.

    And I always love to try something new, so any neat idea's or suggestions of things you have seen before/done before would be Cool with me too.



  8. this is what i did with two opals.. I don't know if the picture is good enough to tell what i did.. but i basically made a Euro four in one flat bracelet, then made it round by connecting the two opposite sides (folding it hot dog style, not hamburger.... or width-wise not length wise) and then where i wanted the gems, i left a spot open for them, i put the gems where i wanted them and i kind of added rings to the weave to surround it and then i added a bigger ring to "see through" to the gems, and i had to solder the rings holding it because it was semi-tight and the rings were weak, but as far as i know it holds the gems well even after a couple years.


  9. with smaller rings try a wrapped (or double) 4 in 1 spiral weave.. where you take two 4 in 1 spirals and wrap them around eachother.. BUT, make sure you count the rings for each 4 in 1 spiral ahead of time to make sure you have the same amount of rings in each spiral, and THEN wrap them around eachother... otherwise you have to count After.. and that just sucks...

    the normal 4 in 1 spiral weave



    the wrap after you wrap them together....


    closer up...


    the bracelet I made using it...


    oh and using mobius flowers (as I've heard them called) works pretty good too, like this.. its simple and looks quite nice for a simple weave.


    then there is full Persian 6 in 1



    and then you can get into trapping gems in them, like opals... the chain is just 4 in 1 made round (I don't know the tech. name for it, but this bracelet is as many rings wide as it shows in the middle (where it is not connected together) minus one ring. I had to do some soldering and some Jerry-rigging to get the gems to stay in and to get the rings to hold the gems, but it worked out after some fudging around.



  10. Well, I'm no genius, but I would use Stainless Steel large scales and 14 gauge 5/16" ID(or a tiny tiny bit bigger than 5/16".. like 11/32" I.D.) stainless steel butted rings if you are really good at closing them tight (to reduce the probability that a scale will get caught.. also I think the larger gauge reduces that probability as well).

    If you intend to braze them or weld them somehow, go with butted 16 (or 18 gauge if you are really that concerned about weight) gauge 5/16" ID stainless steel rings.

    If you do weld them or braze them, dipping the rings in water (just a bit at a time, the same way you would heat treat something) while they are red hot or straw colored hot will harden them a little bit to a lot. This will offset the problem of annealing the metal. Just be sure to dry the scales and rings off after getting the rings (and likely the scales as well) wet, since the scales will rust if left wet even though they are stainless.

    stainless clad aluminum sounds good but im one for functionality. I like to know I can get hit with something realistically hard and not have my armor fall apart or get severely damaged... and since scales tend to be weak and thin as it is, I would stick with a harder material like stainless, but like I mentioned, that is just a personal preference.