Jump to content

TheMuffinmaster

Members
  • Content Count

    37
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About TheMuffinmaster

  • Rank
    Apprentice
  • Birthday 08/27/1992
  1. TheMuffinmaster

    Does anyone else have this problem?

    I generally don't like web weaves as they seem fairly insubstantial, leaving big holes in the piece and scrunching up if they're not stretched.
  2. TheMuffinmaster

    Good belt patterns?

    I think you may be referring to Persian Dragonscale or one of its variations. I've never tried any of them, butI have looked at almost every one of the thousand or so weaves in the MAIL library, so I might recognize a surprising number of them just be description. If it's the one you're thinking of, I think it's a strictly 3 row weave, meaning it'd be pretty thin vertically for a belt if made in 18g, and pretty thick in the z axis if made in 16g(which I don't really like much anyway). Do you have any other pictures of the belt you made? All I can tell is that it exists and it's elfweave. It's an artsy angle, but I can't really tell how it turned out. Also, I don't have 11/64, just the size on either side(in TRL measurement chart, meaning 5/32 and 3/16 mandrels). Would those turn out well? I will happily look over that contest thread; thanks. EDIT: I looked over it and sadly many of the picture links were broken, especially near the end. Coyote mail and Tiffany looked good, though they also looked very similar to byzantine and elfweave respectively. Gracelock really caught my eye, though. I definitely will look into that one.
  3. TheMuffinmaster

    Good belt patterns?

    Now, I've decided I really like making belts for a couple reasons. First, they look good even with big wire(18G), meaning the area-time ratio is more rewarding than usual. Second, they're the only project I could see my self using, besides perhaps a keychain. So I went ahead and made a couple- Half Persian Sheet and Trizantine Sheet, in 19g GS and 18g BA respectively. A 19.5/20g BA and brass Elfweave(which will take forwever. I'm now thinking I should've gone with 18g despite the color limitations) and 18/19.5g dragonscale belt are both in the works, and I tried Hoodoo sheet, but ran into a problem described in my other topic(if I don't find a solution, I'll go ahead and try Voodoo Sheet). Now I've run out of ideas. I'm not much interested in making a european belt, as I don't have any heavy wire between 19 and 14 gauge. Just aluminum. I'm not the kind of person to put a lot of work into a copy of something I've already made, so I'm looking for some of the more exotic weaves, but I can't find many decent looking sheet patterns. I'm looking for something fairly regular, so the edges won't be too jagged, so most sheet versions of unit weaves are out. I'm not interested in weaves that are technically different, but really just slight variations of something I already did(eg. byzantine to my trizantine, unless you think they'll look more different than I do). Cloudy Day looks promising, but I haven't gotten to try it yet and it looks like the resulting weave will be very thin, and feel light/flimsy. Has anyone tried it before? The only other thing that comes to mind is a Japanese weave, but I've never done the sheet ones and they look like they zigzag severely. Not to mention that it's full of giant holes and probably won't look too substantial. EDIT: I love the looks of Moorish Rose. It looks like a monster of a weave to learn, though, and I'm wondering if it would lie nicely in a piece as thin as a belt and if it would zigzag. So suggesting good weaves for belts(especially to be made in 18g) would be rather helpful.
  4. TheMuffinmaster

    Does anyone else have this problem?

    Well, I know it's been a while since I've posted here, so howdy. Anyway, while doing a routine exploration of MAIL Artisans' weave library, I happened across the sheet version of Hoodoo and decided it looked amazing. Initially I gave up because the tutorial listed was impossible, but I found a different method later and got going. Here's the problem I keep running into- either it's extremely floppy and loose(4.5 AR), or it's impossible to keep all the rings making those perfect upright points(6 AR) . If I fix one, the one next to it pops down because of the pressure. I looked at a bunch of pictures of real life samples, and they all seemed to have the same issue. Is this just chance, meaning I'm doing it wrong, or is it normal for this to happen? I'd go ahead and try 5.0, but I don't have any of those rings and that's well above the listed "suggested AR," which is 4.
  5. TheMuffinmaster

    Simple inlay question

    So a friend has asked me to make her a bracelet with an inlay of her name- Olivia. I have colored rings which I estimate are around 6/32 or 7/32, 20 gauge enameled copper from TRL. Alternatively, I have 20 GA EC and aluminum 1/8" rings/wire, for what it's worth. Anyway, I've guessed that using the bigger rings, E 6-1 with a HP trim on either edge would look nice. First question is if that be tight enough for a good looking inlay. Second, I've never done an inlay before. Now before you tell me I should've looked around first, I'll have you know I did, and this is all I found: http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.cgi?key=101973 A good guide, no doubt, but I was hoping that since all I need are the letters "Olivia,"(Or "OLIVIA," if that would be easier to make with such large rings) rather than a whole picture, there's a simpler way to find out how to make the inlay. Again, I've never done this before, so I know next to nothing about this. Any help would be appreciated, just please no more of those "Research before asking, you're wasting my time," posts I've received in the past. I've looked around and what I found wasn't what I was looking for. If you don't like that, you don't have to post.
  6. TheMuffinmaster

    Half Persian 4-1 w/ Euro 4-1

    Call me crazy, but isn't it the other way around? The Half Persian's on both sides of E 4-1?
  7. TheMuffinmaster

    MAILLE FAQ - All you need to know and then some

    First off I think you should mention http://cgmaille.com/tutorials.shtml is a ridiculously easy/helpful starting point for learning good starter weaves. I think it would also be useful to add a short list of the most popular weaves that are also fast and super easy, just to give people an idea of where to start. I'm thinking weaves like... Byzantine http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.cgi?key=169 European 4-1 http://cgmaille.com/tutorials/hp4-1.shtml (Although this is not the method I use. I make the strips from individual 5 rings units, and join individual strips by "stitching" up the middle. This way you don't have to always be holding your entire piece all the time you're working.) Half Persian 4-1(I would say 3-1, but I think we can all agree it's about the same difficulty and looks much nicer) http://cgmaille.com/tutorials/hp4-1.shtml Full Persian http://cgmaille.com/tutorials/fullpersian.shtml Candy Cane Cord http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.cgi?key=149847 RM/Boxchain http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.cgi?key=6217 Fieldstone http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.cgi?key=99337 Basic spiral http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.cgi?key=6197 And then maybe a tier 2 list- weaves that are a little trickier, but still pretty fast or easy once you get the hang of them. Elfweave http://cgmaille.com/tutorials/elfweave.shtml (and sheet thereof). http://cgmaille.com/tutorials/elfsheet.shtml Hp 6-1 sheet. http://cgmaille.com/tutorials/hpsheet6.shtml Byzantine sheet. http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.cgi?key=13016 Dragonscale http://cgmaille.com/tutorials/dragonscale.shtml And that's all off the top of my head.
  8. TheMuffinmaster

    hackey sacks

    I'm an avid hackey sack player and have never used a chainmail one before, but I know that most hackey sacks come with plastic beads inside of them. That's what I used until I discovered the wonders of dirtbags. Fill a cloth "shell" with sand and you will never, ever want to go back to plastic beads. Sand makes the whole game worlds easier, and you'll notice how the beads made the hackey sack too light, unpredictable, bouncy, etc. The idea of putting rings in there interests me, though. I like the idea that I wouldn't have to make a cloth layer inside, because sewing tightly enough is a real pain. If anyone here has done that, would you mind going into more detail on how well it works? Lastly, I have one problem with the tutorial. I'm working on a hackey sack/dirtbag myself and I'm using 1/8" 19 gauge stainless steel rings. The tutorial is only good for 1/4" rings, and my rings are half that size. I don't know how closely to follow it as far as expansions go, and it doesn't even say how wide the diameter of the end product is. All in all, to answer your question, the tutorial posted would let you start pumping out hackey sacks very fast indeed, but they might not end up working very well. If you want a really good one, a good general rule of thumb is the smaller and denser each individual unit of the filling is, the better the end product.
  9. TheMuffinmaster

    hackey sacks

    That tutorial looks more like a juggling ball to me. All that cloth probably would give it far too much bounce to be useful as a hackey sack.
  10. TheMuffinmaster

    Belt clasp

    Long time no see, people. So I've spent approximately all my convenient/fitting free time this week working on a HP sheet belt, one of my biggest projects to date. Almost done, it's 35.5 inches long and 1.25 inches wide. Rings are about 1/4" ID, 19 gauge galvanized steel. This is my first experience with sheet Persian and I love it. This weave just does not get old so far. Anyway, now that I'm nearing the end of my project, I've been wondering how I'm going to connect the ends. I'm at a loss here, especially seeing as I've never done a belt before. One of my concerns is that the individual rings are not especially strong, and I wouldn't be confident that one or two could hold the ends together against the force of them pulling apart over a long period of time. It would be nice to make it adjustable, but it seems like it would be hard to fit something into the already tight weave. Any general opinions on the project would be nice too,
  11. TheMuffinmaster

    Which size?

    I'm pretty sure mild steel is, in a way, raw steel. That is to say, galvanized mild steel is just called galvanized steel. Back on topic, I'm a bit shorter than that(not to mention 140 lbs), but I can't imagine why a slight ID change and a couple inches could account for your hauberk taking more than twice what mine plus the mantle are predicted to take. Any ideas? Oh, and any thoughts on these plans? http://www.bladeturner.com/pattern/hauberk/hauberk.html
  12. TheMuffinmaster

    Better than saw cut?

    I just started on my chainmail suit using 5/16" 14 gauge steel, and I cut the rings with aviator shears. I've found that if I push the coil back a bit so that I have about 4 potential rings between the blades, then squeeze till just one cuts(doesn't take much- it just snaps apart after a bit), the cut ring's ends actually line up nicely, instead of getting misshapen. For small rings, I use a dremel. Very fast for cutting aluminum, and they're clean, lined up ends and such, but the thing that annoys me is having to manually close the kerf on each ring. Not necessary on shear cuts, but it still is better than fixing misshapen 1/8" 0.8mm aluminum shear cur rings. THAT is tricky business.
  13. TheMuffinmaster

    Which size?

    Clarification: I didn't do another calculation because I didn't have the measurements. I did the calculation quite a while ago, not knowing I'd buy a smaller rod. I don't have the measurements because I'm not the only person it's supposed to fit. Anyway, thanks for the help. That number is for both the hauberk and the mantle, so it sounds like I'll have enough for the suit either way. Now to find hauberk plans...
  14. TheMuffinmaster

    Which size?

    I just purchased half a mile of 14 gauge steel wire from fleet farm as well as two metal rods- 3/8" aluminum and 5/16" steel. The wire seems nice and stiff. Now I had already used TRL calculator to find out that I need about 2200 feet of the stuff for a hauberk and coif, using the 3/8" ID. Will I have enough wire for the smaller size? No need to calculate it, I'd just like an estimation.
  15. TheMuffinmaster

    Laptop help, please.

    Though I'm very interested in that idea, I just don't have the money to get a desktop too(no income). I hate to pass up a nice deal with an i5, but it seems almost all good laptop deals have one little thing that spoils the deal. Here's another one I found. $700. http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-HP-Pavilion-dv4-dv4t-14-512MB-NVIDIA-4GB-DDR3-WIN7_W0QQitemZ110489868407QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLaptops_Nov05?hash=item19b9b59877 EDIT: Also http://www.notebookreview.com/price/product.asp?productFamilyID=1243&pid=245664
×