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About maillebob

  • Rank
  • Birthday 12/06/1960

Profile Information

  • Location
    Portland, OR
  • Interests
    mialle, photography, mercedes maintanence
  • The year you started making chainmail
  1. maillebob

    Got my rings and OH GOD MY HANDS!

    Leverage, that's the key. Followed closely by padding to spread the pressure on your hand over a greater surface area. I use the long reach pliers that I've modified to have shorter jaws. Whenever I try to use normal pliers, even 7" ones, they make my hands sore and cramp. My pliers only work for people with large hands though.
  2. maillebob

    Question about dust

    This thread has devolved from the original question about metal sawdust to a discussion about the toxicity of zinc, vapor and dust, but since we have... Copper? Aluminium? Brass? Bronze? Silver? Stainless Steel? Couldn't the same be said pretty much of any metal dust? It's all toxic and dangerous? For example, OSHA's website lists Copper dust PEL as 1 mg/m3 -- that's 1/10th that of Zinc, and yet nobody is discussing how dangerous it is to saw cut copper rings at home. In short, don't breathe the fumes, don't breathe the dust, no matter what metal you're saw cutting, and do whatever you can to minimize generation of vapor and dust. If you're concerned you can't safely saw your rings, then leave the sawing to TRL or somebody and buy them.
  3. maillebob

    Question about dust

    Personally, I'm more concerned about the danger that the metal saw dust("glitter") itself presents. Regardless what metal you're using, those shavings are a lot sharper than orinary dust, and getting one in your eye is not recommended. I'm concerned enough about it that I do as others suggested -- wash and tumble the rings to knock all the shavings loose so I'm not having to cope with them as I weave. Doing the weaving with shiney, burr-free rings is a happy side effect.
  4. maillebob

    how to make peices faster

    This almost goes without saying, but I find that where I use the preclosed rings in the weave can make a huge difference in my weaving speed, even with simple E 4-1. So if you've only learned one procedure with the preclosed rings, try using them at different places in the weave to see if there's a faster way for you. Also, sometimes whether a ring is opened right-handed or left-handed can make it easier to thread into the weave and/or close once woven in, so try that too. Subcontract to someone in China? (just joking)
  5. maillebob

    Ringinator Issues (Still)

    Original poster's issue: Ringinator blade breaks teeth while cutting aluminium. Buck and kick noticed and assumed to be time when blade breaks. In deference to Bernice, yeah, Ringinator isn't a TRL product, thanks for letting us dicuss it here anyway I ran into similar issues on my setup.. not using the same blades nor metals, but my solution might be helpful. I tracked my issue down to the cut rings binding on the blade. Once they were cut and loose, the tended to rattle around on the blade and every so often, it would buck and kick, which I also assumet to be when I broke a tooth. The kerf of the rings was just wide enough to allow them to jiggle around and, I suspect, every so often wedge anglewise against the sides of the blade. Then the ring would go for a ride, and a tooth broke before the rotating mass and motor could be stopped. I (mostly) solved my problem by lowering the blade so it just barely cuts through the wire of the rings (Martin suggests washers, I made some shims for finer height control). That helped, but wasn't enough for me. The remainder of my solution ended up being to mount the ringinator with the coil channel to be vertical, feed in the top, cut rings fall out the bottom. That way, as soon as a ring is cut free, it can very quickly be jiggled free of the blade. In my setup, it can still take a few seconds before a cut ring can fall free.. and every so often, I still get a ring binding and the coil bucks, but at least I don't break teeth anymore. With my setup and the wire I'm working, my kerf is effectvely the width of the "body" of the blade. I suspect with Martin's blades, which make a wider kerf than the blade body, the rings will fall free faster and you'll have even less problems than I do.
  6. maillebob

    How do you people do it??

    You might try some long reach pliers.. something like this from Harbor Freight. I have 45 and 90 bent versions that I use. I've even shortened the jaws on some for additional leverage, but they're still pretty useable as is. I can't imagine doing stainless with less leverage, especially at the 0.25 in. 18 GA size and smaller. I find that the smaller the ring, the harder it is to work.
  7. maillebob

    Historic Quandary

    I don't know if I'd limit the possible weaves based only historically "known occurrences". It must have taken a long time and a very good artist to capture the necklace in such detail. Moreel's wife probably had other necklaces to choose from, so this one probably had great sentimental value or was so unique they wanted to show it off for posterity. Consider also that Moreel was the one paying for the artist's time, so why would he let his wife wear such an intricate necklace? If Moreel was a jeweler, or had a special connection to one, then perhaps he wanted to have the uniqueness of the weave shown -- it may well have been a first piece of a unique weave that nobody else had figured out how to do yet. I'd go with whatever weave seems to match it best, irrespective of whether historians think that weave had been invented yet or not.
  8. maillebob

    White Rings

    If you're willing to make your own rings, there's PVC coated wire out there, and I recall a fairly recent discussion about powder coating, but can't recall if it was an academic or product discussion.
  9. maillebob


    Made mine J 4-1, three rows wide. Made a three-tine buckle from some heavy gauge wire and added a three-prong hook on the end so I could hook the dangling end to the band. Works pretty well.
  10. maillebob

    Newbie Question

    The rings may not be fully round after being cut from the coil. TRLs machine cut AA are pretty round, but not as perfect as their sawcut AA rings. When I shear cut my own rings, one side is always a tad stretched and I have to reclose it with my pliers to get the ends of the rings to meet. As long as the ring ends up round enough after closing for your tastes, don't worry about it.. you'll get better with practise.
  11. maillebob

    Attaching Wire to Small Mandrels

    Use a small C-clamp to sandwich the mandrel between a small block of wood (with a V groove for the mandrel) and one side of the clamp. Or wrap some blue paint masking tape around it a few time and clamp on a small set of locking pliers. Or bend an end of the wire and stuffing it in the gaps between the jaws of the drill chuck. Or cut a small slot in the end of the mandrel and slip the end of wire into that. On some of my mandrels I've bent the end into a handle for hand winding and just wrap the wire around the handle.
  12. maillebob

    Need a black clasp of some kind

    You could make one out of some stainless steel wire, then torch it till it glows. It'll only be grey when it cools, but that coating will outlast the anodizing.
  13. For a few $ a hardware store should be able to sell you a twist drill of that size. If you have a set, that size may already be in it. You can wind some wire around the shank (not the flutes). Cutting them is the difficult part. Diagonal snips will be available from hardware or craft store, but nail clippers might suffice (and be cheap to replace when they get dull). Next best would be some sort of shear cutter, like a pair of sheet metal snips. Neither will be the same as saw cut, and because of the lack of a saw kerf, your rings will be slightly larger, and the closures won't look as nice. Twist drills and a pair of Weiss tin snips on soft wire is what I started with way back when.
  14. How the rings are cut (saw, shear or pinch) will make a measurable difference at that size. It could be up to an extra row every few cm. Its better to have leftover than not quite enough. Can you simply order 25% more than you think you'll need and pass that along to them as materials cost? Also, go buy some inexpensive 24AWG craft wire for a few $ and make some up. That will give you the best idea of how many rings you'll need. The practice with the soft wire won't hurt and you might learn a lot of other valuable things about the project in the process that'll make it turn out even better.
  15. maillebob

    help needed

    Exactly. And once you break the plating layer, rust can creep uner and delaminate it, like the chrome plating on an old bumper.