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Maugan22

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About Maugan22

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  • Birthday 05/21/1982

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  1. Hey guys, Had a thought regarding etched scales that would be a bit useful for mailing. In a world where near everything is made in china by sweat shop labour. I find a major selling feature of my work is that it's %100 Canadian both manufactured and woven. A bag of mixed AA large scales etched on the inside (concave side) with a simple "Made in Canada" (or whichever country the mailer resides for that matter) is something I'd be very interested in.
  2. Maugan22

    ring count

    I'm now realizing that I misread BA as an acronym, my comments pertain to non-finished aluminum rather than bright aluminum.
  3. Maugan22

    New To Scales. Suggestions?

    Oh I certianly agree, boffer weapons have no-where near the durability needs of something like SCA where you're using rattan. We play pretty regularly, I've seen 16g 3/8 galvanized 4:1 mail tear darn near in half on one of our orc Berzerkers (that was a lengthy repair I can tell ya) I think in that case the weight of the suit was actually its own undoing coupled with a bit of neglect. In my books no repairs ever is much better than occasional repairs. I like the idea of things being heirloom quality. For most of my projects the increse in weight for a 200 scale bra is marginal. If weight were an issue I'd be more inclined to experiment with 18g 5/16 Stainless rather than risk AA. I guess 14g 5/16 AA might be an option too.
  4. I think to start throwing criticism at the work of others unfortunatelly drags the whole hobby down. Your average buyer doesn't geek out the way we do about closures or SS vs AA, they see something they like and might have an impulse-buy for something that sits in a closet for the rest of their lives. Your average buyer doens't know the value of AA vs niobium. For those buyers your marketing strategy is much more important than how pristine your closures are or what material you use. If they're making some cash good on them... if they piss off a customer with a costume malfunction... hey time to sell them something quality. As an avid larper anything I sell needs to stand up to vigorous use, when I sell to folks I tell them about the benefits to proper durability of materials, environental stewardship and buying north american. Some buyers are really into it, most couldn't care less and just want to be decked in shiny scales without all the chatter. My one exception to this is I DO get serriously up in the grill of folks who will buy mass produced crap from third world countries. A) the quality is horrible, I've spent hours repairing a friend's shirt in an effort to keep it from being thrown out. B) Child labour is still a serrious problem on this planet, I worry that alot of the cheep mail on the internet is made by tiny little hands. C) Environmental issues.
  5. Maugan22

    Ren fair etiquette? (Re: exclusives)

    I was new to the maille scene this summer and attended my first convention with only a couple of items. I was very consious of the existing maille artisan there and specifically approached him about, "hey I'm new to the scene", "my kit is wildly different from yours". "Hope you don't mind..." He was very accepting, very supportive, we actually hung out and talked shop for hours. I think the crucial thing here is that your competition views this as a full time job whereas my friend and I are both folks who make some money on the side with something that's predominantly a hobby. Come between someone and their paycheque (particularly in this economy) and you're much more likely to raise heckles. For whatever it's worth I find that word of mouth is a far better sales tactic than conventions. I'd recommend staying classy, vent here but stay civil with the organizers. Don't get in all out war and make your own business through other channels.
  6. Maugan22

    ring count

    I have a friend who does many tops in AA and EPDM rubber, I've seen some of his clients wearing them at conventions for long hours and they seem very strong and durable. I'd say that a pure AA top would be much less durable compared to a mix of AA and EPDM, The rubber absorbs most of the flex leaving the AA rings fully intact, it also lowers surface wear. I would never use bare aluminum for another project, I have a bare aluminum scale shirt and I need to launder the fabric beneath twice to get it clean. I can also attest that BA leaves dark powder on bare skin particularly in the under breast region for bras. best to spend a few extra bucks and make it clean as well as pretty. Also as a side note check your municipal/national laws as to what constitutes street legal, you may be surprised. In Canada for instance street legality only pertains to bottons. There is no legal reguirement for anyone to wear anything above the waist, though you can still offend people or be cited for lewd behavior.
  7. Maugan22

    Suggestions on adding padding to pliers

    I bought some knipex pliers from TRL this fall and while I loved the incredible leverage the handles weren't to my liking. I actually cut the ergonomic handles off another pair of pliers then lashed them on with electrical tape. I've found that the electrical tape had a nasty habit of migrating toward the base of the handles leaving a sticky mess but I've now doubled up on the electrical tape and it's holding much better. I just plan to retape the handles every month or two and It's fine. Another thing I've tried to reduce the amount you need to fight your pliers is to add a spring to unsprung pliers. even a small spring can make a huge difference, you can also just tape a little piece of foam (blue camp matt) in behind the hinge to make the jaws open a bit when not under complession.
  8. Maugan22

    New To Scales. Suggestions?

    I'm kinda skeptical of aluminum rings for scale projects, I sell alot of work (bras mostly) and strongly dislike people comming back to me with repairs (not great) or costume malfunctions (much worse). I don't use anything lighter than 16 5/16 stainless steel on my projects and for larger projects like vests I will put in a mesh of split rings as extra insurance. When assembling armor I start with a pile of 5X5 diamonds and the top row of each is made of split rings. I've also played with titanium rings (for colour on the top-row) and found them very durable and attractive.
  9. Maugan22

    Costume Chainmail Top

    If you were still after making super fine rings as per the original post 19 5/32 I'd advise looking at premade maille fabric from Mailltec and joining it with stainless steel. I got a sheet of 21g 7/32 and spent a week cutting and joining it with 18g 7/32 stainless. The result is an ultra durable vest that weighs a mere 2kg (4.4 lbs) in weight that is comfortable enough to sleep in and I can slip into my pocket when it's not in use.
  10. Maugan22

    Half persian 4-1 with square wire?

    I did a recent square SS16g 5/16 bracelet for a friend's birthday, I much prefer the square for 4:1 persian over rounded. I put in a row of rubber rings as the closed ring on one side about 1/3rd of the way around so he can stretch it on without resorting to a clasp.
  11. I've got an actor friend asking for a modification to a felt and leather gambeson to replace the tattered leather sleves with 4-1 chain. two arms 24 inch length, 16 diameter at the shoulder 12 diameter at the wrist. I figure we're looking at 5 square feet of maille. He plans to use it for stage/film and light boffer LARP. the chest of the gambeson is felt so It's not at all essential to be actually protective, just needs to look good and stand up to a lot of movement. To keep costs down I'm lookng at 16 g 7/16th stainless, howeverI just had some bad experiences with a commercially made 16g 3/8 galv suit (I'm guessing bad wire strength). It darn near disintegrated atand I'm now worried that 16g 7/16th stainless won't be as durable as I would like. The guy's a friend and I'm liable to be doing free repairs for as long as he owns the thing. If this were your project what would you quote at and what material would you use?
  12. Maugan22

    The new Tronex Pliers

    I wasn't terribly impressed with the tronex pliers. My usual medium is 16g 5/16th Stainless and I find the grip strength seems to light the metal is a bit on the flexible side and the nose is exceedingly thin.I just don't feel like it's got the gumption to close those pesky rings with a wider gap. I find that my home-modified knippex are much better for working long term. I think that the tronnex would be ideal or finer work particularly on anodized aluminum and other items with fragile surfaces.
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