Ok, so I am making a scale mantle for someone and I am having trouble and would appreciate some advice. This is a mantle made with large scales and it has 46 scales in a round with 12 rows. The middle front comes to a point and it is 20 rows deep at the widest point. My problem is the inlay (a simple cross) doesn't lie "right" when worn.
Here is a picture of the inlay before weaving. This is ideally how the inlay should look when worn.
Here is the inlay after weaving and stretched out. It looks pretty similar.
And now two pictures of me wearing it. The first is how it rests when my shoulders are relaxed. Note the bunching at the bottom. This is caused by the scales to the left and right being drawn away from the middle of the triangle due to having to stretch over the shoulders. The second image is of me with my shoulders up and the scales seem to draw upwards and point directly away from the chest.
Normally when I make these mantles I don't do nearly as many rows and never with a point in the middle. I am thinking I need to do some expansions to release some of the tension, but am unsure where would be good. Could I hide the expansions on the shoulders and provide enough relief for the middle? Or do they have to be in the triangle (near the inlay) itself?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!