Movak

I am looking for the below finding. The rings appear to be 20G 1/8". Does anyone know where I can find it? Thanks in advance.

I have one of the rubber tumbler drums and the stainless steel that comes out has a definite layer of rubber on them. They are almost a gun metal colour. It is an interesting look but not the one I want. How can I season the drum or is there another drum to buy so that does not happen?

it's long gone.

Yes it is.

I bought a ring welder from TRL last year and never got around to using it. I am falling on hard times right now and need some cash. It is in original condition except the box is missing. Jon is selling them for $525. I will part with it for $450 + S&H or best offer. If you are interested please contact me. I am trying to make my rent.

I agree completely with your advice. I am actually surprised that no one commented that it too me so long to chime in.

Please be careful when talking about changes as small as 1/32 of an inch as, due to spring back, rings of the same size may have a different actual ID if the material is different. In general harder materials have larger actual IDs.

The 1/32 will make a big difference. as it is a 20% increase in ID.

I made a bronze bra aot of 18G 3/16 and it worked quite well though it was a bit heavy.

I have to disagree with Mdewaddic. I find it is easier to make DS with the smaller ring having a smaller gauge. Flexibility has more to so witth the differnce between the inside diameter of the small ring compared to the wire diameter of the large ring. If the small and large rings are the same gauge then it reduces to AR. The thing about using a smaller gauge small ring is that you can increase the space in the ring for flexibility without increasing the OD of the small ring. I would suggest going to 20 3/16 for the small rings. Just to be complete, the small rings OD needs to be less than the ID of the large ring and the ID of the small ring must be greater than 3.6 times the wire diameter of the large ring. If the wire diameters are the same this reduces to an AR of at least 3.6 for the small ring and an AR for the large ring being the AR of the small ring plus 2. the larger the ID of the small ring the more flexible the weave.

Using multiple wraps of heavy waxed thread helps a lot. Another option I use is to make sure the rings are well closed and add a drop of superglue to the joint. The glue is not there for strength just a a fill in the gap.

I just received some of the engineered plastic rings and have a couple of concerns. The clear ones have quite a few large bubbles in them which make me wonder about their strength. All the rings are cast perfectly round. With the large separation and overlap they are significantly out of round when closed. Wouldn't it be possible to adjust the mold so that the rungs would be much closer to round when closed?

You are aware that any paint near the edge of the scale will quickly wear off due to movement of the scales. If he wears the item the paint will be gone fairly quickly. If it will hang on the wall it would be fine.

I would suggest trying to build one or two fingers first as I think that with the general thickness and lack of flexibility of 6-1 you will run into issues ... Unless all you really want to do is jazz hands. Movak