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Posts posted by Sneath

  1. Good day, everyone!


    I'm trying to down-size my stock of rings, scales, and beads that I bought but either never used, or don't use anymore.

    I'm pricing everything at the 15% TRL discount price, with further discounts available for >$100 orders. It's quite possible to make me go below cost, but I'm fine with it as long as I can clean house.




    This Google Doc has most everything I'm trying to sell off. But, it's constantly being added to as I count my stock. If there's something on the list without quantites/prices, it's because I haven't counted it yet. If you're interested in something specific that's incomplete, I can make it a priority.

    Noteable missing items from the doc are my small and large scales, tags (sm, me, lg, x-lg, & square) and packs of JBSTONE, and JBSW color.


    I also have a figurative ton of marbles that I've caged in chainmaille for years. I have 9/16" (14mm), 5/8" (16mm) player, and 1" (25mm) shooters.

    They were super popular on my Etsy, back in the day: https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sneath/sold?page=43

    Or for sculpture: http://www.theringlord.org/forum/index.php?/gallery/image/3940-marble-dodecahedron/



    If the Google Doc doesn't work, let me know.


    I'm located in Spokane, Washington in the USA.

  2. I'm torn!

    I really do love seafoam, but the difference of mint/green is a nice part of the palette.

    I also feel that since there are already 2 blue colors, sky/royal, that adding a third shade of "blue" is unnecessary (if cool), especially if it costs green HALF of its shade variations.

    But, mint and green are still a little too close in color, and seafoam IS its sort in its own category (almost silver), so I voted for seafoam.

    This will keep me up at night.

    One question though. Is there a more "teal" shade possible by the new 'saw-cut' method of anodizing? Like, between mint and seafoam (or a darker seafoam)? I don't remember it being possible before with the old anodizing style.

  3. Zero: I'll keep that in mind.

    D12: Ahh. 316 came up a lot in my search but I didn't realize TRL used it.

    Damnation: More cool factor is welcome :D

    Moon: I don't actually have a tank of my own, but I'll put them in the bath tub or something. I'll definitely try to get pics if I can get them to float...

    Notmykl: Hopefully future generations will be able to.

    Brimley: Ya... that would suck. Ammonia? Rubbing alcohol? Bleach? I may end up using rubber rings too, so I don't want to melt them.

  4. Who owns an aquarium and understands the adverse effects of metals on fish? :)

    A while back I tried making floating chainmaille mines for fish tanks (tethered to the bottom of the tank).

    I loved the look of Tetra Orb but the biggest problem was that they were usually way too heavy.



    So, I tried using rubber rings, which was definitely light enough. (not too fond of the look though)


    But, I was looking online at metals that can be in aquariums without poisoning the fish (fresh & salt) and it was a little hard to find the answers I wanted.

    I'm assuming bare aluminum, the copper-based metals, and galvy are out, but would TRL anodized aluminum or stainless be safe for fish? In fresh or salt water?

    I'm down with getting some titanium in my next order if you guys think that would be better.

  5. You didn't screw it up. Sheet 5 rolls up on its own, but its usually fine if its hanging against something. That might depend though. Like, if its bearing weight, it can force itself to curl, or sometimes it just has a mind of its own.

    I think sheet 6 is harder to make, but 5 is more "unstable" even when its finished.

    6 also makes weird uneven triangles where 5 doesn't

    Below are emblems (superman style) for a shirt I was making. The top piece was the original in HP3-6, which hung lop-sided and looked ridiculous, (it can make nice parallelograms though, if you try to make a square) and I really like the how it bends and feels, but it didn't work for my application. If you're making a bra, I think sheet 6 would work well if you can design it with the weaves shape in mind (the slant).

    The one below it is HP3-5, and the bottom of the triangle is centered!!! But I continued it up and over as the shoulder straps and the weight of the shirt hanging on it made it buckle and twist like crazy. I ended up scrapping both and going with the shirts euro weave.


    I'm not usually into the weirder weaves but if you can get hp4 to behave, and have a large enough AR you might be able to make HP4 sheet 7 >_> but I don't think that would help at all. and sheet 5 is already low. I'm not sure if sheet 5 is possible... cause that would be HP2... Good luck with that!

    The pic uses 16ga 5/16"

  6. I tried one for a little bit. What everyone's saying is true; tidy closures kinda suck.

    I didn't get blisters, like from the pressure and rub of pliers. Instead I got dents where the tool twisted into my finger. Then again, I was mostly using 16g 5/16" BA. I never got a change to test it on thinner gauge rings.

    A friend of mine thought it looked pretty cool so I gave it to her as a fashionable ring, not a tool :)

    They might be good for a plane or something, where it would be sketchy to pull out pliers and you're working with dead soft or small rings to pass the time, but I don't think I'd ever use them for something I was planning on selling.

    Did you guys use one ring with one plier? or one on each finger?