gamefreak2291

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About gamefreak2291

  • Rank
    Apprentice
  • Birthday 02/02/91

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://on.fb.me/ryanschainmail

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Indiana
  • Interests
    My interests are gaming, mailling, programming, college, and being awesome.
  1. Plasti-Dip the jaws. I had a can of it for when I was doing hours of chainmail each day. I'd use it to coat handles as well as Jaws if I needed extra grip. It peels off pretty easily if you want to remove it. I would just take a razor knife, cut a line along the dip so you have a means to pull it apart and your pliers are good as new. I will even use it on some of my teethed pliers if I want to use them on Anodized materials so they don't scratch the colors off.
  2. In the past I was using I think 16g 5/16" and 18g 3/16". When I starting buying rings vs making them slowly in my shop I was using 16g 5/16" but very quickly moved down to 18g 1/4" as my standard size since a lot of weaves can make good bracelets/necklaces and various other items in that size. So I'm gonna order some 19g 5/32" to go inside of my 18g 1/4" and go from there.
  3. I'm back to mailing after a many year hiatus. I'm wanting to jump back into with making some Dragonscale pieces. This was always my favorite weave. However when I scaled down in ring size from originally working with 16g 5/16" I was never able to get it working well enough to be much of anything. Using the appropriate AR 18g 1/4" outer rings and 18g 5/32" inner rings are what I had tried doing. I've only ever been able to make small pieces as it gets too rigid and tight to add anymore to it. I'm thinking about changing the inner ring size to 19g 5/32', does anyone know if this will allow me to make flexible pieces of Dragonscale?
  4. It's been a good while since I purchased anything and I believe I'm noticing some minor (and better) changes to some of the stainless steel listings. I'm specifically looking at Machine Cut Stainless Steel, 18g 1/4" and 7/32" (SS1814 & SS18732). The SS1814 is being listed with an AR of 5.5 and the SS18732 with an AR of 4.7, I know that in the past there was "spring back" on the Stainless which actually caused the rings to have a larger AR than rings of the 'same size' in another metal such as Anodized Aluminum; however, when this was the case the AR listed on each 1/4" and 7/32" Stainless didn't match the Anodized which they do now. Ultimately my question is -- Does SS1814 actually have an AR of 5.5 and will it match the exact (as possible) size of 18g 1/4" Anodized Aluminum?
  5. I'd be more than happy to help you out.
  6. I actually had avoided offering him mild steel because in general I try to avoid materials that rust easily because its generally a poor choice. But, in the end I directed him to some ex-ringlord employees for the project because they can offer it for a cheaper price. Handmade vs. machine made maille, handmade is almost always more expensive and the guy had a limited price range. I'm going to help him through the order process giving him any and all information he may need to stay a respectable sales associate.
  7. So last night I was hit up with my biggest custom order yet, a Chainmail Apron for Halloween Butcher Costume for a haunted 'house' employee. He didn't feel like getting an industry butcher apron and opted for a handmade one. My first question to you guys is what do you think is a good price for a 22" wide 36" long apron. I'll probably be using 14g 1/2" Galvanized rings, the second questions: do you think this will be too large of an inner diameter? I explained that the smaller the ID of the ring the more supplies and time it will take and the customer chose to use a larger ring but didn't actually pick the size himself. Thanks for any replies I get, Ryan M. Dingman
  8. If you're going to make one that looks more like a bullseye version of the discs, I would use glow in the dark EPDM rings mixed with Stainless Steep in 16g 5/16" or 1/4" rings using a coif pattern and inlaying the bullseye.
  9. Alright, so as per the topic of the post... Here's a Candle Holder that I'm asking $60 for It's in Stainless Steel and features a Dreamcatcher at the top so that the shadow puts off a beautiful design.
  10. So stainless steel pinshot will work with anodizing materials without nicking or dinging up the colors?
  11. 18g 1/4" rings will work to capture one ring, but its harder to start than a slightly largest size. I started with 16g 3/8" which captures two rings. Use cgmaille's tutorial and this tutorial for clasping it.
  12. Alright, so I'm looking into buying a tumbler for polishing and burnishing my jewelry but I have no idea what to get or just how to use them. I'm considering buying the one barrel Rotary Tumbler by Lortone from Blue Buddha, does anyone own one of these that can give me some feedback on it. I could also just use general information for tumbling - what materials should be tumbled, what media to use with certain materials, things I should avoid tumbling. I appreciate any responses and advice. -Ryan M. Dingman
  13. I use the Nickel Free Strong Hook Clasps from TRL. http://theringlord.com/cart/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=169&cat=Clasps&websess=48145580399374
  14. I currently downgraded ring sizes to 18g 1/4" to get something a bit smaller that works well for unisex pieces as Osiris mentioned. As for weave lists, I can make almost every single weave I want to in this size; a few exceptions are byzantine (its far too loose and looks much better in 3/16" or 5/32") and Japanese 12-in-2. With the edition of 5/32" rings it works well for making Dragonscale too.
  15. The idea I had in is a piece that will be shoulder-width, with straps that go over the shoulders and connect in front. So with this design, if the weight is an issue, I can attach anchor points at each shoulder. My biggest concern is whether or not the cloak will naturally want to cone. The small piece I made the other day cones, which I'm hoping is because it tapers to one point instead of being the same width across.