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About MakerEthos

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  • Birthday 06/18/1986

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  • Location
    Twin Cities, MN
  • Interests
    Video Game Design, Reading, Costuming, SF Writing, Dancing, Hiking, canoeing, camping, Snowmobiling, Snowboarding, Horticulture/Botany
  1. MakerEthos

    Displaying Armor

    Depending on the armor you are displaying, adding a second chain between the approximate hip and knee area can add further stability and prevent someone from potentially knocking the base out from underneath the stand (Think, sweep the leg, lol).
  2. MakerEthos

    Wire strengths for Japanese 6-in-1 design

    Thanks Movak!
  3. MakerEthos

    AA Scales colors

    Is there any way to get some more color variation in the AA scales? I'm looking to get a couple different tones of green or blue for a project.
  4. MakerEthos

    Wire strengths for Japanese 6-in-1 design

    Roger that. So basically I just need to figure out: 1) What my weave will be 2) what gauge I'm using for vertical and center rings 3) what ID I need the center rings to be to accommodate all the vertical rings, and what ID the vertical rings need to be to accommodate the center rings. yes?
  5. MakerEthos

    Wire strengths for Japanese 6-in-1 design

    I'm aware that AR and ring size are different and I know what AR is. I'm not planning on doing everything the same gauge, particularly if I'm doing a funky pattern or combining metals. For my design I need to figure out what pattern I'm doing, which would involve figuring out both AR and then Ringsize, no? Particularly if I'm doing something weird like 18 in 1. Though to be honest I doubt I would do much with the math of the AR and would probably just toodle around with rings until I get something that I like the look of and that fits. But thanks for the clarification and I'm sorry I wasn't more clear from the get-go. I should have said "weave" instead of "design". Whoops. Must remember not all words are as interchangeable as they are in my head. Lol.
  6. MakerEthos

    Scale Christmas Ornaments

    I think as long as you have the appropriate AR they would be fine! The ID of the small ring is 3/16" and the ID of the large ring is 5/16"... Small scale: Back ring AR - 5 Center Ring AR - 4.2 Spacer Rings AR - 5.4 For the large scales I would try... Back: 12g 1/2" ID (AR - 5.3) Center: 14g 3/8" ID (AR - 5) Spacer: 14g 7/16" ID (AR - 5.9) Granted this isn't a perfect formula, but if anyone has materials and has time to try, please do, cause I would love to see what it yields. M.E.
  7. MakerEthos

    Scale Christmas Ornaments

    These are happens when left-over supplies and homework-evasion collide at christmastime! These were made with the small AA scales; the rings between the petals are 16g galvanized 5/16" ID; The flower center is 16g Aluminum 1/4" ID, the back of the flower, and the hanger ring are 14g Stainless 3/8" ID. Nothing overly ambitious, but as my first project I did without a previous pattern, I figured I could toot my horn, however miniscule. Happy Christmas! M.E.
  8. MakerEthos

    Wire strengths for Japanese 6-in-1 design

    Thanks Movak! I need to figure out my ARs once I figure out my design. I was aware of the added weight, which is why I was concerned about the strength. It will be a crop top not a full length shirt so I'm not SUPER concerned about weight as I'm used to wearing a 3/4 sleeve hauberk out of galvanized steel when I've worn mail in the past. How would AA work in this function? I would miss the oxidization that copper and Bronze produce (Love me some patinas!) but I'm just trying to be realistic about my design. Thanks! M.E.
  9. SO I've been wanting to make a 6-in-1 costume top (Ie, just needs to take wear and tear abuse, not actual combat damage) and I'm deliberating about materials. I'd like to do it in copper or bronze or a combo of both. I could get really fancy and do an 18-in-1 design if I got my ARs right (But I don't think I'm there just yet...and not with these metals). But anyway, to save on money and physical stress I'm considering doing the rings that lay flat across the body in copper-clad aluminum. The smaller rings would then be either TRL's standard copper rings, or their bronze. Will the copper-clad aluminum be strong enough for this, or should I be using a straight copper or straight bronze ring? Thanks! M.E.
  10. MakerEthos

    Horde Symbol Inlay - image heavy

    Thanks! it's perfect!
  11. MakerEthos

    Horde Symbol Inlay - image heavy

    FOR THE HORDE! W00t! It looks marvelous, can't wait to see the finished product in action! Hey, as a mac user I don't have access to IGP, would you be willing to take a screen cap or save an image of the plain grid? I can import it into photoshop and just paint-bucket the colors. Thanks in advance! I only need about a 600 x 600 pixel image as I can patch it together from there.
  12. MakerEthos

    Displaying Armor

    The one friend I know who wears plate (the rest of us wear leather and mail) has 2 stands that he uses for armor, and he has 1 set mounted on the wall. The stands are 4x4 hardwood with 2 cross beams (2" dowels, hardwood) that go through the center of the 4x4 at the shoulder and hip level. He then puts it on like you would a person, sort of. He has a set of womans plate mounted on the wall. The breastplate, pauldrons, bracers, and greaves for sure. the back plate and a few other pieces are stored away. I should get pics the next time I'm there. As far as dress forms, most dress-forms that you see in stores are poorly made and I don't even like to work with them for sewing if I have to. I have an old steel wireframe dress form at my mothers that I bet would look great for displaying maille, as it it an anatomical form so would show off the flow of the maille. When sewing I prefer a stiff foam dress-form so I can stick my pins into it. It's light, but sturdy and mounted on a properly weight stand would be great for displaying armor... if it didn't currently have half a steampunk gown pinned to it. Lol. The stiff foam is also great because you can maille on the form. I've got a japanese 6-in-1 crop top I'm working on, I ran a length of 16g galvanized wire around the neck to create the neckline I wanted and then I weave down from there. It makes tailoring on the form a LOT easier. Foam form:
  13. MakerEthos

    Persian chainmaille choker/circlet/headdress

    I like the design of your head piece/choker, it's lovely. Rod already mentioned the twisting technique when closing rings. This makes life SO much easier and your closures will be that much cleaner. Keeping some sand paper around (grit depends on the metal you are working) can help clean up rough edges too. Experiment on a loose ring before you do it on your piece though. I would HIGHLY SUGGEST using ONLY saw-cut rings when working with jewelry and ESPECIALLY on anything that will be lying on hair. As someone with a a Metric-crap-Tonne of hair, I know how it can work it's way into the smallest little crack and then tie itself into a knot. This can be avoided by using saw-cut rings with nice tight closures. The extra investment is worth it. The persian thing you know about. I would maybe rephrase the design name so that it doesn't indicate "Persian" as that can make you look bad to someone who knows anything about different weaves, which can be a total buzzkil as an artist. Even something like "Desert Flower" give the feeling of the exotic, without being erroneous. One other thing that I think you might want to look at is adjusting the chains that hang down. Currently you have rings that are all the same size, yes? This might look really nice with either full spirals added or doing a japanese chain. Doing spirals that slowly decrease in size could be very pretty, and the japanese would make the chains lie more evenly and look cleaner and more finished. Also, the color of your gems and the wires you hung them from are LOVELY. You should bring those colors into your design more. It may seem like that would take away from the accents, but it can really make a design look cohesive and finished if you pull it together like that. Experiment and see what you think! What material is the wire that you used to hang the gems on? As far as cost, depending on your market Rod's formula is a good place to start, with a few tweaks. If you are trying to sell in an area where there are other mailler's around, I would start at $10.00/hour and instead of double cost of materials do just the cost or 1.5 times the cost. If you are selling in an area where this is new, and hard to come by, charge a little more on your hourly rate and do materials x2. This will allow you to get your moneys worth on time, which in turn will make you want to do a better job on your work, which will raise the quality of your work! WIN! The double cost ensures that you can expand your supplies and make more cooler stuff! Good job, and good luck! Can't wait to see what other pretties you make! M.E.
  14. MakerEthos

    Need experienced advice on a scalemail shirt

    I noticed that the sides of your shirt are even with the end of the shoulder seam. Are you planning on extending the sides at all? I would get your shoulder seams in place before you try to fit the sides or armholes. A very basic shirt pattern (when working with fabric at least) starts out here: I would imagine that Mail is similar. What this means is that if you don't add more width to the side (to create an arm-hole basically) you will have ill-fitting flaps of mail that hang from the shoulder down over the top of your arm. To create an armhole, figure out where you want the bottom edge to be (usually an inch or so below the pit of your arm) and measure around your body at that point. and also measure down from the shoulder seam. Also have someone help you measure the back half (from the center of your side around the back to the opposite side) and the front half because they may be different measurements). Then add scales to front and back accordingly, making sure to add the same amount to the right and left halves of each piece. You will end up a 90 degree corner. to round this out more you can add enough scales to the lower part of the angle to create a taper, how much and where will depend on your body. Make sure to leave enough ease for reaching forward and stretching back. If you want to do the shirt without any contractions or tailoring, You need to figure out where the fullest part of your torso is (typically the chest, but that can vary) and find out how far from your shoulder seam it is. If you already know this and I'm just stating what you already know, awesome, perhaps someone else in the forums here will find it useful later. Cheers! Good luck! M.E.