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About Gaanon

  • Rank
    Apprentice Member
  • Birthday 01/10/1972

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    San Diego
  • Interests
    Chainmaille (DUH?) Computers, SciFi.
  • Location
    San Diego
  • Interests
    Computers, Maille
  • Occupation
  1. Gaanon

    IS the customer always right?

    First problem is you ordered materials before understanding the customers needs. Now you're stuck eating the cost of those unused materials...at least until you find another project to apply them to. Personally, I don't like the way large scales look with the 5/16" split rings. (and it's been far too long since I looked to see if there were more sizes) I much prefer the tighter weave of a 16g 1/4" stainless butted ring. However, I caveat these few sales with the statement that these pieces are for show and NOT for combat. Combat voids all warranties. I will build to combat standards if they wish, however they should always seek guild/organization approval prior to actual use.
  2. Gaanon

    Chainmail for kids

    Partly depends on the age of the kids. The smaller the kid, the smaller the ring size to keep it all appropriate. I've got a brand new nephew I need to make a shirt for before he can crawl. I wouldn't dream of using larger than 16g 1/4". But for my older kids, I'd just go with a standard 14g 3/8" and when they outgrow it, just add more links. Somewhere in the middle, consider 16g 5/16". And until they're ready for the weight, stick with aluminum.
  3. Gaanon

    Most efficient ring size/ar for an inlay?

    When you're doing an inlay, AR isn't the only thing to consider. Size of the rings themselves are an important factor. Remember you're creating a pixelated image. The rings are your pixels. The larger the rings the larger the pixels. Also each pixel in your image is going to be one ring in IGP. The larger the image, the more pixels, the less pixelated it will be. If you are doing a small image, you may want to consider a tight AR and small rings. If I'm making a tapestry style inlay, the largest I would do is 16g 3/16"ID. Extremely tight AR and from a few feet it looks like an image. Want to have real fun? 20g 13/128". Now you're talking delicate. Best of luck to you!
  4. Gaanon

    Will they sell the directions?

    Whenever possible, try eyeballing it yourself. Making mistakes is the best way to learn. If nothing else...you learn what not to do.
  5. Gaanon

    Dragon and the newb

    By only charging for your time, you cut into your own income. Remember for each piece you make you will have to not only "pay the bills" for your time, but also replenish your supplies. So you should be accounting for both.
  6. Gaanon

    Dragon and the newb

    A good rule of thumb to use for pricing is M*2+L. Basically you double (or more) your material cost and add to it your labor cost. Remember, YOU are an ARTIST. Charge a fair price. Don't undersell yourself. What is your time worth to you? What makes the labor cost difficult is that we do multitask. We watch TV, listen to music, and do any number of other things while we're "working". Here's a simple way to break down the labor cost. Let's say $20/hr is a fair wage. An average mailler will weave 6 rings per minute. When you do the math, it boils down to a cost of $0.06 per ring. So, once you figure out what your material cost is, simply add another $0.06/ring to it and you're done. What is difficult to price is the wirework sculpture part. That I have no experience in, so I can't help you there. Beautiful work, and happy mailling.
  7. Gaanon

    Oh please tell me this will get easier

    Take care of your body, it's the only one you've got. You're world class weightlifters don't just decide to deadlift record weights one day because they think they can. They train for it and build up to it. It's no different here. You've got to build up muscle to accomplish a task that your body just wasn't ready for. Nothing wrong with that. You just have to give it time and take the small victories where they come. A few recommendations. Get yourself some gloves. Not what you would use for gardening, or keeping your hands warm on a cold day. Remember to use the right too for the job. Something with good padding and will keep the pliers from digging into the palms of your hands. Push yourself, but don't overdo it. You'll never know how far you can go unless you try and it won't get easier if you don't work hard. That doesn't mean you have to kill yourself trying though. Give yourself adequate time to heal. Athletes don't try and work the same area without giving it adequate time to heal, neither should you. You'll do more harm then good. And never underestimate the usefullness of a good stretch. Give your hands a break now and then and stretch them out. Try out different techniques. Personally I hold my pliers at about 4 and 7 o'clock with my elbows in to my body regardless of what metal I'm working with. Of course I also usually work with the piece held in my hands in the air, but that's me. I find that if I'm working on a flat surfase, my elbows are spread out from my body and I press the rings down towards the table for extra leverage. Soon enough you'll find yourself working with stainless like it was 20g silver. Just remember, if you even think you'll ever work with material like that again, you have to work with it periodically or else you will loose that strength. It will come back again, it just will take time. I don't think that ratio table was useless at all. It's a valid point to be able to use less energy and need less strength in your hands to hold the ring in closed pliers, while being able to redirect that energy and strength to the arms to open or close a ring. Gaanon
  8. WOW Go away for a while and look what happens to the board!

  9. Gaanon

    Just a little bit bummed

    That makes two of us. Gaanon
  10. Gaanon

    Just a little bit bummed

    Promotion results came out today. I got passed up again. It wouldn't bother me so much except for the fact that I'm now hitting high tenure and I'm being forced to retire. Part of the problem is with this economy...who knows what I'm in for. Another part is that I've been doing this for over 19 years now! After that much time, it's about all I know. On the positive side, I've got about a year to plan my retirement out. So hopefully everything will work itself out. Anyone know of any decent paying jobs in the San Diego area? Gaanon
  11. Gaanon

    Chainmail and Tasers

    You're right. Two years of specialised training and 14 years working as an Electronics Technician studying and working with Ohm's law means that someone of your caliber knows everything. Please take my knowledge and expereince and stuff them. Voltage is the FORCE to move current. All it's going to do is be abliltiy to move the current. It doesn't matter if it's 30 volts or 300,000 volts. At a 'normal' voltage, call it 30 volts, you're not going to feel anything at 5 miliamps. But raise it to 30miliamps and you're going to be feeling some pain. Raise that up to 100 miliamps and I don't care what the voltage is. Under the right circumstances, voltages as low as 28 volts are known to kill people. Now THAT is utter nonsense. A resistor resists voltage. Plain and simple. It has no impact on the current. Remember, you measure voltage in parallel to a circuit. Measure voltage on one side of a resistor and it will be higher then on the other side. You measure current (amps) in series with the circuit. Whether you stick the ammeter on either side of the resistor you will have the same amperage. Gaanon
  12. Gaanon

    Chainmail and Tasers

    True, and false. It does take miniscule ammounts of current to kill. Also called Amperage, or AMPS. Under good conditions as low as 28 volts of electricity will kill...if it's got the right amperage in there. How many amps do you ask? How about .1amp (or 100 miliamps) for a sure thing. If you just want to feel it, about .03amps (or 30 miliams) will have you dancing in pain. The thing is the voltage is not what kills. It does a hell of a job throwing you across the room though! BTW, ever wonder how much voltage is in a static electricity shock? Sometimes between 7,000 and 21,000 volts! Now once you get that high, what's a few extra thousand volts thrown in for good measure. Gaanon
  13. Gaanon

    Chainmail and Tasers

    No balls.
  14. Gaanon

    Modifying a belt. suggestions?

    I haven't seen a HP4 sheet. But you may want to look at HP3Sheet5 or HP3Sheet6. You can find tuts for both at www.cgmaille.com. Gaanon
  15. Gaanon

    Chainmail and Tasers

    Considering the options...tasered, bean bag, or bullets, I think I'd rather get the taser. Of course you have to clean up the mess in your shorts afterwards...but it's better then having ANOTHER discussion on maille being bullet proof! OH yeah, let's not forget OC spray, and maille's NOT going to protect from that either! Gaanon