liriel

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About liriel

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  1. As you say, the main stress on a vest used in LARP is its own weight. With that in mind, do you really want to use steel scales? They are very heavy (putting stress in the rings... and on your body), and they are likely to rust. My favorite combination for very durable LARP armor is aluminum scales with stainless steel butted rings (using the standard weave for scales). The rings are fairly heavy, but the lighter scales mean that vest will be 15 pounds instead of 50 pounds... and it will be much more durable for larping.
  2. Silver is rather heavy and soft, so I'm not sure rings of that metal would hold under the kind of pressure the top of the tie would be submitted to. Using anodized aluminum in silver and whatever other colour you want would probably be a simpler way to go. And cleaning mixed metals might indeed be an issue. I'd try electrolytic cleaning, but I'm not sure how it might affect the anodized aluminum (the ends of the rings are not anodized). Titanium or niobium might be an option?
  3. According to what Bernice posted on the Facebook page, the tariffs are only on steel and aluminium wire, no rings should be affected. UPS does seem to like to invent fees whenever they feel like it though...
  4. I've seen hauberks made with 1/2" 12g (aluminum though, not titanium), and it really doesn't look bad at all, especially if it is a large hauberk. Not very historical looking, but you may find interested people in your local fantasy LARP groups. (I don't think there are any new tariffs on titanium rings?)
  5. The "ordinary" gold mirror scales are really quite shiny! Blindingly so if you wear your armor in the sun. I've used a mix of brushed gold and mirror gold for my own armor shirt.
  6. They are pretty fragile, much more so than the clear or black polycarbonate. Not sure if it is a different polymer or if the glow in the dark pigment interferes with bonds in the polymer. I find they are ok for "regular" scale weaving, but not for the more sculpture like use (flowers, butterflies) that put a strain on the scales.
  7. You say you'll be wearing the shirt for hikes. I really don't think that welding 14 gauge wire is necessary for such use. It would hold up fine as just butted rings, even if it was 4 in 1 rather than 6 in 1. Also, galvanized steel can take a bit of rain (and sweat) without rusting, which would be a good thing when hiking. If you remove the zinc coating and then go hiking in the rain, you may end up with a rusty shirt very quick... unless you constantly oil it, which is rather messy...
  8. As only the top row of rings is visible, using stainless rings of the same size instead would not be visible but would be much stronger without having to double the rings.
  9. Here is the way I have attached scales to leather : I attached the scales together in the usual way with butted rings, to form a sheet slightly smaller than the piece of leather, then I punched holes (slightly larger than the wire of the rings) along the edge of the leather, and wove rings through the leather along the edges. I don't have a picture right now but could take one if you want...
  10. I suggest looking at the project specific kits (http://theringlord.com/cart/shopdisplaycategories.asp?id=10&cat=Projects+%26+Kits) if you want to be sure to have the correct rings to make something. Plus they come with instructions and are a good way to learn new weaves you may not have tried yet. You could get several for 50$. Byzantine kits, Keychain kits, Wrapped tags kits... Saw cut anodized aluminum is great for your first tries at jewelry, it is easy to work with and comes in many colours.
  11. I would suggest that, if you really want to wear a hundred pounds of chainmail in shirt form, the best way to do that without resorting to ridiculously stiff weaves or lead wire would be to simply wear two shirts one on top of the other. And after you are done with your training, you would have two (more wearable) shirts. Tightest weave I've used for a steel shirt was 14 ga 5/16". Even short and without sleeves (weave seemed too stiff for sleeves) it was nearly 40 pounds. I've done some smaller pieces in brass rings of that same size. They are heavier than steel, so I'm sure it would be pretty easy for a brass shirt to weigh 60 pounds.
  12. I have done several bracelets (euro 4 in 1) in anodized aluminum 20ga 1/8" ID rings. It looks very delicate, but I was happily surprised at how resistant they have been. I wanted to test them, so I wore them for weeks, including fishing, hunting and canoe-camping trips. There is no visible damage on them despite lots of exposure to water, sun, dirt, sunscreen, DEET... For rings smaller than that, I would probably choose titanium. Light and strong.
  13. I think the best way to do this is to figure out the total area of those sleeves. Approximate maths : 2 x sleeve radius x 3.14 x sleeve length. Be sure your result is in square feet, then you can easily compare with the number of rings/square foot given in the description of each ring size to see how many you need (for example, for 16ga 5/16", you need about 1824 rings/square foot).
  14. Here is the chemical engineering answer... Plating is a very thin layer of metal. Usually applied by an electrochemical process. So silver plated iron rings would have a very thin layer of silver on them. Making them look exactly like silver (as long as the layer is not worn through). Enamel is a layer of powdered glass and pigments melted on the metal.
  15. The black you are seeing on your clothes worn underneath (and on your hands when building it) is from the bright aluminum rings, as those are not anodized and will oxidize a bit, and from the edges of the scales, which are not anodized, then the oxide rubs off easily on clothes... (which keeps the metal bright). Should not harm the scale armor in any way. I'd simply suggest wearing black clothes under it.