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liriel

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About liriel

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  1. liriel

    Brass rings or suitable alternative

    If you don't like the colour of the gold saw cut anodized aluminum you taken a look at the yellow saw cut anodized aluminum? It seems more similar to brass colour.
  2. liriel

    Adding/Uniting Scale Mail and Chain Mail

    I'll guess your chainmail bag is a classic 4 in 1 pattern? If you make a strip of scale mail in the usual pattern with the rings you bought, and add a row or two of those small rings to do a transition from scale mail to 4 in 1 chain mail, it should not be too difficult to attach that chainmail to the top of your chainmail bag. The exact connection will depend on the size of the rings of course. For example, maybe you'll need to do a row of "5 in 1", with one row of rings each going through 3 small rings and 2 large rings.
  3. liriel

    Making electrical wire non-tarnishing

    Not wearing the copper directly on skin might really be the only way. How big is the wire? What are you planning to do with it? If you are thinking armor rather than jewellry, then it should be fine if you wear clothes under the armor (as one should). Just keep in mind that copper is rather heavy and soft. Most people use it for trim only on armor. Making the whole piece with it is unusual and not very practical. Things like keychains or decorating pieces (wall hangings, lampshades, etc) would also be fine, as they are not much in contact with skin.
  4. liriel

    New User Thread

    From an intellectual property point of view, the instructions are copyrighted, so you shouldn't resell those, of course. But a copyright does not extend to what you built following the instructions. (Analogy : Ikea does not own my kitchen table, even if I built it following their instructions 😉 ) That thing is yours. Ethically, you should not say you designed it. But you can certainly say you made it (it's true), and I see no reason why you could not sell it.
  5. liriel

    First inlay commission--need advice

    Assuming you mean the round one with a star (there's a few designs), it is pretty simple on the detail side, so you can use fairly large rings. The difficulty will be making it perfectly circular and making a perfect 5 pointed star in the middle. A symetrical weave (like Japanese weaves) might make that easier. Making 5 wedges of Euro 4 in 1 with the correct angle to be joined flat seems difficult. And the inlay programs I've seen usually assume you are weaving the entire drawing in one flat sheet, so they are unlikely to be very helpful for that plan.
  6. liriel

    First inlay commission--need advice

    Hard to give you advice as there is some key information missing... what is the inlay supposed to be? The level of detail of the image you want to reproduce will be an important factor to consider when choosing ring size. Also, what weave? Euro 4 in 1?
  7. liriel

    Making armour from steel washers?

    Of course, if the main reason why you want to build this is to defend against knife attacks, I feel the need to mention that aikido has many techniques for knife defense. And of all those thechniques, this is widely recognized as the best one : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xt9AkDyodMc so, make sure your armor is light, and start training 😉
  8. liriel

    Making armour from steel washers?

    Well, I've never made washer armour myself, but I have seen a few shirts other people had made for larping, and I don't think it is much faster to make than chainmail. It is usually heavier and less flexible though, and flexibility is important if you want something around your neck and arms... Though, really, if you want something stab proof, you probably have to start with welded chainmail fabric, what they use for shark diving suits or butcher protection equipment.
  9. liriel

    Getting back into it, a few questions about scales.

    If you are using aluminum scales, the stainless steel butted rings are strong enough in the regular pattern, the "extra" rings are only important on the edges, to stabilize them. I've never used the split rings myself.
  10. liriel

    Getting back into it, a few questions about scales.

    Hi, 1) As a pattern for my scale shirts, I used this link I found in an old forum post here : https://sites.google.com/site/thehappybarbarianhordelands/scale-tutorial 2) You can also make long chains of 1 scale - 1 ring - 1 scale - 1 ring - 1 scale for each row you want to add, then attach them to the bottom of the main piece. I'm not sure it is much faster, but it helps when the shirt is starting to be heavy to manipulate. And the long chains require less attention. 3) I don't find they scratch that easily, even the mirror ones, and if the shirt is going to be used for larping, I would not worry too much about a few small scratches. But a towel or tablecloth is good to avoid the shirt sliding around too much while you are working on it. 4) I've tried a few things, but I prefer to store and carry around my shirts in those heavy-duty reusable grocery bags. They make some nice ones now with various themes, that could be a good gift wrapping and useful for a long time.
  11. I think any chainmail inlay is already pretty close to pointilism. If you really want to have a look that is closer to round dots, I'd suggest using a japanese 4 in 1 or 6 in 1 weave, with the "center" rings being your coulourful dots and the "linking" rings being a uniform background colour, maybe black.
  12. liriel

    tiny inlay

    The larger one is 16ga 1/4", the smaller one is 20ga 1/8".
  13. liriel

    tiny inlay

    I've actually made the same inlay in those two ring sizes. It does give a similar look. I like the knipex watchmakers narrow nose pliers for small rings.
  14. liriel

    Do I have to use 16ga 5/16" for large scales?

    You only need the exact ring size to do the "regular" scale pattern. Scales can be attached with all kinds of ring sizes. If your 18ga 1/4" is aluminum , it might be too flimsy to hold well with the weight of the scales though. You may want to double or triple your rings.
  15. liriel

    Color pattern help needed

    If I was adding lettering to a dice bag, I would do the letters in an rectangular strip, with no expansions and contractions, then close the strip on itself to form a cylinder, and add the top and bottom of the bag (maybe in the same colour as the letters). Top can be straight (drawstring bags open better with no contractions at the top, bottom can be rapidly contracting or an actual flat circle.
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