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Everything posted by Milquetoast

  1. Milquetoast

    Bristol Ren Faire, anyone?

    Does anyone else here go to the Bristol Renaisance Faire in Wisconsin? Today was opening day, and I plan on going at least another time or two this season, and was just wondering if there were any other maillers on here who go as well.
  2. Milquetoast

    Airsoft Armor Chainmail Hood/Coif

    Lorenzo is right on both accounts; you don't need a full arming cap or anything terribly thick, a balaclava would work fine, just so the maille isn't directly against the skin, and their welded maille would be your best bet for safety. But I have to voice concern over your game: please correct me if I'm wrong, but it's sounding like you're wanting to do a backyard sort of game with some friends, which if you've browsed airsoft forums I'm sure you've seen advised against. It's too easy for a neighbor or passerby to see you and call the police which is a hassle even if you're legally fine to be playing, or to get a bad article written in the paper (because airsoft is definitely weird to most outsiders), or the most important factor, it's very easy for someone to get injured because oftentimes backyard games don't have the same safety regulations as established groups/fields. I would definitely recommend that you spend some time with a local group and do a few real events to learn what the common rules are and why they're in place, if for no other reason than to make your own better.
  3. Milquetoast

    Airsoft Armor Chainmail Hood/Coif

    I stopped airsofting 4 or 5 years ago, but I wore my maille once, so I can give you a little bit of insight. A few questions first, since I did field, not CQB: I'd always seemed to hear that the FPS limit was 350 with 0.2g BBs, is this true for where you play? Do head shots count as hits where you play; that is to say, how likely are you to get shot in the head and/or face? I know that at my field we didn't count hits to the head just to discourage people from unloading on peoples' faces and risking chipped teeth, bruised ears and damaging some of the thinner skin, but I don't think that it's a common rule. One thing to remember is that once the BBs start to lose velocity, they lose it fast: that's why even relatively thin clothing is fairly effective at preventing the BBs from stinging if they're loose and away from the body: tight clothes will just transfer the force of the BB straight through, while loose clothing makes it necessary for the BB to pull the fabric with it to get to your body, which sucks up a lot of its power. Maille is the same way: a weave that's sitting straight against your noggin will transfer most of the force through, while if if has to move the maille a distance, that will use a tremendous amount of its velocity, so you'll want some way to keep it away from your head (such as a cap of some sort).
  4. Milquetoast

    Brass, Bronze and Copper discoloration to the skin

    I turn bronze into a nice deep brownish-orange within a few days, sometimes even just a few hours if I'm sweating, but I have 0 problems with ever getting the green rub-off. It's really something that varies person to person: I personally love using both bronze and brass, I love the rich, deep look that they get when they've tarnished: I just make sure that before I make a piece for someone they know about the possibility of greening.
  5. Milquetoast

    Shipping to New York (USA) other fees

    I've had rings sent to Illinois, Florida, and Michigan without ever being charged any extra fees.
  6. Milquetoast

    Bracelet sizes

    18g 5/32" is my favourite Byzantine size, or anything around a 3.5 AR: much bigger than that and it gets pretty loose and floppy until about AR 4.2 when you can stick a third ring in the little "boxes." CGMaille-- http://cgmaille.com/tutorials.shtml --is always the site I recommend for beginners to jewellery: it's got info on enough weaves to keep you busy for quite a while, and some of the best, most clear tutorials I've seen.
  7. Milquetoast

    Need help identifying rings

    What's it from, by the way? I thought I'd seen just about every Medieval fantasy film out there, but I don't recognize this piece wherever it's from.
  8. Milquetoast

    Need help identifying rings

    16g 5/16". The wire's definitely not thicker than that, and if the ring ID was any larger the weave would be much more loose and open.
  9. Milquetoast

    The dragon scale tie.

    I don't have the appropriate rings to check, but depending on how obvious it is, inserting an expansion in the middle of the tie where you want it to expand could work and keep the edges even. http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/articledisplay.php?key=495
  10. Milquetoast

    elbow and knee cops

    The Armour Archive is the place to go for all things SCA: if you check over in their Classifieds section basic knees and elbows can usually be found for pretty darn cheap. And if you really want to have a go at making them yourself rather than buying, they've got a lot more smiths over there than on this forum that could give you direction.
  11. Milquetoast

    Scalemail size

    They're definitely not TRL scales so you won't get the same flat, angular look, but size-wise they look to be roughly near to the large scales. I've been planning a scale Kingsguard hauberk like they're described in the books, this reminds me that I should start that soon...
  12. Milquetoast

    Sca chainmail materials

    If you can get all of your rigid armour requirements taken care of elsewise, 16g 1/4" and 14g 3/8" are good SCA sizes: they'll hold up reasonably well for being butted (but will require regular repair), without getting into the realm of extraordinarily heavy
  13. Milquetoast

    dice bag name inlay

    How big will it be? My own personal dice bag is 18g 3/16" and holds two sets of D&D dice (as many as I ever bring to a session), but some people like theirs to hold all of their dice at once, which for some people is 50 dice, then 16g 5/16" would work alright. It's a matter of scale: making a small bag out of large rings will end up seeming very loose and floppy and coarse, while if the bag is large then larger rings work okay.
  14. Milquetoast

    CGMaille.com Wrong Rings

    What weave?
  15. Milquetoast

    New To Scales. Suggestions?

    My scale shirt used 14g 5/16" steel up near the top (over the shoulders down to about armpit level) and 16g for the rest. I'm not sure just how necessary it is for the costume wear I use it for, but I've never had to make any repairs so I guess it doesn't hurt.
  16. Milquetoast

    Costume Chainmail Top

    If it's her first ever maille piece, she is going to burn herself out *so* quickly on rings that small. They're smaller than you might think, especially when you're weaving tens of thousands of them. As far as durability goes they might hold up for costume use (but I'm not even going to say probably because they'd be iffy. I personally wouldn't trust them), but if they get caught on something or she puts it on wrong she'll start losing rings. What I would suggest is that she start out making something like a pouch, coif, or just a large patch out of 18g 3/16" rings: even for experienced maillers that can be a pretty small size to do a full shirt in, but it'll hold up better, and over the course of a shirt you could drop from it taking 75,000 rings to 50,000 because each ring is barely larger, but over the many thousands of rings she'd save herself much headache.
  17. Milquetoast

    soldier guys

    Yeah, proper rivets oftentimes aren't all that necessary: there are all sorts of pins, nails, and tacks that can accomplish the same thing. You may need to clip them to length or soften them, and the peening surface sometimes isn't as large as most purpose-made rivets, but they can absolutely work.
  18. Milquetoast

    Expanding a 4-1 weave while maintaining the look?

    Pretty much what you want to do is make it like a regular coif, but without that section down the front beneath the chin.You want a 3/4 circle (rather than 1/2) so that is hangs down over the front of the shoulders to help it stay in place. You can either take apart the whole mantle part and redo it with randomly spaced expansions for a nice even circle, or insert a few (2 would probably work) 45 degree triangle expansions.
  19. Milquetoast

    Sweets anyone?

    I also make a dairy-based pie (it's a shame they aren't more popular), but it's sour cream to fill a pie crust up ~halfway (I've made it so much that I can just eyeball it by now, but I think it's a cup), two eggs, three tablespoons of vinegar, a bit of baking powder, some sugar (a cup or so, maybe a little less), and throw in mace/nutmeg, cloves, and cinnamon to your heart's content. Mix it well and bake at 350 for about 45 minutes, until it browns and starts to harden/get spongy. Everyone is hesitant when I tell them it's a sour cream pie, but I've never had anyone tell me they didn't like it after trying it.
  20. Milquetoast

    Shirt fasteners...

    If it's not for something like SCA or Western European historical recreation, he's perfectly fine using some sort of closure. Both hook closures and leather straps to close mail were not uncommon in the Arab world, so even though that's not the style he's going for they're still perfectly viable options. LARPs don't use hard sticks like the SCA so there's not the same worry of a rigid metal fastener being hit and bruising, and assuming he's not recreating a particular time or place, they can be practical... How I did so wish for a shirt that could quickly be taken on and off the couple of times that I wore my maille in Florida...
  21. Milquetoast

    Shirt fasteners...

    By non leather does that mean nothing that uses leather at all, or just not simple leather thongs? Straps and buckles can be a pretty awesome look (as in the next two pictures) http://www.flickr.com/photos/98015679@N04/9185576553/in/set-72157634435687078/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/98015679@N04/9185578633/in/set-72157634435687078/lightbox/ Otherwise you could use simple hooks, or a fancier type made for fabric like https://d2d00szk9na1qq.cloudfront.net/Product/343556cc-340c-4354-a876-c1b97ad26d6e/Images/Large_JHB-171.jpg for an end result like http://www.flickr.com/photos/98015679@N04/9150992254/in/set-72157634356388336/lightbox/
  22. Milquetoast

    Shirt sizing

    You always want to make a shirt several inches larger than your measurements. That way it will pull open when you put it on (and have enough room to make it over the larger areas), but hang closed when worn, and be able to twist and move well in it.. I have a 36" chest and 29" waist, so I make my shirts to a 45" chest and 40" waist, to accommodate for my gambeson plus several inches of stretch. Since the waist measurement is still larger than my chest (with gambeson) I have no problem pulling it on, but it's still tailored and fits my body. As far as just making it all to the largest size... It's not really a problem, as that's how most shirts seem to be made because it's faster, doesn't require a skilled mailler, and is therefore cheaper: but it tends to not really look as good. Especially if you kind of lift it up before putting on the belt to help take weight off the shoulders, untailored shirts tend to get these big loose belly flaps. But to most people chainmail is chainmail, it will be mostly maillers who notice much of a difference between a tailored and untailored shirt.
  23. Milquetoast

    Kingdom of Heaven

    I've not seen the film, but watching clips on Youtube and looking at pictures the Crusader armour actually looks surprisingly historical for a big film. It's got the big ol' hauberks from the golden age of mail: knee-length with integrated coif (some even have ventails!) and closed-hanging sleeves, and nasal helms seem to be all over with the occasional early pothelm thrown in... I'm actually going to try to find this, now.
  24. Milquetoast

    Does anyone make self riveting rings?

    I have a little tube and cylinder that I use: overlap the ring, drop it in the tube (just barely bigger than the ring to prohibit skipping), hit the cylinder with a hammer. Well, for flattened rings, at least: if I'm wanting to keep the wire round or mostly round I'll do the straight hammer tapping... I like the look more, but must say that it takes a little longer: not that an extra few seconds per ring matters much when you look at the grand scheme of riveted maille from scratch. The Burgess model is just the closest thing to what seniorElMeowMeow was describing that I've seen (I've never used it myself), so I offered an answer.