j_betts

There is no 3 rings way to weave it that I know about. What I'm talking about is the fact that you have 2 sets of rings in the box, and another in the connector. When you weave byz with a closed and an open set like you are talking about you either have a set of open rings without closed rings, or you need to thread the final ring into the box. I've had nothing but trouble threading the final ring, and I dislike just putting on the open rings.

I was thinking the same thing. I've done dice bags that were square bags. I just stitched the sides together, and except for the final corner ring it looked great. If you want defined sides you could stitch your sides together with HP 3in1. You may have trouble at the corners, but I've not tried anything like this, so I can't say.

Personally I don't like Byzantine due to the fact that it throws off my weaving groove. Byzantine wants 3 rings per unit, and my normal way of weaving adds 2 sets of rings per open ring (one set open, one set closed). It just messes with me. I also don't like inverted round. I really like captured inverted round though.

How big of a contraction do you need? Can you cheat it by using smaller rings for the wrist end and have the difference in size make the contraction for you? Not exactly what you were asking for, but it is the only solution that I could come up with that would be obvious.

I think the nails are connected via the finger tip bands. One has slipped off her finger in the picture that I can see. Bad photo set up, not bad connection. Pace diamond is a type-o. I found it as pave white diamonds in other places. Pave diamonds is when you cover a surface with the gem. Just like a road being paved.

If the rings have bad edges then there isn't much you can do. I stopped making my own rings for just this reason. If you push the ring edges together a bit when closing the ring, and it will find the best closure sort of on its own. Don't press too much, or you will not be able to close the ring. The pictures you took are a little blurry, so point to point closes look like gaps. If they actually touch I'm sorry I've pointed out something that isn't there. I've seen a number of first time mailers that barely get the rings closed, and move on to the next one. A properly closed ring is the biggest improvement that many first time mailers can do. Armor can be a bit more lax, but on jewelery it is very important.

You have the basics down, but you need practice your closures. I can see some gaps on the rings, and that is the number one thing that will increase your quality.

Lining the pouch will help out as there is less interaction between the rings and the pack. If the pack is worth that much you might want to test an empty pack. I've never seen a smoker that won't hand you a dead pack.

I'm thinking of a pouch made by building up a belt of mail, folding it in half, and knitting the two sides together. You get a simple square pouch that would hold the pack and a lighter well. I'd make a belt loop on the pouch to connect it to the person's waist. Using drawstrings that are large enough to pass the pouch through would also work. Put the strings through a belt, or belt loop, then run the pouch through the strings and let gravity do the rest. As for roughing up the pack. I have no idea. Perhaps you should make one of a weave you like and give it to one of your smoker friends to test. Worst thing is you end up buying the person a new pack of smokes. I'd weave the pouch like shirt, so that the stretch is to the sides, not up and down. It is called the "right way" for a shirt. Then you have the pack going in/out of the pouch on the rolling edge of the rings instead of catching between rows.

I'll put in a big vote for Youtube, or any other video website. I had a terrible time figuring out HP 4in1 till I searched for it on youtube. 20 minutes after watching a pair of videos I had a bracelet's worth of the weave in hand. Sometimes seeing it come together right in front of you is the best way to figure something out.

If you like doing bags have you thought about cigarette pouches? Keeping the pack "protected" in armor may get you a different set of customers. Wallet chains and jacket chains will also work for breaking out of the geek culture market. Both of those work just fine in Aluminum as too heavy of a chain may become annoying to the wearer.

Took me a moment to find the scales due to how well they are integrated into the piece. They really look like they belong there. Very nice.

I just moved and found a ring in the elevator after we finished. The rings like that one were in a plastic sorting box that was packed in a taped up cardboard box. The ring must have belonged to Harry Houdini or something to make it out of that. Finding it gave my wife and I a needed laugh after the move.

YMBAMI You have ever lost a pair of pliers that were being held in your off hand. I have twice been looking around for a pair of pliers that I found were in my left hand. They sit there so comfortably that I had no idea there were in my hand at all.

That should work with no real problems. If you are covering the entire piece of clothing you are going to lose a bunch of stretch because the scales will each hold a piece of the cloth so that it can't stretch. It would be like having large beads on a stretchy beaded fabric. parts won't move because the thread holding the bead stops the fabric from giving.

Do you have a tumbler? If so put them in with water and some dawn and let it go for a bit. I'd also think that doing the same idea of gentle soap and a bunch of water would work if you put the scales into a bucket. Swirl the scales around a bit and they should do all the work for you. If you are working with a non-stainless steel I'd get them dry quickly though. Rust is not your friend, unless you like that sort of thing.

Scales naturally curve, so you may be in luck there. If you are looking to use rubber rings to take up "slack" and keep the finished piece to the body I'd double up the rubber ring with the scales, That way the metal rings have some pull to keep them closer than the scales normally hang. The other way to do this is to make a split in the garment and lace the person into it.

While looking for a blog on chainmail I found a link to the official google blog talking about chainmail. One of their data center techs made an inlay of the Google logo for their office. The link for the full article is located here. He also gives the size of the banner, the number of rings, and the size of rings he used.

Got to agree with the Paladin. E6in1 is much heavier, and a lot less flexible than 4in1. The trick is that you can, especially with costume armor get away with larger links with 6in1. Going a size or two up will still give you the pattern you want, but shed some weight, and give you some flexibility back. Larger aspect ratio rings will move more easily due to there being more room inside the ring for them to move about. Another idea is to use your 6in1 as trim, and for reinforcing areas that will take a beating. You can easily connect the two patterns together. There will obviously be a contraction at the seam, but there won't be holes, or awkward connections between the two.

For tests on sizes I use aluminum. It may not be the exact same size due to differences in spring back, but it will be close. I wouldn't buy sterling till I knew down to the ring how much I needed, but I'm cheap like that. As for sizes I'd look to aspect ratio instead of trying to give you exact sizes. For HP4 go with a AR of about 5 and an AR of about 6 for the full Persian. I've been working with HP4 recently and the rings I have are AR of 5-5.1. They make a tight weave that bends beautifully. It is in 18 ga or I'd tell you the size. Don't worry about getting flamed. You came in with a specific idea, and wanted pointers to make that idea happen. We usually only get snappy at people that want to use us as a human search engine.

The edging I added last night really helped out. Now all I need to do is work out how I put a hole into the weave of scales, and to fix it. You would think that in a weave where you never connect two rings together it would be easy to notice a problem,but no. I had what looks like E 4in1 starting to form in one spot. I'll rip it apart and try again. Thank you to everyone that helped me out.

I've been trying to build a bracelet out of small scales but the rows constantly get jumbled. I have 4 rows of scales done, and row 4 seems to want to slide over row 3 and makes the thing into a mess. Would having more rows stabilize this? I'd like to make it into a bracelet instead of a full bracer, so if anyone knows a way to keep it the width I currently have I'd love to hear it.