Jump to content

j_betts

Members
  • Content Count

    347
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

Posts posted by j_betts


  1. I picked up some 20 ga 3/32 black ice rings to make a JPL3 necklace, and I found that the AR on it was too big.  TRL lists the AR on the rings as 3, so I thought they would work pretty well.  The rings were way too loose, and were slipping out of location a lot.  I knew that AA wire was a bit thinner, but that was huge.

     

    Has anyone made JPL3 out of these rings?


  2. Unfortunately, I can't do that - she's a vet tech and can't wear bracelets to work. Besides, I have serious concerns about the safety of something like that, if it were to catch in something and she breaks her wrist or something like that.

     

    Then do a anklet, or finger ring, and have her wear it during her time off work.  For the safety factor have the single ring be a 20 ga or so ring that will break before your body will is also an option.  Cordmail like Blind maile would also work.  

     

    Heck, have her tape a set of rings to her skin over night with medical tape and see if any cause a problem.  If she has any problems with the metal it will show up in a couple hours. If it takes longer than that tell her not to wear the piece to bed and it won't cause problems.


  3. If this is a test thing then don't use clasps and just connect the bracelet around her wrist for a day or two.  If you are worried about a serious reaction make the weave with a point that has a single ring she can cut quickly to remove the bracelet.


  4. If you are going for low weight I'd suggest welded stainless steel.  The premade mail cloth sold by The Ring Lord is between .5 and .75 pounds per square foot.  The heavier one is what shark suits are made from, so strength isn't an issue.  

     

    Aluminum as a material is lighter, but to get the level of strength needed for these projects I think it would be heavier due to amount of extra metal you would need.  

     

    For a chainmail patterns you would be dealing with european 4 in 1 fro the premade cloth.  To stitch it together either continue with euro 4 in 1, or try Half Persian 3 in 1.  E 4in1 will give you a smooth unbroken join, while HP 3in1 will give you a strong edge.  

     

    For the project pattern, I'd try building it out of paper first or buying a premade pattern.  


  5. What a pity men don't usually seem to have the "impervious to attack" zones like women's midriffs!  :ice:

     

    Men do get this impervious zone, but they need to be in a different genre.  See Conan for an example of impervious male tummy.


  6. The stuff is pretty, but I can see a number of gaps in your closures.  If you are going to attach it to cloth, then those gaps will start tearing holes into your fabric.  

     

    Note that stainless won't rust, but the coating on blackened stainless will.  You will need to keep it oiled, or it may rust.


  7. Salt and acid for the tarnishing? Ah. I was dealing with second-hand information from one of the threads a couple weeks ago. 

     

    If you meant for the polishing, you don't need salt at all.  I've done it many a time with my copper chains.  Just swish it around in lemon juice for maybe 30 seconds to a minute and then wash it with soap and water. 

     

    Here is an article explaining what is happening with shining copper.  http://www.cruftbox.com/cruft/docs/cleaningcopper.html  Salt greatly increases the ability of the acid to clean the metal.  


  8. Also, seems like nobody mentioned that for copper alloys (bronze, brass, etc) you can shine them right up with lemon juice or other weak acids (some people even use ketchup).  Just make sure that you wash it off afterward and don't let it sit in there for too long.  We established in a thread not long ago that if you leave brass in for too long it will actually tarnish. :P

     

    You actually need salt and acid to get this to work.  I've read the chemistry around this, but I don't remember what it is right now.   It only takes a couple seconds to a minute to get the effect.  If you want to test it use an old penny.  


  9. Without putting a layer of something between scales and the coat you are going to scratch the leather of the coat.  The ends are usually way too sharp not to.  Chainmail could be done, but you would need to make very good closures.  Even perfect bolt cutter rings may still scratch the leather.  I'd go with saw cut rings for this one.


  10. Excuse my ignorance, what keeps the bead from coming loose before you want it to?

    Friction keeps it from falling off. You use a cord that just barely goes through the bead, and everything stays in place. Using something like leather cords makes this pretty easy.


  11. lol i know.. but they worked!

    and as for the BA... that's the reason I don't make jewelry out of it.. other people are bound to have the same chemistry and I don't want or need any complaints about my jewelry not being wearable! So it's a good thing TRL has the bright silver AA :) A little more expensive but I won't get any complaints about it.

    I've had the black rub off you are talking about on my hands when working with aluminum, but I've never seen it from wearing jewelry made from the stuff. My wife has a rather acidic skin chemistry, and she has never complained about anything like the rub off I get when working aluminum either. I think you might be worrying a bit too much.


  12. I'd bring an attention getting piece or two. A huge ornate necklace, sculpture, or armor work for this. That piece isn't supposed to sell, but instead get people to say "what is that?!?" and get them into your booth. I've heard a lot of people get a lot of sales after people are drawn in by a huge piece.

    I'd also suggest you bring your supplies to not only lengthen/shorten pieces, but to weave when people don't need you. It fills your dead time, and will get people to come by to watch. While they are watching you can banter a bit, and hopefully get an extra sale or two.


  13. T

    To add: You can actually make the bottom wider than one ring as well by adding a row on each side and then stitching them up. The thing to remember about that is that you need some rings to plug the holes at the corners.

    Getting those corners right is the hardest part of this style of bag. I've made several, but I don't think I was ever happy with the corners. It was the reason I switched to making coif style bags.


  14. I've made a tank top out of the 16 SWG 5/16" rings for my wife. It came together really quick. Most of the time I spent on it was working out how to do the cups, and connecting the mail under the cups together. We cheated by not joining the front to the back except via the shoulder straps. The sides are held together with laces.

    I know that TRL made a shirt like this for In the Name of the King. It was worn by Matthew Lillard in the movie.


  15. I myself haven't been doing mail that long but it looks like the last ring on the bracelet isn't completely flush, being at the end it may snag a shirt sleeve a bit

    A couple of the closures aren't the greatest, but that is something that most new mailers (people that make chainmail) have trouble with. I didn't bring it up because I didn't want to sound like a broken record. We have had a couple of new people show off their work recently, and I've commented about the same problem.


  16. while I can see the draw of almost unlimited finishes and colors for armor that is light weight and strong,

    I did the math to make a shirt of these, and 16 ga 5/16" BA is actually lighter. A shirt of them for a six foot about 200 pound man (meaning me) works out to about 8 lbs of plastic, or about 5-6 of aluminum. Add in the price, and I won't be making a shirt out of them, but perhaps something else.

×