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The_other_jeremy

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  1. The_other_jeremy

    Scalemail Advice Needed

    Man I forgot to check this post. I might end up building my own at some point, but i'm a mostly broke college student so worst come to worst I can try and sell some of my works and hope for $200. I think this vest might end up being both a lesson and practice for a titanium vest later on.
  2. The_other_jeremy

    Scalemail Advice Needed

    Liriel and Rob, I had at the start of this vest considered using aluminum scales, but I ended up going with steel because I kinda liked the idea of at least somewhat effective armor (even if the rings are butted). I was thinking for weight reduction to make the scales stop short and use aluminum rings to make the last 2 or so inches of mail. I think my next vest will follow your plan of aluminum scales though. As for the welder, damn, are there any other resistance welders out there of similar quality or will I just have to invest in a spot welder eventually? Paladin, Glad to hear that you've had good experience with this pattern (and that I haven't wasted my time making half a vest already). I'm thinking of using the 3/4 hard stainless steel for the stress points and reinforce them with titanium to make sure that they will rarely need repair. Also thank you for the heads up on the wearing of the vest, I had not stopped to consider what wearing 50 pounds of steel might do to somebody. As for the scale maintenance, I intend to oil them and store them with silica gel, but i'll be sure to scour them regularly. Thank you all for the help!
  3. The_other_jeremy

    Scalemail Advice Needed

    Hello, I recently started seriously working on a scalemail vest made with 5/16 butted stainless steel rings and large unhardened steel scales using the 4 in 1 weave at ~400 scales per square foot as described by Danny Ace. This vest was made to be worn for LARPs, but not very stressful ones and I used the weave with an extra ring in hopes that it would hold itself together better than normal scalemail. I came across a vest I had repaired on from a few years back (butted rings) that had almost disintegrated because of its own weight and I was wondering what the chances of this happening with the tighter weave would be as I would rather not make a vest thats going to die on me. I intend to reinforce the armpits and stress points with titanium, but i'm not sure thats going to be enough with butted rings. I've debated buying a resistance welder and going through to weld up the rings after finishing the vest, but I can't seem to find any for sale and TRL store makes no mentions of them anymore. I was wondering if anyone had any general tips for improving the durability of a vest, or even a link to a (hopefully cheap enough) resistance welder.
  4. Company wise, there are places that will do heat treating for mostly large projects (pretty much every tool anyone uses has been heat treated), but you can often ask them to do a tiny batch (one item). I would also look into finding someone with a kiln, as those will reach the proper temperatures easily (and is actually the recommended method for heat treating). I always love to hear someones interested in learning the craft! If you ever decide one day that you want to pick up the hammer, I would do a quick local search for blacksmiths in your area as there are a lot of classes people are willing to offer to give you a taste of blacksmithing without committing time and money for a forge.
  5. My best guess was that it shouldn't matter with the thickness of the rings, and that the warp will be negligible. It is however a good point, thank you!
  6. Skip this if you only want to hear about the heat treat So, the ring lord says that their carbon steel rings are 1062 carbon steel (mostly iron with .62% +- 0.05% carbon). Most 10xx series steels below 1095 have a fairly simple heat treat, but first take a moment to experiment a bit. When you heat up steel you get colors depending on how hot the steel was due to oxidation types. these are a reasonable way to judge how hot your steel got. If only the area directly around the weld is blue/washed out light gray I would consider it fine as it should retain much of its integrity. The higher temperature the steel gets, the more flexible, and soft the steel gets. However with temperatures in welding you run into a problem called "grain growth" which is farther into the science of steel than i'm gonna get, but makes the steel brittle. For knives/swords many other people (and I) use a 400 degree (F) temper, but this is fairly brittle for armor. TLR website does not state what temperature they temper to and only give us a KSI rating. You may not get the majority of the steel hotter than TLR tempers, but thats a lot of "if". However, as a steel geek I digress, back to the heat treat. Actual heat treatment info For heat treating 1062 you are going to need two important things. A home heat treating setup, or the phone number of a company or person who does. I would recommend doing some research into local companies that might be able to heat treat for you, but if you are like me and unwilling to pay someone else to do it you can make a heat treat setup yourself. For heat treating 1062 you will need to get the whole piece up to around 1475 degrees (F) and hold it at that temperature for ~5 minutes at minimum. You can hold it at that temperature for up to ~15 minutes, but thats more up to what you feel like doing that day. Once it has gotten to that point you will remove it from the heat and quench in it in lukewarm water until it has stopped boiling the water. After this it will be glass hard and can shatter if you drop it on the ground. I would then put it in the oven at 600 degrees (F) for an hour, then let it cool. That should give you armor hardness, but flexible enough not to shatter if dropped Obligatory warnings! With anything involving lots of fire, this is dangerous. This is very dangerous. I have been heat treating things for multiple years, but still burn myself every once in a while. you also do not want to be known as that one dude who burned down their block trying to make a cool chainmaille project. Almost any heat treat will be risky. Even with a fairly simple steel, and a fairly thick piece (rings), and a disregard for how perfectly straight your piece has to be coming out of quench, there is still a chance it will go wrong. There is a chance some of the rings might crack, or shatter, or warp so badly that you have to remove them and put a new ring in. There is also the chance that nothing will happen. Any number of things can make it so that your piece will not harden at all. A way to check would be take a metal file and scrape it along the rings after quench. If the file skates as if it were on glass, then the steel is hard and super brittle until you temper it in the oven. There is a chance that you will decarburize the outer layer of the rings and then end up with a thousandth of an inch around every ring that is soft. This means you will have a scratch prone exterior that will eventually wear away leaving hard steel below it (you can remove this yourself though various methods like putting it in a barrel of sand a shaking it a ton) There is also a reasonable chance I might be wrong about parts of this. I have never heat treated chainmaille before. I heat treat the things that chainmaille is supposed to stop. I might be off about the temper temperature which is thankfully a fixable mistake, but do not take what I have said in totality I am just one of the simple voices of the internet (albeit one specialized in this). Do your own research too!
  7. The_other_jeremy

    ScaleMail Question

    Hello fellow maille people! Been a lurker here for a while and finally decided to make an account to ask a few questions about making a vest. First off my materials. I am using large carbon steel scales, and 5/16 stainless steel butted rings. I went with the butted rings as split rings were taking too long and causing too much frustration (chainmaille is supposed to be fun). I am using one of the wonderful scale tutorials that I found on this site, but still have a few questions. I am using the reinforced pattern that has an extra ring which makes it European 4 in 1 however using this extra ring is slowing down my progress a lot. I was wondering if it is feasible to add the extra rings later after I make the sheets of scale. I did a little experiment trying it and had very little luck with my needle nosed pliers (Ringlord brand), but since you all know much more than me I wanted to know what your thoughts were. Additionally I wanted to thank all of you for the detailed info I've found on all the other posts!
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