Jeff

I have both of them but the problem is I am already using both in inlay as gold and yellow.

Hey all, on my list of inlay projects in my queue is a inlay of the Hogwarts school crest. I am trying to figure out what to use for the main outline of the crest. I originally purchased machine cut anodized aluminum in "gold" which is fine, but considering that most of the other rings are saw cut and therefore shiny, I don't know how well it will go with the rest of it. I was contemplating getting brass rings, but I don't know if they will tarnish or if they will work out how I want. There isn't an anodized aluminum that is brass colored, so does anyone have any suggestions or input on the current selections? the rings are also 16g 1/4"

First I was mistaken in aluminum being cheaper as I didn't notice it is about 600 rings per bag as opposed to 300 for aluminum. that being said I agreed that steel was better for combat, but the OP mentioned he wanted to do an inlay in his first post so that is why I asked what he was making this for as aluminum would give more options for colors and be less work to bend.

Alternatively, depending on how much time you want to sync in, you could remove some of the old rings and replace it with the new rings then use the old rings with the new rings to continue so it blends better.

so I know I'm pretty late to the conversation but what are you making the shirt for? is it for combat (SCA or otherwise) or costuming/decoration (halloween, cosplay, etc)? if it is for combat then steel is definitely the way to go but if it is for decoration then aluminum would probably be the better option as it is cheaper, comes in more colors for your inlay, lighter, and doesn't need to be as strong since it doesn't need to take a hit. Aluminum is also easier to work with than steel. Also while Bright aluminum isn't good for white areas of an inlay, you can still use it as it is just like a light gray in color. I've used it in the past for that purpose.

Your tapestry was really 400,000 rings? you really are as insane as I thought (meant as a compliment), not mention that you used 7/64 rings).

I use paint for my inlays personally. my largest to date is 10,620 rings (which is about 90% complete). you can also edit the file from the igp if the rings aren't lining up the way you want. the reason I use paint rather than Gimp or photoshop is because it is less advanced so it won't auto ad gradints or feathering and the like also it is much easier to draw things one pixel at a time (or at least on the pixel level) so you don't have to worry much about scaling after the fact and thus distorting the picture).

I just used my first name.

I haven't worked with scales or painting scales so this is all speculation on my part but I figure you can try it on a few scales to test. for plastic I would try using spray paints made for plastic or even the kind made for models perhaps and then once it dries apply a clear coat to protect them. For the aluminum you can either try the same thing but use paint made for metals or you can buying non-anondized scales and look up how to anodize them yourself.

What is the ETA on SXAA1614black?

Yeah I think I want it at it's natural stretch point since I want it to not have sides supports so it can still bend and sway and such while also not becoming distorted (it has cursive lettering on it so distortion wouldn't be great). thanks for your input.

Hey guys, I am working on rather large inlay for my brother as a wedding gift, and had an idea on how to hang it without it losing it's shape. I wanted to run the idea by you guys to see if a) it is feasible, b) it is a good idea, and c) anyone had any better ideas. The idea is to long aluminum pipe that is slightly longer than the inlay. I would then drill holes into the bottom of it and loop the rings of the top row through the holes before closing them. I would then do the same thing for the bottom row with another aluminum pipe but the holes would be on the top. that way it can still be flexible but with the corners being at maximum stretch the inlay wouldn't distort. what do you all think?

They are not. The bright silver is much more like a silvery look than the bright aluminum's standard aluminum look. for a comparison my inlay below uses both the top right logo uses bright silver as well as the inner part of the pink, purple, blue, and green logos. whereas the outer background of the lower section is bright aluminum.

try washing the old rings with warm water and soap then patting them dry. the oil from your fingers can effect the appearance of titanium rings and make them appear duller; however washing them temporarily removes this effect.

I'd assume the 19 is the gauge.