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Posts posted by Bladeturner

  1. 7 hours ago, lorenzo said:

    8x is a good margin, industry standard for chain is only 3x so you should be good.

    I spent the day interviewing candidates for a lead Quality Assurance job for or group at the University.  I find myself wondering if the chainmail industry uses iso9000 standards, or something more stringent.

  2. I ended up doing a strength test mainly aimed at the stresses that will be present at the shoulders using large scales and aluminum saw-cut butted rings.  It held up easily with no noticeable opening on the rings even holding up more then 8x the expected weight of the vest, so I'm not too concerned.  I'll see how it does in the real world, but I should have plenty of margin.


  3. 23 hours ago, Rob MacLennan said:

    1/8" shirt. Now there's dedication. For pieces at that scale I haven't gone below 1/4".

    I wanted to make "the last chainmail shirt I'd ever need."  It was certainly the last chainmail shirt I ever made.  

  4. 31 minutes ago, lorenzo said:

    You have to make a custom order for the spring stainless ones, not sure how it works right now with the change in ownership. When I worked at TRL I would just coil and cut them myself.

    They will be more expensive though, that's the real trade off for lightweight armor. Making your own rings would be the least expensive option there.

    I still have my ring making kit, but after making 120,000 rings for my 1/8" shirt, but I thought those days were behind me, heh.  

  5. 21 hours ago, lorenzo said:

    The best way to minimize weight is to use stronger rings and a larger ring diameter combined with smaller wire gauge. This minimizes the amount of scales per area which makes up the bulk of the weight. 

    For example if you use 18g 5/16 spring stainless instead of 16g 5/16 aluminum the rings will have a similar weight and strength but because of the springback in the steel rings the finished piece will have about 25% less weight of scales.

    Another option is to use split rings, the #7F ones from worthco.com work well with large scales. I haven't used TRL's split rings in a long time but last I did they were pretty terrible.

    Are the stainless rings here spring stainless?  if not, can you recommend a source?  I've never worked with split rings, but the #7fs from worthco would be prohibitively expensive.


  6. 6 hours ago, Rob MacLennan said:

    I was roughly 200+ pounds when I originally made the shirt, but have since pared down to 150, which is part of the reason I'll be re-making it. It's made to fit over a cheap LARP gambeson. If I had any attachment space left, I'd post a pic.

    Yeah I'm out of MBs myself.  Anyone know how to get that reset?

  7. 15 minutes ago, Rob MacLennan said:

    I got away with doing that for a couple of parties, several hours long each, without repair in between. Then again I'm 5'9" (174cm.), so the weight may not be anywhere near what you're going to be dealing with.

    *NOTE* My plan is to eventually convert this piece to using steel rings.

    I'm also 5'9".  I'm big, mean big around the chest and belly.  It's good to know it (probably) won't just fall apart.

  8. So I'm making a purely cosmetic (i.e. not being used in any sort of larp event) shirt for myself.  I'm wearing it for an event where I might have it on for a number of hours in a row.  Otherwise it'll sit on display on a mannequin.  I'm using large scales (anodized and and painted aluminum) and would like to be able to get away with just aluminum rings to minimize weight.  I'm a big guy, so there's already going to be a lot of mass in the scales themselves.  I'd also like to use saw cut rings, since they are so much easier to work with.  Do you think I can get away with the standard weave (i.e. not having to use 3 rings per scale) and not have the thing fall apart?  Has anyone here done it thins way?  I've always worked with stainless rings, but they will add so much weight to this piece.  Thanks.  

  9. 46 minutes ago, Jeff said:

    You could get like a JCPenny's, Sear's, Macy's (pretty much any standard clothing store you'd find at a mall) and get a box from there that would have clothing in it, then fold the shirt like a normal piece of clothing and wrap it up that way. you can even use like a soft cloth between the folds to keep it from jingling to much as well as to keep it from rubbing together. It should be pretty entertaining as he expects one thing only to find something way cooler instead.

    I considered a shirt box, but the scale shirt weighs 10+ lbs, which would destroy that box.  If I had any skill with wood, I'd make a wooden version of a shirt box.

  10. Basically,I have a scale shirt that I made as an Christmas gift (the blue one with the white stripe in the gallery), and I need a way of giving it to my brother in law.  I was thinking of building a PVC stand and draping fabric over the whole thing so he can "open" it on the day.  I can't really think of any other way to give this thing as a gift.


  11. 14 hours ago, lorenzo said:

    That definitely looks cleaner. I'm not a big fan of having a seam running the full breadth of the shoulder though, I much prefer to have only one or two reinforced connection points. Anyways I'm glad you found a style that works for you.

    Good luck with your mission, I did some work for NASA on the Mars InSight mission and I've never had to deal with such brutal deadlines before or since. Don't get me wrong, I'm glad for the experience but I might have to charge more if there's a next time.

    I'l see how it looks once I've attached the body panels.

    This is my 12th NASA mission, and yeah the scheduling is vicious, and gets worse with each project.  We're going into a very high radiation environment (Inside Jupiter's magnetic field, over 300 krad) and the hoops we have to jump through to prove our parts will survive the mission are really arduous. 

  12. IMG_20191112_074159976.thumb.jpg.11016d51bbbfba5ca4f979fe15217438.jpgOkay, so I redid the shoulders with a simple seam at the top with a row of scales to cover the links (from the How-to pdf) (first image, blue scales with white and gold accents).  What is interesting, is that I pulled my first piece off of one of my wife's dress forms and put it on a mannequin.  I'd done lorenzo's hybrid sleeve design, and it never looked right on the dress form, but once it was on the mannequin, it looks really good.  The mannequin's shoulders and arms are more buff (male type mannequin vs female type dressform).   Anyway, thanks for the clarification, it really helped!

  13. 14 minutes ago, lorenzo said:

    That's not really their purpose, a scale shirt should essentially be a sleeveless vest with sleeves added on. I haven't made a scale shirt with 45 degree seams for many years but here's how the last one looked.


    I do believe this is the very image I was using for a reference.  I think trying the 45 degree solution is just in my blood (lol, I'll learn eventually).  I've given thought to the engineering problem of having all the front and back weight on those small pieces and I think I'll just go to the vest design (as shown in the scale kit picture).  I'll update when I get time later this week to try it. I'm working on a KDP (key decision point) review for my mission at work and getting time to relax and do some scales had to wait.  NASA runs a really tough review program and I need to get ahead of it.

  14. 5 hours ago, lorenzo said:

    The problem you're having is that the front and back panels aren't connected together directly. Since they connect through the shoulder panels the weight of them pulls everything out of shape. Connect the top scales of the chest and back end to end and then build the shoulders off to the side of that.

    I guess I'm a little unclear on how to attach the front and back pieces.  they are going in opposite directions.  I thought the whole purpose of the shoulder piece is top make that connection.  

  15. 9 hours ago, Rob MacLennan said:

    Shave a couple of diagonal rows off the chest and back. Expand the shoulder piece to match. Then see what the angles are like.

    I think if I do this I'll also need to reduce the bottom rows of the shoulder pieces, right now they are just too long.  (i.e. the long end of the trapezoid needs to be considerably shorter


  16. I've put it on my wife's dressform to take these pics, but it does the same thing on a human model with much wider shoulders (in fact it's even worse.  If I have to, I'll just remove the trapezoidal pieces, buildup the front and back and just have things meet at a 90 degree seam, but I was hoping for something more elegant.

  17. I'm working on the yoke of a simple scale vest using the 45 degree joins described here on this forum and in the pdf file often linked on this subject.  I'm having trouble with the trapezoidal piece bunching way up and sticking up nearly straight.  I've got the body panels ready to attach, but I want these to lay right before I do that.  Should I redo the trapezoids with contractions, or is there something else I should be doing?  




  18. Mostly finished.  The sleeves have some issues, and I may end up redoing them in a more traditional style. 

    I'm particularly happy with the stabilization on the bottom row.  I've got to do the same around the neckhole.

    This is my test piece for a gift I'm making for a family member.  That one will be blue and white, with I hope an inlay that works well, but I'll have to play with templates until I get something I like.