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About AndyH

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  • Birthday 12/31/1972

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    re-enactment, jewelery
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  1. AndyH

    Gambeson question

  2. AndyH

    Mail Shirt for Protection

    28" round Shield + spear/sword + mailshirt + helmet + aventail/coif. You will then look like a 8th-10 century soldier. Don't forget the helmet and neck protection as they are prime chopping targets. If you get a mail shirt that is relatively lose or opens at the front (with a big overlap, velcroed in place if you are after speed) then they can be put on fast.
  3. If you are after a silver coloured ring with black inlay that won't wear off then I'd recommend a silver ring with engraving filled with silver sulphide/copper sulphide niello. It would take a good jeweler to do the inlay well but it will be much thicker than any black annodising. If you do this then try and make sure the niello hasn't got any lead in if it is to be against the neighbouring fingers- there are different recipies.
  4. AndyH

    making a pair of ss chainmail gloves

    Much easier than making gloves is making mittens. You just need a rectangle of mail with one end curved to match your your fingers then attach a piece of mail for the thumb at an angle of 60 degrees. Then sew the whole thing to a thin leather palm. No individual fingers to worry about! Period knights used mittens until plate gauntlets appeared.
  5. AndyH

    For the people who know a lot about bullets

    Brian. Please buy yourself a good book about cartridge reloading (someone should be able to suggest a good one). This will explain the tiny tollerences of chambers, barrels, cartridges and bullets. Then get yourself some reloading gear (and make sure it is exactly the right reloading dies and components for the gun you are firing- get some advice) and learn to reload. Then shoot for a fraction of the cost of factory ammunition. Problem solved (but if finance is an issue, smaller and more common cartridges are cheaper to reload). Please don't try and go outside the published values in reloading guides or you'll risk breaking your rifle and yourself. Honest, don't do it!
  6. AndyH

    What do you think?

    Copper and silver has been used for thousands of years- such as herringbone inlay in Viking sword hilts. The main problem you will get with mixing base and precious metals is that the base metals will corrode faster as they form galvanitic couples. This especially applies if you have a damp, salty environment (ie sweat) or you mix in very reactive metals (aluminium, titanium, galvanised). Also, some people are sensitive to copper and mixing it with something noble will make more verdigris for them to react to.
  7. AndyH

    sword question

    Like they said. You could get a sword cast but probably only out of cast iron (which would be very soft or brittle depending upon the metal) or mild steel (soft). None of them will heat treat properly. You'd also spend an age grinding off the casting marks and there would be a strong chance that faults in the casting would make it very weak. Far better to buy a nice piece of spring steel (or a car leaf sping) then grind it down to size and get it heat treated (specialist job on a sword sized thing). A good alloy for re-enactment swords is EN45 but that is an old name and it has a more up to date one now. These alloys are produced to much higher standards than a small casting shop could manage. Most of them come in bar form- which is handy if you chose a shape close to your sword cross section. It is also easier to use an angle grinder and file than heat a couple of pounds of steel up to over 1500 degrees C. Bronze swords are an exception. Bronze is easier to cast (lower temperature, less reactive) but doing it yourself would still be a lot of effort and potentially dangerous. There are a few people who cast small bronze swords, mainly for pagan types and collectors. They are not used to fight with but could be up to the job.
  8. AndyH

    What tools do you use when weaving?

    For butted mail I use 2 8" pliers and a good light source. Some people use a L shaped rod as a lever instead. For rivetted I use 1 pair 8" pliers for changing the shape of rings with a slightly tapered rod that fits in the rivet hole. I also use the rod for slightly opening up and lining up the rivet holes. I tend to close the rings with a set of 4" pliers as they are handier to use then big ones. I set the rivets using a modified pair of cable cutters. Also useful for making rivetted rings rounder is a tapered mandrel (like a jewellery triblet).
  9. AndyH

    Metal question.

    He could exploit the conductivity of the ring by touching it to an earth before he handles the circuitry. Stainless steel is about the least conductive metal that jewellery comes in but it will still short out any electronics. Enamelling is the way to go if he is worried about it. Make sure it is proper enamelling though or it will just scratch up to the bare metal over time.
  10. AndyH

    Where to get lamellae?

    Have you thought about getting a specialist washer manufacturer to make them? They will have the machines needed to punch the shape out of metal in a single go, complete with holes. Either that or laser-cutting or flame cutting from a single sheet of steel. The pattern would be repetitive so easy to set up using a computer. Not sure how much it would cost to do it this way but it has to be cheaper than individually cutting them out and drilling. If you investigate further and get quotes I'd be interested in knowing how much it costs.
  11. AndyH

    Silver Solder :D

  12. AndyH

    Blackened punched stainless.

    Bernice Is your punched ring production up and running again? If so I'm going to put in an order. Andy