Konstantin the Red

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


About Konstantin the Red

  • Rank
    Journeyman Member
  • Birthday 05/11/56

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    Port Hueneme, CA, USA
  • Interests
    SCA, armouring, firearms, cutlery, f&sf.
  • Occupation
    Cutco Salesman
  1. Tangentially, are you the same Oldhead that is looking into bending some sheet metal for plate armor over on The Armour Archive? Inquiring about watershed in link overlaps?
  2. Yes, galvy wire in the UK has nowhere near, apparently, the emphasis and availability in bulk that it does in the US retail wire market. I guess that counts as one of the "problems," which term I think overstates the case. It is after all wire. With a weatherproofing coating of zinc, electrodeposited (a/k/a galvanised). The "problems" alluded to are in the main aesthetic -- it's not a jewelry wire. It is popular for large -- and incidentally heavy -- projects such as armor for sword-sports. After decades of such play, butted mail is no longer state of the modern-make armour mail art -- now it is ungalvanised steel wire in *riveted* links for a dozen times the strength at half the weight and wire thickness. Needs not to have the zinc coating because the wire gets annealed and that heat is enough to drive off zinc in vapor form, which is noxious to breathe and can give you a headache and a twitch. Neither is any fun. So, bare steel wire, no zinc, and a way to heat the wire to red. In the UK, bulk galvanised wire seems best available through rural fence suppliers, and it still takes tracking down. I've never tried looking for bulk aluminum wire in the UK. Same sources?
  3. Yes, 3/8" (call it 9mm) would mean a tighter weave. 7/16" is a hair over 11mm.
  4. Looks also like this fine mail would block keyless entry into your latemodel car, which gadgets work in the microwave spectrum (100cm to 1mm, spanning VHF through UHF). Definitely have your fob outside such mesh. Otherwise, a weak UHF signal is trapped in there with you and won't talk to your new car.
  5. Color me surprised. Now, come again? -- I'm not getting why you're trying to exclude upper-EHF millimeter-wave frequencies from... your personal space. These have been radiated by antennas since WW2... I don't suppose you've been around that long. Are you being swept by (short-range) air-search radar all day? Living on an antenna mount? Has there been a strong enough flux to melt your candy bar in your pocket? The inverse-square law says you need but move farther away from any radiating source to cut exposure wayyyy down -- that there's no way a radiating antenna can buck the inverse-square law and come out on top. TSA would talk about you nasty if you wore such micromaille longjohns through their metal detectors, which work in the millimeter-frequency frequency band -- and the signal attenuates greatly in air and even more at some frequencies in water vapor. And rain, and drizzle. I'd say commercial passenger flight would be a definite no-go without a change of clothes. Dragging a grounding strap behind you from one foot (to get past your shoes) as you go would cause comment too, of the "sir, you have a wire sticking out of you" genre.
  6. I know at least one such multistory building exists; it's on a government installation between DC and Baltimore. Watched 'em build it. The whole thing's a copper-mesh Faraday cage. Thus, for RF flux. Your choice of materials and sizes suggests you're trying to ground out RF, nothing ionizing. To the readership at large, personally I will be surprised if Asians posts again. Most guys who pop up with this on their mind aren't talkative.
  7. Not giving yourself heat exhaustion falls into the "Functional" column. You wouldn't be sorry you did it that way. You've heard this before: it takes no more effort to do it right than to do it wrong. There's a reason that comes up; this is one of those cases. Particularly as you're not looking for a deep lasagna of many layers, but just four or so to give easy comfort.
  8. And yet, buckskin is good for garments, as it doesn't stiffen up after wetting it. Great for sporrans and other pouches, and prized for sword belts, by reason of its greater flexibility
  9. You want a reasonable gambeson, you don't footer around with moving blankets. 99% of moving blankets are stuffed with reclaimed polyester. Hot & hotter. There may be a scant few all-cotton moving blankets available, but cotton is less than ideal once dampened: the threads swell and the stuff seals up on you, and you get gently steamed while you fight. Moving blankets are not intended to cope with a body that radiates its own heat. Your reasonable gamby is of layers of discount linen, maybe with an outer shell of trop-weight wool. Scratchbuild this beast as a quilted lasagna of fabric layers. Interlap the edges that join, so your seams are not lumps, but very smooth. Cut and style? An arming-coat version of the "Pourpoint of Charles de Blois" which itself was actually a late-14th-c. cotehardie with its sleeves made à grands assiètes, which afford a most remarkable degree of arm freedom. Experience with patterns for this has taught us armour schleppers to modify the button details: not running the sleeve button-rows up over the elbows, but stop them short of the elbow, for comfort and not catching on armor lames. And plate armor guys, close up the front by lacing with long shoelace: stronger than buttons and suited to the heavy loads late-fourteenth plate armor put upon the foundational garment. You can find pattern graphics of it on the internet. A maille guy can go simpler than this, so long as his gamby rides snug about waist and hip and a bit easier fitting about your upper chest, shoulders and upper arms, such that you can easily slide your bladed hand and fingers into it when you're wearing it -- the waist area being tighter. Arm mobility with long and close-fitted sleeves is good for a gamby under mail; a shirt tries to pull the sleeves of the gamby beneath it into your armpits unless you can keep that from happening. And there are details yet to come...
  10. https://i.pinimg.com/736x/b7/ee/0f/b7ee0f05797e5780e0474212937764ce--th-century-sca-armor.jpg -- shows how the arm can bend https://i.pinimg.com/736x/4c/91/70/4c917048deb4cd533faf366685b43881--dark-castle-knight-armor.jpg -- shows the two-intersecting-cones basic shape to advantage, also the laces that tie the thing in place on the sleeve. Seems to go 3/4 around; inside of elbow is open. German Gothic armor, mid- to latter 15th century. A sure guide to its era is that he's wearing a sallet, the heyday of which was that century; it went out of use in the 16th, at least by the fashionable and well equipped. Which meant it hung on a good while among the infantry, while the mounted knights went on to closehelmets.
  11. Need also to give some thought to preventing the top edge of the spaudler from jamming on the edge of the leather vest at the shoulder when he raises his arm. Fighting with broadswords (Cold Steel makes some good ones for a couple-three hundred bucks in that size and shape (but not the goofy crossguard)) calls for the greatest possible easy arm mobility, including arms vertical. See some European longsword fencing manuals now available. They even have illos. While arms seldom stick straight up, they do fly around all over the place, knuckles and elbows and sharp bit at one end and a blunt heavy one on the other, using the length of the blade to arm-bar and lock somebody up so you can waste him quick. Or beat his teeth in with the pommel or the ends of the crossguard, thereby illustrating the verb 'pummel.' The entire length of a sword can really hurt a guy. It may be that oblong thing up at each vest shoulder seam is something that flexes up, hingeing near the neck/collar line, and otherwise lying somewhat stiffly on the shoulder. That kind of thing too is a frequent error from graphics kids drawing pix of armor. Kind of like those dumb designs passing for armor in Warcraft. One shudders. In part, from laughing. I like even fantasy armor to actually work, and move with you rather than tie you up, so you aren't fighting both your fiendish enemy and your half-ass gear.
  12. Make the mail parts primarily from E4-1, I always say -- best resiliency from the mail pretending it is elastic from the geometry of how the links join each other, hence best fitting to your contours. E6-1 also ends up twice as heavy area for area; mighty few people have ever built a 6-1 shirt and then liked wearing the beast. Inexperienced shirt makers tell me, "Oh, I don't mind the weight," until they try wearing the thing. 6-1 only for small, special, exposed places -- say about your throat in a collar and upon the points of your shoulders. Which in this harness are covered perfectly well by his spaudlers. The inertial effects of doubled mass will do cruel things to your poise at least. From an armor point of view, I also see little reason to build a shirt of mail with a closure like that up the front, though it seems intended to make the shirt one with the ankle-length quilted jacket beneath it. For a mailshirt, that is hardly necessary -- not even in Japan, where they on occasion rigged up just such gear, concealing it within the lining of an outer jacket to surprise ambushers. Just because a 3-D artist who never bore armour in his life thinks this looks cool isn't a reason to actually follow his example. For all the plate bits about his arms, lace these into the long quilted jacket at the tops of the armor plates, at least. In suspending dense plate armor, made of steel after all, lacing up top (bootlace is ideal) holds the armor up, while leather straps and buckles around the arm hold it in. You don't want it flapping; might get out of position in a fight, quite apart from being annoying. It's a pity his armharness would let his elbows be smashed or cut through by opponents carrying swords like his. He's buying trouble if there's nothing there! (His armharness could be upgraded to like 15th-century German-type arm armor with one more piece -- an all-around (or 3/4 round) one-piece elbow like two cones intersecting at an angle, the elbow tied onto his sleeve there with points both above and below the elbow joint -- doesn't have to mesh/articulate with the vambrace, but just have room to ride over it. Big tolerances IOW. Then he can do blocks and guards with much more confidence. Skillful warriors often get to be old men in a profession where many die as young men by such loadings of the dice, so don't be too proud. Or too slavishly imitative.) Armor-wise, you can quite do without the rings fastened to his heavy leather vest thing, which in itself has some protective value, particularly against arrows, and would have more if only it covered his belly as well as it does his back. Rings like those basically do nothing -- you can see anyone hitting near them would try a thrust, especially if all he has is a little dagger -- right through that ring and through Our Hero. Such a vest is a good way to tote those flat pouches of whatevers -- they look like pistol magazine pouches -- too, without use of bandolier or belt; the vest would get the job done. I took his shoulder furry-bit for something styled like a heap of oak leaves at first. The last bit of his first bear??
  13. Vinegar, the report is "pretty effective, but rather slow, and icky smelling." But you can dump the ickified vinegar down a drain. Swimming pool acid, and also masonry cleaner -- both are moderately dilute hydrochloric acid, or HCl, cut with some water, and you can cut either one further. I'd use distilled water, for such things as clothes irons, for the purpose, and for exact control of the result's properties. H2SO4, sulfuric acid, is riskier to handle and is overkill. You really want at least high school chemistry to handle it knowledgeably, and knowledgeableness is king with acid. First, the zinc will react strongly, bubbling a lot in the acid bath. When the bubbling markedly reduces, the acid has dissolved the zinc and is now trying the steel beneath, which is not as reactive but still reactive enough. Pull the mail out immediately, rinse off with cold water, and just as immediately drop it in a neutralizing bath of cold water with a LOT of baking soda in it (a saturated solution with a little baking soda still lying in the bottom of the tub) to stop any further acid corrosion. A moment's delay will lead to immediate rust. Not much to choose between spot or MIG machines for such small work. Overlapped-end, flattened, and resist/spot welded would, well, be a spotweld -- straight through the overlaps the way a triangular (and eensy) rivet would pass. Your main welding technical problem is controlling -- doling out -- sufficient energy to do the weld, while not so much as to melt a chunk right out of that ring. Test links to get your settings on the Variac controller or other included controller in the TRL special welding tool to deliver the correct amount of zap are much advised. A fistful of drifts filed down from nice hard masonry nails, a backup block of something dense, a hollowpoint nail set and a light hammer are considerably less bucks. Get your rivets right, and welding is only marginally the stronger. Welding the mail is not impossible, nor even ill advised in the case of stainless wire -- but you are contemplating some fairish capital outlay here; do you have that to spend on a hobby? We do from time to time get somebody who is searching very intently for measures to take to strengthen his mail -- and he never says why he wants his mail so strong until the oldsters here get around to asking him just why he does. What is your intent and desired outcome with a shirt of that kind of performance? We may be able to tell you three different good ways to do it.
  14. And the thread the Wayback link was in: http://www.mailleartisans.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=19447 IMHO, we should gank a copy each of Butted Mail for both TRL and M.A.I.L.
  15. Said apparatus: http://www.mailleartisans.org/gallery/gallerydisplay.php?key=900 Your boy shows the building of a shirt by the "barrel and straps" method. It's okay, allowing a few mods in, but not state of the art as the Trevor Barker tute was. Were I to build kneelength hauberk skirts -- length and comprehensiveness make a hauberk -- I would include gores made as triangular expansion arrays to close the skirt-split front and rear. Many present-day 'berks err on this detail, producing not the proper, more protective, slit but an inverted-V gapping front and back in the skirts. Not good armour making: fill those in. The "triangular expansion array" is also found in Trevor Barker, and requires no too-clever-by-half fancy 45-degee join to zip it into the mailshirt -- just standard E4-1 weaving. All the clever doings go on in its interior. With these done, incorporating them into the shirt anywhere needed is just the work of a few moments, comparatively. Web Archive Wayback Machine link to Butted Mail: A Mailmakers' Guide: https://web.archive.org/web/20160508055350/http://homepage.ntlworld.com/trevor.barker/farisles/guilds/armour/mail.htm