Konstantin the Red

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About Konstantin the Red

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    Journeyman Member
  • Birthday 05/11/56

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  • Location
    Port Hueneme, CA, USA
  • Interests
    SCA, armouring, firearms, cutlery, f&sf.
  • Occupation
    Cutco Salesman
  1. And there's the fellow who keeps his wire (material & diameter are his main sorting things) strictly on the reel or spool until he needs rings, and then spins these up with a power drill I guess. I'd use a hands-free wire feed for this -- see the Gallery section of the M.A.I.L. site for illustration of one easy-build no-hands feeder.
  2. It's true the easiest Bladeturner flaw to fix is to make the back trapezoid wider than the chest trapezoid, by about a handspan.
  3. I concur with Zlosk. Re-do the entire shoulder section, if necessary, as in the Trevor Barker. The Colluphid/Area51/45 degree yoke top shoulder has a number of minuses, though it attracts a lot of first-timers despite them. The Trevor Barker reproduces, you see, a shirt (hauberk, habergeon, or a 15th century infantry/light cav shirt like this one is) like they made and tailored when mail was worn for keeps. Life and death. This redoing remedy is just as slow as you expect, but it does make the shirt wearable and very liveable.
  4. Or use a border of E8-1, in finer wire; the AR has to be larger to make it work (in butted, roundwire links). E8-1 will not stretch or contract as much as the E4-1 weave of the main body. E8-1 gives an effect like a sumptuous embroidered edge to the mail. LARPy play doesn't hammer on your mail the way SCA heavy-fighters' hardstick rattan does. Rattan batons put much more impact on mail.
  5. Robin... I'm going to speak harshly, with some reluctance: This versifying will embarrass you within eighteen months, and you'll take it down. The graphic, er, composition is nice. Handsome uncial letter font, but that doesn't rescue the verse from being embryonic, not least in its nearly unrelieved iambic meter -- for all that English easily falls into iambs. That's why in poetic Hallmark cards, the writing's always so-so. Some ill-paid poor devil is hacking it out, and iambic meter is the default. Nor does it help to do violence to the sense of a word in reaching for a rhyme or half rhyme -- not that half rhymes are bad, if you are using them to effect, and the verse is not congenial to doing the effect another way. "Heroes profound" is not how I would either describe the heroes or make that line. Most of these are simply regular fellows, ordinary, half of them of quite humble origin, who find themselves in a time of trial and of great deeds -- Bilbo: "Adventures! Nasty wet uncomfortable things! Make you late for dinner!" and Gandalf: "So do all who reach such times." What this poetastery has to do with artistry in mail is another question that inescapably plucks at the mailling-site reader; I'm afraid you picked a bad site for this. When it comes to making verse, the late Professor Tolkien was frightfully good at it -- and even then, nowadays poetry mainly flies within other forms of storytelling, like three-volume prose novels -- as a sort of character and local-color development. So even he, knowledgeable as he was in old and Nordic verse forms and poems, could really only generate poems as fractions of larger works, and that is precisely the thing he did. I enjoyed his Beowulf-style heroic-meter stuff best, as most accessible -- the stuff the Vikings-on-horses Rohirrim made. Four beats to the line, caesura in mid-line, alliterative in preference to rhymed. (Not, if I rightly understand, that including rhymes is actually forbidden!) You might care to look to turn your talents -- and make them grow greater -- to composition of songs. Well crafted songs and capable guitar music in accompaniment are well received in sci-fi convention bardic circles, you know. A guitar is easier to carry around than a pipe organ, and honestly is a more flexible instrument than the bagpipe. (And I am very fond of the pipes.)
  6. Here is a Euro 6-1 thread over on Armour Archive, primarily in 6-1's use in mail collars, or pisanes and standards: http://forums.armourarchive.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=176285&p=2827564#p2827564 And with pictures.
  7. I reckon pictures are needed. E6-1, for reasons of geometry (link lie as well as added material) is practically twice as heavy as E4-1. This can really drag a fella down after a mere two hours in the shirt.
  8. Stainless will, diameter for diameter, be stiff stuff. Second Knuut on soldering silver pieces, for silver wire is soft like lead. It needs all the help you can give it. https://www.gemsociety.org/article/solder/
  9. Not only no maximum, but examples of giant E4-1 are still extant, and have appeared in history. One of the historical examples was torpedo nettings carried about on battleships and cruisers around the turn of the twentieth century for a time. The more modern example of the type is a kind of anti-rockfall mesh sometimes used to retain loose rocks upon steep roadcuts overlooking roads. They don't go falling off and hitting cars -- talk about your roadside surprise! And so, how big? Around 15 centimeters ID. The links are welded closed.
  10. Scales fasten on one end, unless modified with more little holes. Flexible fastening there at one end (nylon sewing awl cord or art-sinew) wouldn't suit, say, design of belts, such as latigo is so often used for. Are you considering chrometanned as your tough sturdy leather also? If you're bringing up latigo it doesn't sound like tooling the leather is under consideration.
  11. Hiya, knuut! Long time no see! SuperTrooper, when you've zipped angled seams/edges together, what you have is a long series of conventional expansions, in a slanting line. And basically they are doing, in making that seam, that join, what expansions do anyway. They make the mail piece to get wider, to flare out.
  12. Paladin may have meant fourteen gauge rather than 16 with the 5/16"ID. For a LARP with soft weapons, I'd counsel against wire that thick, and push 16 gauge instead, as Paladin said. Reasonable weight, sufficient durability even against bare hardstick SCA rattan -- and you can make a fine fabric using 1/4" ID, for a link aspect ratio of 4 and a trifle. Which gives flexible mail. AR4 is a very good ratio to try in butted mail you intend to get hit in. (Real good in riveted mail too.) What Paladin said about shirt weight is spot on. Avoid E6-1 except for small, exposed, special areas, and don't get, um, optimistic about your all-day weight carrying capacity. (Seriously, nobody's ever managed it AFAWK.) Do you ever recollect medieval art depicting a man in a knee length hauberk *and* a combat pack on his back? That's roughly what you're proposing. There's a reason they didn't do that, and it wasn't because wealthy warriors had people for carrying stuff. That warning given, there's still place for putting E6-1 about the neckhole for fun, or made as a somewhat standing collar to put on your shirt as an advanced mailshirt feature, like about, say, 1425 historical date, when mail was a footsoldier's kind of armor -- as was a certain amount of plate, only roughly half of what a mounted armored man at arms would use, having a horse to transport him on the field. A diamond of E6-1 over the point of each shoulder (these being rather exposed) is another possibility. A patch of 6-1 in a diamond or a pointy shape zips easily into a surrounding fabric of 4-1 because everything meets on the sides that are easy to weave into and there's no run of funny links at the top and the bottom edges of the patch of 6-1 -- no edges period. This sort of thing is doable without exhausting you at the end of a day of combat; instead you'll just be suitably tired! These, and a collar of 6-1 armoring your neck and throat are about the extent of the really livable possibilities. A hauberk, varied in sleeve length with century, and descending to the knees in a split skirt with gussets inserted to keep the riders' slit as a slit, is specific to a certain kind of warrior and the latter 11th through earlier 14th centuries. The shorter, more generically "shirt-ish" looking haburgeon, can look plausible from the 14th century forward for a couple more, and perhaps Late Viking period too -- nobody knows because nobody left records nor a whole shirt from that time. Nearly all the historic mail we have qua mail is no older than the 14th century, suggesting that it has a normal shelf life between corrosion and cleaning/oiling/keeping dry of circa 600 years. Galvy smell is not to my nose bad -- about like sniffing a chainlink fence on a wet day close up -- but some people's sweat really reacts with the stuff. So wear something under mail, like maybe two sweatshirts. Launder 'em. If your heart's desire is for mail that strong and stronger, amass the few more tools (and you'll have to make one of them, more or less) you'll need for making riveted mail, and expect to settle in for four times the man hours at weaving the stuff, what with the riveting. A legit, though spendier, method of making riveted mail is to have half your links as punched-out spacer rings, thinner than any washer. Modern washers are too hefty for this kind of use. "Butted Mail, A Mailmakers' Guide" is no longer to be found on its original site, but it is archived somewhere on M.A.I.L. Download the article for safekeeping. It's got nearly everything you need to know for making good mailshirts.
  13. I should also like to pose a philosophical sort of question. Curved seams are very well, when you are cutting cloth. Makes practical garments, out of cloth or from leather. Mailling more fundamentally resembles knitting something -- a shirt, a doily, an ornament, a whatsit. Why seam when you can knit and make it seamless? I say, as sweaters, so mailshirts.
  14. Likely it would need those other interested parties, wolfe. Galil86 originated this thread back in 2008. If anyone's done anything exactly like it, or made progress on this idea, I've not heard of it. For me, it also has to overcome the hurdle I mentioned in a post up-thread.
  15. Watching this with interest. Doubling up scaly or mail armor does send the weight of the whole article through the roof. For a doorstop or a boat anchor, yes, that is useful. Giant weights of body-armor, if armor you intend, no, not very. Doesn't do much to change the actual weapon resistance, either. Probably why theta-mail didn't exactly take off in history back when they wanted mail to keep their insides on the inside.