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Ninjafudo

Scale mail question

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I recently bought 1000 large stainless steel scales and I want to use butted links. The 'how to' section on this site says to use 16 gauge 5/16" ID rings, but I want to use 14 gauge rings. Can anyone tell me if this will work just as well if I sub the 16 gauge for 14 gauge 5/16" ID rings? Has anyone tried this before?

I've tried using the rings I had lying around my room, just to play with scales for the first time(14 gauge 3/8" ID), but the rings were showing through on the front and they got messed up and the pattern didn't stay organized, so I know I need to use something closer to the suggested, but I still want to be able to use my 14 gauge wire.

if anyone could drop a helpful hint and save me the work of figuring it out, I would appreciate it, otherwise I suppose I'll figure out in a few days.

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I haven't used 14ga to do my scales but I don't see why it couldn't work ... you my try splitting the difference in ring size ...maybe 11/32 but like the other guy says to use the 14ga 5/16 will most likely get tight a little ways into the weave... good luck

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You've got two problems. First is a different wire size. 14g vs 16g. That in itself isn't too big of a deal. If I remember right, the hole size in a large stainless ring is about 5/16" diameter. Four 14g rings should fit through there with room to spare. The finished product will not expand and flex as well as it would with the 16g rings, but still, it should be just fine.

Your second issue is the ring size itself. TRL reccomends 5/16, you're using 3/8. There's a world of difference there which is why your rings are showing through.

Personally, if I'm doing butted with scale, I prefer 16g 1/4. Just smooth as can be.

If you're going to go with the 14g wire, that's fine, just make sure it's 5/16 or so rings.

Gaanon

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Well i shaved down a wooden dowel and eventually i got something close to 5/16" internal diameter... and i had to grind down the end of my aviation snips too so the end would fit into the coil... but I've been playing around with that and it has been working out as far as i can tell.

how does this look?

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=33479529&l=38aff59ead&id=219705988

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=33479528&l=9bcf67a80e&id=219705988

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=33479813&l=081b346348&id=219705988

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=33479817&l=a2d1f2e56f&id=219705988

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=33479818&l=e9bcee3cce&id=219705988

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Looks like that is working out allright. Good cuts and closures, too. I'd suggest getting a steel rod instead of a wooden dowel for your mandrel though - over time the wood will compress, and your rings end up a different size.

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Yeah normally I use a steel rod I found after breaking an old printer which was conveniently 3/8" in diameter, but for this stuff I didn't have anything, except the wooden dowel I used to use for making chainmail when I first started... I shaved it down with a knife ^_^ and its not even even, but it works for now.

I know about the compression your talking about on the wooden dowel. Lol. it makes the wood look like a screw after awhile.

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I found a 5/16 steel rod to use as a mandrel at my local hardware store. Not to mention TRL sells them in all kinds of sizes.

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